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About andyleonard

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  • Location Topanga, CA

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  1. andyleonard

    235/5 Rear Mounting Bracket

    Ahem. What I'm trying to say here is that I don't think the 235 will go in with the right-hand 4 speed bracket in place. Over/out.
  2. andyleonard

    235/5 Rear Mounting Bracket

    I think your issue will be with the 4 speed bracket on the passenger side. You could Sawzall off the protruding part, leaving the straps on the body, put the cut-off part in a baggie in the glove box for later. Later one could weld the part back on and it'd be more-or-less invisible. The new bolt-on rear mounts for the 5 speed (as shown in the Blue Book) (where do these come from anyway?) just require a slit in the carpet for the backing nuts and could be removed in minutes, leaving only the 4 bolt holes to be plugged. It's cool that you're protecting the car...and still modifying it.
  3. andyleonard

    235/5 Rear Mounting Bracket

    You may want to practice-mount the 235 and check the clearance between the 4 speed mounts on the car and the 235 case before you commit to this route.
  4. Ever wonder why amateur driving suits have puffy butts?
  5. Both guys above have hit it. If you are a welder, take it out, sandblast it and reinforce the right-hand bolt support...and while you're in there braze up the little holes or something. The holes are not your big problem. You REALLY don't want that cross bolt to tip under pressure. If you are not a welder, get it out of there and replace it with a good shell - keep all your pedals and stuff - and replace any worn bushings and springs that look janky while you're in there. You have 3 points of contact with your car: the steering wheel, your butt and your feet. Don't give away the feedback from one of them to save a dollar or two. Plus the cost of the trouser change when the pivot breaks away.
  6. andyleonard

    BFH, take two.....
  7. andyleonard

    Low compression band-aids?

    Castrol 20/50 and a can of STP, check valve clearances and you can drive this car almost forever.
  8. andyleonard

    BFH, take two.....

    Just to be clear - and over and out - one does not need to BFH the tunnel anywhere in real life to install a 235 in place of a 4 speed, regardless of the diagram you have posted. When folks refer to using a BFH on the tunnel, 99.9% of the time they are referring to the additional clearance needed by the pedal cluster for the slave cylinder on a 245.
  9. andyleonard

    BFH, take two.....

    Why - exactly - are people doing this? To make a 245 look like a 235? To avoid clearancing the tunnel for the 245 slave? Seems like a lot of work.
  10. andyleonard

    BFH, take two.....

    It looks like that's what they're referring to in this printed imaginary scenario. But the 4 speed bent metal brackets that bolt/weld to the tunnel to support the rear trans mount and crosspiece are the parts that hit the case on the new 5 speed.
  11. andyleonard

    BFH, take two.....

    Dunno what that's all about. Clearly you don't need to move sheetmetal to swap a 235 into a 4 speed. Some of the Blue Books directly contradict themselves. They can't even figure out if they want you to drill the second hole in the rod small ends or not. Would YOU trust these people with a trans swap?
  12. andyleonard

    BFH, take two.....

    Long way to walk for a cold beer....
  13. andyleonard

    BFH, take two.....

    From what I've heard, they're fitting front housings off 4 speeds onto the front of 245s, allowing the use of the original slave cylinder and release bearing setup. I wasn't aware you had to machine anything or use a sandwich plate???
  14. andyleonard

    BFH, take two.....

    I think they're saying that you have to REMOVE the 4 speed brackets and not just ADD the 5 speed brackets because otherwise the 235 case will hit the RH 4 speed bracket. I think.
  15. andyleonard

    Just for arguments sake

    It was...for a second there... Google "Pole in Barn Paradox"