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  1. I am planning on going with the big brake kit that Ireland sells. (E21 rotors and hubs, e24 calipers). I have a Tii. I have already purchased the rotors. Today I called Ireland to to ask if I use e21 bearings or Tii bearings and was told to use my Tii hubs with the e21 rotors because the Tii had bigger bearings. I was super excited at this point. Less money spent, bigger bearings, with bigger brakes, and no hubcentric stuff to worry about. First thing I did when I got home was remove my Tii hubs from the Tii rotors and attempt to install the new w21 rotors on them. I quickly des covered that this does lot work. Now I am wondering if it's worth it to give up the larger bearings of the Tii hub for larger e21 brakes. Is there any way to keep Tii hubs and have larger brakes?
  2. Hello peeps, This past week I noticed my parking brake light stays lit (on the cluster) when disengaged. When I'm driving over a bumpy road the light flickers off then on. What is this blasphemy?
  3. Having just completed an engine swap to a 1973 M10 I'm chasing down vacuum leaks. First intake manifold gaskets and now we believe there is a leak inside the the brake booster so a replacement or a rebuild was in order. Finding only rebuilt ones with parts geek and eBay (centrix brand) I decided to have my original booster rebuilt. After an extensive 15 minutes of research I found that 2002ad and Ireland engineering both do rebuilds. Anxious to get my car on the road I went with 2002ad (they stated a 1 day turnaround vs IE who said it could be longer) i shipped my booster out to them yesterday. Stand by for updates, I will post some before and after pics when I get it back. Anyone have any any experience with this process?
  4. Hi all, I am planning to restore my 2002 -71 (pre-71) brake booster (large ATE one) as the paint has pealed off during the years of use. Guess the brake fluid has done its paint removal thing successfully and rust has taken over. I was thinking of repainting the booster with KBS Coatings products, to prevent it to rust again. I was planning to remove the brake booster by removing the master cylinder but leaving the brake pipes mounted into the master cyl. And here is the $1000 question for the gurus over here: is it possible to dismount the brake booster without removing the master cylinder completely? Thanks, -Sam
  5. A friend helped me diagnose my weak brakes as a lack of rear brakes. I've adjusted drums before (on a land rover) but these felt strange. From what I understand is you want to just feel a little drag on the drum. On my car there was no drag at all until there was a lot. Turning the wheel there is maybe half a rotation with a lot of drag, then it spins freely for a whole rotation, then drag and repeat. If I backed the adjustment off even a little, there's zero drag and a lot of pedal travel. Both wheels did this so I took it for a spin and could feel vibration at speed. Any ideas about what's going on? Drums out of round? I haven't been getting vibration during braking. I don't see any fluid leaking.
  6. Long time members will probably remember that about 10 years ago I started cutting up pedal boxes in order to recreate the Alpina race pedal box with a simple MC bolted to the brake pedal. It worked but I was never satisfied with the lack of adjustability required for a racecar. 6 years ago, I started the design of three e30 kits at the same time. A booster delete kit with a single MC and another with twin MCs and balance bar, as well as a complete DTM-repro pedal box that was a quasi bolt-on. I may have spent weeks drafting the twin MC kit, disgarding, drafting, disgarding and finally putting that project aside. What I offered to the e30 crowd was the now famous single MC brake booster delete kit which sold about 400 units as well as the DTM-repro pedal box. Single MC booster delete kit DTM-repro pedal box About a year ago, I reopened the old drafts that never reached completion because I couldn't solve a lever design: increase pedal leverage from the usual 4:1 to a race-standard 6:1 while keeping the pushrod centered in the opening through the firewall for a higher pedal ratio without altering the pedal itself, and making the kit almost universal (except for the bolt pattern). So, after giving a fresh eye to my old drafts, and within a few minutes, I had found my solution which was so obvious. How come I missed it 6 years ago? I made some metal mock-ups, then made a few mods, made a first prototyping production and started offering it for the e30, e36 and e46 crowd. Then, got thinking that the e30 pedal box kit could easily fit the 2002 brake tower as they share the same mounting pattern. In fact the only difference is that the connecting push rod is perhaps 1/2" shorter. That's it. So okay. It looks good but what does it offer? Many things actually. First, people looking for extra clearance when installing an S14 or fitting sidedrafts to their M10. The brake booster is in the way. Then comes the abiility to tune the braking bias by selecting the proper MC sizes. Everyone complains that the rear brakes could be stronger, The problem can be solved by fitting a larger rear cylinder, or a smaller MC for the rear channel, compared as for the front channel. A front 3/4" for the front and a rear 5/8" or 0.7" per exemple. Then, the fine tuning can be achieved with the balance bar that links both MCs. Particularly necessary with the rear fuel tank emptying itself and allowing a substantial difference in weight between the beginning and the end of a race. 30kg difference in fuel weight on the rear wheels do make a difference in weight distribution. Perhaps not on a street car, but surely on a racecar ;-) All that being said, here are some pictures from my Facebook page.
  7. I need to adjust handbrake on newly installed brake shoes with wheels on and like to know if a ordinary 17mm deep offset wrench will work or has to be specific offset (i;e. 40 or 60 deg offset). Thanks.
  8. I wanted to let you all know about a few new reproduction parts that we have available. Let's start off with these 2002tii/2002ti brake discs. We had these rotors manufactured from high carbon steel and treated with an anti rust coating to prevent corrosion. These are very high quality reproductions that have been professionally tested and quality controlled. We have over 100 sets available, $150 plus shipping per set for FAQ members. Please email us as Sales@VintageAutobahn.com with questions or to place an order.
  9. Gentleman, Trying to fit an Alpina / Ti style airbox to my twin DCOEs. Need to find out if anyone successful used a volvo 1800 es brake booster to replace their tii booster. Tried the search but no confirmation, looking to find out does it work?? Can still purchase a volvo boosters or will need to go tii used. Best I've found so far by search is a post to Delia... Thanks Delia, The injected (D-Jet) 1800 (E&ES) use the same booster as the Tii. At least the booster in my 72 ES appears to be the same. The ATE number off the booster is 3.6127-0201.4. Earl Myers
  10. Howdy, I'm rebuilding a 76 02 and working on the braking system but having a tough time. My current symptoms are excessive pedal travel and poor braking performance. I have new lines (hard and flexible), calipers, master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders and can only get a firm pedal if my rear drums are adjusted so that the shoes are locked against the drums. Even then, the pedal travels nearly to the floor before getting firm. When I press the pedal in, it feels like it is firming up for a short part of the stroke and then a noise sounding like a puff of air occurs and the pedal goes to the floor. Things I have tried so far: Bled entire system multiple times (>1 liter of fluid) using power bleeder and RR, LR, RF, LF method. I also cracked the fittings at the master cylinder open to see if any air was trapped in the master cylinder. I replaced my booster check valve Adjusted the rear drum brakes according to the Haynes Manual, No change. Checked for leaks at all fittings and end points, none were found Replaced the rear brake line with a plug at the master cylinder. I got a firm pedal when the pedal was nearly to the fire wall but the air puff issue still remained. Same thing happened when I adjusted the shoes to their maximum adjustment so they were locking the drums. Searched here and bimmerforums for people experiencing similar issues as me Things I am going to try again: More brake bleeding More rear drum adjustment Questions: Are there multiple sizes of drums/shoes for these cars? Do I have shoes that go with a smaller drum or vise versa? The puff of air I am hearing sounds like its coming from the booster. The booster is original. Could that be causing an issue? Everything I have read about a failed booster is that the pedal feels too firm, not too soft. Has anyone experience this or know what the issue could be. Any tips/tricks/hints/prayers are appreciated. Signed, Jacob, Frustrated First Time 2002 Restorer
  11. I'm sure this topic has come up before, but I wanted to get the most current inputs that people may have. I just got my '73 tii back from a full driveline rebuild, and could not be happier with the performance and quality of work. Unfortunately however, my brakes are clearly showing their age as they almost failed completely on my second day driving the car yesterday. I had planned on troubleshooting that problem and doing a normal full brake job as I'm sure the pads, drums, wheel cylinders, etc, are all in need of service and/or replacement. But then I got to thinking that for the amount of work effectively rebuild the whole existing system, I may want to go ahead and do an upgrade of the brakes now, which I had planned to get to eventually anyway. So, my questions for the group are: 1. What are the typical brake upgrades/kits that have people done sucessfully? 2. How much did you pay for your parts/kits, and where did you buy them? 3. How much better are they than stock (especially for any tii owners)? 4. Anything critical to know, or to avoid when upgrading? Any inputs are welcome and much appreciated. I'm just trying to get an idea of what some of the best options are out there. Thanks, Crash
  12. For over a year i have been chasing weak brakes. When i apply brakes, the pedal feels firm but i never feel like i get more than 70% braking force. I have replaced master three times, calipers twice, booster once, wheel cylinders/drums/shoes twice and i have pumped multiple gallons of fluid through using a pressure bleeder and manual bleeding, I have SS brake lines and have tried various compounds of brakes pads. When i press the pedal, the first 2/3rds of the pedal throw feel good and the car brakes but the last 1/3rd of the the pedal throw feels like nothing additional happens and at high speeds that last third of bake pedal force is the difference between braking suddenly and just slowing down. I have tried everything. Rears are properly adjusted and handbrake is also adjusted. Interesting lately i noticed even with a pressure bleeder the rear didnt bleed with out the addition of the pedal+pressure bleeder, not sure what that means. bottom line is pedal feels good but when you really press the pedal hard, the last amount of braking isnt there when you need it most. Thanks Steven
  13. Help please with rear brake line replacement - the long one from the master cylinder to the Tee fitting in the rear drive shaft hump. It runs back on the left side of the driveshaft and transmission, above the transmission and middle bearing supports. I have the line but can not tell if it can be installed with the drivetrain in place. Any hints on how to do this much appreciated.
  14. I'm working to refresh my front brakes, and I know the PO has done some upgrade to the car like a 5spd, Tii brake booster. I tore into the brakes and I want to make sure I buy the right parts, can you help identify what calipers & rotors these may be? The hubs are 4 stud, and the rotors are vented, the calipers are 2 piston, here are some pics https://photos.app.goo.gl/hA47ZndzjO7cotIw2
  15. Well now I've done it. I was celebrating the success of installing the new rear brakes and finally got to adjusting the E Brake as my last step. One side would tighten but the other side wouldn't. Zero movement of the cable inside the driver's side brake. As is my want I thought maybe if I got the E Brake handle off I could squirt some PB in the sleeves to help free up the cable that's frozen, of course without checking FAQ and discovering what a pain it is to get the E Brake handle back on. Big mistake. But I've searched and seem to have found the thread to do this and will tackle that tomorrow. Not looking forward to that. Why do I do these things? : ( Anyway, before I do, is there a way to try to get that cable free or should I just live with one side working? Any tips will be appreciated. Thanks Nick
  16. Hey guys! I'm wanting to upgrade both my front brakes and rear breaks to my 1973 bmw 2002. I currently have 15in BBS rims on the car. Thinking about having disc brakes for front and back. I know IE has several kits, any alternatives? Also, can i take brakes from a different bmw model and put i on the 2002?
  17. Hello guys. Did someone swapped in a e21 master cylinder on a E10? Need some advice here. I did swap a 79' E21 brake master cyliinder on my '74 1602. I´m having trouble when riding the car. Pedal brakes start to get stiff after a while... I have read somewhere itheres is a difference in MC rod sizes ? Any adivice would be appreciated... Thank you!
  18. No longer needed, rebuilt, complete with new pads. Shipping extra
  19. Hi All, so I'm at the last hurdle of the restoration before going for a "WOF"(warrant of fitness) New Zealand's version of a MOT, ive bleed the entire system 4 times now, in 2 different methods ( article from the faq and haynes manual), i have a RHD 73' tii with a dual circuit system with 2 remote servos. after the last round of bleeding, starting at the servos then rears then fronts, my brake pedal still hits the floor. i have a completely refurbished system (new lines,hoses, re sleeved cylinders, servos and calipers), Can anyone help either diagnose the fault in the system based on symptoms or give me a more specific RHD bleeding sequence to try? thanks in advance! EDIT; also just looked through the factory manual and notice i might have the front calipers upside down..... would this cause any issue with the upper, inner, outer sequence?
  20. So my car has sat idle for 3 months and when my son started it up today all was fine until he put his foot on the brakes and the pedal went to the floor leaving the puddle under the rear p/side wheel. all hoses etc new last year - the question is am I leaving the car too long between routine driving trips?
  21. In an effort to get a little more balanced braking, but still fit the stock steelies, I ordered the IE 250mm (320i) rear drum upgrade. I have benefitted from a couple writeups, but came across an issue, and need some quick help. I am putting things bact together, and preparing to put the “b$## of a spring” on the new linings/backing plates, but the new backing plate doesn’t have the same lip to hold the spring that you find on the 2002 version (pictured). ? - Do I use it anyway (though it seems it would need the lip to keep from springing everything off), or need a different spring? TIA
  22. Have a lot of pars I want to offload that fit BMW 2002, E21, and early E30. All parts came off of a running/driving Arizona 73 2002, and a 79 running/driving e21.Parts list:70-73 BMW 2002 Steering Wheel - 40BMW 2002 Front Disk Brake Calipers & Rotors w/ pads - 180BMW 2002 glove box - 20BMW 2002 radiator - 100BMW 320i E21 radiator w/ shroud - 120BMW 2002 amber side markers - 60BMW 2002 euro blinker right - 120BMW 2002 blinker right housing - 40BMW 2002 Klippan Front Seat Belts and Seat Belt Holder - 150BMW 2002 Driver Side door panel brown/black w/ speaker cutout - 100BMW 2002 Passenger door handle brown - 30BMW 2002 5 blade fan for m10 - 30BMW E21 5 blade fan for m10 - 30BMW 2002 long console panels - 20BMW 2002 brown rear interior panel ash trays - 20BMW 2002 m10 timing cover - 30
  23. Threads on here say you need an o-ring for the brake MC/power brake connection. Realoem doesn't show this o-ring exists (at least in any diagram I could find). It does appear in pics of aftermarket brake MCs (Uro's is attached), but according to bavauto the companies don't sell the o-ring separately. Has anyone run into this issue before? What did you do? Is this a generic o-ring? Thanks in advance.
  24. So I found a box of brakes I had purchased for another car years ago from Kris. 5 Series calipers and vented rotors that I believe are from a 323.. Tried looking for the post or email but it is long gone. Looking for 100 US plus shipping. They are in great shape, the white marks in the pics are from newspaper that was packing them. Let me know if there are any questions. Cheers, Chris
  25. Hi, who sells the brake reservoir blue hose ? did some search couldnt find thanks.
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