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About Chris_B

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  1. BTW, for an accurate reading, you should be checking at the battery. Measuring at the "cigarette" lighter will subject the reading to a number of insertion losses between the battery and the cig plug.
  2. Your alternator is weak at best. It should be able to maintain +14V except under extreme load (with an 02 that would be with headlights and heater blower on). Regardless, the important point is that your charging system is keeping your battery charged (>+12.6V), so this your situation seems to be good enough.
  3. Seems really highly unlikely that your flow meter is defective, but I can't think of an explanation for that reading. Maybe someone else has an idea? How did you determine your fuel level?
  4. Are you saying that both carbs are reading in the 20-25 kg/h range at idle? They should be in the mid-single digits (4-6) at the ~850 RPMs. Have you inspected the needle valves in your carbs? What you describe sounds like you may be getting to much fuel being pushed into the carbs (i.e., needle valve not sealing). Sorry if I missed this, but what is your input fuel pressure?
  5. Because they invariably start leaking over time or if the carbs are not torqued down properly.
  6. The plugs don't look like they are all gapped the same. Could be an optical illusion. I suggest that you go no more than .032" The "pull the plug wire at idle" test speaks more about what your carbs are contributing. Have you run another carb flow (balance) test now that your motor will idle at a reasonable speed? Your ignition advance seems excessive. Conventional wisdom (FWIW) suggests that advance should be 10 degrees at 1K RPMs and up from there. I believe the Innovate LC-1 is a wideband 02 sensor. To install something similar in your 02, you would need to have a bung welded in to your exhaust downpipe to mount a wideband 02 sensor, with a system like the AEM Digital Wideband Air Fuel Ratio UEGO O2 Controller Gauge Kit
  7. It seems pretty unlikely that if your motor runs OK at higher RPMS you have something going on like incorrect firing order. All of your problems appear to be in the lower RPM range (i.e., <2500 RPMS). Backfires usually indicate ignition problems or extremely lean mixtures. Do you have a wideband AFM? It may be difficult to diagnose this problem without one. Also, the motor shaking syndrome is often caused by improper carb balance. You are not getting an accurate reading of balance at the RPMs shown in your video. Setting balance is a somewhat delicate operation that can really only be performed at lower RPMs. How are you mechanically balancing your carbs?
  8. Before you shitcan your soft mounts you may want to check the torque on the mounting bolts (i.e., are the carbs tight enough against the mount). Are you using Thackary washers (the spring like things)? They have to be torqued down properly. Are you have leaking from both carbs?
  9. What kind of carb to manifold seals are you using. If you are using softmounts, a typical scenario is that fuel leaks out at that spot and runs down to the bottom of the carb.
  10. Steve, when I go to check out, I don't see Paypal as an option.
  11. +1 Have you synced your carbs?
  12. Yes. It would provide a buffer to fulfill short periods of high demand by the stereo, without having to go to a larger battery.
  13. It turns out that all of my electrical system problem(s) were related to poor chassis ground. The voltage drop (about -1V) at the dizzy is probably not that unusual, considering the resistance from insertion and contact loss in the circuit between the battery and the dizzy. This didn't seem to affect my factory Bosch dizzy. The 123 specs say "voltage:4,0-15,0 Volts. I would say, not. The dizzy craps out when voltage drop below about ~12V. With the poor ground, my system voltage at the dizzy was falling below +12V with any major load on the system. After I fixed the chassis ground, the voltage at the dizzy was much more stable, but still dropped to +12.5V when I loaded up the system. Today, I installed a relay drawing power directly from the battery, using the "green" wire from the ignition switch as the trigger for the relay. As I had hoped, this provides ~+13.5% at the dizzy regardless of load on the system, so I am a happy camper.
  14. I don't understand what you are saying. The electrical system in the 02 is coherent, in that any load on the system will affect the entire system. For example, if you turn on the headlamps and measure the voltage at the farthest reaches of the system (e.g., at the taillights), there will be a commensurate drop in voltage. The "green" wire only feeds the ignition circuit, but it is part of the system.
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