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  1. Being someone that imprinted on the E21 320i my science teacher bought new (and expounded to the class over his dilemma, buy the aging but known 02 or the new platform including its newfangled injection system), big bumpers and all, and someone that drooled over the exotic grey market 323 - the very definition of an adolescent’s dream, I know what I’d go for. Whatever you do, don’t part it out for upgrades. Yeah, it’s a tasty shopping list of parts and mods, but at the end of the day you’d have a mid to hot 02 but destroy the value in the original package, and the world will be less one irreplaceable E21 323. But what do I know, I tilt at windmills
  2. Chuckle...I think we’ve all had a moment like that, although maybe not all are honest enough to admit it. But yeah, I guess that could throw off the mix 😉 Glad you found it before pulling out all your hair, or messing with all your settings. I did have a case once where I was chasing a problem and got my settings so out of whack the car was nigh undriveable. I got so frustrated I had to park the car, and a short walk-about turned into a longer than expected dormant period. When I finally turned my attention back, I started with setting everything back to a factory baseline, then proceeding from there. I don’t know what made the biggest difference, resetting the car or resetting my brain, but I had messed so much with the settings chasing some ghost or another, I was really lost. After the reset, it was pretty quick to find the fun the car is capable of. Enjoy Another Phil
  3. Having tuned my tii at both sea level and at 7800 feet, I can second the need for a WBO2 or AFM sensor. Everything else is really guesswork. Also, I don’t believe the D cam in the tuna can affects fuel ratio in a linear manner, it’s not a matter of simply rotating it until the mix is sufficiently lean or rich. As Preyupy explained it to me at a show once, those brilliant German engineers took advantage of Hemholtz resonation to stuff more air into the engine at some speeds, accepting some losses at other speeds. The fuel cone is therefore an asymmetrical cone, to provide more relative fuel at some points, less at others. Synchronizing the D cam is effectively aligning the fuel cone and throttle body relative to that Hemholtz affect. However at 5,200 feet, if your car and pump weren’t previously set for that altitude, you’ll likely need to adjust the Verboten screw, which *does* affect the fuel ratio across the board. I’ve also heard some amount of this adjustment is also needed for modern fuels, which seems reasonable too. My tii took over 2.5 turns to find the right mix, and now it really rips!
  4. Yay indeed! typo alert tho ~ independent is spelled with an e, as in dent (not dant) Back to the OP, I give a big thumbs up for BluntTech - good prices, great service, they really support what they sell and that means a lot to me. I find it’s better to have a strong relationship with a vendor you can trust and throw lots of business their way, rather than try and chase the lowest cost website and split an order a half dozen ways. If nothing else it saves time and shipping!
  5. RealOEM appears to show two different screws, 5.6x19 in the front and 5.5x38 at the rear. I’d try Belmetric, https://www.belmetric.com/phillips-pan-tapping-c-10_82/?zenid=q7eoeq7vceuf8nf290uhlh7m00
  6. Listen to your mechanic. There are some things that really need to be matched in sets, and pistons are one of those things. I know you’re thinking only one is damaged so only one needs to be replaced, but trying to do that will likely cost you far, far more in the long run. Besides, for someone selling a set, like the guy in the classifieds with the grand piano tops, breaking up the set would leave him with three expensive paperweights. Not a lot of Geo Metro tuners out there looking to upgrade to M10 pistons 😉
  7. Are you taking the route thru Utah and Vegas, or South through Albuquerque?
  8. Before I’d do that, I’d “buy” another car for a friend and let them use it for unlimited miles, payment being the approximate value of the daily driver insurance costs.
  9. Opening the wing vents can take the pressure off the seals, and really reduce the wind noise. Or at least move it down to a low frequency that isn’t so obnoxious. Plus it’s old school fun. congrats on the new ride. Welcome to the insanity 😉
  10. Sweet! Congrats, what was it that made the difference?
  11. There are lots of options for replacement M10 motors that should come in well under that. If the current engine isn’t numbers matching then there really isn’t any benefit to staying with the current one, especially as it’s been so hammered.
  12. IIRC there’s two parts to the process - static timing (engine not running) first. Find TDC per Mark92131’s instructions, where you can see the TDC line at the port at the flywheel, the pointer at the pulley, the mark at the camshaft, and most importantly cylinder one lobes are sticking straight out. You don’t need to be afraid of pulling the valve cover, it’s kinda cool and fun inside. Welcome to the inner sanctum of your engine. Your valve cover might need to be changed due to age if it’s cracked or leaking, but popping the top off shouldn’t hurt it. Once the engine is running, you rotate the distributor to see the ball at the target RPM. it’s visible by using the timing light strobe which is triggered by the pulse in cylinder #1 spark plug lead. The ball on all M10 motors are at the exact same location, but the factory gives different target rpms based on the given distributor/year of car. Good timing lights like the one Tom mentioned give you an rpm readout (plus a lot more). It’s also good to know that target was based on 1960s fuel, on a new engine, and to meet required emissions. You’ll want to tune further by additional advance (rotation) to find max power and feel, then dial it back just a touch to avoid detonation. Give me a shout if you need help, at my username at gmail. Have timing light can travel 😉
  13. May or may not be off topic, but what does it look like when detonation strikes - ie heavy pinging or knocking? I ask because I had an M30 where cylinder 6 had a fair amount of that same damage pattern that looks like someone attacked it with a straight blade screwdriver, identical to 3 & 4 here. We suspected detonation, but weren’t sure.
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