Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'oil'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Categories

  • Technical Articles
    • Body and Interior
    • Brakes
    • Engine and Drivetrain
    • Electrical and Ignition
    • History and Reference
    • Racing and Safety
    • Suspension and Steering
  • News
    • Events
    • Racing
  • FAQ Use

Categories

  • BMW 2002 and other 2 door Sedans
  • BMW Nueu Klasse Sedans and Coupés
  • BMW 700

Categories

  • BMW 2002 and BMW Neue Klasse Colors

Categories

  • Standard and Optional
  • Aftermarket

Categories

  • BMW 2002 and BMW Neue Klasse Models

Categories

  • BMW 2002 and BMW Neue Klasse Registry

Categories

  • Repair Shops
  • Parts Vendors and Manufacturers

Forums

  • Discussions
    • BMW 2002 and other '02
    • BMW 2002ti and BMW 1600ti Owners Group
    • BMW 2002 Turbo Discussion
    • BMW Neue Klasse Discussion
    • BMW 1600GT Discussion
    • BMW 700 Discussion
    • BMW 2002 and Neue Klasse Events
    • Project Blogs
    • Project Blogs - Archive
    • FAQ Articles Construction Zone
  • Technical Resources
    • Technical Articles
    • Colors Database
    • Wheels Database
  • Classifieds
    • Seller/Buyer Feedback
    • Cars for Sale/Wanted
    • Parts For Sale
    • Parts Wanted
    • eBay
  • Off Topic
    • Site Problems, Suggestions, and Questions
    • Off-Topic
    • Test Forum
  • BayArea02's Discussion
  • Texas's Discussion
  • Australia Owners Club's Discussion
  • Chicago '02 Group's Discussion
  • Florida's Discussion
  • Georgia's Discussion
  • Mid-Atlantic's Discussion
  • Midwest's Discussion
  • New York Owners Group's Discussion
  • Nor'East 02ers's Discussion
  • Pacific Northwest's Discussion
  • Rivertown Gear Busters's Discussion
  • Rocky Mountain's Discussion
  • Sacramento's Discussion
  • SoCal 02's's Discussion
  • Canada's Discussion
  • BC/Lower Mainland Owners Group's Topics

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Calendars

  • Events
  • Races
  • BayArea02's Events
  • Texas's Events
  • Australia Owners Club's Events
  • Chicago '02 Group's Events
  • Florida's Events
  • Georgia's Events
  • Mid-Atlantic's Events
  • Midwest's Events
  • New York Owners Group's Events
  • Nor'East 02ers's Events
  • Pacific Northwest's Events
  • Rivertown Gear Busters's Events
  • Rocky Mountain's Rocky Events
  • Sacramento's Events
  • SoCal 02's's Events
  • Canada's Events
  • BC/Lower Mainland Owners Group's Events

Product Groups

  • Parts
    • Suspension
    • Engine and Drivetrain
  • Advertising
  • FAQ Accessories
  • Memberships

Categories

  • Drives
  • Racing
  • Shows and Gatherings
  • Technical Videos
  • Other
  • BC/Lower Mainland Owners Group's Videos

Categories

  • BMW '02s
  • BMW '02 Cabrio and Targa
  • BMW '02 Touring
  • BMW 2002 Turbo
  • BMW Neue Klasse
  • BMW 700
  • Other BMWs
  • Non BMWs

Categories

  • Repair Shops
  • Parts Vendors and Manufacturers

Categories

There are no results to display.

competitions

  • Best Photo from a Previous 2002 Related Shows
  • Photos from a Driving Event. NK, '02 Related
  • Car in Motion
  • Week 24
  • Week 25
  • Week 26
  • Week 27
  • Week 28
  • Week 29

Categories

  • BMW 02 Technical Manuals
  • BMW NK Technical Manuals
  • BMW 02 and NK General Knowledge
  • General Automotive Technical Books
  • General Automotive
  • General Interest

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 29 results

  1. Hey guys, Any clue whats going on here? Bought an IE Mechanical Advance Distributor new and just chucked it in. Literally had the motor going for 5 minutes and oil is dripping out of the air drain holes in the casting of the dizzy? I have a few photos below. Just looking at the build of it (average) can't quite see why this would be happening. Anyway any help would be highly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
  2. As recently determined, the PO of my car routed the valve cover ventilation to a catch can instead of back into the carb. I noticed that it's smoking a lot. Is that normal? Here's how it looks. It often smokes even more than that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQ3nq1W2-tg I cleaned out the catch can yesterday, and it still smokes. So I guess that smoke is coming from the engine. But... why would it smoke under the valve cover? Shouldn't that area be sealed, except for oil delivery? Are my valves not tight?
  3. 2k2tii

    oil pump

    Brand New OEM Part # 11411269549
  4. Don't want to make another big debate "which oil" thread, so I'll try and keep this very much to the point: Since I rebuilt my engine about 5 years ago I've been using Rotella 15W-40 oil due to the higher ZDDP content that it at least used to have. Since that time the brand has changed a little bit as there are now the T5 and T6 flavors and so on, but I wasn't able to easily find the ZDDP content of either on the basic spec sheets. I went ahead and put the T5 in last oil change anyway, but now I'm interested in other opinions if this is still a good oil to be running in the rebuilt M10, or if I need to consider something different for any particular reason. I generally like the Rotella option as it is widely available, a good mid-range, mid-weight that I believe works pretty well year-around for a moderate climate M10, and at least the previous reasonably high ZDDP for good wear protection. Just want to make sure that in these modern times this is still sound reasoning. Thanks!
  5. 2k2tii

    oil pan

    oil pan $50 + shipping retails for $320, see 4th picture
  6. Hi, everyone - I just wanted to share what looks like a good deal with all of you. I was looking to pick up oil and filter, and thought I'd check to see if I could get it all locally as cheaply as online. Turns out, AutoZone has a deal on Mobil1 stuff if you buy at least 5 quarts plus the filter. The deal goes on until September 21. All told, it brings the cost of my 6 quarts of M1 15W50 full synthetic and M1 filter from $67 down to $44. Not bad. The only potential problem is making sure they have enough of the weight you use, so you may have to go to the second or third closest store. You can use this link to see if they have it in your local store: http://www.autozone.com/deals/dealMaker/dealMaker.jsp?dealId=65780&showDealMaker=true And, no, I don't work for AutoZone.
  7. Ok, so I just pulled out a 72' tii that had been in storage for 10 years. It had more than a few mice living in it. I get it started and then immediately was gushing oil out of what I assume is the oil pressure sensor (it has an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in the center console) next to the distributor. There is a tube that has clearly been chewed threw by mice that the oil if coming from and the other end of the tube runs into over the the drivers side and back into the interior. My question is this. Do oil pressure gauges usually just run oil into the gauge in the dash, because that what seems to be happening. Is there a different/better oil pressure gauge I should install. I've attached photos of everything. Whats the quickest way to get this things to stop leaking so I can see what else is wrong with it. Thanks for your help!
  8. Newbie here... Looking for tips on fixing a hose break. Seems like a simple fix. Any thoughts on how to easily remove the broken hose ends? I'm thinking about slowly, carefully cutting them off with an exacto. Also...Would a local auto parts store carry this type of hose? I noticed that its stiffer than typical. -j
  9. I'm putting my automatic transmission/torque converter back together with the engine and I am wondering how much oil I should put into the torque converter and what type? Does the fluid from the transmission circulate to through the transmission?
  10. I have a 1973 2002. I have a recent slow oil leak showing on the ground, front of engine. Noticed unusual residue around the #2 spark plug. Could the plug be involved? (In front end photo its about two week's accumulation on the ground. I had driven the car, but was putting it back in same spot). Last photo is from underneath the engine. Thanks Randy
  11. Hi guys, Just completed a 5 speed conversion a week ago, and the box has quite abit of a whine when it is rising in revs through the gears? The box is an overdrive 245 and I used Redline MT90 Gearbox oil. Do you think a thicker oil would help this sound? The MT90 seemed quite thin. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated. Thanks for your time, Arlo.
  12. So I recently had my engine rebuilt, and I noticed the top stud on #2 on my exhaust manifold is weeping oil. After some research it seems as if the stud may not have been loctited properly into the head. I could drive the 40 mi up to my guy, but I worry about an engine fire due to oil dripping onto the exhaust. I figured I might try to just do it myself. So far I understand that I need to get a replacement 12mm copper nut for the job (11621744323) - can I just get this at the BMW parts department? A lot of articles noted I shouldn't reuse the gasket, but since I am only loctiting a single stud, I was hoping I could get away with this. Only 1,200 mi on the new engine. Would the process be something like: Remove copper nut Remove stud (possibly with the double 12mm nut trick) Remove valve cover and block the hole from dripping oil Clean the threads and stud hole with carb cleaner Blue Loctite threads and re-install the same stud (I have 242, but it looks like 243 has higher oil tolerance) Tighten the new copper nut down super dad strength snug with a box wrench Wait 24 hours for loctite to cure Thoughts?
  13. Hi Team Any recommendations on what type of gear oil to use for a 2002 steering box? I recently bought a second hand one which was shipped with no oil inside and I want to make sure I use the right one before installing it. Regards Kyri
  14. Hi, Something that has been at the back of mind has been the fill plug on my gearbox. There is nothing wrong with it except that I want to change it to the protruding hex head type (male version) as shown below. Main reason being it is tricky to get my ratchet to sit between the existing filler plug and the transmission wall of the car (limited room). My question - Anyone know where I can get my hands on one of these type of filler plugs? Did any of the other BMWs have it that I can hunt down? Any info is appreciated. Raj I want this:
  15. Hi, Something that has been at the back of mind has been the fill plug on my gearbox. There is nothing wrong with it except that I want to change it to the protruding hex head type (male version) as shown below. Main reason being it is tricky to get my ratchet to sit between the existing filler plug and the transmission wall of the car (limited room). My question - Anyone know where I can get my hands on one of these type of filler plugs? Did any of the other BMWs have it that I can hunt down? Any info is appreciated. Raj
  16. I have always wanted to 'update' my oil cap to include some sort of font like early Alfa Romeo engines. So my solution has been to create a set of Oil decals in (4) colors available for sale in the classifieds section: Decals have a UV coating & installation is simple if you make sure to prep your surface and center the decal. And here is a picture: And of course a brief info sheet:
  17. I have always wanted to 'update' my oil cap to include some sort of font like early Alfa Romeo engines. So my solution has been to create a set of Oil decals available in (4) colors: (Decals have a UV coating for durability) Price: Includes one of each color (4 total) $6 for a set of (4) decals PayPal: [email protected] I will confirm payment + shipping. Thanks, Mo Faraz
  18. For Sale: Oil Dipstick Guide Tube. This is the early type with the cast aluminum holder that bolts to the block. Guide tube only- The dipstick, gasket and bolts are NOT included. This item is NLA. $55 includes shipping via USPS priority mail.
  19. I recenty did a mild refresh of the tii, powdercoating the intake, valve cover, etc, and in the process replacing most of the gaskets, belts, and so on. Since putting it back together, I have noticed an oil leak that has been difficult to track. I have decided on a strategy, and please provide input if you think I am on the wrong track. 1. Start high, then go low. This leak is deceptive. It sort of looks like an oil pan leak, and it drips from both the front and the back. However, I did not remove the oil pan in the process other than the front few bolts that hold the lower cover. I think the drip is starting from up high. In any event, my strategy is that if I tackle the highest possibility, and the leak is gone, then Im done. If not, I can move lower. 2. Upper timing cover. In the process of the refresh, I removed the timing covers, belts, kfish, etc. I did not remove the head gasket, but in the process, the head gasket lost a bit of material, though it did not bend or crack. My feeling now is that perhaps I did not build up the material on the head gasket with the sealant, AND I may not have first tightened the bolts coming from the top of the cover down into the lower cover.... instead I may have tightened up the bolts going into the head first.... In any event, I think this would be the first item to tackle, as there's no massive process involved as there was in removing the lower cover ( crank pulley, kfish, belts, hold crankshaft in place, etc. etc.). If I can fix it here, it's just a matter of removing the upper cover. If not, ..... 3. Move down to lower timing cover. 4. Oil pan Guidance is welcomed....! Thanks, Andy74tii
  20. Hello FAQer's. I have been experiencing some problems with my freshly built engine. I have been problem solving with a friend for the past few weeks, but would like the input of those with experience in the area. Background: Full nut and bolt restoration '74 Block +4200470 E12 Head Engine was completely pulled apart, pressure tested, decked and all the rest of it. Over size 90mm pistons, 9.5:1 CR, 292 cam (reground), DCOE 40 webers Joe Gibbs Break In oil - 15w50 New Febi oil pump 3 core radiator from W&N All other parts new or rebuilt (dizzy hasn't been recurved) It is winter here now and I work in a garage several meters below the ground, its probably pretty constantly close to 12 degrees Celsius. First time I started the engine the oil filter seal popped. Figured it was the crappy filter. Mopped up the mess. Second time was shortly after the first, replaced the filter with a new Bosch unit. Filter popped again after 5 seconds of the engine turning over. On these first two occasions I used a good blip of throttle to get the engine to turn over. After many hours of research it seems this combined with the temperature was my problem. After reading many posts about people installing the piston/plunger on the oil pump incorrectly I assumed this was the problem. Pulled the sump to investigate, everything was installed correctly, checked the length of the spring, all good. Stuck on a cold weather high pressure Mann oil filter. Started the engine again the following week, incrementally adjusting the idle so the engine would start but not rev high to avoid high oil pressure. This worked, ran the engine for a couple of minutes, discovered a weeping T join on the carbs, turned the engine off to rectify the problem. Started engine again shortly after the previous time. Once the engine turned over the RPM shot up and the filter burst.................. Scratching my head..... Not sure why the revs shot up as I hadn't touched the throttle, only the idle. TODAY, I started the engine with an oil pressure gauge connected and ran the car for close to 20 min, until the temperature came up. The gauge was limited to 110psi. Had the car idling around 800 rpm +-40, ran pretty rough for the entire time After 5 min the pressure dropped to 90psi and still cold on the dashboard After around 10 min the temp came up to the bottom of the white on the dashboard and the pressure dropped down to around 70-90psi After 15 min or so, the temp came up half way (normal) and pressure dropped to around 40-50psi. after this I payed with the throttle, working the engine a little, the oil pressure would rise with rpm. The entire time the needle of the oil gauge was jumping around a fair bit. It seems these values are too high, aside from the cold, new engine/pump, what else could be contributing to the high pressure? VIDEO http://s199.photobucket.com/user/felix__666/media/VIDEO0001.mp4.html
  21. I want to install the factory sender and also a temp and press oil sender (both 1/8-27 NPT).... I would like something similar to the adapter PARKERPERFORMANCE used to have, any comments?
  22. For once we Canadians have an advantage. I just bought oil and additive from CanadianTire for an oil change. $17.95 for a 5L jug of 20/50 $19.95 for zinc additive = CDN$37.90 or US$28.00 for an oil change! So I bought a few extra jugs of oil for future use.
  23. So, I know that this post is "probably" going to poke the bear a little bit, which is not my intent. I'm really just sharing my experiences with some recent adjustments. Over the past few months, I've been looking for a highly recommended oil that I can run in my 2002 and in my 914. I wanted something that was going to be high in zinc for the older motor(s) but also work well with the flat tappets of the 914. After a lot of research I purchased a 12 pack of Brad Penn 20w50 partial synthetic racing oil. From the 914 point of view, it's a hands down winner for that type of motor. In the M10, I found a few things kind of interesting since the switch. Originally, I was running Mobile1 in the car. With the Brad Penn oil, I've noticed considerably less oil being used by the motor. Just to clarify, I would use maybe a 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart between changes with the Mobile1. With the new oil, less than an 1/8 of a quart so far and I've changed the oil twice. Starting the car in the morning is considerably smoother than with Moble1 as well. I know that the zinc coats the parts and adds protection, among a bunch of other things, but I wasn't expecting to hear such a big difference. I also notice that the car runs, idles and drives smoother as well. But here's the kicker, after 5 years of carefully accounting for my gas mileage, I was getting consistent 21.5 mpg with Mobile1 and I'm now getting 24.5 mpg. (I have an automatic and I really drive it like an old lady because I want to keep it forever without having to go through parts every other day) I know that conversations about oil can start passionate debate. I wasn't intending to do that here, I just wanted share my observations and maybe help someone else with some additional data.
  24. Okay so I got my engine in and after somehow letting the timing chain skip teeth and not knowing any better I bent 6 valves :/ Seems like I always learn things the hard way! hahaha so after I fixed my little 400 dollar mistake I put the Head on, triple checked that the cam and crank pulley TDC marks lined up perfectly torqued the head down and started her up. it runs great! cant wait to take it to full throttle!! anyways so I took it for a little drive and then returned to my home to look for any leaks. particularly the area where the lower and upper timing covers come together. so far so good. the only leak I can spot is coming from the top right cap nut on the valve cover! WEIRD!! Im guessing it just needs a valve cover gasket? has anyone heard of such a leak? could the valve cover be warped somehow? TIA for you wisdom and thoughts P.S. pictures and running video to come
  25. I have an oil leak coming from my distributor body. it is dripping out of the vent holes in the lower surface of the main body. I do not have any leaks coming from the housing bolted to the block. I also replaced the o-ring on the distributor neck and have verified no leaks. Pulled the unit and the LOWER seal at the driven gear is very loose/worn. Looking for a source to buy a new seal, but all I have seen so far is a full Bosch rebuild kit (pn 1237010007). Any comments/advice on replacing just that lower seal? BTW... this is an electronic ignition dist from an E21. Runs real well, but the oil drips right onto the header


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.