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Mike Self

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Mike Self last won the day on July 27

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About Mike Self

  • Birthday January 29

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    Beavercreek OH

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  1. If you have a late roundie (modell 71) or a squarelight, both indents you feel are the B pillar attachment points. On roundies, the lower one was covered with upholstery, but on squarelights, there was a threaded plastic plug that filled the hole. They were both there to allow for different height drivers/passengers. At 5' 11" I found the lower mounting hole worked better for me as the shoulder harness went over my shoulder rather than against my neck, so I punched out the lower hole on my '73 and found some plastic plugs to cover the now-unused upper hole. mike
  2. Look at it this way: the factory thought that bumping the horsepower from 85 (on the 1600) to 130 (tii) necessitated stronger front struts and boxed rear suspension arms--and auto manufacturers aren't known for adding unnecessary cost to their products. You're proposing to go from 100 (stock carbureted 2002) to 190 hp (S14). Regardless of what you think you're gonna do, you're gonna use that extra 90 hp. That should answer the question... mike
  3. and was subsequently disqualified for no hood. But he sure stuck the landing! mike
  4. Looks like a recent import from Italy--that MI plate may indicate Milano--and it has the bi-colored Italian front turn signals. And those wheels look like steel Alpinas with BMW motorsport center caps... The sticker on the rear body panel says "Team GS Sport" for what that's worth. Nice car... mike
  5. That's a common swap, and no one has reported that an E21 radiator--brass or aluminum--didn't fit. Did you measure the height of an OEM '02 radiator and then the E21? That should tell the story. It doesn't look like the tranny cooler housing sits any lower than the radiator's lower tank so it should be the same height as a manual trans E21 radiator. mike
  6. Easy way to tell if your clutch is on its way out (the door to the scrap pile): put the car in 4th or 5th gear with it stopped, engine running. Without touching the gas, let the clutch out normally. If the engine immediately stalls, the clutch is (probably) OK. If the engine bogs down (or worse, continues to run!) then the clutch is slipping. It could be slipping because it's worn out it has oil on it--leaking crankshaft main seal or tranny input shaft seal the pressure plate has lost its tension from heat, age or wear the hydraulic system isn't allowing the throwout bearing to fully disengage, causing the pressure plate to stand slightly away from the clutch disk. mike
  7. There's a tiny little pin & spring inside the hazard switch that must catch against a protrusion in the housing case for the button to stay in the "on" position when pushed. When the spring gets tired, it won't hold the pin in place and what you have, happens. I recently did a column on tracking down a similar problem in a friend's hazard flasher; drop me a PM and I'll send you a copy. While you can shim the button with a toothpick, a proper repair is so much more elegant! mike
  8. So the Baurs didn't use the same stamped metal bridge piece and extra lug nut to hold the spare tire in position, like the standard bodies? Is the wheel you seek the "soup plate" alloy wheel that was optional on squarlights, or an E30 bottlecap? mike
  9. If you're not fussy about colors and can find an E21 parts car, they have a plethora of those pushbutton switches: yellow, purple, green etc. Since my car has a Frigiking and thus no dummy switch, I took a different route and used a three- position rocker switch mounted in the tunnel housing cover that's used with the Frigiking console. The switch is wired so that when centered it's off; in one direction the driving lights come on with the high beams and in the other, they come on by themselves. Easy to wire that way, and it gives you a set of lights that will function as headlights if the headlights themselves suddenly quit working. You can also use a three position paddle switch vs the rocker switch if you wish. mike
  10. I saw this car and its restomod twin at the famous Colorado CCA Ofest in the year 2002--the year that 104 '02s showed up and the first 100 received the little white commemorative badge that you occasionally see at '02 events even today. If you look at the Werkshop plate in the pictures, it's #1--the first car the Werkshop did, IIRC. It was a $40,000+ restoration back in 2002 (when factory front fenders were $90 and most beltline trim bits were $20-30 each). But Steve is correct in that the restoration is to a much higher standard than the factory's production cars--it would be more like what the factory would have prepared to put on their stand at a major auto show. Just too pretty to drive (witness the miles since it was done 18 years ago). IMHO an '02 is meant to be driven, not trailered to events--and driven on back roads around curves; that's an '02's beauty. This one is so nice I'd be afraid to drive it. Wonder what the asking price is... mike
  11. Not recommended for anywhere in a car, especially in the floor between your legs 😄...Think Sydney tii means Dynamat. Sorry, just couldn't resist! And if you get items shipped in Styrofoam peanuts, bag 'em up and stuff tht under the back seats. Very effective sound insulation and the price is right... mike
  12. Another thing to check--from your picture it appears that the three prong plug on the back side of the alternator is a little loose in its socket. There's supposed to be a little wire bail that holds it in place--often missing--and it appears yours is. If you don't have a bail, just make sure that plug is (1) clean and (2) firmly seated in its socket. Same with the plug on the voltage regulator. Since it isn't subject to engine vibration like the alternator, there's no bail, but it can work loose. Then put a bail on your shopping list. There are two little clips, held with screws that the bail fits into; if they're missing, you'll need them too. mike PS--also make sure that both negative and positive battery terminals are clean and tight, and the heavy wire held to the + terminal with a 6mm bolt is firmly attached. That wire feeds almost every circuit on the car except the starter, and if loose/corroded can affect the entire electrical system.
  13. Now you really don't have an excuse to start planning for next year's Mid America and Vintage! Aren't 02 owners a great bunch? mike
  14. Good to know, gentlemen. Thanks for your input. I've seen enough '02 sans screws to think that perhaps they were omitted on later cars, but apparently what I was seeing were cars with replacement fenders and lazy body shops. BTW, the original front fenders on my '69 had started to bubble along the trailing edges by late 1971/early 1972...It's on its third set, but they've been on the car since 1986 or so and have never rusted--because I doused that trailing edge with anti rust paint before installing the fenders, and didn't fill the seam with schutz like the factory did. mike
  15. If you're gonna remove that thick tar sheet from the floorpan, be prepared to either go through a lot of scraping and swearing, or get some dry ice. You'll still scrape and swear, but just not as much. Should be lots of discussion in the archives on how to do this, but dry ice seems to be the most popular way. cheers mike
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