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andyleonard

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andyleonard last won the day on February 10 2019

andyleonard had the most liked content!

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    Topanga, CA

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  1. I did this same as dionk on a 67 1600 with the Volvo brakes and big rotors. I cut the front off the pedal box and used an American MC. Works great. I can't find the damned posts. Couple years ago I think. Much written on this.
  2. FYI https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/alternative-to-tii-booster.35661/
  3. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/d/topanga-parts-car-bmw-320i/7096146961.html Pics on CL. There's a 1981/1982 BMW 320i here that has donated it's trans, driveshaft, diff, half-shafts, rear brakes, starter and front spindles to a 67 BMW 1600 project. The 320i is now surplus to needs...but it still has the motor (165psi last I checked), wiring and injection, sheetmetal is not bad, all the trim is there, etc., Interior is not great but there. I might want to cut the spare wheel well out.It could be a roller if it had front spindles and wheels or I can load it on your flatbed on rollers with a tractor. If you're a nice guy I might even be able to deliver it.Being a BMW guy from WAY back I am reluctant to scrap it with the motor still in there, so I'm offering it for sale in case it's useful to someone who wants to build a race car, put a Chevy in it, or drop in one of the 1983 745i turbo motors/trans I have here.I think the head alone is worth $300, as it can go on a 2002 block I have. The short block and injection might be worth something to someone.I'll take best offer over $300 in a week or two and if nothing happens I'll pull the head and scrap the car. I have the key, title and it's non-opped.Email questions happily answered.
  4. If you think you'll need bearings, please source the bearings before the box comes apart, otherwise you could be waiting a while for parts from Germany. Blunt knows which big bearing is incorrectly labelled by BMW and can save you trouble.
  5. Ahem. What I'm trying to say here is that I don't think the 235 will go in with the right-hand 4 speed bracket in place. Over/out.
  6. I think your issue will be with the 4 speed bracket on the passenger side. You could Sawzall off the protruding part, leaving the straps on the body, put the cut-off part in a baggie in the glove box for later. Later one could weld the part back on and it'd be more-or-less invisible. The new bolt-on rear mounts for the 5 speed (as shown in the Blue Book) (where do these come from anyway?) just require a slit in the carpet for the backing nuts and could be removed in minutes, leaving only the 4 bolt holes to be plugged. It's cool that you're protecting the car...and still modifying it.
  7. You may want to practice-mount the 235 and check the clearance between the 4 speed mounts on the car and the 235 case before you commit to this route.
  8. Ever wonder why amateur driving suits have puffy butts?
  9. Both guys above have hit it. If you are a welder, take it out, sandblast it and reinforce the right-hand bolt support...and while you're in there braze up the little holes or something. The holes are not your big problem. You REALLY don't want that cross bolt to tip under pressure. If you are not a welder, get it out of there and replace it with a good shell - keep all your pedals and stuff - and replace any worn bushings and springs that look janky while you're in there. You have 3 points of contact with your car: the steering wheel, your butt and your feet. Don't give away the feedback from one of them to save a dollar or two. Plus the cost of the trouser change when the pivot breaks away.
  10. http://www.bimmers.com/02/faq/transmission.html#cr235
  11. Castrol 20/50 and a can of STP, check valve clearances and you can drive this car almost forever.
  12. Just to be clear - and over and out - one does not need to BFH the tunnel anywhere in real life to install a 235 in place of a 4 speed, regardless of the diagram you have posted. When folks refer to using a BFH on the tunnel, 99.9% of the time they are referring to the additional clearance needed by the pedal cluster for the slave cylinder on a 245.
  13. Why - exactly - are people doing this? To make a 245 look like a 235? To avoid clearancing the tunnel for the 245 slave? Seems like a lot of work.
  14. It looks like that's what they're referring to in this printed imaginary scenario. But the 4 speed bent metal brackets that bolt/weld to the tunnel to support the rear trans mount and crosspiece are the parts that hit the case on the new 5 speed.
  15. Dunno what that's all about. Clearly you don't need to move sheetmetal to swap a 235 into a 4 speed. Some of the Blue Books directly contradict themselves. They can't even figure out if they want you to drill the second hole in the rod small ends or not. Would YOU trust these people with a trans swap?
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