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About albatcha

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  1. Do you know if any of them sell stators? I looked but I couldn't find it, they don't have the most easily navigable websites.
  2. I had a real hard time finding a source for all the parts needed to fully rebuild the alternator. What I ended up doing is I found a good deal on a rebuilt one by Remy with no core charge for like $50 on ebay. I just swapped all the new internals from the rebuilt one into the old housing. My alternator had seemed to be fine and then suddenly stopped. When I opened it up it was real bad, pretty much every single piece of it had at least one thing wrong with it. Worn brushes, broken and frayed wires, etc. if you do it like me and just swap everything it's really easy it doesn't even take an hour. If you replaced individual pieces and you know how to solder it should still be pretty easy. everything is just held together by a few nuts and bolts.
  3. I did it similar to NYNick, I marked where I thought the holes were with pencil then I used a sewing type of tape measure to compare the driver side to the passenger side if it was symmetrical, and also if the distance between the holes matched the clips and visor base, if the distance from the edge of the window seal was the same on both sides etc. And then once you punch through the headliner to put in the screw there is a little bit of wiggle room with the material if it's off center slightly. If you're scared to puncture the headliner use a thin needle first. And once you find one it's easier to tell if the other one is in the right spot.
  4. I found the story I was thinking of, 10 year old tires stored indoors in bags, guy put them on the car and crashed, broke his neck, girlfriend died, killed the driver of another car he crashed into. I also found another study that tested multiple tire brands and models at different ages and they found that some were failing when subjected to half the amount of force that the new version of the exact same tire failed at. One person can tell you they never had problems with old tires, but compared to the data from the NHTSA and NTSB and many others that looks at information from years of laboratory experiments and hundreds of real world tires, that's like a congressman showing you a snowball and saying climate change isn't real.
  5. I thought about it some more, now I'm thinking the best storage might be mounted, inflated fully once to seat it on the rim, then inflated to just above atmospheric pressure, that way it's sealed but the air inside the tire is not putting much force outwards on the rubber changing it's porousness. And in response to mike, it's true that new tires can also fail, probably due to manufacturing issues, and it's true that old tires can be fine. But it seems as though the relation with age and tire failure is experimentally proven, all old tires might not fail but your old tires could be the ones that do, it's up to you to decide whether or not that's a big enough deal to you to change them. Same as all risk percentages in life. For me, on my 944 with ten year old tires that had no problems, after reading the data I have decided not to put off getting new tires any longer.
  6. It seems like if they are mounted on tires and properly inflated that is probably the best case scenario for tire life, being mounted and inflated minimizes the oxidation of the inside of the tire, compared to an unmounted tire exposed to the atmosphere inside and out. Plus being stored in a cooler place and not being flexed with the weight of the car and heated with the temperature from friction.
  7. I found this article about tire degradation, https://www.liveabout.com/the-science-of-tire-aging-3234377 It explains that the reason tires go bad is the oxidation, reaction with oxygen, of the rubber and all the adhesives. Temperature and usage can change the rate at which oxidation happens though. But unused tires can be just as bad or even worse regardless of storage or condition from visual inspection if they are old enough. It also has some different groups reccomendations. In 1989, ADAC, Germany’s consumer advocacy group concluded: “Even tires that are just six years old – though they appear to be brand new – can present a safety risk. Tire experts even say that if they are not used, indeed, tires age more quickly.” In 1990, vehicle manufacturers including BMW, Audi, Volkswagen, Toyota, Mercedes-Benz, Nissan, and GM Europe, among others, included in the owner's manual warnings that tires older than six years should only be used in an emergency and replaced as soon as possible. The British Rubber Manufacturer's Association noted: “BRMA members strongly recommend that unused tires should not be put into service if they are over 6 years old and that all tires should be replaced 10 years from the date of their manufacture.” In 2005, Ford, DaimlerChrysler, and Bridgestone/Firestone added warnings that tires should be inspected at 5 years and replaced after 10. Michelin and Continental issued similar bulletins in 2006. Hankook did so in 2009. And also the NHTSA found tires six years and older were 84 percent of tire failure insurance claims, and then testing confirmed six years, and also interestingly that "Results indicated a strong correlation to the speed rating of the tire, with the higher speed rated tires losing the least capability with increasing age and mileage.” So if they're less than six years from manufacture they should be safe, if they're less than ten years they could be safe... or not... I'm probably going to stop driving my 944. For the date I think its usually only marked on one side of the tire, this example one would be the 26th week of 2013
  8. There was an article in classic motorsports magazine a while ago where a guy put tires that were visually good, no cracks or dry rot, on his triumph or something, they had been stored indoors no sunlight climate controlled, and on the highway they immediately disintegrated. I think they were older than 5 years though. I will try to find the article and what the recommendation was. I am infrequently driving my Porsche 944 on tires that have been on the car parked outdoors only more than 10 years now, tread and sidewall cracking pretty badly, I don't take it on the highway though, and am currently deciding on new tires.
  9. I did it with dash in, 74 one piece dash, and I can't see how it would be any easier by having it out. If the way the seal fits is the same for the two piece, if anything I would think it might be harder to get the little rubber lip on the inside of the seal to go over the edge of the dash if you're installing the dash after the seal. I was just reinstalling the seals that were already on the car, I assume they were BMW so I don't know about the UROs. When I installed mine there really wasn't too much force on the glass at any point, it even has a pretty significant chip right in the center but I removed and reinstalled without ever feeling like it would break. If I already had the URO seal I would try it and then if it's no good get the BMW seal, then it'll be easier the second time too. Also I thought it was pretty easy, and it was my first time installing a windshield. Lockstrip first, I just did it by hand, tool wasn't useful. Just spread the gap and push it in. Have your helper put light pressure in the center and where the rope is being pulled out, pull only one end of the rope at a time, overlap the rope for at least half the length of the glass. after all the rope is out give the glass a couple light smacks with your palm and it'll settle and center itself. I used a clothesline type rope. Lockstrip install 15 minutes glass install rear took 20 minutes to figure out front took just 5.
  10. https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=279963377 No affiliation just thought it was too cool not to share after I saw it.
  11. Classic cars on copart often surprise me with how high they sell for, even with major body damage. I'm guessing that for people whose primary business is selling parts or repairing and flipping cars they have different spending limits than the enthusiast. I wouldn't be surprised if it got up to or even above 10k.
  12. Tell him you have a cousin in Minnesota who can meet him face to face for the cash, then see what he says.
  13. I believe that website is one like many i have found that simply copy and pastes craigslists and other ads in order to possibly scam people or definitely at least collect their information. For example listings with odd text like this one that didn't copy and paste well. http://davidsclassiccars.com/bmw/402637-1982-bmw-320is-112095-miles-red-320.html Also there will be some that mention auctions which were probably copied from ebay. http://davidsclassiccars.com/bmw/418273-1982-bmw-320is-e21-with-cold-ac.html ^This car I specifically remember seeing on craigslist and it sold very quickly. Some other websites which I think are similar. http://www.2040-cars.com/ http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/ They have been useful for looking up cars which sold on craigslist and the listing is no longer up, to find pictures and what types of asking prices people have had. Especially if it's a rarer car which there might not be multiples of posted at any given time.
  14. I have a two tone/horn stebel on my car, sounds similar to this fiamm, typical italian air horn. But whats in your photo is only the compressor , do you have the horns? because those are what will determine the sound.

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