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02Pilot

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  1. 02Pilot
    My gauge pod has lived over the vacant seat belt warning hole for the last 20 years, and after seeing way too much TV and too many GM digital dashes and talking Nissans (all in the 80s, unsurprisingly) those LED bars freak me out. mintgrün, you got a link for your analog AFR?
  2. 02Pilot
    I could see hooking one up for testing, but I like to maintain the relative simplicity of my period gauge setup (oil pressure and voltage) for normal driving, especially since every AFR gauge I've seen is digital (and ugly). In this case, apparently, I'm favoring form over function, which is very unlike me...odd, but what can I say. I'm an enigma.
  3. 02Pilot
    I knew there was a reason I didn't visually inspect the progression holes - on my carbs those holes have swaged-in brass plugs rather than screws.
  4. 02Pilot
    That's why I went for ignition first. I've been turning wrenches on these cars for close to 30 years at this point, so I'm at least reasonably aware of their more common problem areas. The carbs are simply next on the list. The only other thing I can fathom is something producing a little slack in the driveline and that I'm only feeling it in the light steady-state throttle condition and mistaking it for an engine issue, but that seems quite unlikely.
  5. 02Pilot
    It's transient and intermittent, if not downright random. Let's say I'm doing ~45-55mph steady, 4th gear, flat road - every once in a while there will be a slight hesitation, not directly related to anything (seemingly). Accel or decel, or full-on highway speeds, and it's not there, so figure under 3k RPM. I'll pull the progression hole plugs and look, but one way or another the carbs are getting their first rebuild in maybe 20 years over the winter.
  6. 02Pilot
    No worries. The rebuild is pretty straight-forward. If you've got that much play, the fiber washers are probably gone. I did have to put in a slightly thicker shim to get it perfect, but the fiber washers were source of the majority of the play (which was about 0.4mm before the rebuild).
  7. 02Pilot
    Perhaps you missed the part about "I rebuilt my spare 002 distributor (same as the one in the car) to dead-on .005 axial play."
  8. 02Pilot
    Sure. FWIW, I checked and those boxes are 12x12x5.5in, so I'm pretty sure even one manifold would be a tight squeeze. I don't really care about the packaging or the speed of shipping, so whatever is easiest/cheapest is fine. I just figured the flat rate boxes would be cheapest on account of the weight. EDIT: I wonder if putting them in a shipping tube would be the most secure and space-efficient method...again, whatever's cheap and easy.
  9. 02Pilot
    Interested in the exhaust manifolds, but I'm all the way on the other side of the country. Do you think they'd both fit in a large Priority Mail flat rate box?
  10. 02Pilot
    OK, update. After dip-tank cleaning all the bits, I rebuilt my spare 002 distributor (same as the one in the car) to dead-on .005 axial play. Installed with new cap, rotor, points, condenser, and BP5ES; all the same as what was there except they sent me a 1K rotor instead of the 5K that was in there. Red coil is only a few years old, as are the wires. Power actually seems a little better (probably just the placebo effect), but the miss (or perhaps better described as hesitation) is still there under the same conditions. At this point I'm calling it a fuel problem. I'll suck it up for a month or two, then yank the carbs and rebuild them over the winter. I'm guessing one of the progression holes is plugged.
  11. 02Pilot
    OK, got the new parts collected and the distributor on the bench. All disassembled except for the cam. The FAQ says to lift it with two screwdrivers, presumably to force the clip to spread and release. I've put more force than I like on those two screwdrivers and it's not moving. Clip rotates, not rusted, but the cam isn't releasing. Any super secret tricks for getting this thing apart?
  12. 02Pilot
    I know there are good, logical reasons for letting other people fix certain things, but when I grew up if something broke you fixed it. And if you didn't know how, you learned. Paying someone was a last resort and something to be mildly ashamed of. So while my distributor might end up going out for service eventually, I couldn't live with myself if I just jumped to that step. That's what sent me down this particular rabbit hole. I'm still chasing it, but I haven't had a lot of time. The Webers are coming off to be rebuilt this winter anyway, so if I haven't found it by then I'll just rip everything apart.
  13. 02Pilot
    I put a set of Integra seats in a 2002 once. They weren't bad, and they were dirt cheap. It's totally out of left field, but I'm deeply smitten with the manual sport seats in my 128i (E82 chassis). If I can score another set I'm going to try to put them in the 02. Definitely need to get them down on the floor, as they are rather high. And heavy. I think the rears may work as well, but probably require even more fab work. Seriously, any BMW manual sport seats in decent shape are worth considering if you think you can make them fit. So many adjustments....
  14. 02Pilot
    Yes, 5/32" - I'm not operating at full speed today, obviously. The whole transaction was done privately, though he does distributor rebuilds for VWs. I reached out to him through his website after reading some of his posts about the parts kits. It's here: http://www.glenn-ring.com/bosch/ I haven't plotted anything. I'm going to fix the axial play first. Once I get the first one done and installed I may plot the curves if I get ambitious and/or bored. I have two 008 centrifugal advance and one 059 vacuum. EDIT: Brain fade again. I have two 002 (not 008) distributors and one 059.
  15. 02Pilot
    I found a guy through one of the VW boards who was willing to sell me a few loose bits (assorted shims, 6 fiber washers, and 3 felt pads) - enough to do the three distributors I have - for significantly less than the cost of the kit. As suggested above, I also found that the fiber washers alone are more readily available for around $2/ea shipped. It's still galling considering what I'm buying, but I guess I have to take what I can get. The OE pin is spec'd at 4x20, but it measures more like 4x18. I was going to order 4x20 roll pins, but if 5/16" fits I'll just run to the hardware store. Thanks for the tip.
  16. 02Pilot
    Think I figured out a source for what I need. One last question: the pin above the helical gear has to be drilled out, as I understand it - is there any good reason I can't just replace it with a simple roll pin?
  17. 02Pilot
    I decided to rebuild the spare 008 distributor I've had on my bench forever. When I went to order the rebuild kit, I discovered that the good folks at Robert Bosch GmbH seem to have recently developed a taste for champagne and caviar, or possibly crack, as the price of the kit is now hovering around $90. For a few shims and other bits. While my first instinct is to head over to corporate and break my foot off in someone's ass, I figured perhaps it's better to see if some enterprising individual has found an alternate source for these parts. Seriously, it can't be that hard to replicate these things. Anyone? And while you're at it, anybody found a good source for "Bosch Sucks" bumper stickers?
  18. 02Pilot
    Motive bleeder, right? That hose always fails. I bought yards of new hose and just replace it before every use. As to clean-up, can you throw the wheels on and roll it outside? I soaked the whole area in hot soapy water (Dawn) and then flushed it out with a hose. If you can't, I'd just throw some pans under it and at least spray some of the Dawn solution all over.
  19. 02Pilot
    If you really want to kill the existing rust, plug up all the holes and one end of the tube, then arrange it with the open end up and fill it with Evapo-Rust. This stuff is great and totally non-toxic (I don't know what it is, but it's not a traditional acid etch); I've recently done a bunch of old tools with it, and it just eats the old rust and leaves a nice clean surface. Leave it a few days, then drain it out (you may need to top it up if your plugs leak). If you can find a long stiff brush to run through first and knock off the loose rust it will help things. When you're done, treat with one of the above methods.
  20. 02Pilot
    Pretty much what I figured. Not much friction area vs. a lot of rotational force. I've got a set of the IE bushings waiting to go in. 20 years (give or take) on the previous poly bushings is probably enough.
  21. 02Pilot
    There's also these adjustables: https://www.bavauto.com/bmw-trailing-arm-bushing-pfr5-306gbx4 I'm also curious about these adjustable bushing setups. While they seem like a band-aid rather than a proper fix (welding in adjusters), if they hold adjustment they would save a lot of work.
  22. 02Pilot
    Yep, it might be. I just can't figure out why the miss is only at light, constant throttle. If it were the Pertronix, I would think it would be constant, or related to a variable like heat, or even totally random. But I can't figure out how to correlate an intermittent miss that only occurs under particular non-strenuous driving conditions with a failure of a magnetic trigger.
  23. 02Pilot
    Dual Weber 40 DCOEs, Carter rotary electric pump. Had that setup for 20+ years. They're clearly getting enough fuel, since I can run at WOT without fuel starvation, but I have considered the possibility of a plugged progression hole affecting light throttle running on one cylinder, which might be just enough to create the slight miss I'm feeling. Ignition seems more likely, however, so I'm running through that side of things first.
  24. 02Pilot
    Recently developed a slight, intermittent miss at light, steady throttle. Idle OK, WOT OK, so naturally I'm looking at ignition first. I haven't found anything that seems overtly wrong, but I could use some extra eyes on it. Have a look and see if I've missed anything. Centrifugal advance distributor, Pertronix, stock cap & rotor, correct NGK plugs, Bosch wires & red coil, resistance wire intact, no ballast - Plug appearance consistent, gaps good. - Plug wires resistance consistent. - Cap & rotor clean, no measured resistance. - (Meter resistance 0.4 ohm - values below are corrected) - Resistance wire 1.4 ohm - Coil primary resistance 1.4 ohm - Coil secondary resistance 10k ohm - System operating voltage 13.8v - Voltage at coil + at idle 10.5v - Voltage at coil + running 11.8v Nothing seems wrong to me. The coil is not overheating, no wires melting. The one thing I cannot pin down is the resistance spec for the Bosch coil (p/n 0221119050). I've found listings for the 030 red coil at 1.6-1.8 ohm primary resistance, but nothing for the 050. Nothing has been changed in the ignition for several years and thousands of miles while the miss is new in the last few weeks, so it's clearly something failing rather than incompatibility. Any thoughts?
  25. 02Pilot
    New parts too often suck - sadly, it's where things are at the moment. If it were me, I'd take a Dremel and notch that distributor cap to keep it in place. Just match it up with the old one, mark, and cut.
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