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Am going to check oil level and top up the 5spd as needed. Is the right way to fill till it dribbles out the fill hole? Byas

The later black ones were chrome underneath. I didn't know black was original so I removed the black with brake cleaner early in my ownership - so chrome now. Will go back to black eventually. Byas

avail from penske

+1 on Rob

BTW, I'm believe that the AFR should stay in a tight range. This graph indicates that AFR should change depending on rpm and throttle position (the combination dictates Air consumption)

I'm going to test the cold start relay/injector today. Just got an Equus remote starter. What's the right/best way to hook this up? Never used one before. Byas

Yeah, mine came like that from the PO. About 1/16-1/8" too long even after diff all the way back. I intend to resize it by another 1/4". But, it's been on the car for now going on 4000+ miles (3000+ by me). Byas

I've ordered the Bando. Will check it out.

I'm looking for a 9.5x965 belt for my 74Tii (I'd like the shorter one over the 975mm one). The choices I've come across are: Gates 7380: 10 x 965 Bando 2380: 9.5 x 965 (but I've not heard of Bando - are they good?) Conti-tech -- AVX10X965: 10 x 965 (but I've not found a source, 975 is more common). Any recommendations across these 3? Byas

Nice!

i just installed Hot-Spark in my 74Tii distributor. Easy fit and so far I like it. The idle seems more even. I had recently bought the Equus 5568 so I used that to time it correctly and also measure the advance curve. I really like this timing light. The ability to measure advance, voltage, dwell, rpm all in one is very convenient. The digital advance setting is better than my ol one with the dial advance. I graphed the Tii curve from the Factory Manual This curve is different from many I''ve seen published. My measurements fall within the acceptable limits so I think it is ok -- unless there is some aspect I've missed. Byas[/img]

Rob, BTW, there is a way to adjust the regulator back to 10mm if it's off. Byas

Would the noodle gasket from the tail light lens work? If so, the VW tail light gasket is the same but much cheaper.

I was just thinking about and working on brigthening the tail lamps this weekend. Looks like you are using some sort of metallized pastic fo he reflectors. While that's real high reflectivity, I feel it is important to also maintain the elliptic curved reflector surface as flat reflectors disperse more widely and don't concentrate the light in the direction of the traffic following you. Do you have a similar solution for top/bottom surface or did you just paint? I installed Bare Metal Foil - the Ultra Chrome version. It's a bit more painstaking, but it conforms well to the curved surfaces and holds up well (at least it has on my car over the past 6 months). http://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html 2 sheets should be plenty for both square tails with some leftover for other areas like inside the speedo/tach etc. Another thing I found is that the commonly used recommended bulb (#97) is half the wattage of the what was originally specified. Instead #5008 R10W 6CP is 50% brighter. There are 8-10CP bulbs avail, but they also seem to be shorter life (200hrs) which may be ok for some and not for others. Went outside and took some pics (SLR manual mode on tripod): First with R5W on both sides. The right tail light was covered with BMF on the concave surfaces with BMF Chrome foil about 6mos ago. The left one I had not covered then, but did so last weekend on the concave and top & bottom surfaces with Ultra Chrome foils. It is a brighter than the right even when I switch the bulbs around. Will fix the right side soon. Now with the Eiko R10W in the right tail (which is slightly less reflective) Without lens -- R10W in left, R5W in right. R10w in both My conclusions -- R10W definitely the way to go. Not covering all surfaces does seem to impact reflectivity. Byas

Rob, That's what I found as well -- had to turn the verboten screw quite a bit and it still ran lean. Better, but still lean. I thought it was because I had different cam that breathed differently, but I recently confirmed I have a stock cam. Could it be that the pump pistons are no longer sealing as well and not injecting enough fuel at high revs? Also, did you check for an air leak in your exhaust upstream of the sensor -- I've read that that could cause lean readings as well. Byas

Never mind. While the cable is shorter than what's on there, it will still work and I think is the right one.

I have a newish Mech only Tii distributor on my 74Tii. I ordered part number 01011 as it was listed for the 73Tii. It's the correct orientation (breaker hinge is on the right and contact on the left), but the wire is too short. Anyone have the right part number so I can ask for an exchange? Thanks, Byas

The parts diag is not clear. I need T-brackets for the knee molding between wheel well and bumper on my '74. Currently it s kluged on with the remnants of 2 t-bolts supplanted by screws and other plastic clips. The parts diag shows this number 51131816046, but not clear that this is the part. Can someone confirm or give me the right part number?Thx, Byas

Piked up the manifold from Bryce and a downpipe in great condition from Tito. Got both blasted and painted with VHT. Got to buy the gaskets and the clamps and to install a bung for O2 sensor on downpipe before mounting these. Blasted... Painted Byas

That paper was the first place i've read that gave a reason for the unevenly spaced blades that BMW uses for the radiator fan. B

Rob, You may find this of use... http://www2.basf.us//PLASTICSWEB/displayanyfile?id=0901a5e180004891 Byas

All non-EP greases are basically non-conducting (i.e. dielectric). Wheel bearing and EP greases contain Molybdenum di-sulphide in trace amounts which increases conductivity. Now in the distributor, if the grease stays on the shaft, it does not matter whether it is conducting or not. A dielectric is preferred so that if some grease splatters onto the points, it will not cause a short. Wheel bearing grease applied judiciously will not spatter out so the risk is low. I've got 2500 miles currently since I applied it. The common dielectric grease (for bulbs and connections) is not a very good lubricant. So, I'd rather have a good lubricant on the shaft and take the small risk of a fouled points than have shaft wear and bad timing jitter. Byas

I had the same consideration. But, I didn't think the dielectric grease is designed to have high adhesion on repeated movement. So, ended up putting a bit of wheel bearing grease.