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bnam

Solex
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Everything posted by bnam

  1. JSO, What's Christina's email? I'd like a question answered as well and have not heard back from Andreas. Thx, Byas
  2. Andy, was the spring still compressed when you corkscrewed it back thru the hole?
  3. The pedal is hinged at the bottom on 2 steel "ball-joints" There are holes in the bottom of the pedal that gets pushed over these balls. And, the upper part of the pedal has a steel slot/loop in which the pedal lever slides -- this loop prevents the pedal from lifting away form the lever. To remove pedal you have to lift the bottom of the pedal up until it is free from the ball heads. It can take some force to do that - hence the discussion of what to use as a lever. Perhaps the claw side of a claw hammer?
  4. Welcome! Lots of helpful people and information on this forum to help you through your new acquisition. BTW, the 74Tii did not have any smog stuff orginally. If there's K&N filter on there, most likely that the original airbox was removed. Those are very good and expensive - so if seller still has it, see if your brother can pick it up. Post some pics. Not sure what cables you are referring to. The Tii used mechanical linkage for the throttle. Download the K-fisher manual, make your self some of the tools need to tune it (or buy the tools). Byas
  5. Electronic or points? Does it start and run now?
  6. I just noticed the seat belt warning light. I thought that was a NA only feature and Tourings were not imported to North America.
  7. Nice car! While I don't have an estimate, there is a 74Tii Touring on sale on ebay for $30K, but has been at that price for a few months now. Byas
  8. What sort of foam can one use to seal gaps around the radiator? (Confession -- this is not regarding my Tii, but to another project that I picked up a couple of months ago which has a gap between the radiator and radiator shroud the complete envelopes the radiator). Byas
  9. Ok guys, get a room before you lick Bill's creamsicle...
  10. Just use the crank pulley. While the smaller dia of the pulley can reduce the accuracy a tad, there is +/-2 deg tolerance in the distributor curve per the factory manual. I used a stool to step higher and get no top of the opening. On my Tii, the fuel return hose also gets in the way so had to tie that up out of the way first. The results were about the same in my case. B
  11. What about sticking it in the oven at 150F for 10min? Engine gets hotter than that, so the heat should not be an issue.
  12. What's your objective? Functionality or restoring to original look?
  13. As a late-ish '76 car, and since the 320is were already in production with the 1.393 perhaps they also switched the late 76 2002s to the 1.393.
  14. That looks interesting as well. Specially the part of it being abl to fit in the trunk - pretty compact.
  15. Was wondering if this was good but less expensive alternative to some other lifts http://kwik-lift.com/products.html
  16. That cold start valve is from a later L-jetronic system (the blue plastic body is designed for the later style connector - but could be made to work). My 80 and 81 Fiat Spiders with Fuel Injection had the same part. B
  17. I've had good luck with rewinding the spring. Even better luck when I was given a NOS BMW set for free by total stranger. But, apart from spring and actually more important - critically important - is the interital loack mechansim. Again, I've had luck in cleaning it out to where it would lock. But, not as well as a new set. A belt that does not lock is useless as it does nothing. B
  18. If you disconnect the vacuum hose, or plug it, the distributor operates the same as the non-vacuum one and has the same mechanical advance curve. Not worth changing out if it is working well.
  19. nope. If it is brown black and same length as the purple, they are both for the washer.
  20. Nice work. What model radio is it? I could not find it on XOVision web site. Was wondering if there was a similar version with BT. B
  21. Per my wiring diag (74Tii) there is one unused plug labelled "terminal 50" (item # 21 on the diag). However, it is with a black wire. The other terminals are: #20 (connects to power from starter and is also black wire) Green white wire and female connector to connect to the fuse block Connector at timer relay Ring terminal for ground on brown wire Brown wire + Red/White wires to starting valve Brown/white + Black/white wires to temp/timer switch On the diag you posted, the middle one outlined in green is the ring terminal for ground. The 2nd upright wire on the left is the power and that little bump in the middle is the unused connector "terminal 50" None of this is white. You may want to pull out this harness and see if anything else was added by PO. Byas
  22. A taller clamp above the throttle gives a more smooth curve -- if you care about such things.
  23. Try interchanging the wires at the lamp. What you are describing is similar to what happens when the the flasher wire and the parking light wire and interchanged.
  24. Have you checked your ignition system? Spark plugs clean and gapped properly, points, dwell, etc? Byas
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