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  1. I spent most of 2014 installing the engine and trans, finishing and fine tuning the Megasquirt installation, and a bunch of other miscellaneous tasks to get it ready to turn the key for the first time. Also a million and one other "while I'm there" jobs like LED bulbs for the dash, securing the oversize spare wheel, fixing the hood support, etc., etc.,... Then it was off to a local dyno shop for tuning with some great results for a first effort. Installing Engine Wiring The part I dislike the most. It's tedious and I suck at it. Wiring errors and "on the job learning" is perhaps
  2. This is the continuation of the Megasquirt/EDIS installation article found here (which I apparently ran out of article room in): This article will focus specifically on how to tune an EFI installation on your 2002. It will focus on Megasquirt as the example (since that is what I installed on my car and thus am most familiar with), but the general process is still applicable to other type of EFI setups. Note: Before you ask, no, I will NOT share my actual *.msq files. That's a great way for an amateur to screw up their engine by 'just trying.' I will however share and explain scre
  3. So, this project has been on hold for a while as my next big step is to really learn how to properly tune MegaSquirt, and I just haven't had the time to commit to that. But, I had a couple hours today which I spent casting a proper delete plate for my distributor. This is my first sand casting using a core (to create the hollow for the cam end). You'll see there's a little divot at the upper left. This is where I can drill and tap for the oil pressure sender, although I may end up moving that over to the oil filter housing. That's it for now
  4. So, I've been busy selling off some of my cars, and haven't really been giving this project as much time as I'd like. But, I managed to finish the wiring harness and start the engine this week. I've updated the wiring diagram in the first post to reflect the current configuration. After the successful start, I'm taking some time to reconfigure my engine stand set-up so that it will be less ad hoc during the tuning phase. Here is an overview shot of the engine as it sits this evening: I ended up going with pencil coils on plug from a 2003-04 Honda CBR600RR mo
  5. So, this week I found time to finish machining my 36-1 teeth into the stock pulley and cast two more pieces for the EFI conversion. First is a bracket to hold the crank sensor from DIY AutoTune: Second is a small plate with a port to connect to a Suzuki Swift IAC (idle air control) valve. I'm not 100% sure that this IAC will allow enough air flow for the M10, considering it's from an engine with half the volume, but I had one easily at hand, so I'm giving it a try. I'm going to mount it to the underside of the intake using two pre-existing bosses and a custom
  6. So, my first specific task towards converting my M10 over to EFI was to draw up a wiring diagram for my MegaSquirt-based (more specifically, MicroSquirt v2.2 based) Stratified PNP ECU: I will update this image as I continue to refine the diagram (updated 5/22/18 to correct coil wiring). There are few enough wires involved that I can use just the big 26-pin plug going into the OEM-style connector on the ECU. I'm using the TPS from a 1984-89 Nissan 300ZX with the adapter from 02again that allows that TPS to screw right onto the BMW throttle body:
  7. When I was running the engine on the stand, I used the default tables and only modified a handful of settings specifically to the engine. It started and ran "fine" that way. Once I moved everything into the vehicle and was ready to actually start tuning, I wanted to establish a more rational baseline to work from. The very first thing I did was upgrade my MegaSquirt firmware to the latest version. Mine was very old (3.1.0 vs. 3.4.2), and this change alone made the engine run noticeably better. I then made changes to the settings and tables following the approach of Andy Whittle on YouTube. Las
  8. **I DID NOT PAINT IT OLIVE DRAB GREEN THE PREVIOUS OWNER DID** I just completed my fuel injection today!! This should have been my first upgrade. Ive been slowly collecting everything and the weather was in the 50s today which for spokane is unheard of, it should be in the 20s. I chose the lh2.2 because it was cheap and simple. Wiring makes my head hurt just thinking about it, so the plug and play-ness was quite appealing. not counting the battery relocation, it took me about 6 hours for everything. I scored big time on a throttle cable bracket which seemed like it was going to be
  9. As I suspected, the Geo Metro air control valve did not move enough air for the m10 engine. So, I got a Ford style valve and installed it. Now the engine starts and idles as it should. Here are the details of my installation. 1. I made this steel bracket to mount the IAC under the first and second tubes of the intake. You'll note that I had to grind that nubbin down a little to clear the valve body: 2. Here is the Ford idle control valve mounted to the bracket. I have this thin wall tube that has an outer diameter that is exactly 16mm. I slid short lengths of it in
  10. This sub-project was a case of "because it's there". I'm not a seasoned mechanic by any means so this was definitely a challenge for me, but that was half the fun. I know which is the business end of a spanner/wrench, but this was a major escalation in terms of goals. I learnt a lot in the process, and made mistakes. It has been very satisfying to pull it all together. It started as a complete front suspension and steering rebuild, and snowballed from there. As I was dropping the subframe anyway, I decided the motor and trans would come out too for a cosmetic clean up. The dual DCOE carbs wer
  11. Hi all, so here's the background; i'm in the final stages of my resto on my 73 tii roundie, i'm on final pre start checks and i noticed coolant on the floor under my 02. i trace it to the bottom of the warm up regulator, checked the hoses attached at either side are tight which they were (and brand new), i crawl under and watch for a bit after removing the radiator cap, i spot the drip coming out of the seam on the bottom of the WUR, between the cast body and alu. cap on the bottom. about 6 months ago i had my k.fisch and wur tested and checked over in england ( i'm in New Zealand) and the test results were good, and WUR was working "very well". from reading some posts here, it looks like im in need of a replacement WUR but with my dwindling budget i want to know A) considering my WUR works well, can it be fixed at a reasonable cost? and by who or what profession? B.) i am having a hard time finding one in NZ( they're like unicorns here), where is the most reasonably price stockist of refurbed or good working cond. WUR's? like normal, if you have any advice, .02c or pointers i'm all ears. thanks in advance, julian
  12. I just got my 123 distributor and holy cow did is wake up my car. It took 10 minutes to install and I was driving it. Absolutely the best money I’ve spent. I plugged in a few different curves I read on here, and ended up using the curve below, and my car loves it. It is a basically stock w/ fresh 121 head and LH 2.2 conversion. My question is what type of curve would benefit an EFI car vs carbed? Thanks for any advice
  13. Hello everyone, I was in the process of converting my little m10 to EFI and turbocharging it but I've moved onto another project. I regretfully am selling all the bits and bobs needed to convert your 2002 and boost your hp/torque numbers, making the already thrilling '02 into something a little scarier. I never installed any parts onto my car, most are new and in their original packaging. I'd like to keep the lot together to make shipping easier but if this post sits for a while, I'll start to split things up. Buyer pays shipping and we can go through PayPal. Please read through the list of parts below and let me know if you have any questions. Price is OBO, PM or email me: [email protected] Thanks for looking, Cole MS2 V3.0 set up for running Ford EDIS-4, stim and RS232 cable included DIY Autotune Harness with 90% of the wires cut/sized/soldered Innovate LC2 Wideband O2 kit with weldable bung E30 water bypass tube E30 coolant temp sensor housing E30 intake manifold with 325e throttle body Hyundai Elantra throttle position sensor and adapter Bosh Volvo 33lb injectors GM intake air temp sensor Jeep IAC stepper motor and 02Again mounting hardware Ford Escort EDIS-4, VR sensor w/ 02Again mounting bracket, extra 36-1 trigger wheel and coil pack/wires 02Again 36-1 trigger wheel/pulley 02Again distributor plug 02Again fuel pump block off plate 1990 325i in tank fuel pump E30 battery cables for trunk mounting your battery Garrett T25 rebuilt turbo with 3" down pipe adapter flange****needs to be balanced***(at least I would have it professionally done before installing) Misc oil feed pipes for T25 Stainless Steel Turbo headers/gasket and adapter for T25 ARP head studs for M10 Cometic MLS head gasket 27"x7"x2.5" intercooler with 2.5" pipe kit(aluminum pipe/fittings/clamps/silicone elbows and straight pieces) 2.5" Universal BOV and aluminum pipe with flange I believe this is everything I have but I may have missed mentioning some miscellaneous E30 things included
  14. Hello everyone, I was in the process of converting my little m10 to EFI and turbocharging it but I've moved onto another project. I regretfully am selling all the bits and bobs needed to convert your 2002 and boost your hp/torque numbers, making the already thrilling '02 into something a little scarier. I never installed any parts onto my car, most are new and in their original packaging. The people have spoken and I have listened so I am now going to split everything up! SHIPPING INCLUDED to lower 48. Please read through the list of parts below and let me know if you have any questions. Prices are OBO, I'm just trying to recover most of what I had into them. PM or email me: [email protected] More pics and info upon request Thanks for looking, Cole bosch brown injectors off saab 2.3 turbo(untested): $40 for 5 BMW 325e Throttle Body: $50 BMW 325e TB to e30 manifold adapter: $50 1990 325i in tank fuel pump: $80 M10 turbo Exhaust manifold: $190 Fuse/Relay Box: $15 GM IAT sensor: $25 MS Wiring Harness: $85 MS Stimulator for MSII V3.0: $50 MSII V3.0: $540 e30 Battery Cables for trunk mount: $25 e30 coolant neck and sensors: $30 02Again FP blockoff plate: $25 02Again Crank Pulley/Trigger wheel: $200 02Again Ford EDIS-4 VR sensor locating mount: $20 02Again IAC Adapter: $75 Jeep IAC for e30 manifold: $25 25ft High Pressure Fuel Hose: $85 10ft 60psi 1/8" inner diameter Vacuum hose: $35 Innovate LC2 wideband 02 Sensor kit: $190 ARP m10 Head Studs: $190 90mm Cometic MLS Head Gasket: $170 m10 exhaust gasket: $30 Ford EDIS-4 & wiring: $50 E30 water bypass hoses and misc piping: $40 Extra 36-1 Ford EDIS Trigger wheel(just the toothed ring): $20
  15. Currently I have the stock Ford coil running on my EDIS. While it works fine, I don't like the plug wires at all and choices are very limited given that the terminals are odd-ball. I know some folks have also used the Accel 140028 coil but I've been unable to find one in the US (as they were fitted to Euro spec cars only.) Anybody know another coil that can work in place of the Accel unit that is a plug and play for the EDIS but has standard plug wire sockets? Thanks.
  16. I'll post pics once I get things pulled apart, but my JB Welded EDIS trigger wheel just failed today at a very inconvenient time. I drive the car daily and have had it on for 4 years. Obviously it is not a long term solution! I have one of these on the way now: http://www.02again.com/?page_id=358
  17. Looking for info regarding MegaSquirt setup and if anyone is running coil packs instead a distributor on the M10 motor. Thanks in advance. Doug M ny country
  18. If you get a little confused like me, by magamanual.com and msextra.com, I think you'll like this site. http://www.extraefi.co.uk/support.htm
  19. Doing the computer side of the MS install has always been my downfall. The mechanical side comes fairly easily, but setting up the software is just not my cup of tea.. I've been running MSII for the last 2 1/2 years and have never updated the code version. I've wanted to start using Tuner Studio instead of MegaTune, so decided this would be a good time to move to a more up-to-date code version. I loaded version 2.891 and everything seemed to go fine. However, when I turned the key to where I was getting 12V switched (not cranking) the fuel pump would continually cycled on and off (whereas it normally would just prime for a second or so and then shut off.) Someone on the MS forum suggested that for codes 2.8 and above I'd need to create a new MSQ from scratch, something I really didn't want to have to do. So, I tried to revert back to an older software version but I keep getting faults as I try to upload it, saying that it gets a record block during verification. Now I'm stuck with a fuel pump that cycles improperly and only partially loaded software. What the hell should I try next? I'm thoroughly confused and frustrated.
  20. To those of you out there that have done it. Do you like it and was it worth doing it? What was the ultimate end result HP and torque? Also the end cost involved? Was it also relatively easy to do or rather not too complicated? I'm considering doing this transformation and rid of my side draft set up. But want o know more about what I may be getting involved in. I have mechanical aptitude so that isn't the worry, it's whether it is worth it or not over carbs. Thanks for any and all input
  21. I thought I would throw this out there. I am preparing to convert my ignition to use the Sniper EFI computer, and I need to build a Mag trigger wheel. I can't afford the downtime on the car while my fabricator makes one to fit my pulley. It can't be the 36-2 type like from 02 Again, It needs to be blank so I can insert magnets into it. All the MSD and aftermarket ones are too big as they are based on ford or small block chev's, and no imports (that I can find) use this type of trigger. Does anyone have one they can lend me? I can put a deposit on it. I just don't want to have one kicking around and I am sure that it can be put to use on somebody's car ( or your car if you are holding onto it) . I wouldn't need it more than about a week. Any other sources of information to fabricate one would be great!, I just don't have the dimensions to work with. Even if someone has a blank wheel that can fit the pulley would be awesome. I can make the rest. Thanks in advance
  22. I have a mid 80's 325e that a got by mistake. I was looking for a 325is throttle body and got this by mistake. Appears to work properly, not sure about Tps .Perfect for a fuel injection upgrade. $40includes shipping to the lower 48 states.
  23. I'm about to make this change as it will permit easier tuning of ITB's. However, I'm confused by what seem to be conflicting bits of information that I'm reading. Specifically, in the MSExtra download info it says NOT to start with a blank tune but rather to work from a prior version or one will risk creating all sorts of issues. However, I have also read that older MS2 files cannot be transferred over to MSExtra, rather they need to be created from scratch. Can anybody with experience tell me the best way to move from a nicely tuned MS2 program to MS2/Extra? Thanks in advance.
  24. Anybody know witch version of MS can read the crank sensor direct and not relay on Edis4 to help out with ignition. I'm curntly using 2.2ms with ed is ignition controller I want to rid my system of waist spark?
  25. So I am having a weird issue with my MS system where it goes offline and I am going through and revising my grounds. For years, I had everything grounded to the body, and that worked well. Since then, I've moved the primary ground for the MS relay board to the head, and that has helped, but as I gather, I should move the edis and coilpack grounds to the head as well. Is that correct? Also, should I ground my LC-1 somewhere else, such as to the body? Thanks. Colin
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