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About Chris_B

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  1. +1 Have you synced your carbs?
  2. Yes. It would provide a buffer to fulfill short periods of high demand by the stereo, without having to go to a larger battery.
  3. It turns out that all of my electrical system problem(s) were related to poor chassis ground. The voltage drop (about -1V) at the dizzy is probably not that unusual, considering the resistance from insertion and contact loss in the circuit between the battery and the dizzy. This didn't seem to affect my factory Bosch dizzy. The 123 specs say "voltage:4,0-15,0 Volts. I would say, not. The dizzy craps out when voltage drop below about ~12V. With the poor ground, my system voltage at the dizzy was falling below +12V with any major load on the system. After I fixed the chassis ground, the voltage at the dizzy was much more stable, but still dropped to +12.5V when I loaded up the system. Today, I installed a relay drawing power directly from the battery, using the "green" wire from the ignition switch as the trigger for the relay. As I had hoped, this provides ~+13.5% at the dizzy regardless of load on the system, so I am a happy camper.
  4. I don't understand what you are saying. The electrical system in the 02 is coherent, in that any load on the system will affect the entire system. For example, if you turn on the headlamps and measure the voltage at the farthest reaches of the system (e.g., at the taillights), there will be a commensurate drop in voltage. The "green" wire only feeds the ignition circuit, but it is part of the system.
  5. I have no clue how much current the 123 dizzy draws, but my guess is not much. What the blower has to do with it is adding load to the system. This isn't about noise, given that my voltmeter sees the voltage drop at the dizzy and substantiates the reading on the 123 dizzy dashboard.. I think it is about the accumulation of load on the system. When I turn the headlights on, not that much happens at the dizzy but when I add the blower motor to the mix (the best source of load besides the headlights), the reading on the dizzy dashboard sinks to ~+12.5V, and this is substantiated by my voltmeter when testing at the "green wire." I will do more testing (e.g., turn the blower motor on first and then the headlights). However, think this may be a moot point if I bypass the ignition switch as the source for power with a relay directly to the battery.
  6. The fix? After installing this cable in a convenient hole in the left inner front fender (not sure what its original purpose was), using a stout bolt and cleaning the paint from an area under the washer and a star washer under that and the whole thing torqued down to the hairy edge, I got a good clean system voltage reading between the ground point I have been using for the 123 dizzy (upper screw holding coil bracket in place) and the battery. This was about +13.5V (new alternator; seems a bit low to me). I also cleaned up the area under the upper bolt in the coil bracket. Now, with the headlights on the system maintains ~+13.5V as measured at the battery or the alternator +B terminal, and the ground point (coil bracket). The 123 dashboard supports this reading; however, when I turn the blower motor up to the highest setting, the 123 voltmeter shows the voltage dropping to ~12.5V, which is not reflected in the external voltmeter reading (between battery and coil bracket). Okay, so my first thought was that the 123 dashboard voltmeter was not accurate. But, just on a hunch I measured the voltage between the + input to the 123 (the green wire from the ignition switch) and the ground point. +12.5V- WTF? So, now I have concluded that (1) the 123 dashboard is pretty accurate, and (2) I am losing power between the battery and the green wire at the dizzy. This could be caused by a number of things, all relating to excessive resistance in the circuit somewhere (ignition switch is prime suspect). Rather than try and troubleshoot this I am going to install a relay connected directly to the battery and using the "green wire" as the switch for the relay. Any reason not to do this?
  7. A 1 farad cap would take care of that.
  8. That battery won't support that for long. You should look at your battery as for starting the car only. If your charging system is otherwise OK, it shouldn't be a problem. I could be wrong, but I don't think an FI system will take that much power. I have a ~450W (300W sub, 150W other) stereo (no FI) and am running an 80 amp alternator. Easily enough to handle this.
  9. It is a clip. I am sure when I pull it apart I will find rust/corrosion between the clip and the (painted surface of) the chassis.
  10. I couldn't figure out how to include a pic in a "start a new topic" post. What is up with that? Here is a pic of my poor chassis ground installation.
  11. As I said in a different post, all of my electrical problems appear to have been caused by a poor chassis ground. As it seems obvious now look at the cable I was relying on for the chassis ground, I need a different approach. I believe that hole and screw clip were used to anchor one side of the battery tray before I removed it. One approach would be to remove the paint around that hole and put a bolt through it with a star washer. But, is that flat cable big enough to provide an adequate chassis ground? Any suggestions appreciated.
  12. . +1, unless you are living in Antarctica.
  13. So I understood. I don't believe I did that, but who knows. I had to have the key on quite a bit for a lot of the testing I was doing. The strange thing is the motor was running while I was setting the timing, and I shut it off so I could tighten up the dizzy retaining bolt (key off during this process), went start the motor and nothing.
  14. Your wiring and bulb housing should be fine with the change, but better safe than sorry. You may want to do a test installation and check for excessive heat in the circuit.

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