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2002FjordBaur

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  1. After a lot of research and failed experimentation I came across Alclad paints https://www.alclad2-online.co.uk/product/alclad-ii-chrome-for-plastic-alc107/ The printed parts require a lot of prep and application is tricky but i'm really please with the result. Not true 'mirror chrome' but a good match for my 45 year old trim! Tested on my 3d printed Baur rear hood corner trim and the end result is great.
  2. Following with interest... same with my brakes, even using a power bleeder. RHD or left? I have the RHD dual servo added complication and no leaks but definitely air in the system. New everything, servos, MC, calipers, rear cylinders, flex pipes, etc. I pump the pedal and its firms up. Is PTFE tape on bleeder threads worth it?
  3. Broken down waiting for the tow truck but looking sweet!
  4. Printed in PET-G, easy to print with, good exterior use properties and easy for post process sanding. Yep, there are various industrial options to chrome plastics, but I'm really hoping to find a solution for home use. Chrome foil is one option for flatter designs but the curves on this part are too tight and foil doesn't work. I tried the usual 'Chrome; spray paints but they aint chrome. I have an order of 2 stage chroming paint on its way and hoping good things for that. I know I'll never get a true mirror chrome but just a bit shiny will suffice, especially for my car.. there isn't a bit of trim on it that hasn't got a scratch already!
  5. In my ongoing quest to completely remanufacturing my car in plastic, the latest tiny 3D printed addition... I was missing one corner of the rear folding hood base trim corner. As I suspected, this part is made from unobtainium and the few available are not cheap! So, I 3D modelled and printed the missing side measured from the crusty corner piece I already have. Shape and fit are perfect, so now just need to find a product that will give me that elusive hobbyist 'Chrome' surface finish. I have a couple of products on the way (a film and sprayed paint) so I'm hoping one of those will work?
  6. 2002FjordBaur

    London New Years Day Parade 2020

    The crowd went wild!
  7. Thanks, but wouldn't like to chance another using this... just in case it doesn't perform as claimed or disappears into the sill!
  8. Designed and 3D printed this pad to use with my trolley jack. Shaped to fit into the jack point and printed with a semi flex rubber material to protect the paint. Only to be used to lift the car in emergencies or quick access if needed and always with additional axle stands. Luckily, my sills were completely replaced a few years ago with new inner and outer and the full Cabriolet box section middle panel, so they're almost the strongest part of my Baur! Also, designed and printed a general purpose pad to use for standard jacking use. I think I'll add rounding to v2 design.
  9. Please add me to the list too! Do you delivery to the UK?
  10. Yes, as mentioned 3D scanning is already being used in automotive applications to either prototype designs or remanufacture obsolete parts. The challenge is that even the cheap end of those type of high end 3D scanners cost $Ks and then the skill and software to clean up and make ready for 3D printing is considerable. It would be possible to scan or 3D model and print a centre grille for an 02 at home on a desk top printer but apart from the 3D print, the amount of post prep work involved and paint application to reproduce the silver 'Aluminium' frame effect would be a challenge. But it could be done, and only on close inspection would the '3D printed' surface finish aspect of the part be visible. I've 3D printer loads of trim, clips, model badges, centre console parts for my car and all are performing well and the aesthetic quality is perfectly acceptable. 3D printing technology will only grow from strength to strength in all industries but particularly as parts for classic cars become more difficult to source the opportunities are massive.
  11. Coincidently, I'm looking at a few design options of a model badge for another owner who has converted a 1602 to electric. Obviously, he could just add an 'EV' badge of some sort elsewhere if desired, but the request is to potentially redesign the 1602 badge. I think it has possibilities? If it goes ahead, I'll 3D print the badge.
  12. Strangely, my indicators steering wheel return cancel only works for left turn, not right? This thread has given me 'nudge' to investigate!
  13. I've been using desktop 3D printing technology for a years and in the past few years I've been successfully using it to reproduce those NLA, expensive plastic trim or even parts that are available and cheap. The key thing is to have the ability to model 3D parts from pictures, broken existing parts or parts that are still attached to the car that can be removed and measured. Car trim is (normally) symmetrical, so if you have a lefthand part, its easy to model, mirror and print the other side. Accuracy is obviously key, but to test fit and iterate a design is so easy with the tech that it normally only takes a couple of tests to get a good fit. There are various free modelling software about, Google Sketchup, Blender, etc. There is a fairly steep learning curve for any 3d modelling package, but Google/youtube has tuts for all. 3D printing materials availability is as the existing parts in any car. ABS plastic is used in most injection moulding applications and is also standard material for 3D printing. But new material and filament are being developed all the time and many non petroleum base materials are becoming common. I use mostly PLA or PET-G for most of my trim prints and those works fine - interior, under bonnet, etc. Extreme temps can test a 3D printed part and a summertime car interior can get very hot, but as I say, ABS/Nylon/PET-G is available if needed. But be warned, unfortunately at the moment, desktop 3D printing isn't a plug and play technology. So a user will also need a good degree of patients and trouble shooting knowledge to get the best out of their printer. I would Google research as much as you can, usable printers can be purchased for $500-1000. I use an old Ultimaker 2, its a good printer but there are cheaper and better printers available now days. Happy to help further if needed.
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