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achman

Solex
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  1. This was a "for sale" ad disguised as a "what's the car worth" ad, nothing to see here Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
  2. I sold my E36 M3 Sedan on BAT. Besides pressuring me to lower my reserve (I didn't) they were fine. The comments were almost all positive, I was very upfront about what was wrong with the car (barely anything) and it sold. Should have gotten more, but the market spoke and it is what it is. The one thing I wish was that payment process/pickup details should be more uniform.
  3. Hans did the exact same with mine, it came back looking brand new. He tested it on his rig after he completely disassembled it and replaced any worn or used up parts. Every screw looked like new. He has pumps already finished and ready to go if you want to do an exchange and get yours sooner (no pump is "matching numbers" ) but I chose to have him rebuild mine so it would stay with my car. Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
  4. Hmm that's a bummer. Hans was getting along in years. I had mine done 3 years ago I think. Yeah I would say Gus is the pump man now... Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
  5. I would take Paul up on his offer, as he's the man...but for pump work I sent mine to H&R and Hans did a superb job on mine and is highly regarded. Make sure to send the warmup regulator also, and tell him you want your pump back, and not an exchange for a ready-to-go one
  6. The general rule is buy the best body you can, everything else is cheap. Like others have said you can do everything on a 2002 in a carport except heavy body work (unless you happen to own a body shop). Extensive body work is just not cost effective. I would personally spend up to your budget on the most correct original roundie driver I could find, with no or very minimal rust. Mechanicals, suspension, engine, tranny can all be done over time. The body is what counts. Take your time and find the right one, ask around. It took me a year. It won't take you that long, but in the long run it will be the best choice you made. Resist buying the first, cheapest, or closest car you find, my personal rules.
  7. How come? I know it would take some work, but my Scheel seats fit and look fine after some elbow grease and ingenuity Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
  8. They sure would look good in my 914, and I am local
  9. I have the authentic BMW Tii resonator and exhaust, and yes, it is rather quiet...but it fits perfectly, looks correct, and helps on the ride down to the vintage!
  10. Which model is it? I have an original Frankfurt in my '73 Tii date coded correct, I can measure when I get home...but there are sellers on Ebay which sell the radios and knobs I would look there. Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
  11. It must be good, it's "not legal for street use" Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
  12. I use valvoline VR1 racing oil, it's high zinc for the flat tappet people Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
  13. I too used B-Quiet, but if I had to do it over I would use a combo of Lowe's tar stuff and some foam layer stuff Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
  14. Like ray said, it might be running too rich now, which can also cause a stalling problem. Previous owner may have messed with timing and mixture to cover up the vacuum leak. I would follow the Tii setup procedure to start with a good baseline and then proceed from there. Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
  15. There is room for a AAA card right next to the lug wrench and it doesn't make any noise over bumps ) Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
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