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bnam

Solex
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Everything posted by bnam

  1. Has anyone measured the difference in hp consumption between the various alternator outputs? How much more does the 55, 85, 130 etc consume?
  2. The cable looks like a drive for a Halda Rally computer or similar.
  3. Is there no way to remove the EPA sticker from the door? without the sticker disintegrating? Perhaps put clear tape over the sticker and then heat and blade underneath?
  4. Will the slave cylinder work properly if mounted inverted? If it will, will that help with clearance to upper nut?
  5. It looks molded because it has conformed to the inside of the seat cover over time. Pretty sure it is a foam cut roughly to shape (see pic of underside and note uneven edges). Molded foam is typically higher density. At any rate, I've used a very similar green foam when restoring the seats on my 71 vw. B
  6. Can you send me pics of front bumper?
  7. Ended up sending the driveshaft to IE for a rebuild. I could get a CSB for about $40 and shortening was $65, but Driveline would not repair just the one bad u-joint, they will only repair both together taking cost to $500 all-in or $100 and live with bad u-joint. So decided to get the rebuild from IE.
  8. Who carries Febi? Does Ireland or blunt or 2002haus? Oreilly carries The CSB, but I wonder which brand. They said it was their National brand. Napa carries a Napa brand with skf bearing. Thx!
  9. The local shop will shorten for $60. If the u joints were ok, I could have replaced the CSB myself and then get it shortened and balanced. Can I replace the u-joints myself? The BMW kit is ~$80, but what equipment will I need? What brand of CSB is recommended? BMW is $250+ just for CSB.
  10. My Tii had a factory replacement engine installed at some time in its past. So, it does not seem to be uncommon.
  11. The driveshaft on my Tii hadn't been shortened enough when the PO converted it to 5-spd. As a result, even after pushing the pumpkin far back as it would go, the driveshaft put enough pressure to distort the guibo and (as I found out today) the Center bearing. Surprisingly, it worked fine for the past 3K miles that I've had it and for the few thousands the PO had put on. Even with a tear in the guibo and in the CSB. It had been on my to-do list. Finally pulled it out today and took it to Drive Line Svcs in Sac. It needed to be shortened by close to 1/2". But, it turns out the U-joints are not in good shape either. Replacing u-joints, CSB, shortening, balancing runs close to $500. I think it ill be cheaper to buy a new shortened one. Ireland offers them. Anyone else I should consider? Byas
  12. I meant the front blinkers -- at the light. Remove the 2 screws to remove the front blinker, swap the wires and try.
  13. The second issue -- that's the exact symptom you have when the wires in the front flasher have been interchanged. Easy check -- pull-out the the front flasher and interchange the wires there and see if the problem goes away. Byas
  14. It's possible to get it out of the car with the heater in place. I've removed, cleaned, and reinstalled. I did not remove the pins though.
  15. I don't think the nub is structural, but I think I now see what could be the real issue -- if the nub were machined off, the disc brake slot would be nearly flush with the outer pistons. It would not have the space that the Volvo pistons have --where it slot looks like it had the nubs machined off, but there still is a gap to the pistons. More reason why a spacer would have be needed.
  16. I agree. But, I was trying to understand if there was more to it. I have a Tii, so is machining the calipers a viable way to get vented discs. And for standard 2002, could one machine that as well to get vented discs? Or are there other differences. Perhaps Volvo pistons are bigger or have more clamping power?
  17. While looking at this picture in another post, it struck me that the reason the volvo calipers accommodate vented disks is because the "nubs" in the circled areas are machined down widening the opening vs. those on the Tii caliper. So, can one achieve the same result by machining the Tii caliper?
  18. My thought is that with the CSB loosely fitted, the realtive stiffness of the Guibo will overcome the lateral stiffness of the loosely fitted CSB and as you rotate the shaft, the CSB wiill move until it reaches the poition where it put the least stress on the Guibo. This is similar in concept to using a stiff aluminum disc -- just makes an assumption that the relative stiffness of the guibo (while nowhere near that of an aluminum piece) is sufficient to get the same benefit. While I can see this working for lateral location of the CSB I don't think it will help with the vertical positioning as Guibo is not going to be stiff enough to bear the load of the shaft without flexing.
  19. So if you started with the drive shaft not parallel (perpendicular really) to the guibo, once you tighten it, with the center bearing loose, shouldn't the drive shaft now be square to the guibo and the kink is now accomodated at the centerbearing universal joint. So rotating the shaft a few times should "center" the center bearing to a location where it puts the least stress on the guibo. Then tighten it. Like you said, the universal joints are there to take up some of misalignment -- let them work.
  20. Is there a reason the fog brackets couldn't be offset to the clear the plastic? I'm picturing a flatstock with 4 holes in it. use 2 to bolt the flatstock to the metal bracket on the body and then use the other 2 to mount the fog lamp bracket so that it comes out to the left/right of the vertical plastic support on the grill. Perhaps the flat stock just needs to be 3 holes with the fog lamp bracket shifted over by just one hole. This would also space the fog a bit wider and leave a less obstructed flow to radiator.
  21. I'm assuming you check the timing on the crank gear to compare by using eh adjustable timing on the light. How accurate is your timing light advance?
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