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bnam

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Everything posted by bnam

  1. bnam
    I saw a squarie drive in the opposite direction as I was driving my Polaris 74Tii. Wondering if driver is a FAQer. Byas
  2. bnam
    The factory manual above (if I'm reading it correctly) says clearance at base circle is 0.011". Is that what you use or are you setting base circle clearance to 0.006-8"?
  3. bnam
    Thanks for the pics!! I think mine is stock then -- I think the pic below is closer to your stock pic. Byas
  4. bnam
    Rob, The cam flange has TDC markings, so I used that as a more precise guide. "Pointing down" confused me if I interpret that to mean vertically straight down -- as only one lobe at a time can be made to point exactly down -- plus the engine is tilted... But I get it now. Adjusting valves on a Fiat I used to own required the clearance to be measured when the valve lobes were pointing away 180 deg from the follower/rocker. My questions is that on the '02 when I set clearance at TDC (lobes pointing down) and then rotate till (say) IN lobe is 180deg from its follower, the clearance opens up by 0.002-3". I was wondering if that was normal or was an indication of a reground cam. Byas
  5. bnam
    The lowermost part of the lobe is not below the billet, but is pretty close to flush with it. Is that how stock cams are? Byas
  6. bnam
    The factory manual says adjust clearance at TDC. At TDC the valve lobes are not 180deg away from the rocker. The lobes point downward (but there a range of positions which could be called downward). So I'm confused -- it either is at TDC per manual or when lobe points away (i.e. 180 deg from rocker) which is what many posts in the FAQ state -- but not what is in the manual or in Haynes. And setting clearance at one of the above positions results in a different reading when measured at the other position -- at least this is the case on my cam which is stock, but possibly reground. Byas
  7. bnam
    I followed the procedure in the Haynes manual -- set #1 to TDC (pointer on timing cover to mark on pulley) and adjust #1 intake and ex to 0.006 to 0.008. At this position the cam lobes are not exactly 180deg from the sliders on the follower. #1 was at 0.006 in and ex at this position If I rotate it so that the IN lobe is closer to 180de from the follower slider, the clearane opens up by 0.002-3". Is this ok? Or should I ignore the Haynes procedure and check every valve only when lobe is 180deg from follower? PO told me he had a perf cam in there but it was not clear which cam. Could this play a role? (Cam has 2' marked on it between #1 lobes and front bearing). Thx, Byas
  8. bnam
    Is there a way to id a cam that is in the car? The one in mine has what looks like 2 followed by a dot or ' (2') between cylinder 1 cams and the front bearing. "2" marked on timing gear flange. Nose of the cam (the front face where the timing gear mounts) has the number 080 and nothing else. And between #3 and #4 lobes is marked BMW. It does have a fuel pump lobe -- (did Tii cam have fuel pump lobes?) I'm assuming it is either stock 264 (possible non-Tii unless Tiis also had fuel pump lobe) or regrind of stock. Any way to tell if it is a regrind? Byas
  9. bnam
    These are still available at BMW Classic dealers -- though the second bracket is NLA. The middle bracket in this pic of Bill's touring is what I'd like to get (or make). The plastic ones I bought from BMW were similar, but in plastic and broke when I tried to enlarge the holes. Byas
  10. bnam
    I just got the brackets from Anton today and ran into problems while installing as they would not fit in correctly. Wondering if anyone else had this problem. While fitting the brackets, I noticed that when they are fully seated the holes don't line up. Was worse on pass side, but problems on both sides. So I compare the two bracket with each other and with the bumper shock and realized that they were not quite symmetric and the hole was not located properly on either one. Hole is set deeper in on the bracket than on the shock which is why it does not line up with the holes in the body. The angles on the bracket are different on each -- note they are off about qtr inch (obscured by the grease) And the holes thems are not quite square as you can see the tilt in this pic. I'll be contacting Anton, but wanted to see if I was missing something form my end. Byas
  11. bnam
    I like the simple metal cable holders that came on these cars to hold the ignition wires in place. I tried ordering some from a later BMW and they turned out to be plastic with a smaller dia hole from the screw. Are there holders from any other cars (BMW or otherwise) that have similar function? Anyone reproduced these? Byas
  12. bnam
    Yes, that's it. Thank you!
  13. bnam
    I just struggled with that a couple of weeks ago using the same tool. I removed the roller as it did not help. Find the smallest loop thru which it the lockstrip fits easily (was the second smallest I think). Here's the orientation I used. As you can see from the pic the rubber could get trapped between the bottom of the lock strip and the tool. So you need to apply lubricant to the bottom of the lock strip as well as the top and groove of the rubber. The mix I used was not strong enough. Next time I'd try a stronger dose of soap in the mix. I wonder it it's ok to used petroleum jelly or will that damage the rubber? Byas
  14. bnam
    I have an innovate with bung next to gearbox. Sensor died within 6mos. Got another, but have not installed yet. I did read about an enthusiast who had developed a better controller which works with a wifi router to send info directly to your phone or PC. I forgot the name of that and am searching again (not AEM -- though they have a wifi model as well). It was pretty reasonable too.
  15. bnam
    Pull out that side and make sure you've got the wiring on correctly and is grounded well. I had a similar situation and found that it was my parking light that was actually blinking. I forget the exact incorrect set up of the wires, but correcting that fixed it. Byas
  16. bnam
    email sent
  17. bnam
    So, internally the non-tii ones have protrusions on other restrictions to flow? Are these non-removable? Are the older ones which presumably do not have EGR just as good as Tii? Byas
  18. bnam
    So, let me ask a question that's been on my mind ever since I started reading about Tii vs. non-tii exhausts. The port size and shape on both manifolds appear to be the same. The size and shape of outlet where it connects to the downpipe appears to be the same. And length of each runner is the same. So, what makes a Tii exhaust "better" - when the parameters for tuning a manifold are all the same? Perhaps later smog-era manifolds had protrusions that impeded flow. But, the early non-tii exhausts did not have that right? Would like to understand this more/better... Byas
  19. bnam
    I'm consiering buying a stock exh manifold from a reliable faq seller. It's for my 74 Tii -- though I'm not looking specifically for a Tii exhaust. The one that has been offered to me looks good but I'd like help in id'ing what this port is for and whether it will be easy and reliable (no leaks) to plug - and how to plug? Thx, byas
  20. bnam
    Rob, It isn't the first incorrect part I've found on this car, and probably not the last yet. But, I've got to mention one thing that surprised me in a good way. PO had told me engine was rebuilt about 7K before I got it. But, odo was not working, so not sure how accurate that was. Now in the past 3K miles that I've put on it, it has only consumed 0.25qts of oil --> practically zero. That must be a good indicator. Byas
  21. bnam
    Finally got it done yesterday. Removed the old plug with a breaker bar. Here's a pic of the old and new (on left). The new has many more threads. Is this the right one -- and the old one incorrect? (what's it from?) Byas
  22. bnam
    I thought OP was asking about the black rubber 2-piece "guides" that the rod passes thru -- part #41615480155 and 56. Byas
  23. bnam
    I think it's by the relays next to the brake reservoir. Try connecting a ground wire from one of the 3 motor mounting nuts to one of the 4 screws on the cowling that holds up the hood locking rod.
  24. bnam
    I'm considering converting my 74 to the smaller bumpers. Is Bluebeem's solution the only "kit" avail? Is there a way to contact him? Byas
  25. bnam
    Esty, Have you checked for connectivity from coil to condenser with an ohm meter? There could be breaks in between that may not be readily apparent.
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