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About peterschop

  • Birthday December 20

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  1. Paul, I picked up a driveshaft for my OD 5 speed conversion a couple of years ago that ended up being 1/2" too long to fit and i could not use it. I still have it if you need it. It turns out that is was from a CR car. It measures 59.75 inches and has a four bolt flange. I'll send you a message.
  2. The first thing I would check is where the shift lever sticks through the floor as Mike mentioned. There should be a doughnut shaped foam gasket that seals the fumes from entering the cabin.
  3. I found two or three chunks of broken door brake material in the bottom of my doors. I replaced mine with a set from FAQ list member Harry6422. He selling them on ebay for $120 a set. Not a BMW design but they work good and I have no complaints. I don't think it would be worthwhile to take the time to try to fix an old brake.
  4. So far so good. Rear end is quite and tranny shifts easily. The only thing of concern for me is that after the transmission warms up, I can hear a whine in the upper RPM's before shifting from 2nd to 3rd. I am running MT-85 75W-85, I wonder if a heavier fluid would help?
  5. I have been using Hagerty for about 14 years now and thankfully never filed a claim. I bought it through my local insurance agent who told me about Hagerty. They are listed as the agent. The policy is underwritten by Essentia Insurance Company. The policy also list Hagerty as the agent and Essentia as the insurance company. So does this mean that Hagerty is just an agent who deals with one or more insurance companies for it's policies? I pay my premium directly to Hagerty. Arminyack, good luck and I am hoping that they make good on your claim without too much hassle. If not, I may have to rethink my insurance preferences.
  6. Mike, that should work just fine, as long as the head of the bolt is flat on the washer. Tom, my washers measure 1.290 inches. They are the ones that came with the new ST bars. As far as I know, I have the original arms on my car or at least they look like it.
  7. Hmm, where did you get the control arms? I didn't have that problem, something doesn't look right. Compare your old arms to the new ones. Are the holes in the same place, is the inside arm width the same? Maybe the washers are just too big. I crawled under my car for a few shots but my phone is too tall for a good shot without lifting the car.
  8. Yesterday I repaired the wacko speedo. The fix was quite easy with the guidance Mike and FunkyLaneO. After the gauge was out of the cluster, it only took about five minutes to fix. I only needed a 22mm wrench to remove the nut and a small screwdriver for two screws. I did not take the odometer drive off since that already worked. What had happened was that the magnetic disc slid forward on the shaft and was contacting the receiver sending the needle to it's limits. All I did was push the disc back flush with the end of the shaft with my fingers. I did not take it all the way off and use red loctite as in the video. If it happens again, I will locktite it. Now that my "magnetic eddy currents" are back in order, and the gauge is back where it belongs, the speedometer works the way it should. I checked the speed for accuracy with a gps app and it appears to be about 3 MPH too fast around 45 to 60. The rear of the speedometer was marked with W=1.30. My spare speedo seemed to be right on the money as far as speed. It was marked W=1.28. Back cover removed after taking off 22mm nut On the left is the drive with the magnetic disc that has slid forward on the shaft. You can see on the right where the disc has worn into the receiver.
  9. PeterCS, another thing to check is your fuel filter. If it is clogged, your engine will starve for fuel. After the engine shuts down, the fuel can seep past the fuel filter and run again. One way to check after the engine quits is to pull the fuel line off by carburetor and put the end of the line in a gallon milk jug. Crank the engine and see how much fuel is coming out. If it is only a trickle, it could be the pump or fuel filter. A dirty filter may cause the engine to die while driving but continue to run while idling.
  10. Ahh, the plot thickens! Is that a real Blue coil or is that a Mexican Blue coil? The article says the Brazil Blue coil is 3.4 ohms on the primary side but does not say what the silver label Mexican coil measures. The article is written for VW's and their Black coil which does not need a ballast resistor is different from the BMW Black coil which is anywhere from 0.9 to 1.2 ohms on the primary side. PeterCS should measure the primary side of the coil to see if it is the right one. To do that, Measure with an ohm meter from the (-) to the (+) side and it should be around 3.4 ohms. If so, it should be the correct coil without a ballast resistor.
  11. Since you have a '74 North American car, it should have come with the resistor wire (is this true for Canadian cars?) Since you are running a Blue coil, you should not run the resistor wire. It looks the resistor wire is one of the unplugged wires in your picture. It is the one that you can see the wire strands through the yellowish/clear insulation. Also I believe the black/purple wire powers the coil when the key is turned to start and overrides the resistor wire. The PO must have run a 12 volt wire directly to the coil and unplugged the other two wires since that is what the Blue coil needs. So this is correct for the coil you are running and you can rule out a corroded resistor. This still does not answer why the engine cuts out though.
  12. Jason, it was fun. Even though my speedo said 120 mph, it felt more like 20 mph with that disoriented driver in front of us. I am glad to hear everything's good between you and your wife. I mean after bringing her to Chicago for her birthday and then taking off to go to Vintage Fest and then stopping for more 02 parts for my car on the way back. I hope you were able to make the show on time. As for the speedometer, I replaced it with a spare of unknown condition. After a drive, I found that the spare works but the odometer doesn't. I will repair the one I took out, swap and then repair the spare.
  13. Thanks for the article Mike and great video Funky. This could also explain why my speedo has been reading fast.
  14. What's in your distributor, points or electronic? Your symptoms sounds like the one I was having a few years ago. I replaced the coil with no difference in the results. I put in a new Pertronix, problem solved. The Pertronix is nothing more than an electronic switch, heat is it's enemy.
  15. So I was driving back from Vintage Fest today on Chicago side streets in slow traffic when my speedometer decided it wanted to take off. I was only doing about 25mph when I looked down and saw it hovering from around 120mph, going past the 630 mark and all the way to the peg. My fellow 02 passenger said he had seen this before and It could break the peg off if I continue to drive it like that so I disconnected the speedo cable. He said something about magnets in the speedometer had come loose? After I disconnected the cable, it continued to read 45mph, slowly going down to 25 by the time I got home with the cable disconnected. A little background on this speedometer. After I replaced the automatic transmission with a G245, the speedo always read high. When I checked it with a gps app I found it reads about 20mph high at 45 and the level of error increases the faster I drive. What's going and can this be fixed? This is a 1974 with a 3.64 rear end.
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