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About Sahara

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  1. The current carb setup in my car is a manual choke Weber 32/36 breathing through the stock air cleaner that somebody widened with tin snips. While this is a good setup for maintaining originality it's a little slapdash overall and probably not the best. I really like the look of the ITG air filter as employed in @c.d.iesel's motor. Obviously to swap over to this I'll need the carb and the baseplate but is there anything else, like the crankcase breather, that will have to be modified? ETA: It looks like for the breather I'll just need a short little filter instead of the tube that runs into the bottom of the current air cleaner. A lot of the ITG 32/36 baseplates on eBay say they don't accommodate a manual choke, are there any that do? Also, I've got foam on the inside of my hood as noise dampener. The top of the present air cleaner touches the foam, which is no problem, but this new air cleaner will also touch the foam. Do you think it would be prudent to trim the foam back so as not to restrict downward airflow? I assume the ITG mostly breathes through the top.
  2. Interesting. I definitely wasn't going to let them work on the car, I just wanted a quick diagnosis that my specialist mechanic was unable to provide late on a friday. I do agree with them that it is the brakes, on the grounds that I can change the pitch and intensity of the sound with the break pedal and was able to stop the sound (for about 30 minutes) by giving the brakes a quick spray with Brakleen.
  3. Resurrecting this thread to report back: mechanic replaced alternator bushings, made noise much quieter but did not eliminate it. They had me pick up the car, assuming my complaint was only about the alternator belt noise, which had apparently been masking squeal from the front brakes. After discovering the other noise I brought it to a shop that was open and could inspect it same day (not a BMW specific shop so I'm dubious about this diagnosis) and they said I need brakes and that the noise when braking and intermittently when driving is from the 'squeal indicator' on the pads/rotors (not sure if it's on one, the other, or both). My question to you guys: does the '02 have 'squeal indicators'? I'm not very experienced with vintage cars and I have never heard about this before but it would make sense. Also, how do I tell if I have E21 hubs? A lot of parts on this car are from an E21 (engine, trans, seats) but I'm not sure if the hubs also came off that donor car.
  4. Then why does it never make the noise in reverse? Low engine speed?
  5. The shop has rendered a verdict. They say loose alternator mounts allowing the belt to slip. In their view this is why the noise happens when first setting off and goes away when the battery is recharged and the load on the alternator decreases. My only issue with this is that the noise never happened in reverse. Does the alternator behave differently in reverse? Or is it just that the car never picks up enough speed? I’m somewhat dubious.
  6. I've examined the brakes and front suspension and everything looks okay. I've done what wheel bearing tests I can without jacking up the car (don't have time today) and they seem alright. I'm thinking it might be center support bearing on the driveshaft. The symptoms are exactly what @mike describes in this thread: If that's the case I need to determine what part to order, as I have the Aardvarc racing five speed swap. Would I get a standard bearing or do I need some special type?
  7. This started happening yesterday. After car has been sitting for more than say 20 minutes it will squeal for the first few minutes of driving from what sounds like the left front of the car but it may be coming from the front of the car in general. It does not happen in reverse but as soon as the car begins to move forward it will make the noise and if the car has been sitting overnight the noise can be very loud and unpleasant. I don't think it ever goes away but it dies down to a very faint rhythmic squeak that is hard to hear over the engine and wind noise. I know it is not a belt as the noise is not RPM dependent and only occurs when the car is moving. I also don't think it's bad brakes as the noise happens regardless of the brakes being applied.
  8. Out for a drive during a brief break in the weather here, going 35 in a 35. I’m heading through a T intersection and have the right of way when a Subaru station wagon decides to pull out into the road with no possible hope of making it into its lane without hitting me. I suspect the driver failed to look both ways. By the time I braked I was maybe two car lengths away from t-boning this guy. I did brake though, and turned so as to miss the other car, getting pretty close to full lock. I didn’t hit the guy, nobody got hurt, and my ‘02 didn’t leave the road. Thanks to the steering and brakes, all stock , on this 45 year old machine I avoided an accident that probably would have killed or seriously injured me and may have killed the two little kids in the back of that Subaru (one was pressed right up against the window, didn’t appear to be belter in). This was the closest I’ve come to a serious accident in a classic car and my ‘02 performed far better than I could have hoped. What a machine.
  9. Will check into that when I get the chance. That said, I think I may have identified the source of the issue, at least in part. I only just noticed this today, and I barely drove the car, so the manual choke was never fully disengaged, I suspect it might be contributing to this, as it blocks the airway and would probably vibrate near WOT. I don't make a habit of going to WOT on a cold motor with the choke still partly set but it had to be done to avoid getting steamrolled by traffic leaving my neighborhood, and that was when I noted this.
  10. I'm not sure regarding the vacuum line, all of the engine work and the gauge mounting was done under prior ownership. To clarify at WOT the needle is pegged at zero, yes, but approaching WOT (5 to 0.5 vacuum, lets say) it vibrates a lot.
  11. The filter looks pretty clean but the whole assembly is a bit weird. The p/o cut a hole in the bottom of the stock air cleaner to accept a Weber 32/36, which has no air filter directly attached to it, but instead sucks air through the stock ring shaped air filter, which sits fairly loose in the assembly. The air filter just bounces around in there, and of course bounces more at higher rpm, so perhaps this is the issue.
  12. I have a VDO vacuum gauge in my car and it seems to be correct in its readings and suffers no vibration for about 85% of its arc. It was mounted somewhat haphazardly, and the plate it is mounted to is a piece of thin metal than can vibrate. At and around wide open throttle the needle vibrates quite a lot, more than the gauge itself and the other gauges mounted to same plate suffer no vibration. Apparently a vibrating needle at idle can be a symptom of various issues, but I've found nothing about a vibrating needle at WOT? I wouldn't be surprised if it is just the vacuum line routing, etc., being somewhat dodgy but I want to rule out an engine issue if I can.
  13. Now that I think about it, the head may have been replaced. This is the note in its entirety. If we ignore the period (which may be a smudged comma) then it looks like Doug, the owner, is asking for them to use an E21 head and not telling them to use the cracked head.
  14. Alright. They did resurface the head so that might have helped to correct it. Not sure about that though.
  15. So the service records that detail the rebuild performed on my motor about 30,000 miles ago state: “cylinder head exhaust port cracked, did not leak during pressure test, [owner] said to use.” Do I need to be shopping for a new cylinder head? My motor seems healthy enough but it seems very odd to go through all the trouble of rebuilding the engine and not replacing the head if it was cracked unless it was extremely minor.
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