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jturner

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About jturner

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  1. Does anyone have a time machine? I'd like to go back and kill myself right before I start this thread.
  2. The wheels are free at this price (I run this exact tire)...
  3. Mine does the same thing. Since I'm running a solid linkage and replaced all the loose rod joints with heims, the pedal vibrates with the engine when I remove my foot. No matter how I adjusted it, the spring return would push the bearing onto that rear bracket at rest. I added a strip of thick stick-on felt to that metal bracket behind the bearing. The bearing still rests there when I'm off the pedal, but it doesn't click or vibrate now.
  4. I just went through this... it took almost an entire day of holding a dremel (with right angle attachment) and a right angle drill in just the right spot to get ONE stud out. I wouldn't want to do it twice. I used dental burrs, then two sizes of (expensive USA carbide) LH drill bits and it backed out with the second one. Unless you have a deadline that keeps you from removing the head I wouldn't recommend it...
  5. Are you replying to me? I got my money back, the topic is resolved. I want to reiterate that I waited 4 months before even lightly pressuring this guy, and the only updates I got were lies that the wheels had shipped. Then he stopped replying completely. I'm not sure that waiting one month qualifies as "patient" in context. Be careful out there. Don't wire strangers money.
  6. He's the best. Plus it makes a good backdrop...
  7. Just an update for posterity. I was able to get the broken stud & extractor out in-situ, then installed a time-sert. The magic combo for me was a pointed carbide dental burr to grind away some of the center, then LH drill bits to back it all out. And lots of focus to keep everything straight. It wasn't fast or fun, and if I didn't have a rally in a few days I would've taken the opportunity to learn how to remove the head. I couldn't risk it in this case.
  8. Jesus, haha. I rejected 3 carbs before I was happy with my pair, and that was just for progression hole issues that were obvious out of the box. It made me really glad I'd bought new and could ask for replacements.
  9. A new-ish Ireland DCOE manifold. I ended up going with another intake. The first of these that I bought from IE had alignment issues, but this one is spot on. I test fit it on my engine, but didn't run it. Doesn't come with gaskets or nuts, wysiwyg. $120 shipping in US. I'll remove the studs before shipping to make sure nothing gets tweaked.
  10. This guy must own his property. For context, theres a meal delivery startup directly next door that's raised $50M in funding. Light industrial shops were probably priced out of the city a long time ago. The one you're thinking of is a "big-sert" (apparently) and it's 10mm/8mm. It's meant for threads that were previously heli-coiled or enlarged. I got the standard version that's just a little bigger than the existing bore.
  11. Im using 55F8. I've got it idling around 900-1000 rpm now that the throttle plate issue sorted itself out. For me balancing the carbs and setting idle are the same operation. I've never gotten a smooth idle without getting the balance nailed. Then again I don't have the skill to tune by ear. On a test drive there were some lean spikes on the air/fuel gauge at abrupt throttle changes, but for the most part its 12.0-14.0 all the way to WOT. No dead spots, pulls like a train. I'm sure once I've done a long run I'll notice some issues, but it's better than I expected for a first pass.
  12. I can't half ass anything... ordered the time-serts. This is an expensive screw up. The last surviving machine shop in SF (afaik) is a one-man show, and theres no way to reach him or schedule his time. You have to show up on a warm day (so his door is unlocked and open for ventilation), and hope he's feeling generous. He's booked months out repairing giant pulleys, etc for all the old elevators in the city.


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