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Chris_B

Kugelfischer
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    technology, cars included

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  1. It is available in digest form (one email per day, if there are posts). I can see how receiving each individual message would be less than useful. Also, there have been a small group of people in longstanding discussions. Coming in to the middle of one of those would be difficult, but the threads are available for search.
  2. Anything like that would be pretty much constrained to the discussion groups. Used to be a Yahoo group but recently moved to Groups.io.
  3. He actually has two styles of idle jets- one designed for low manifold vacuum at idle and one for high manifold vacuum. I believe the jets currently shown on the website are for high vacuum (e.g., > 10 Hg). Have you ever measured your vacuum at idle?
  4. You might want to check this out: http://Webstore.com/~DCOE_Tuner This gentleman (Keith Franck) has reengineered the calibrated parts in the idle and main circuits. Of particular interest in your situation with the idle jets is that he has designed an adjustable idle jet so that you can twiddle the airflow to multiple settings in the same jet. See the "W" series idle jet. These solved my idle/transition circuit problems in my 45 DCOEs
  5. Try some 50f9s. that is the next logical step down. With all due respect to other posters, do not drill out your jets.
  6. As has been said, readily available 1156 LED bulbs are substantially brighter than any incandescent bulb. A bonus is that the LED bulbs put off a specific color of light, which can help the appearance of faded 02 taillight lenses. Issues to consider: design of the LED bulb; some put off a substantial part of the light to the rear (top) of the bulb. Other designs have more light output to the sides. Obviously, this changes the way the taillight appears from the rear. The 02 taillight base clearly is designed to help focus the light to the rear and make the light "chamber" look more filled out, so having clean/refurbished taillight backs is important. Yet another issue is that the reduced current draw of the typical LED bulb may cause your turn signal circuit to quick flash, as if there is a blown bulb (just like it is supposed to). You can change your flasher to an LED tolerant flasher unit, or put a resistor in the circut to trick the factory circuit into believing that the LED bulb is an incandescent. Finally, many of these LED bulbs come from places where the dimensions of the bulb are not considered very carefully. For example, I have received bulbs where the base would not fit into the socket of 02 taillight backing plate. The most common problem is that the base of the bulb is too short to fit into the 02 socket, so the bulb will not mount because the bulb body hits the top of the socket preventing it from being pushed into the socket far enough to mount.. On the other end of the spectrum, some bulbs are so long the top of the buld hits the lens. Most sellers will provide dimensions so you can avoid this.
  7. So, what do you have now and why are you asking? Is there a problem with your current jetting? It is pretty much useless to ask what other people have because your situation is unique.
  8. Smoosh it on the track. Although, I have been tempted to put a few spots glue on mine on because it doesn't stay in place very well.
  9. Have you checked your motor and tranny mounts?
  10. Can you detect the vibration in the motor (or in the cabin) with the car not moving?
  11. Before I had my motor rebuilt, it did not have a noticeable vibration at 3K RPM, but after (new pistons, block bored out +1, new crank/rod bearings, etc,) it has a pronounced vibration at or around 3K RPM. My bad for not having it balanced. I guess it is somewhat comforting to hear that this is probably not some kind of defect or problem with the rebuild.
  12. Nope. Then again, I haven't done much investigation. I am about to start a 5 speed install project, so I will be able to check out the clutch assembly, but my guess is this is something internal to the motor. The motor runs well other than this annoying problem, so I am reluctant to tear it down just for this. I am wondering whether it is worthwhile to have the flywheel/clutch balanced (or whether it is even possible).
  13. Check out the MB Quart XT1-20 or 25 tweeters
  14. What do you mean by "tying the ends of the ballast resistor together." Can you elaborate on that?
  15. This symptom you are describing is a bit mysterious. Have you been able to check system voltage, at rest (motor not running) and with motor running?
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