Jump to content

bnam

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    988

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by bnam

  1. bnam
    I've been restoring my existing harness by pulling sections, cleaning, repairing, and re-wrapping in original style. I've completed the trunk section and about 2/3rds of the engine bay sections of the harness. Byas
  2. bnam
    This was probably answered in a round about way. But for future reference, while the injection manual does not state explicitly which is which, all instruction pics on show the early one in an early car with plastic tubes. So, the other must be the late one (and that's the one on the right in the above pics). Rob, Did you get the not getting to WOT issue resolved. After reading your issue, I decided to double check on mine and i was not getting to WOT either with pedal fully down. In my case, it turns out there is a bit of play in the system that I needed to take out. After confirming that pump was correctly synched at idle and WOT with the throttle, I disconnected the safety clip at the firewall bell crank and removed the pin to decouple the vertial linkage from the crank. I then pressed down lightly on the crank to take up the play (throttle nor pump crank should move), screwed the pin down a few turns to fit into easily into the pressed down bell crank. This took the play out of the system and now I have WOT with pedal fully pressed down. ANd, one more question -- you started the thread with the issue of not getting to WOT. So, when you say you are only getting to 15.x AFR at WOT is it truly at WOT or at pedal fully down (but not quite WOT)? Byas
  3. bnam
    What time? I take my girls to the Dance studio on Marconi & Fulton from 9-1030am, so will can meet for Coffee within that window. Byas
  4. bnam
    CD, Hang in there -- you and others like you are an incredible resource to us newer '02 enthusiast. In fact I had a couple of posts that I was hoping to get your input on, but I posted just as the changes were happening. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/139535-tii-spring-rates/?hl=byas Hopefully you decide to stay on. Thanks! Byas
  5. bnam
    25-26deg (the ball mark) at 2100 rpm is outside the spec for the Tii per the bluebook, but not sure that is an issue -- your max is still within the range. idle At what rpm do you have idle set at? Apparently the pump is really sensitive to being less than 1000 ... see this thread about 6 posts down. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/21339-kitty-kitty-kitty-at-what-point-is-af-mix-too-lean/?hl=redzsus#entry803894
  6. bnam
    Nope. Regular socket. It is hybrid bolt though with metric head and SAE thread.
  7. bnam
    Rob, Some questions As you move the eccentric further over the hole, it has to turn a larger arc to get back to WOT (or does it not)? If it does, do you also lengthen the linkage correspondingly? BTW, if you are looking for a later model TB to compare and the one you bought isn't, let me know I have a spare late TB you can borrow. Byas
  8. bnam
    This curve from Redszus shows that the later pump (v6) put out more fuel at WOT (P4) than the earlier ones (v7). If the 2 throttle bodies flowed the same at WOT, this would be about 5% (0.6 AFR) richer for the later pump. But, there is no scale on this curve so hard to actually calculate the fuel delivery at WOT. (source: Mulcahey article from Tii Register)
  9. bnam
    Search does not seem to work. I searched for "Tii Calibration Redzus" from the search box above after first selecting Forums and it said no results -- which is clearly not the case. Same issue from the mobile version -- searching for "Tii exhaust manifold" gave no results. Thx, Byas
  10. bnam
    I could imagine a scenario where the relationship between the pump position and the butterfly are slightly different between the 2 designs -- therefore the guidance in the manual to keep them paired. But, at WOT the relationship is the same for both -- fully open throttle (since the size is the same for both, they should both let in same amount of air) and fully open pump -- so there should be no diff at WOT. Since there's only 2 parts to the equation -- and you've pretty much eliminated all sources of extra air, the only thing that remains IMO is to establish that you are (or not) getting enough fuel. You mention a calibration curve done by Redzus. Is that posted somewhere? We should be able to calculate the AFR from that curve and confirm that the Tii pump will support 12-13AFR at WOT at 5k+rpm. Byas
  11. bnam
    A couple of thoughts... When you had the pump rebuilt, did you get data back that showed that the pump was (capable of) putting out enough fuel at WOT (IIRC about 0.8-0.9 lbs/min of fuel)? What about the injectors? Can they deliver the fuel needed at WOT? Or are they the restriction in the system? BTW, the TB on right is the later one. Byas
  12. bnam
    Rob, Either of them should open fully to WOT though. And if yours is not opening fully at WOT, that's not the cause of the lean condition as not fully opening should actually make it richer (less air for same amt of fuel) With accelerator fully pushed open, is the pump crank at the stop screw? If it is not, the problem is between pump and pedal. Also, I thought you had mentioned shortening one of the linkages in an earlier post. Theoretically, that should decrease the range of motion of the throttle just a bit causing it to be just shy of WOT when the pump crank hits the stop. Byas
  13. bnam
    +1 - seems overpriced.
  14. bnam
    I'm not near limit so no issue for now. My first reaction when I saw the attachments that were not mine was to delete them. But, if I did, I'd be making some posts less valuable. So, that is a possible risk.
  15. bnam
    Welcome! I own a '74 2002 Tii and a VW '71 1302LS Vert. I consider them both comparable to work on. There are areas where one is more complicated than the other. Byas
  16. bnam
    Nope, not the AC relay. The AC relay wiring is not part of the harness. I think this is the seatbelt relay. I have this on my car as well, but have not identified the exact relay on the wiring diag yet. This is the Heater Blower Relay -- confirmed it on the BEHR install manual. Not sure if it was part of the AC install or some cars came with this Relay (it is not on the Wiring diag). Byas
  17. bnam
    I do the following: 1. Lift up the wiper blade arm away from glass 2. Use a small screwdriver to lift the spring clip, while I keep pulling upwards with the wiper blade arm 3. Use a large blade screwdriver on the other side to lever the wiperblade hub off the spindle Byas
  18. bnam
    Same issue with my attachments. There are attachments in my list that were not posted by me. I just happened to have replied within that thread or was the last one that replied. Byas
  19. bnam
    The concern probably is that it won't clear the caliper. If there is greater than 3/4" spacing between caliper and stock wheel, the odds of clearing are probably better.
  20. bnam
    Those are not Euro signals, but early US flat signals.
  21. bnam
    Yes, it includes the CV dust cap, the boot flange with boot already installed on the new flange, small end clamp, concave spring washer, and a new spring clip (and this clip has holes on the end and is easier to install/remove) + the grease. I believe this is the same as the OEM set (which is also Lobro I think). Byas
  22. bnam
    +1 THANKS!!!
  23. bnam
    Some pics from my rebuild and install. I ended up purchasing the kit from WuN (~$30 for ea OE kit) and was surprised to have get it within 3 days from Germany which let me do the install the same week. Before... (this is after lot of cleaning ) REady for assembly Assembled Installed Byas
  24. bnam
    Thanks! The ones I removed were 12.9, so will see if I can get similar. Byas
  25. bnam
    What's the thread size on the 6 socket bolts on each joint? The ones on one side are about 1/2" longer than they need to be, so would like to get shorter ones, but I don't have them out yet to take to stoer and compare. 10.9 grade right? Byas
×
×
  • Create New...