bnam

Some carbs (VW Solex carbs for the bug) came with a hole in the throttle plate. In other setups people have drilled holes to help with idle particularly when running hotter cams that have less vacuum at idle: to compensate for the weaker vacuum, you'd have to turn the idle screw in almost all the way to lift up the throttle enough -- but this exposes the secondary jets, so instead drill a small hole to let enough air get through at idle.

CD - question for you... After reading your post and checking the springs as I prepare to repair a CV boot, I noticed that I have the grey/white 13.2mm heavy duty rear springs on my 74Tii. Did all Tiis come with the heavy duty springs? I measured the front springs at 12mm, but they were painted blue/white, instead of grey/white. Byas

I agree with Jim -- i have no hesitation now in removing the console.

Before you spend money on new cold start timer box, you need to get the idle adjusted. This requires a couple of tools that can be easily made. Jaymic sells them for $10. The linkages need to be adjusted to correct length and following the procedure in the KF manual, the idle adjusted. Then got to the cold start part. The Mccartney book has a couple of pages on testing the components and the timer. Do those tests before buying. Byas

No harm in staying with the canister, but if you are using a later pump with a higher flow rate (I believe the later pumps are 150 l/hr or better), then you don't "need" it. Byas

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,376972/highlight,/sid,1e8041601f2ddcc77a3ecc1c9e3f0ce8/

Thx! Call you tomorrow.

New ones are also avail and prices could be comparable.

There's also a tiny plastic wedge shaped shim that goes between the console and dash through which that 8mm bolt passes. Cracks more easily if those shims are not there. Byas

Did you check with Rob at 2002Haus?

Thanks! Will be on the lookout for one. B

Got it. Will there be another batch made or is that it? B

Dieter, If any left, I'm interested in a set as well. Let me know. Thanks, Byas

Did this engine lifting bracket (borrowing a pic from Bill) come on every engine or only on some. It's missing on mine and I'd like to get one. Byas

No need to remove resistor wire. Hot spark will work with it + red coil. That's the set up I have on my 74Tii as of 2 weeks ago. There's only 2 connections you need to make -- black wire to the - side of coil and red wire to the + side of coil. Looks like the set up you have should work. You can put back your points and if it fire, then your orientation is not the problem. If you have connected correctly, perhaps it is faulty hotspark unit. Byas

Hmmm.. I searched the Blunt site and entered the parts number but it only showed the boot+clips -- not this full set which has the covers, clip, and washer.

The outer CV joint (pass side) is leaking somewhere - as there was an arc of grease spray on the nearby components. Was not a lot, so it seems like a small leak or an occasional leak only at some positions. I'm reading up on "how-tos" on replacing these when I came across this youtube video. The halfshaft and CV setup looks near identical to the on the 2002. Can someone confirm? My car came with a 3.91LSD installed by PO. Does this change the parts/#s I need to order? Is this WuN part a good deal? (assuming it the same part for my application) http://www.wallothnesch.com/reparatur-satz-fuer-balg-33-16-08.html Byas

Could not find these on the parts diagram. Any sugestions. Search was not helpful (perhaps better terms than "badge mounting clip"?). Found out the badge on my car was held with permatex. Byas

Got a few things done this weekend. Ever since I got the car 15mos ago, cold start always too 15-20 secs of cranking. Some posts here suggested that 10sec was normal, so I thought mine was ok but on the longer side. But, I'd been meaning to check out the cold start circuit. Did that yesterday. Switch was ok, but timer relay failed the mccartney tests. So I opened up the timer relay box but all circuits seemed ok. Found an old thread on here about the cold start harness so checked it out this am and found that it have been disconnected (by PO?) from the starter circuit. Plugged it back in and now car starts right up. While I was at it and had the airfilter box out, I cleaned up the drivers side engine bay harness which was grody with oil/grease and also re-wrapped some of it and did some other fixes. Changed out the fan belt. Tried out the Bando 9.5x965. It was the same length as the used Conti one (labeled as 975) that came with car in trunk. The belt on the car turned out to be 12mm wide on top (vs. 10mm for Bando) and longer by about 20mm. The extra width made it harder to squeeze past the radiator to take it out. The bando went in easier. Now all's good. Meant to check and top up the gear box oil, but that didn't pan out. While I had the car up, I did some more cleaning underneath. Some areas had 1/4+" of caked on grease. Then ran out of degreaser. While cleaning I noticed that the rear right outer CV joint was leaking. It had sprayed an arc of grease as it rotated. Was not much and I did not find the exact location of the leak (must be small). But need to change the CV boot now. Have not done that myself before. So need to do some reading and ask questions. Byas

Good idea. Seems easy enough to try. Thx! Byas

Actually I had searched and read the idiots guide, but in a hurry so missed the dribbles part. Anyhoo... Kfunk, thanks for pointer on tool -- ran into that issue once I got under, I could not get my regular hex socket in. Even with the socket, unless I can get a wobble joint in, I'm not sure it wil work as my Ansa header is right underneath. LimeySteve (I think) had written about welding a bolt to a wrench. Perhaps, I should get the plug that jgerock has and get Jiffy lube etc to swap it out. (what's the source for that plug?) Byas

Actually I had searched and read the idiots guide, but in a hurry so missed the dribbles part. Anyhoo... Kfunk, thanks for pointer on tool -- ran into that issue once I got under, I could not get my regular hex socket in. Even with the socket, unless I can get a wobble joint in, I'm not sure it wil work as my Ansa header is right underneath. LimeySteve (I think) had written about welding a bolt to a wrench. Perhaps, I should get the plug that jgerock has and get Jiffy lube etc to swap it out. (what's the source for that plug?) Byas