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schoir

Solex
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  1. Is the accepted convention to measure the width of the wheels from outer edge to outer edge, or inner edge to inner edge of the wheel? Regards, Maurice.
  2. Ed: Thanks for that link. Will definitely use it to do some calculations and narrow the choices. Regards, Maurice.
  3. Ed: Any suggestions on tires and/or sizes would be welcome. My friend suggested 185/55-15's,, but I'm not sure and I'm also not sure as to what is available in that size. One of my main concerns is to try to avoid rubbing under all conditions, if at all possible. The Mahle BBS's that I've had on there for decades, with 195/60-14's are good in that respect but they do occasionally rub in the front going up a sharp, bumpy driveway. Regards, Maurice.
  4. John: The outside dimensions of the edge of the rims are 7.5" for the front and 8.0" for the rears. Not sure about the offset, but my friend tells me that his partner in Hungary researched that with the BMW enthusiast community and came up with what he thought was the ideal offset. I mounted one of the wider rims at the rear (see photo above) and they definitely clear the shock and spring comfortably and look like they will clear the rear quarter panel lip (which I previously formed/folded/rounded over). Regards, Maurice.
  5. Tom: Thanks. I was at the body shop this morning and found out that those are indeed BBS lips. I have a set of 14" Mahle BBS rims that I bought new in 1976, with gold basket weave centers and, although they have no blemishes and haven't been driven on in a couple of decades , they are starting to look a little stale. Maybe the perfect opportunity to refresh those. Regards, Maurice.
  6. My Hungarian friend at the body shop built them as surprise gift for me (in gratitude for my resolving a vintage Porsche legal problem his partners had). He works at the body shop as the painter, but has his own small body shop in Hungary, with two partners who are enthusiasts. One of his partners did the procuring of the steelies and laser cutting. He drilled, assembled, polished and painted the rims. Regards, Maurice.
  7. Those are indeed factory steelies, laser cut around the outer edge, then drilled and built into three piece rims. Regards, Maurice.
  8. Been away for a while, from the board and from my 2002, but I just received a gift which will motivate me to git'er done! Regards, Maurice.
  9. I believe that the cupped shape increases the rigidity/strength of what would otherwise be a flat washer. The flat washer would deform more easily. On my '71, they came from the factory with the concave faces oriented away from their respective rubber bushes, as depicted in your diagram. Regards, Maurice.
  10. I ran into a similar rust situation to yours at the right rear quarter panel when I was restoring my '71. Take a look at the first post dated April 22, 2015 at this link for some insight on repairing the rust in that area: Regards, Maurice.
  11. Randy: It sounds like you have found a good solution. Now you can also cut up that VW brake fluid hose and offer up the sections in a "group buy" here! Regards, Maurice.
  12. The outside face of the gas cap should be more flush with the outer surface of the rear quarter panel. Here it is on my early '71 (owned since new and not modified in this area): Notice that on my car, the inner flange onto which the gas cap is fastened is stationary and cannot be adjusted (short of cutting and welding): Regards, Maurice.
  13. As is works well for lots of different interests, IMO. Regards, Maurice.
  14. You are right here, but only if you are aware that when you first start to insert the distributor the mark on the rotor will not be pointing to the mark on the distributor upper circumference...if installed correctly it will end up that way only AFTER IT IS FULLY INSERTED and seated (the rotor rotates as the distributor is pressed home because the gear at the bottom of the distributor shaft engages with the gear at the rear of the cylinder head). Regards, Maurice.


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