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Chris_B

Kugelfischer
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  1. Hans, what do you mean by this? Idle mixture? Hard to see what that has to do with his problem.
  2. There is a ground point under the trunk panels where the taillights are grounded. This doesn't look particularly robust to me. I installed my amps under my back seat and put a ring connector under one of the upper back seat lower mounting points (does that make sense?). Sorry, don't have a pic.
  3. More or less. There could be situations where the ambient temp is cool enough to allow the system to run at the thermostat temp (71 degrees). This is not good, if you believe the factory spec is 80 degrees (C, of course). The factory spec is designed to let your motor operate at optimum for a number of parameters (unless done purely for smog reduction purposes- who knows?). The thing I worry about the most with these lower temp thermostats is whether the oil is reaching the correct operating temp, which can have a significant affect on your motor's efficiency and wear/tear (friction and all that). Here is a great article on this. http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/#:~:text=The thermostat basically behaves like,and out of the engine
  4. The rocking can be a symptom of the carbs being out of sync in that RPM range.
  5. I should have explained. If your throttle plates are too far forward, they can draw fuel in from the first transition hole, which will cause the idle to not want to settle down. If you close your throttle plates at idle a bit, that might move your them enough to position them below the first transition hole sufficiently to resolve this problem. You really want your idle to be just a bit below 1K RPMs.
  6. I am not sure what "main to idle signal" is, because there is essentially no connection between the idle and main circuits other than possible overlap in the transition. This is a really common problem. You might want to try lowering your idle speed a bit. Also, carb to carb balance can have a big influence on this idle problem. At which RPMs did you balance your carbs?
  7. Phenolic. No doubt to keep the carbs from absorbing too much heat from the manifolds, and the spacer probably absorbs a certain amount of vibration, too. However, the carbs have to reach a certain temp before they work properly. The potential downside would be a scenario where the carbs get so hot that the fuel boils, you get vapor lock and all that. Not a problem where I live (central CA).
  8. Crank them down and they are no longer "soft" mounts. The purported purpose of using them is to help shield the carbs from engine vibration. This seems to defeat that purpose. And, in my experience they leak unless you crank them down so hard that they are no longer soft. A real conundrum, this.
  9. Bearing in mind that this stuff apparently is chrome, not anodized aluminum like the 02 trim. I would be surprised if any aftermarket supplier provides an anodized aluminum product. Nevertheless, a trim of the right size and shape might be OK if you do not value originality (which I don't, sometimes...).
  10. I have never had a set of soft mounts that didn't eventually leak. I moved to no mount/gaskets only a couple of years ago and have not observed any negative effects. I suppose this could be different with different motors/intake manifolds.
  11. This may be OBE, but fuel pressure has nothing to do with idle speed. Excessive fuel pressure, if it could overcome the needle valves in your carbs (if so, determined in part by float adjustment) would cause your float bowls to flood out and ultimately your motor to die as excess fuel flooded into your venturies and into your motor.
  12. I don't think any of these gas caps were chromed. Polished stainless steel.
  13. I suspect your plugs were fouled. This can happen if they dirty, gap too wide and then get soaked with fuel. Then they won't fire. Are you checking your plug gaps periodically?
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