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Mike Self

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Mike Self last won the day on May 4

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About Mike Self

  • Birthday January 29

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    Beavercreek OH

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  1. Fun Hagerty story about the annual British House of Lords vs House of Commons races at Brands Hatch; early races used 2002s. https://www.hagerty.com/media/motorsports/crash-bang-wallop-when-britains-politicians-settled-differences-in-the-lords-v-commons-car-races/ Enjoy mike
  2. Y'all must have shorter parking blocks in CA than back East. Those spoilers would be toast in most of our parking lots--between potholes, steep driveways and tall parking blocks. mike
  3. If the speedo is ticking and the odometer isn't working, the ticking you hear is a odometer drive gear that's probably loose on its shaft (where it should be fixed) and making contact with another gear that's turning properly. If you like to tinker, you can take the speedometer head out of the cluster (check archives for how to if you've not done it before) and find the loose gear. The proper fix is to replace the gear as it's probably cracked or even broken. Got to odometergears.com to buy an improved gear that won't crack, and instructions on how to install. Or you can send your speedometer assy to one of several places who can rebuild/repair it (again, check archives for specific places.) mike
  4. Perhaps too simplistic, and I may be exhibiting my lack of knowledge on sidedraft Webers, but don't they have an accelerator pump? If there's a hesitation going from idle circuit to mains circuit as Sam describes and the ratio drops to a very lean situation, could there be a bad accelerator pump diaphragm or clogged pump jet? The point of an accelerator pump is to provide an extra squirt of fuel under sudden-ish acceleration; what if it's not? mike
  5. I believe the round canister-style relay in your photo post-dates your car. And... these were often used for auxiliary lighting, Steve, you're correct on the round relay as being usable for factory accessory fog lights. In fact, the early cars (like my '69) have an unused screw hole adjacent to the horn relay, with just the right spacing for another relay identical to the horn's. And it's for fog lights. That's how I wired my '69's driving lights back in 1969, but used a Bosch overdrive relay from a Volvo P-1800--Identical to the horn relay but rated for 20 amps. I've been looking for a spare ever since. mike
  6. Anywhere you see a fuel line with a woven cloth cover, replace. That's the OEM stuff, and it can develop cracks and pinholes that are hidden by the cloth. And don't forget the small piece that connects the fuel pickup/sender unit in the gas tank with the plastic fuel line up under the trunk floor, right side. I'll bet it's original. There's also a plastic ferrule that slips over the pickup nipple that makes the 8mm hose fit properly. Make sure you use it, and if it's missing, you can cut a 5-6 mm piece off the end of the semi-rigid plastic fuel line to use as a ferrule. Toss the Solex. That 2 barrel wasn't one of their better designs. Besides the accelerator pump the secondary barrel is opened by vacuum, and if the diaphragm is ruptured, you have a very small one barrel carb. Not much good for acceleration. I'd suggest getting a manual choke 32/36 Weber (32/36 DGV). A manual choke always works; problems are operator error. Lotsa writeups on how to install a manual choke WRT plugging the water choke lines and rigging up the manual choke cable. The license plate light covers have been NLA for some years and were fragile when new. Finding a new one now is a major expense, although I seem to recall someone is reproducing 'em--or are in imminent danger of doing so. A friend found some very similar (but not identical) ones on the internet for $8-10 each, with LED bulbs, so check that out. And before I forget--welcome to the '02 fraternity/sorority. Lotsa good advice--and friendly folks--on the FAQ, so take advantage of the archives and ask away if the archives don't provide the answers. cheers mike
  7. If E36 inside mirrors snap into a hole in the windshield header like those on an '02, grab it as it'll be wider and give you a better view to the rear. And grab the third brake light to better defend yourself from big SUVs and pickup trucks. Also--I have a complete K&N air filter setup, including the aluminum mounting piece--for an M-42 motor that I removed from by E30 318is when I went back to a stock setup. PM me if you're interested. mike
  8. That's a condenser that a PO added to prevent radio interference on the radio's AM band--likely all that was in a '67. You also commonly find one on the generator/alternator, although I can't tell you where it should be connected on the alternator or generator. In fact, I'd like to know as my AM band is almost unusable due to alternator noise... The large aluminum can in one of your pictures is the relay for the horn. And those other condensers in the same picture are also for radio noise suppression. The under-dash switches? The red one is your emergency flasher switch, the green one, I've never seen before, and the two little ones were for something a PO added. Only the emergency flasher switch would be factory, and it would have either been mounted on a little auxiliary switch panel under the steering column on cars with unpadded columns, or atop the dash to the left of the instrument binnacle on later cars, up until the modell 71's came out in mid-1971. mike
  9. Sigh....I missed out on a similar set back around 1976 or so--on a burned-out 2002 in a nearby junkyard--for $25/each! Didn't have the money with me and when I came back two days later, they were gone... The ones that got away... mike
  10. IIRC...'cause it's been awhile, the heavy wire that's attached to the + terminal on the battery with a 6mm bolt is the feed to the whole electrical system, save the starter motor's (not the solenoid--the motor itself) feed. It directly feeds those circuits that are hot all the time: parking/tail/license plate lights, emergency flashers, interior courtesy light etc and the fuses that protect those circuits. It eventually runs to the ignition switch. From the ignition switch there's another heavy wire that feeds the circuits that are switched and only are live when the ignition is on--some (heater blower, headlights, wipers etc) are fused, and a few aren't (starter solenoid). If everything is dead--fused and un-fused, switched and not switched--but you can jump the starter by connecting the starter's battery cable to the solenoid terminal, that means the battery and its cables are OK. But since a great deal depends on that feed wire that's bolted to the + battery terminal, I'd take a closer look at that--perhaps a continuity test just to make sure there isn't an internal break somewhere. mike
  11. When I did this to accommodate my 32/36 carb--which also needed some enlarging to flow properly--I lightly sprinkled oil on a shop rag until it was thoroughly damp, and poked it down the manifold opening. When I was finished with the Dremel, I carefully pulled the rag out, with the aluminum shavings stuck to the oily rag. A quick swipe with a clean rag to get the last little bits, and I was done. That was in 1981, so I must have gotten 'em all... +1 on the Phenolic spacer--one should be easy to find--you could once get 'em at your local Ford dealer as Pintos used a Holley Weber that was pretty much identical to the 32/36; jets interchanged too. mike
  12. Some years ago I had a Renault engine with a piston whose ring lands looked exactly like yours--except no pieces broke off the top ring and made its way into the combustion chamber. The ring just kept flopping back and forth until it was nearly worn to a point at the gap. Amazingly, that cylinder's compression was only a few lbs lower than the other three, and there was no damage to the head at all. And it didn't burn much oil, either--4 ring pistons and the oil control ring was undamaged. If you're gonna keep the car--and if the engine room's cleanliness is any indication, it's a nice one--dive head-first into that rabbit hole and do the engine correctly--and it'll be good for another 200k miles. mike
  13. Those side seals were also being reproduced by La Jolla Independent (Carl Nelson) out in CA. Think he still has 'em. His are much better made than the OEM ones. Mine still look good after being on the car since 1991... mike
  14. Anyone know of a US distributor for the brand--and Nick, do they make 'em in a 195/65 x 14 or 205/60 x 14 for an E30? My 318is is about ready for some new shoes... mike
  15. Hey--if Vern (and Andrew) likes 'em, then they're good! mike
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