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  1. I'm making a custom fuel rail to fit my E30 318i M10 engine, intake manifold. I need to know the exact angle that the injectors sit relative to the fuel rail.EXACT number only please, no guessing!Thanks!
  2. So I'm prepping for the EFI swap on the 02 and the only part I'm uncertain of is injector sizing. I've tried the search tool but there doesn't seem to be any concrete advice on size or EV1 vs EV6 injectors. I was thinking about using either 22 lb/hr orange injectors off a 4.6L ford or the 24 lb/hr blue injectors off a 5.0L ford. The only issue with that is EV1 or EV6 style injectors!? Does anyone know if the only differences between the two are the plug style and the 4 hole on the EV6 vs pintle on the EV1 or are the bodies different heights as well? I want to interface with the stock 318i fuel rail. Any advice would be much appreciated.
  3. Is anyone able to help me identify this BMW throttle body? - It has a BMW mark cast into the body but no BMW parts number that I can find - The butterfly is 50mm in diameter - The bolt pattern is 70mm (wide) by 65mm (tall) bolt center to bolt center (see photos of gasket) - It came fitted to a BAE/Century turbo intake manifold, but no guarantee that it is the original type supplied with the kit - There are no provisions for a TPS Are there other things that would help identify it? Click on the pics for larger version with greater detail. Thanks!
  4. Anyone have a complete bundle of parts for a MFI M10 to EFI conversion that they want to part with? Located in San Jose, CA
  5. I have a 1972 2002 with a Weber carb. Bone stock for the most part minus an electric fuel pump and the carb. I found a guy who lives really close to me selling what looks like a tii intake and injection setup. He said he was going to convert his 2002 but doesn't have the time. He also says he's not sure what it's worth so I would make an offer. Is it even worth it? I've had some tuning and fuel issues with my carb so I was thinking why the heck not spend some money and get my hands dirty with a new project. So my questions are.... Is it worth it? Will I need to buy a lot more (everything is pictured) and if it is, how much should I offer him? Thanks Colby
  6. Good morning. I just recently completed my EFI conversion to a Bosch LH 2.2 system from a mid 80's Volvo 240. I followed 02Coastie's awesome post and it was an easy conversion. Here's 02Coasties original post..... My 2002 runs and drives great, but its running lean under load. My AEM wideband O2 sensor is reading low 15's to low 16's under heavy load, which is bad. Under partial and light load its in the high 14's. During idle the reading is in the high 13's. Here is what my 2002 is running. Stock, worn engine. Vacuum advance dizzy Bosch LH 2.2 Jetronic 544 ECU and wire harness, TPS, MAF sensor from a 1986 Volvo 240 Stock Volvo 2.3L fuel injectors New coolant temp sensor Bosch fuel pump from a Volvo 240 Turbo Fuel Pressure Regulator from a E30 325i I am not running an Oxygen Sensor, because I'm running the wideband, so I'm assuming this might be the issue. If there's anyone out there that knows these Bosch systems better than I do I'd love for you to chime in on what may be causing this. Other than this issue, the car is running very well. Thanks, and a safe Holiday weekend to all. P.S. I tried posting this on the TurboBricks forum, but my account wouldn't let me post for some reason...
  7. Good morning. I just recently completed my EFI conversion to a Bosch LH 2.2 system from a mid 80's Volvo 240. I followed 02Coastie's awesome post and it was an easy conversion. Here's 02Coasties original post..... My 2002 runs and drives great, but its running lean under load. My AEM wideband O2 sensor is reading low 15's to low 16's under heavy load, which is bad. Under partial and light load its in the high 14's. During idle the reading is in the high 13's. Here is what my 2002 is running. Stock, worn engine. Vacuum advance dizzy Bosch LH 2.2 Jetronic ECU and wire harness, TPS, MAF sensor from a 1986 Volvo 240 Stock Volvo 2.3L fuel injectors New coolant temp sensor Bosch fuel pump from a Volvo 240 Turbo Fuel Pressure Regulator from a E30 325i I am not running an Oxygen Sensor, because I'm running the wideband, so I'm assuming this might be the issue. If there's anyone out there that knows these Bosch systems better than I do I'd love for you to chime in on what may be causing this. Other than this issue, the car is running very well. Thanks, and a safe Holiday weekend to all.
  8. Evening, I finally got my hands on a tii air cleaner, but alas, it was missing the mounts. Could I bother someone for dimensions. I get the idea from the diagrams, and some overly expensive ebay pics, but am missing dimensions. They seem to have gone NLA 12 and 15 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2583-USA---114-BMW-2002tii&diagId=13_0690 I should be able to plasma cut some, and would be willing to share the cad models for others once complete (or cut some for a small fee) probably be a little back and forth. Thanks for any help you can give Allan
  9. I have researched the forum on various solutions for the NO Turn Signal issues. This is where I m at: Fuse ok Voltage across fuse block on fuse #6 ok cleaned all contacts on all bulbs (all lights work except turn signals) replaced relay with EL13 relay and harness (P,L,X wires connected to stock plug) on the turn lever switch (mounted on the stalk) volt meter on the solid green wire I have 12v on the turn lever switch volt meter on the green/yellow wire I have nothing. Is the stalk switch bad? The flashers of course do not work. Is there a way to bypass the turn lever (stalk) switch to determine if its bad? Can these switches be rebuilt if it is? Hoping to take the 2002 to the Vintage - would really like functioning turn signals. Any ideas or help is much appreciated. Thanks John
  10. Just picked my car up at Midnight Motorsport. Patrick has had it for the last few weeks while he worked on a megasquirt conversion and a few other loosely related projects. I helped a little bit with disassembly. This is pretty much where Patrick took over. Now it looks like this; Not obvious in the shot is the upgrade to an 85a e30 alternator and edis ignition. I really like the crinkle paint on the intake manifold, valve cover, and water neck. Battery is in the trunk now; And so is the fuel filler; I won't miss the akward crouch and 1/2 speed fill ups at the pump. Added a full suite of Innovate MTX gauges to match my AFR gauge; Unfortunately, the water temp is reading 11-13 degrees high compared to the Megasquirt sensor. These gauges are dual function with the left gauge showing oil pressure on the numerical readout and oil temp around the perimeter, center gauge is water temp on the numerical readout and volts around the perimeter. Drive home was on the freeway, then I went for a quick backroad drive. Wow, what a difference! More low end torque and lots more top end power than before. I used to shift around 5k under full throttle, but there's another .5-1k of usable power band now and it gets there a lot quicker. Interesting side note was the pretty significant decrease in engine noise. I'm guessing this is reduced induction noise. Sounds great still, but I should be less fatigued after a long drive. I'm really pleased with the final result and Patrick did a great job with all the details. He was also able to get it running well an hour after first start, and pretty well tuned after a couple hours of me driving him around earlier this week.
  11. Help, I installed a new 535i fuel pump in my 74 Tii. I can hear it working, but can't get fuel to injection pump
  12. Hi There Fellow ´02ers :-) I have just installed an old 36-40 PDSI from the stockpile on my freshly rebuilt 2002 motor (stock except is has tii 9.5:1 pistons). All jets are checked and found to be correct/stock 2 liter sizes, choke as well. Idle is really sweet, but when it leaves idle, it begins to run just a little too lean. Like lambda 1.00 - 1.04 according to my innovate LM-1. Full throttle is okay at about lambda 0.93. I wouldn't mind it being just a tad richer, like down in the eighties, but it's okay. Acc pumps seams to work just fine. How do I get part throttle / main system just a tad richer ? Tinker with the washer on the float or should I try "drilling" the main jet? Thanks! :-)
  13. Here's a good one for you all to noodle on... Has anyone here accurately established the optimum injector timing / degree's for Opening Before Top Dead Center? This is one of the final fine tuning adjustments I would like to complete prior to my Dyno Testing. I have read many theories on injector opening 10Degrees Before Top Dead Center or 10 Degree After Intake Valve closes. The application is a Megasquirt 3X EFI Forced Induction M10 with let's call it a stock cam profile. So, 1) At what degree does the intake valve open before top dead center on a stock cam? 2) From a forced induction perspective where would you recommend the injector start before top dead center of the stock cam profile? This is beyond my experience / capabilities of calculating on my own and looking for and direct experiences or better yet help in figuring / calculating this. Thoughts? Recommendations? Experiences?
  14. I remember seeing a post where someone had listed all the fuel line sizes and approx lengths required for replacement purposes. However I cannot find it for the life of me and so I have made my own list below. If anyone knows of the top of their head, then can you please write the lengths against each one please? I would like to work out how much I need to purchase. I am not near my car for a few weeks else I would have measured. 1) 12mm hose fuel tank to electric pump 2) 8mm hose from pump/accumulator to steel line near passenger side 3) 8mm hose at front panel from steel line to fuel filter 4) 8mm hose from fuel filter to KF pump 5) 8mm hose from KF pump to cold start valve 6) 8mm hose return from KF pump to firewall I am thinking of replacing it with this (except for the 12mm one) - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-16-8MM-NYLON-STAINLESS-STEEL-BRAIDED-PTFE-TEFLON-FUEL-HOSE-LINE-1M-BLACK-/281748240222?hash=item419980f75e:g:m6QAAOSwmtJXWTME Anyone see anything wrong with this? Regards, Raj
  15. After much research into ways to build a power distribution box for an EFI conversion, I settled on using an existing OEM fuse/relay box, one that could be easily reconfigured to suit. The unit is a Rear Power Distribution Box from a 2001 Jaguar S-Type. It has an input stud that you can connect directly to the battery and from there, relays and fuses can be set up the way you want, fairly easily. All the terminals can be removed very easily (once you figure out how the terminal retention is designed). I cut and soldered some of the interconnections to minimize the rats nest but you don't have to, if you get a sufficient length of the harness with the box. I now have it configured for: An ignition switched relay to power the ECU, fused A relay that will be turned on by the ECU ("fuel pump relay") Three fused 40A relays that are switched on by the single fuel pump relay A fan-out to nine fused outputs off the three 40A relays Two additional 40A relays as spares, fused, for something like a radiator fan, etc. These boxes are readily available on ebay or at the junkyard. I think I paid $20, including shipping, loaded with all the relays and fuses. What you see in the photographs below is what's left after I pulled out all the terminals and fuses I don't need. Hope this proves useful to others.
  16. Hi, I've concocted a design for a cam sensor that plugs into the distributor location. Before I cut any metal, I'd like to get your collective thoughts to make sure I haven't done anything untoward, design-wise. There are three machined parts - shaft, housing and cap. The rest are off the shelf items (McMaster or elsewhere); a donor gear is required from a 2002 distributor. The shaft is a light press into the bearing and can be either tapped into place or heat shrunk but there's also a snap ring at the top for added measure. The cap sandwiches the bearing in place into the housing. A flanged cast bronze bushing provides lower radial and thrust support. An oil seal keeps things dry but could be optional, depending on how oil climbs up the shaft. I didn't want to machine an oil groove along the shaft, due to cost. External O-ring is at the stock location The max diameter of the housing is 38 mm, as is the height of the cap, so pretty compact overall. I realize there are simpler ways to achieve cam sensing by modifying a distributor housing but... Thanks!
  17. Hi, I've been considering a GS101205 Hall sensor for the cam position sensor I'm working on and I saw today that Newark has a sale on it. Typical pricing is around $24-$28 at the usual distributors but Newark has them for just over $10. I bought two (you can never have enough Hall sensors :-)) These have a 150 C temperature rating and a 10 kHz bandwidth. They are also more compact on the mounting flange dimension. You do need a Delphi GT150.2 connector but I think I'll be able to find one at the junkyard (new ones are available too). Link below: http://www.newark.com/zf-cherry/gs101205/gear-tooth-speed-sensor/dp/34P4220?ost=gs101205&selectedCategoryId=&categoryNameResp=All%2BCategories&iscrfnonsku=false
  18. Hi, Has anybody looked into adapting the toyota 4 age blacktop itbs to mate to the E30 1.8 head? The bore pitch (spacing) is only 0.5mm out? Obviously it comes down to the position of the manifold bolts and those that secure the itbs to the manifold. These itbs are pretty cheap... My head here has the injector bosses on the intake manifold. I will model it up but I am after a cad file for the intake of this head then I will find the pattern for bolting the 4age itbs to it. Can anybody help me with a cad file? Many Thanks Karl
  19. Sorry, I have a noob megasquirt/EDIS question about timing and can’t seem to find any info through searching; if you know of a link, please let me know. I’m getting my MSII/V3.0 engine mocked up with a 02Again 36-1 wheel, and can’t see how you guys are checking timing. I’ve marked the tooth that relates to TDC (see picture), but how are you checking advance? It’s my understanding that a dial-back timing light will not work with an EDIS setup due to the wasted spark. From http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm, “Note that most timing lights that let you set the timing with a dial and read the alignment of fixed TDC marks with the strobe will not work with EDIS. This is because these timing lights use the time between sparks to compute the engine speed and advance, but the EDIS wasted spark is giving sparks twice as often as the timing light expects for a given rpm. If you have a 'dial back' timing light, set the dial to zero and use a degreed damper or timing tape to view the advance.” Have you made a timing tab to read off of the original timing point? I’m contemplating machining a wheel that mounts to the front of the 02Again pulley that I would put a strip of MSD timing tape on. I’d love to see some pictures of what you guys running the 36-1 wheel have come up with. Thanks! Brendan
  20. Does anybody have an advance curve that is anywhere close to a 292 Cam'd, Dual DCOE M10, preferably a 3D one using TPS? Maybe some of you 123tune guys?
  21. Hello everyone, I was in the process of converting my little m10 to EFI and turbocharging it but I've moved onto another project. I regretfully am selling all the bits and bobs needed to convert your 2002 and boost your hp/torque numbers, making the already thrilling '02 into something a little scarier. I never installed any parts onto my car, most are new and in their original packaging. The people have spoken and I have listened so I am now going to split everything up! SHIPPING INCLUDED to lower 48. Please read through the list of parts below and let me know if you have any questions. Prices are OBO, I'm just trying to recover most of what I had into them. PM or email me: colehanson4@gmail.com More pics and info upon request Thanks for looking, Cole bosch brown injectors off saab 2.3 turbo(untested): $40 for 5 BMW 325e Throttle Body: $50 BMW 325e TB to e30 manifold adapter: $50 1990 325i in tank fuel pump: $80 M10 turbo Exhaust manifold: $190 Fuse/Relay Box: $15 GM IAT sensor: $25 MS Wiring Harness: $85 MS Stimulator for MSII V3.0: $50 MSII V3.0: $540 e30 Battery Cables for trunk mount: $25 e30 coolant neck and sensors: $30 02Again FP blockoff plate: $25 02Again Crank Pulley/Trigger wheel: $200 02Again Ford EDIS-4 VR sensor locating mount: $20 02Again IAC Adapter: $75 Jeep IAC for e30 manifold: $25 25ft High Pressure Fuel Hose: $85 10ft 60psi 1/8" inner diameter Vacuum hose: $35 Innovate LC2 wideband 02 Sensor kit: $190 ARP m10 Head Studs: $190 90mm Cometic MLS Head Gasket: $170 m10 exhaust gasket: $30 Ford EDIS-4 & wiring: $50 E30 water bypass hoses and misc piping: $40 Extra 36-1 Ford EDIS Trigger wheel(just the toothed ring): $20
  22. I just got my 123 distributor and holy cow did is wake up my car. It took 10 minutes to install and I was driving it. Absolutely the best money I’ve spent. I plugged in a few different curves I read on here, and ended up using the curve below, and my car loves it. It is a basically stock w/ fresh 121 head and LH 2.2 conversion. My question is what type of curve would benefit an EFI car vs carbed? Thanks for any advice
  23. Hi all, i recently completed an s14 swap using a surplus programable EFI system from SDS which I had. My s14 did not come with a wiring harness or ECU so using the SDS made lots sense. It is a simple system that is also used heavily in kit aircraft so I believe the reliability is solid. The setup using ITB based enrichment rather than MAP based. the car starts and runs fine for 20 minutes or so at which point it will stall and then will no longer run. it seems to me that there is a fuel issue at that point but I am leaning towards injectors as right before the condition presents my AEM WB02 and gauge start going haywire. I have confirmed fuel pressure, plugs, injectors filter are all good. thoughts on steps to troubleshoot? TIA anthony
  24. HI, I'm new to the forum so first post is a need for help shout out! I have installed EFI on my stock M10 motor, Megasquirt 2 and EDIS all good. Tach output is the issue, I have used the recommended wiring from the coils, diodes/zener and resistors which has worked for others. I have tried 2 02 tachs with no luck. I stuck my e9 tach on and that got a signal (albeit low reading). Does anyone have insite into what output to the tach I should be seeing (I measure 0.5v which seems really low?) Secondly, is there any way to bench test the tach? The second tach I have was working some years ago. Thanks in advance.
  25. what a cracking product at a good price - reckon these will sell like hot cakes on a cold day. Such a new product I can't see it on their main web site, just their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/jenveydynamics/?hc_ref=NEWSFEED
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