Jump to content

Chris_B

Kugelfischer
  • Content Count

    1,569
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Community Reputation

89 Excellent

About Chris_B

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Interests Array

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. So, if you are converting from a hot water choke to an electric choke, you will need to set up a bypass for the plumbing to the choke. Meaning, you will have to connect the two water hoses running to the choke housing together to bypass the choke housing.
  2. Have to give props to IE for doing this. These grills are a bit art nouveau and may not appeal to everyone.
  3. This was my solution, with a Braille 17 battery.
  4. There is absolutely no reason to go with an electric fuel pump. I would say, go with an electric choke, just because it is so much more simple and won't be likely to spring a leak. You will have to determine how to wire the circuit up, but close proximity to the fuse block makes that fairly easy.
  5. Adjust it so that it runs well through the bottom of the transition (think 800 RPMs - 3K RPMs. Don't worry about how many turns you have going. Sometimes the setting for the best idle is not ideal for the range above that in the lower transition stage (1K-3K RPMs). If you find that range to be a bit rough at light throttle, you may have your idle mixture set a bit lean. I am guessing you don't have a wideband O2 sensor.
  6. It should come out when you remove the rivets. Is it possible that a PO glued it in? You might want to try a chisel under the edge to pop it loose. Heater Box Removal and Refurbishment.pdf
  7. Well, I'm stumped. When was the last time you checked it. Sync has a way of going out of, when you make other adjustments in and around the intake system.
  8. Looks just like mine. Are you testing only at idle, or at max motor shake?
  9. Just curious what kind of flow meter are you using?
  10. Excessive shaking or high, unadjustable idle is a typical symptom of unbalanced carbs. My AF meter jumps all over the place at idle, but usually within a range indicating (AFAIK) the approx. mixture (say, from 12.5 to 13.5, with occasional jumps above or below these levels).. I try to average these in my brain (not always easy) when adjusting my idle/transition mixture. There are so many factors involved between the carbs any your O2 sensor that I would be really surprise to see any installation with a rock solid AFR at idle. Maybe there is a perfect FI system out there somewhere... Soft mounts are notorious for leaking. I gave up on them the last time I remounted my carbs and haven't looks back. AFAIK, I have had no negative effects from nuking those babies. Most sources (always questionable) I have seen suggest that advance at 1K RPMs s/b ± 10° advance. I have no objective or even subjective evidence to prove this is right. It is what I am running now and seems to be OK.
  11. If this is a new build, it wouldn't be carbon buildup in that cylinder. The other possibilities are intake valve adjusted too tight, an intake leak or other cause of lean mixture in that cylinder (think idle mixture).
  12. Also, it isn't clear to me (perhaps because I am ignorant) how all of this discussion regarding ballast on the coil input has any relationship to the symptoms you described. The ballast setup is really intended to allow a coil to be run with a hotter input while the starter is cranking to account for the voltage sucked up by the starter. Running the coil with a hot input (beyond spec, without the resistor) might affect its longevity but I don't see how this would contribute to the problems you described. The only way a failing "condenser" (read, capacitor) can effect your ignition (e.g., running problems) is if it is shorted, which would cause an ignition no-op. You may well have a coil problem. Get it good and hot and measure the resistance again. So the motor ran OK before you did these adjustments?
  13. What is the theory behind a bad coil causing erratic dwell?
  14. Is the lean hole on part throttle acceleration or WOT (or both)? I am running the closed drain valves and I did not notice much of a difference after installation. But, I haven't tried different pump jet sizes because my lean hole is not huge. I can feel it at medium throttle acceleration, and see it an my AFM at even light throttle acceleration.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.