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Mike Self

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Mike Self last won the day on July 14

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About Mike Self

  • Birthday January 29

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    Beavercreek OH

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  1. For rust removal on large bits--like hoods and trunk lids, my friend Dene bought a cheap rigid plastic kiddy pool; worked like a charm! mike
  2. If you want a stock diameter sway bar, PM me. I have one that's yours for the postage. You get to repaint it and provide the end links. But the price is right! And if you're referring to that metal box with brake lines running into it near the M/C, that's not a proportioning valve. As Stevenc22 said, that's a pressure differential sensor (on '76 cars only) that illuminates your brake warning light on the dash if the pressure on one side of the dual circuit is different from the other, which would indicate a leak. mike
  3. No dumb questions on the FAQ (at least, very few 😉). Just a good place to learn about 2002s... mike
  4. Yep--VDO oil pressure sender unit--one terminal goes to the gauge while the other one operates the oil pressure warning light. On the VDO sender, the warning light comes on at 14.7 psi (1 atmos) vs the factory sender of 7 psi (.5 atmos). mike
  5. Those are Cinturatos--Pirelli's answer to the Michelin X/XAS. While Michelin invented the radial tire back in 1947, using steel belts, Pirelli introduced the Cinturato a year or so later, using textile belts--possibly to get around Michelin patents. Michelin's first tires with steel in the carcasses were invented for the Paris Metro in 1938--why Paris subways are so quiet--they ride on rubber tires! mike
  6. There are two regulators--a left and a right--for 2002s but I don't think you can install a left side one in a right door or vice versa. It sounds as if the glass is hanging up in its guides as you try to raise it. If there's too much space between the glass and its front and rear guides, it'll get cocked in its tracks and wedge as you try rolling it up. When you then lower it, it "uncocks" and goes back down without a whimper. You need to make sure both the front track (the felt inside the vent window's trailing edge) and the rear track that holds the rollers on the back edge of the glass retaining bracket (that fastens to the regulator) are parallel to each other from bottom to top vertically and horizontally. If either are not, then the glass will bind as you try to raise it. Finally (and perhaps you should check this first) there's a stop on the window that's adjustable--a little bracket sticking out of that retaining bracket that the glass's fastened to--that will keep the glass from going up too far and hitting the rain gutter. That may be installed wrong, or is hitting something else inside the door and jamming the mechanism. I've had glass in and out many times, including populating a bare door shell with all its new innards--and haven't run into the problem you're describing, so there's something a little strange that's out of kilter. mike
  7. Presume you have the pump back near the tank, and not up in the engine compartment. While mechanical pumps like to suck; electric pumps work better when they're pushing--why EFI cars have the pump either in the tank itself or very close by. So if your pump isn't back near the tank, moving it will probably help. Unless there's a leak somewhere. mike
  8. IIRC on 1600s, radials were optional; they were standard on 2002s, at least for the US market. I ordered my '69 in January 1969, and specified Michelin XAS tires (a $59 option over the Conti radials). Car arrived in May due to an east coast dock strike, and the Michelins were all present and accounted for when I took delivery. So it appears that Michelin radials were one of a few options (as opposed to the "non-optional options" that Hoffman equipped all his US 2002s with) available, along with a sunroof. If you didn't check the box for Michelins, you got Continentals, but they didn't look like Slavs. Just a standard tread pattern. I remember those zig-zag tread pattern Contis; I think they came out before the Pirelli CN36s, as Pirelli's radial in 1969 was the Cinturato. mike
  9. Hi Mike!

     

    I am a new Member from Austria and I have a problem with my ignition lock. Can you send me your instruction for the removal of the anti repeat mechanism?

    My mail is: jneunteufel@gmx.at

     

    Would be great!

    Thanks,

    Johannes

  10. At the risk of piling on, a voltmeter is far preferable to an ammeter--it gives more useful information and is much easier to install. mike PS--John76--is your oil pressure gauge mechanical or electric? If the latter, I've never seen one with a near 360 degree needle swing.
  11. Esty, if you're still stuck, I just went through this when I replaced the felt U channel on the vent window that guides the forward edge of the up-and-down window glass--and did a column on it. You don't have to remove the vent window frame to R&R the main window glass. PM me and I'll send you the column. mike
  12. The US spec pre-modell 71 cars (166-167XXXX VINs) had consoles a bit different from what JMR posted. The sides were pretty much the same, but the cross piece was up at the top of the opening and nearly flush with the sides, so that its top snuggled up against the underside of the dash (which of course didn't have the chrome trim. On the early cars (at least through Feb '69) the cross piece was thick fiberboard covered with vinyl. Sometime afterwards, that was changed to a piece of molded plastic. On both crosspieces, the ashtray was centered on the crosspiece, but no switches, pushbuttons etc--just the ashtray. The emergency flasher shown in the picture above was moved to the left side of the instrument binnacle as that little switch panel wouldn't work with the Federally mandated cushion on the underside of the steering column housing. Radios were generally hung under the crosspiece, with either the speaker grille covering the entire storage cubby, or moved back in the cubby to provide some storage space. It really depended on the dealer or owner how it was installed. The shift boot is round and clips over a raised ring that's welded to the tunnel housing. mike
  13. +1. You should be able to skinny down the plastic trim at the spots where the clips would go--using the suggested razor blade--and pop the clip over the trim. Experiment with a scrap piece of plastic trim to figure out how to do it...you want to make sure the plastic trim's cross section matches the aluminum clips; plastic is easier to cut/shape than aluminum. And given the price of those little clips, you don't want to booger one up. mike
  14. Years ago I had a friend who worked the counter at our local BAP-GEON store; when annual inventory came around and they had to pay inventory tax on the store's contents, he'd snag all the parts being thrown out for French cars, knowing I had a Renault. I still have a box of NOS starter solenoids, Bendix drives etc for Citroen DS19s, Simca Arondes, Peugeot 403/404s, Dauphines, etc....hate to throw away perfectly good new parts... mike
  15. Another option that will work well with your 284 cam and obviate the need to synchronize those dual carbs: a single sidedraft Weber or Solex--presuming you can find a Lynx or similar single sidedraft manifold. Larger throats than even a 38/38 downdraft, and no problems with clearance on the standard brake booster. mike
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