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williamtii

Solex
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  1. doing the spring cleaning /organization and came across these. Bump!
  2. I wish we had a Tijuana in the Northeast, I have read through many stories where people have been extremely happy with the quality of work and service. I have heard that Rhode Island is more lax with its laws, it's the state of choice for re-chroming parts so maybe it's the same with Paint? There does not seem to be a whole lot of choices around CT, it's either super high end Ferrari kind of shops or regular body guys.
  3. Well since the roll bar is out, I will need something else for a "dedicated" track car. Cant think of any car more suited than a Mark IV or a series 1 XJ6 ! The value thing is whats killing me, as it directly affects the price of restoration. I don't personally care since I'm never selling the thing, its been my little blue friend for over 15 years now. I have a colleague with a very nice 911 that costs an absolute fortune anytime something is done. The latest was a mistake putting it on a lift that slipped putting a small dent into the body. He was concerned since it went through the heavy undercoating exposing fresh metal. Cost nearly 2K to bang it out and hit with "factory" undercoating in a spot no one would ever see!
  4. Thanks for all the response guys, figured I would get a whole lot more flak for trying to ruin a roundie Tii ! I dont intend to make it a real track car and put it in harms way. More of something to take to driver days. My younger cousin started dragging his E30 318 around to track days and its getting on my nerves! He's proving its cheap, easy, and way too much fun. A roll bar isn't essential, more of a "while your in there" idea to add some safety. They also look cool............. I can do all the mechanical and suspension, and wouldn't bring it very far from stock. It's real purpose is to bomb around around town and scare the children. I would also be happy to help with sanding and blocking but I know it's hard to find a shop that will let you do this. I have a little guy now and the garage is not big enough to work in, so time and capabilities are a bit crunched. The missus is starting to squawk about a second so this is going to be my best opportunity. Here's the car from the fall before last, its all still the same. Rust looks better here than it actually is. Little girly is hiding some nasty fender fender rust that I know extends well behind. and the rear arch on the other side is in worse shape. I do have 2 NOS fenders for it.
  5. Hello All, Looking for some feedback on my current internal struggle. I originally bought my 73 Tii 15yrs ago at the age of 18 with the intention having it be a rolling restoration. I can due the mechanical aspect and was going to learn the body work and paint. About 6months later I started seeing the first good restorations hitting into the $20's on ebay and decided I should not muck up a good car with shoddy beginners body work. The plan was to drive it around, taking care of what was needed to keep it going and wait until I got a big boy job to send it to the pros. I figured if I helped with as much of the process and provided all parts I could keep the costs reasonable. At the time an unofficial estimate from 2 different shops put me around 10K so I figured 15K with a buffer. Fast forward 10 years and the climate has changed quite a bit. With restored Tii's going up above 6 figures, restoration costs have followed suit. I have heard numbers for a car of my condition well above 50K. One of the shops I had originally talked to wouldn't even entertain my car, said it wouldn't be worth their time! So with a big boy job in hand, I have enough stashed to do something with the body. It runs and drives great and has honestly been a blast to drive as is. Interior, bumpers, and trim are out and I have some cheap knock-off racing seats in it. Rust is certainly present but not terminal by any means. Fenders, rockers, rear quarter arches, and chin spoiler need new metal (and whatever lurks behind). Frame rails, floors, trunk, shock towers, doors, windshield, etc is all good. I also have many of the patch panels needed and an extra hood and trunk. I would absolutely be keeping the original color Riviera. My real problem with all of this is that I do not really l do not really like the idea of driving a high dollar restoration car around. And I certainly dont want it to sit around just for looking at. And for 50K or more I would rather keep it as is and buy an e34 M5, 1st Gen MR2, 78' Lincoln, Merkur XR4Ti, 944, and a crappy XJ6 So with this, I have a new idea of having some less expensive body and paint done, put a roll bar in it, and go to track days and have fun with it. Does anyone have any recommendations for a shop around the NYC area? I have been keeping tabs on other peoples restorations on the faq for many many years so I have a good idea of whats needed, and can work with them where possible.
  6. Update for this one, I drove it until winter with the manual brake mod. Honestly not the worst thing in the world. I picked up a used Alfa booster from another member here. The kind that need a little grinding on the Clevis to clear the actuator on the car. Finally Bled the brakes yesterday and power brakes are back! Extremely squishy after sitting over the winter but they are working and that shows that the rebuilt booster was no good. Hope this helps others with similar issues.
  7. Added pics of clutch set-up by request. Flywheel is tarnished from sitting but surface is smooth. I would not hesitate to put it in a driver as is. Plenty of meet on the clutch disk and pressure plate was strong when I pulled it.
  8. Clearing out some parts. Have an Alternator, Starter, and clutch set-up from a '76. (Flywheel, Pressure Plate, and clutch Disk) Clutch disc is OEM and has plenty of meat on it. $50 + Shipping for the lot or make offers on anything separate. Located in Fairfield CT.
  9. Struts came out of a running driving rusty 76 that I bought to part out years ago. Had planned on sand blasting and redoing them but it never happened. The car was on 15's and was lowered a little, 1-1.5 inches if i remember. I do not know what the springs are, or the dampers that live in the struts. The rear shocks were Bilstein sports which I put on my tii. Could be be sports up front too but I have no idea. Car was very solid and stiff compared to my stock floppy tii. The front Springs are marked red and the Rears White if that helps. The metal is crusty but GOOD, no rot or thin spots. They have been stored in the warm indoors as long as I have had them. Asking $200 for the set, local pick-up preferred
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