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albatcha

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  1. I did it similar to NYNick, I marked where I thought the holes were with pencil then I used a sewing type of tape measure to compare the driver side to the passenger side if it was symmetrical, and also if the distance between the holes matched the clips and visor base, if the distance from the edge of the window seal was the same on both sides etc. And then once you punch through the headliner to put in the screw there is a little bit of wiggle room with the material if it's off center slightly. If you're scared to puncture the headliner use a thin needle first. And once you find one it's easier to tell if the other one is in the right spot.
  2. I found the story I was thinking of, 10 year old tires stored indoors in bags, guy put them on the car and crashed, broke his neck, girlfriend died, killed the driver of another car he crashed into. I also found another study that tested multiple tire brands and models at different ages and they found that some were failing when subjected to half the amount of force that the new version of the exact same tire failed at. One person can tell you they never had problems with old tires, but compared to the data from the NHTSA and NTSB and many others that looks at information from years of laboratory experiments and hundreds of real world tires, that's like a congressman showing you a snowball and saying climate change isn't real.
  3. I thought about it some more, now I'm thinking the best storage might be mounted, inflated fully once to seat it on the rim, then inflated to just above atmospheric pressure, that way it's sealed but the air inside the tire is not putting much force outwards on the rubber changing it's porousness. And in response to mike, it's true that new tires can also fail, probably due to manufacturing issues, and it's true that old tires can be fine. But it seems as though the relation with age and tire failure is experimentally proven, all old tires might not fail but your old tires could be the ones that do, it's up to you to decide whether or not that's a big enough deal to you to change them. Same as all risk percentages in life. For me, on my 944 with ten year old tires that had no problems, after reading the data I have decided not to put off getting new tires any longer.
  4. It seems like if they are mounted on tires and properly inflated that is probably the best case scenario for tire life, being mounted and inflated minimizes the oxidation of the inside of the tire, compared to an unmounted tire exposed to the atmosphere inside and out. Plus being stored in a cooler place and not being flexed with the weight of the car and heated with the temperature from friction.
  5. I found this article about tire degradation, https://www.liveabout.com/the-science-of-tire-aging-3234377 It explains that the reason tires go bad is the oxidation, reaction with oxygen, of the rubber and all the adhesives. Temperature and usage can change the rate at which oxidation happens though. But unused tires can be just as bad or even worse regardless of storage or condition from visual inspection if they are old enough. It also has some different groups reccomendations. In 1989, ADAC, Germany’s consumer advocacy group concluded: “Even tires that are just six years old – though they appear to be brand new – can present a safety risk. Tire experts even say that if they are not used, indeed, tires age more quickly.” In 1990, vehicle manufacturers including BMW, Audi, Volkswagen, Toyota, Mercedes-Benz, Nissan, and GM Europe, among others, included in the owner's manual warnings that tires older than six years should only be used in an emergency and replaced as soon as possible. The British Rubber Manufacturer's Association noted: “BRMA members strongly recommend that unused tires should not be put into service if they are over 6 years old and that all tires should be replaced 10 years from the date of their manufacture.” In 2005, Ford, DaimlerChrysler, and Bridgestone/Firestone added warnings that tires should be inspected at 5 years and replaced after 10. Michelin and Continental issued similar bulletins in 2006. Hankook did so in 2009. And also the NHTSA found tires six years and older were 84 percent of tire failure insurance claims, and then testing confirmed six years, and also interestingly that "Results indicated a strong correlation to the speed rating of the tire, with the higher speed rated tires losing the least capability with increasing age and mileage.” So if they're less than six years from manufacture they should be safe, if they're less than ten years they could be safe... or not... I'm probably going to stop driving my 944. For the date I think its usually only marked on one side of the tire, this example one would be the 26th week of 2013
  6. There was an article in classic motorsports magazine a while ago where a guy put tires that were visually good, no cracks or dry rot, on his triumph or something, they had been stored indoors no sunlight climate controlled, and on the highway they immediately disintegrated. I think they were older than 5 years though. I will try to find the article and what the recommendation was. I am infrequently driving my Porsche 944 on tires that have been on the car parked outdoors only more than 10 years now, tread and sidewall cracking pretty badly, I don't take it on the highway though, and am currently deciding on new tires.
  7. I did it with dash in, 74 one piece dash, and I can't see how it would be any easier by having it out. If the way the seal fits is the same for the two piece, if anything I would think it might be harder to get the little rubber lip on the inside of the seal to go over the edge of the dash if you're installing the dash after the seal. I was just reinstalling the seals that were already on the car, I assume they were BMW so I don't know about the UROs. When I installed mine there really wasn't too much force on the glass at any point, it even has a pretty significant chip right in the center but I removed and reinstalled without ever feeling like it would break. If I already had the URO seal I would try it and then if it's no good get the BMW seal, then it'll be easier the second time too. Also I thought it was pretty easy, and it was my first time installing a windshield. Lockstrip first, I just did it by hand, tool wasn't useful. Just spread the gap and push it in. Have your helper put light pressure in the center and where the rope is being pulled out, pull only one end of the rope at a time, overlap the rope for at least half the length of the glass. after all the rope is out give the glass a couple light smacks with your palm and it'll settle and center itself. I used a clothesline type rope. Lockstrip install 15 minutes glass install rear took 20 minutes to figure out front took just 5.
  8. https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=279963377 No affiliation just thought it was too cool not to share after I saw it.
  9. Classic cars on copart often surprise me with how high they sell for, even with major body damage. I'm guessing that for people whose primary business is selling parts or repairing and flipping cars they have different spending limits than the enthusiast. I wouldn't be surprised if it got up to or even above 10k.
  10. Tell him you have a cousin in Minnesota who can meet him face to face for the cash, then see what he says.
  11. I believe that website is one like many i have found that simply copy and pastes craigslists and other ads in order to possibly scam people or definitely at least collect their information. For example listings with odd text like this one that didn't copy and paste well. http://davidsclassiccars.com/bmw/402637-1982-bmw-320is-112095-miles-red-320.html Also there will be some that mention auctions which were probably copied from ebay. http://davidsclassiccars.com/bmw/418273-1982-bmw-320is-e21-with-cold-ac.html ^This car I specifically remember seeing on craigslist and it sold very quickly. Some other websites which I think are similar. http://www.2040-cars.com/ http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/ They have been useful for looking up cars which sold on craigslist and the listing is no longer up, to find pictures and what types of asking prices people have had. Especially if it's a rarer car which there might not be multiples of posted at any given time.
  12. I have a two tone/horn stebel on my car, sounds similar to this fiamm, typical italian air horn. But whats in your photo is only the compressor , do you have the horns? because those are what will determine the sound.
  13. I'm pretty sure the two things you said Inka'd02 were 1) " This said in the future it would be better to ask the seller directly on BAT instead of starting a 3 page thread that said seller has no idea about and hurts the sale of the car. " and 2) " To be clear, BAT allows direct messaging. In the past any questions or concerns, from experts not interested in bidding, or potential bidders, have been addressed privately through that interface." So it seemed to me that you were saying you didn't want people discussing your car on the 2002faq. You wanted them asking you either privately or on the BAT comments. Anyways I still disagree. Also you need an account on Bring a Trailer to comment or send a message to the seller. If you have an account and want to start a forum post about someones car and feel like taking the initiative to contact the seller good for you but I don't think it's your responsibility or obligation. Especially good for you if you feel like making an account just so you can tell the seller their car is being discussed. If you're selling a valuable car online it's worth it to get a nice camera and spend a few hours taking lots of clear pictures. Two of the original points of this thread, the cut in the firewall and the shape of the holes which the fuel lines go through, as hard as I look I really can't tell what's going on in the pictures and I can't tell if they are correct or not. The firewall notch looks like a edge trim piece might have been put over it making it look odd and the holes in the trunk look like the textured paint and blurry photo might just be making it hard to see the shape. If the photos were good those two points wouldn't have existed and the third one for the fuel pump stuff would have been easy to say oh its just that one thing thats probably just something an owner did. Based on the description it sounds like a lot of work was done and it's a pretty well sorted car, I think it should have bid higher in the current market, unless the market just happens to be changing at this very moment, but the primary reason it didn't is not this thread it's the poor photos and those poor photos are also what caused this thread I think. Instead of the lesson learned here being anything about talking to the seller, the lesson should be to the seller, if buying a camera and taking the time to take nice photos can raise the bidding on an auction more than they cost then you should do so. Even if you hired a high school kid who likes photography, for a hundred bucks they could really improve the listing. And don't show up butthurt at the "3 page thread that said seller has no idea about and" supposedly "hurts the sale of the car" thinking that that's the main reason the sale has been hurt.
  14. Let's not end this thread with the precedent being set that no car being auctioned or sold can be discussed on the forum, only direct questions should be sent to the seller. Bring A Trailer is not the 2002faq and it's not the place for 02 enthusiasts to discuss details with other 02 enthusiasts. I think it's fine to say whatever you want to say and not have to be required to inform every seller that you're discussing their car. It's reasonable and acceptable to be interested enough in a car to talk about it with your internet friends without being obligated seek answers from the seller. I don't think anyone who discussed this car was wrong for doing so. And for goodness sake there wasn't even a photo of the stamped VIN at the start of the listing. Also Bring A Trailer is really the type of place where having a lot of photos and them being good photos will really help. No offense but this car really didn't wow me in the photos, some seemed overexposed, a little blurry, and it being overcast doesn't help either. I think if the listing had 200 really nice detailed clear well lit photos of every important aspect of the car this forum post wouldn't have affected the auction at all. I think the reason the notch looks strange is that it looks like it might have some kind of added trim on it that is obscuring the actual shape of where the metal is cut. Once again, if that is the case having a clear photo would have made that obvious and then it wouldn't have been a point of discussion. Also I have a plug on the steering column cover of my 74 tii because a previous owner removed the fuel injection system and converted to a carb and hacked a big ugly hole for a choke. It looks like they tried to punch through the plastic with a hammer and a screwdriver. So even with the original column cover to the car I have a little cap there to cover the hole.
  15. I have the trico classic 15", I got them through advance auto parts for $10 plus if you use code RMN25 you get 25% off. I scuffed them up and painted them black to match my black wiper arms. They look good/period correct and work well.


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