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jturner

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About jturner

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  1. He's the best. Plus it makes a good backdrop...
  2. Just an update for posterity. I was able to get the broken stud & extractor out in-situ, then installed a time-sert. The magic combo for me was a pointed carbide dental burr to grind away some of the center, then LH drill bits to back it all out. And lots of focus to keep everything straight. It wasn't fast or fun, and if I didn't have a rally in a few days I would've taken the opportunity to learn how to remove the head. I couldn't risk it in this case.
  3. Jesus, haha. I rejected 3 carbs before I was happy with my pair, and that was just for progression hole issues that were obvious out of the box. It made me really glad I'd bought new and could ask for replacements.
  4. A new-ish Ireland DCOE manifold. I ended up going with another intake. The first of these that I bought from IE had alignment issues, but this one is spot on. I test fit it on my engine, but didn't run it. Doesn't come with gaskets or nuts, wysiwyg. $120 shipping in US. I'll remove the studs before shipping to make sure nothing gets tweaked.
  5. This guy must own his property. For context, theres a meal delivery startup directly next door that's raised $50M in funding. Light industrial shops were probably priced out of the city a long time ago. The one you're thinking of is a "big-sert" (apparently) and it's 10mm/8mm. It's meant for threads that were previously heli-coiled or enlarged. I got the standard version that's just a little bigger than the existing bore.
  6. Im using 55F8. I've got it idling around 900-1000 rpm now that the throttle plate issue sorted itself out. For me balancing the carbs and setting idle are the same operation. I've never gotten a smooth idle without getting the balance nailed. Then again I don't have the skill to tune by ear. On a test drive there were some lean spikes on the air/fuel gauge at abrupt throttle changes, but for the most part its 12.0-14.0 all the way to WOT. No dead spots, pulls like a train. I'm sure once I've done a long run I'll notice some issues, but it's better than I expected for a first pass.
  7. I can't half ass anything... ordered the time-serts. This is an expensive screw up. The last surviving machine shop in SF (afaik) is a one-man show, and theres no way to reach him or schedule his time. You have to show up on a warm day (so his door is unlocked and open for ventilation), and hope he's feeling generous. He's booked months out repairing giant pulleys, etc for all the old elevators in the city.
  8. Does using a helicoil now bar me from adding a timesert in the future? Seems like the sleeve would need a larger hole anyways. I'm not super worried about the head from a value standpoint, as long as the repair works. This car ain't that nice
  9. Well I bought enough dental tools to do a couple root canals, so maybe I can make my money back that way...
  10. I appreciate the the vote of confidence @2002Scoob. Unfortunately one week really means I have next Saturday and Sunday (my shop isn't at home). I won't have access to a machine shop on the weekend (theres only one in this city) or any way to get parts if anything breaks. And you know how these last-minute scrambles go... I bit off more than I can chew, so I've also got other issues to deal with next weekend already... like a mostly-new brake system that will not fricken bleed. But I'm with you on fixing it instead of ignoring it... just the thought of bolting it back together like this was bugging me. So I bought a right-angle drill, a right-angle dremel, and $150 worth of carbide dental burrs, left hand drill bits, coarse grinding stones, etc etc. This stud is coming out. I'm lucky it's a lower hole and the result doesn't need to seal. I can heli-coil or enlarge to M10 if things go sideways.
  11. @Simeon That's what I was afraid of. I JUST dialed in the sidedrafts, these studs are the last (planned) engine work I was gonna do until my bottom end gave up. I have a rally in a week so the head is definitely not coming off right now. It's a stock manifold, so it's not-not rigid. Maybe theres a sealing compound that would help...
  12. Trying to replace all the exhaust manifold studs (since one was leaking). The bottom stud on cylinder #4 (the hardest one to get to) snapped below flush, leaving some very stuck stud inside and no way to grab it. I went at it with a left-handed bit + fluted extractor with a lot of body contortion. Well, the extractor snapped, ALSO below flush so I can't remove it either. Will the other studs seal a stock manifold well enough if I leave this broken one as is? Any other options?
  13. If nothing else, they're the best carbs I could find. The throttle plates cross the progression holes at exactly the same time up and down. I had to send back a few carbs where that wasn't the case. I'm gonna use the dual rod setup I have, at least to start. I can balance them just the same using the idle speed screws, its maybe more prone to fall out of tune. Unless I'm missing the point of that linkage. Edit: and you're right, after putting them back on the manometer, my new air bypass settings are very small. I was compensating for cyl #2.
  14. Not to spam the board with my issues... but UPDATE: I was revving the carbs a little forcefully (I may have been frustrated), and something gave way on the leaking carb, and the car settled into a 900RPM idle. And the pump jet leak stopped. I think there was (as suggested by pretty much everyone here) some obstruction to the left carb throttle plate fully closing, probably in cyl #2. I'm still nowhere near the ideal throttle plate position for transition, but one thing at a time...
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