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02Pilot

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  1. 02Pilot
    Oh yeah, forgot one thing: flashlights. I carry two, a Petzl headlamp and a Nebo Big Larry work light. The latter is nice and bright, has a magnetic base that actually holds it in place (within reason - gravity is a harsh mistress), and has a flashing red emergency mode that's reassuring when you're stuck on a dark road with traffic flowing by.
  2. 02Pilot
    That's cheap (if it holds up). I have the Milwaukee unit as well, and I agree that it's a great tool. The biggest issue with cordless tools is the batteries, so it makes a lot of sense to stay with one system. Does Husky offer other useful stuff that uses the same batteries? Oh, and for those in the Milwaukee universe, the new M12 3/8" stubby impact is fantastic. 250 ft-lbs on a 12v battery.
  3. 02Pilot
    Going to take a measurement in the morning and see if I can use these. Stand by.
  4. 02Pilot
    I just went through a major tool reorganization (both garage and car) this summer, and arrived at most of the same conclusions regarding the trunk essentials that you did, Paul. I will offer one additional development with which I am particularly pleased: tool rolls. After struggling with several box arrangements, I decided to search for alternate solutions and came upon a near-perfectly sized tool roll (I'm still using a small box for spares). I filled mine with a mixture of old German and American tools, most of which became available as a result of the garage reorganization and some new tool purchases. I went with 3/8" sockets (they're in a dedicated set of pockets on the right side of the roll), but otherwise it's pretty close to what you've got. Rolled up it tucks nicely into the corner of the trunk where the jack used to reside (I carry a scissor jack I scavenged out of an old VW). Here's the link in case anyone's interested: https://www.amazon.com/1173-Pocket-Socket-Tool-Pouch/dp/B000KKUTCY
  5. 02Pilot
    I suspect we may define "fun to drive" differently. I've driven a few of the X-models over the years, and none have impressed me. I found them universally too heavy and too tall, and the interiors are less Teutonic and more Toyota. I'm sure yours is capable, especially with the manual, and I hope you continue to enjoy it. But I won't be looking for one.
  6. 02Pilot
    There's no amount of prep that will save a 2002 from rapidly disintegrating from the massive amounts of salt they dump on the roads in NY. By February it looks like Bonneville around here. And the less said about the X3 (or the X1, or the X5, or...) the better.
  7. 02Pilot
    Yes. So would the 135i. You really don't want to deal with the headaches of the turbos (especially on the earlier N54), direct injection (it takes how many hours to remove the valve cover?), and various other complications, and the 3.0l NA engine in the 128i is plenty powerful. Also consider that 1Ms are currently selling for prices usually associated with world-class Fabrege egg collections and AB- compatible kidneys - not exactly what you want in a winter car, methinks.
  8. 02Pilot
    I'm happy to find myself ahead of the curve on this one. I got mine last year (M Sport 6MT). I'll just leave this here: https://view.imirus.com/290/document/3406/page/45
  9. 02Pilot
    The 2 - as I understand it - is heavier, softer, and has no naturally aspirated engine options in this country. The 1, and specially the 128i, has pretty much the last unfussy interior (no screen), the last NA I6 engine, no silly driver assists (auto rev matching) or fake engine sounds piped through the speakers. I'm not saying it's as simple as a 2002, but it's the last car BMW made that could even be considered part of the same lineage.
  10. 02Pilot
    If after the first of the year you still haven't decided on something and you want to get eyes on my 128i to see if an E82 is an option we can probably work something out - I can't be far off your route between Albany and the city.
  11. 02Pilot
    As soon as it starts snowing I happily turn off the stability control (yes, it's more than just traction control now) in my 128i. BMW's programming on the DSC is notoriously intrusive. I was invited to an intro event for the X5 when it first came out that included a mini-autox in the snow. Trying to drive it normally led to it pushing off into the bank every time as the computers cut power when I tried to rotate the rear with the throttle. Only when I told the instructor (minder, really) that I was either turning the DSC off or I was going to get it so stuck that they'd need a crane to get it out that he relented and let me turn it off. After that it was fine. My car has an intermediate "DTC" setting that allows a little slipping and sliding before it clamps down, but it's still annoying. Four good snows and rock on. I really like Toby's 318ti suggestion - those cars are very 02-like in handling, if not appearance. I even know of a pretty solid one for sale - probably not a clean enough example for the OP, but would make a great snow/rallyx car (and don't think I'm not tempted to buy it for myself, but I just can't swing it right now).
  12. 02Pilot
    I get the rust thing, but snow? In NYC? It's not Plattsburgh or Buffalo. Put four snow tires on it and drive on. I live north of the city and have driven nothing but RWD BMWs 365 days a year for the last decade and a half at least. Not only is it doable, it's fun.
  13. 02Pilot
    How exactly is an AWD P-car a "more pure and straightforward...driving experience"? It may be a lot of things, but 2002-like? I don't think so. Go buy the cheaper of the two 91 318is in the classifieds if you want something that mimics the 2002 experience. Or if you think you need more modern stuff, or are concerned about the E30 rusting, go find an E82 128i. Full disclosure: I've had a 128i as my daily for about a year and half at this point.
  14. 02Pilot
    If you've got fuel in all throats, it's more than likely a fuel pressure problem, not a carb problem. Check pressure with a separate gauge to confirm.
  15. 02Pilot
    Not revving the engines in your other BMWs is a crime. Every BMW I've owned, most of them daily drivers, saw the redline almost every time I got the engine up to temperature. You don't have to stay there, but a good blast of throttle now and again is nothing to be afraid of, and you're missing out on the best part of the power band. And if something falls out of your M10 at 4k, it was going to fall out anyway. But I'm willing to bet that everything will remain firmly attached.
  16. 02Pilot
    Fix the basics, make sure your fluids are good, and then go drive the thing. Hard. Get it hot, hit the redline, lots of throttle, for a good hour or so. Check everything over and do it again. Burn the crap out and see where you really are. As Mike said, you may well see improvements. Lightly used and babied M10s are rarely at their best.
  17. 02Pilot
    More empirical evidence than you ever wanted: http://pqiamerica.com/PCMO_Sample_Summary_12_15_2016.html http://pqiamerica.com/HDEO_Sample_Summary_Dec_2016.html
  18. 02Pilot
    Counldn't find anything official, but there are some recent VOA reports from Blackstone that show zinc in the 1100-1200ppm range for both the 5w40 and 15w40 flavors of Rotella.
  19. 02Pilot
    If the fit was that tight something's wrong. Definitely chase the threads with a tap before installing studs. New ones with either an external or internal hex end are available, making the job a lot easier. Blue Loctite will keep them in place.
  20. 02Pilot
    Anybody got a part number for these Ford Focus seals? I would think you could overcome the lack of a proper right-angle corner by cutting and gluing in the proper shape. If these are truly cheap new I may need to replace mine sooner than I had planned.
  21. 02Pilot
    Spin an M8 nut on and then MIG weld it to the stud (in effect creating a bolt), then loosen with a socket - it should spin right out. The heat of the weld will radiate down through the stud and loosen up the threads without any risk to the surrounding area.
  22. 02Pilot
    Were they replaced with known good, recently tested injectors? Old injectors are prone to dribbling fuel. The systematic way to check is to pressurize the rail, turn the car off, and watch the gauge. If fuel is leaking the pressure will drop; if not, it will hold steady indefinitely. Motors don't run without air and fuel, so again if it's running with the injectors disconnected it's getting fuel from somewhere. I presume that you've checked to make sure the air filter and intake pre-throttle aren't blocked. Will the car rev at all, or does it stumble and die when you open the throttle? Before replacing the whole harness, just do continuity tests on each wire that goes to the ECU. If something's grounded or shorted you should find it.
  23. 02Pilot
    So you're unplugging all the injectors and the car still runs if you hold the throttle open? If that's the case, you've got fuel leaking into the intake somewhere. Is there a cold start injector on that motor? If so, check that for leaks. If not, check the primary injectors for leaks with the rail pressurized.
  24. 02Pilot
    So you mean you're physically pulling the rail with the injectors attached to it? Or you're pulling the electrical connection? I don't get how it stays running in either case, but I'm trying to understand what you are doing. The only thing I see missing from the list is the AFM. The flapper-types are notorious for intermittent and false signals as they age. If that's signalling a lot more air than it's actually passing, it could be calling for too much fuel. Do you have a spare lying around to swap in for testing?
  25. 02Pilot
    What are you unplugging when it's running? Does it happen hot and cold? Does it run better under load, or is it rich regardless?
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