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  1. So my car has sat idle for 3 months and when my son started it up today all was fine until he put his foot on the brakes and the pedal went to the floor leaving the puddle under the rear p/side wheel. all hoses etc new last year - the question is am I leaving the car too long between routine driving trips?
  2. Hi All, so I'm at the last hurdle of the restoration before going for a "WOF"(warrant of fitness) New Zealand's version of a MOT, ive bleed the entire system 4 times now, in 2 different methods ( article from the faq and haynes manual), i have a RHD 73' tii with a dual circuit system with 2 remote servos. after the last round of bleeding, starting at the servos then rears then fronts, my brake pedal still hits the floor. i have a completely refurbished system (new lines,hoses, re sleeved cylinders, servos and calipers), Can anyone help either diagnose the fault in the system based on symptoms or give me a more specific RHD bleeding sequence to try? thanks in advance! EDIT; also just looked through the factory manual and notice i might have the front calipers upside down..... would this cause any issue with the upper, inner, outer sequence?
  3. Hi, who sells the brake reservoir blue hose ? did some search couldnt find thanks.
  4. In an effort to get a little more balanced braking, but still fit the stock steelies, I ordered the IE 250mm (320i) rear drum upgrade. I have benefitted from a couple writeups, but came across an issue, and need some quick help. I am putting things bact together, and preparing to put the “b$## of a spring” on the new linings/backing plates, but the new backing plate doesn’t have the same lip to hold the spring that you find on the 2002 version (pictured). ? - Do I use it anyway (though it seems it would need the lip to keep from springing everything off), or need a different spring? TIA
  5. Need to do your yearly front wheel bearing maintenance? this description outlines basic process for doing this on 320i hubs, but the process is similar for 2002 hubs. Jack up car place jackstands under car remove front wheels unbolt calipers from struts. hang them from springs. do not let them dangle by the hoses. use channel locks to pull bearing cap off remove cotter pin on axle nut remove axle nut pull hub off axle. keep finger on the outer washer so that outer bearing does not drop out. put hub on work bench on clean paper. do not want to get dirt in the bearings.
  6. I've finally started making some progress. I've managed to rebuild the front struts with new tubes. The ones that came with the car were mangled. As in one strut insert crammed into an older one. Any way, new bearings 320i vented rotors and 320i calipers. I also threw a fresh lick of paint on everything. A fun discovery, one strut doesn't match the others. Other fun discovery the car had 3 lowering springs and one normal. I was under the assumption it was the mangled strut sticking that was causing the wonky ride height. I have added a little bit of plate to th
  7. Looking for a driver's side rear drum backing plate for a '73 2002.
  8. Hi all here are some nice E21 big bearing hubs for those of you looking to upgrade your brakes etc. You must have tii struts or contemporaneous E21 running gear to run these. Price of $175 is shipped to your door in the CONUS only. If you’d like to pick up at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix that can be arranged at a nice discount. Thanks for looking!
  9. This is a bunch of malarkey! So….I grabbed a Stage 1 Kit from Ireland Engineering to kick my suspension refurbish off. Easy day, right? I’m a bit of a safety hound hence the 3 ton jack stands and stacked tires under the 1600. I get frequent visits from my 3 & 5 year old daughters. They always want to see what daddy is doing with his “race car”. Basically, I just started with ripping everything off after it was on the stands. Believe it or not, the part that took me a considerable amount of time was the old brake shoes. Those darn springs were giving me fits! Must go discs out back!
  10. creede


    18 months is up... Info on kit here. http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-systems.php?p=2002_front_300
  11. I'm working to refresh my front brakes, and I know the PO has done some upgrade to the car like a 5spd, Tii brake booster. I tore into the brakes and I want to make sure I buy the right parts, can you help identify what calipers & rotors these may be? The hubs are 4 stud, and the rotors are vented, the calipers are 2 piston, here are some pics https://photos.app.goo.gl/hA47ZndzjO7cotIw2
  12. Well now I've done it. I was celebrating the success of installing the new rear brakes and finally got to adjusting the E Brake as my last step. One side would tighten but the other side wouldn't. Zero movement of the cable inside the driver's side brake. As is my want I thought maybe if I got the E Brake handle off I could squirt some PB in the sleeves to help free up the cable that's frozen, of course without checking FAQ and discovering what a pain it is to get the E Brake handle back on. Big mistake. But I've searched and seem to have found the thread to do this and will tackle that tomorrow. Not looking forward to that. Why do I do these things? : ( Anyway, before I do, is there a way to try to get that cable free or should I just live with one side working? Any tips will be appreciated. Thanks Nick
  13. No longer needed, rebuilt, complete with new pads. Shipping extra
  14. Hey guys! I'm wanting to upgrade both my front brakes and rear breaks to my 1973 bmw 2002. I currently have 15in BBS rims on the car. Thinking about having disc brakes for front and back. I know IE has several kits, any alternatives? Also, can i take brakes from a different bmw model and put i on the 2002?
  15. So I found a box of brakes I had purchased for another car years ago from Kris. 5 Series calipers and vented rotors that I believe are from a 323.. Tried looking for the post or email but it is long gone. Looking for 100 US plus shipping. They are in great shape, the white marks in the pics are from newspaper that was packing them. Let me know if there are any questions. Cheers, Chris
  16. Happy Friday everyone, Got a quick question on brake bleeding. I've replaced both front calipers, and wondering if I just need to bleed the fronts only, or should I bleed all 4? FYI, I've bled all 4 a few weeks ago after I replaced the master cylinder..... I didn't check the reservoir after the caliper replacements yet, but if it's relatively full, and no air escaped into any hoses (if level is above outlets), can I get away w/ bleeding the fronts only? Thanks in advance. I'm taking a break and going to a bar for some BBQ and a beer, and coming back to finish the work. (Side plug...If you are in the Boston area and like BBQ, you MUST go the the Village Smokehouse in Brookline, MA...Can take the trolley; Green "D" line)..... - Chris
  17. Rock Auto has a new 2 piston caliper (left front, 48mm pistons) on closeout for $22.79. Someone needs this! http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1010697&m=wc&l=en&html=true Other closeout stuff there too...like brake pads and brake hoses... No $22 4 piston calipers, unfortunately! cheers mike
  18. Hello, I thought I would post about my brake set up to possibly help anybody thinking about doing the upgrade(s). My 1600 is a 1968, it came with the 5 line master cylinder and 320i rear drums. The brake system was in poor conditon when I got the car (disc below minimum, stuck left caliper, and zero brake pad life). I installed the front calipers from a Volvo along with the 320i hubs and 1977 320i vented rotors. When I had everything installed I noticed the pads were sitting outside the diameter of the rotor. So I removed the caliper and milled the bolt holes into a slots. The caliper/pads now encompass the disc completely. The car stopped much better, but the pedal nearly went to the floor. So I opted to upgrade the master cylinder, I decided to go with a 1978 E12 530i master cylinder, 23.8mm bore I believe. When installing the master cylinder, I realized the E12 MC did not have the provisions to accept the residual pressure valve. The reason being, the E12 was equipped with rear disc brakes. The residual pressure valve keeps about 10 psi in the rear brakes to keep the drums preloaded (so when you hit the brakes, you dont have to pump them to get the shoes to contact the drum friction liner). So I ran to my local junk yard, there was a 320i there, but it had the 3 line master cylinder. I was poking around different cars when I found an MK1 VW Rabbit. I noticed the rabbit had two large valves/cylinders on the master cylinder (one per line for the rear brakes). So I pulled them off. I did some googling and the reserach showed they were residual pressure/proportioning valves. So I installed the valve between the master and rear brakes. I bleed the system. I was a little nervous as I wasn't sure this would work. But so far the car stops very well. I didn't get a chance to watch someone hit the brakes hard to see if the car nose dives (rear brakes not working), but since the VW Rabbits are front heavy I think it will work/feel like it is working. The master cylinder gave the pedal an excellent stiff feeling (like my E86 M Coupe). I still need to adjust and lube the rear drums, but I suspect everything will work out well and braking will improve even more. I will post an update this week.
  19. Where might I find rear hoses long enough for the vw caliper/rotor conversion? stock mk3 hoses are too short
  20. I bought some rebuilt calipers and they came in seemingly without any cad plating. I have an acquaintance who offered to powdercoat them for me (I'm thinking gold or silver). Is it a bad idea...will the seals be damaged by the oven heat? Thanks in advance for all the shared wisdom.
  21. In the caliper rebuilding article does felix have tii calipers cause it seems that he is using the tii rebuild kit. Now im just asking cause the tii one are a bit cheaper but would it be fine using them. Here is the link to the article: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/91/33/ This is to the tii rebuild kit: http://www.rogerstii.com/servlet/the-738/BMW-2002tii-Bavaria-Brake/Detail This is to the 2002 rebuild kit: http://www.rogerstii.com/servlet/the-737/BMW-1602-2002-Brake/Detail
  22. Does anyone know what brake calipers these are? They just came off my 73 02. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3f_nhOmaNrDcpEIlVlCBnGbG6VnmqB99VMA8ODWgkZg?feat=directlink https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/NfkGV2MMz9TfYruVeFmAdWbG6VnmqB99VMA8ODWgkZg?feat=directlink https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/v2WIkvxiiyFEFMGpP24Lf2bG6VnmqB99VMA8ODWgkZg?feat=directlink
  23. Just wondering if anyone has a lead. Quality is paramount but as usual price is a considerations as well. Best- Pete
  24. STORY So I was heading back from my job, and as I pull off, everything feels fine. I take a relatively "steep" downwards hill for a little while. There was a red light so I stopped, and to my surprise I had to pump brakes 2 times for it to completely stop. Everything is fine for like 10 seconds and out of no where the pedal starts pushing further. I was losing brakes. I pulled on the handbrake otherwise I would have ended up on the car in front of me. I got home safe. Looked everywhere around the car, no leaks. TL;DR Pedal sunk to the floor while stopped on downwards hill. Feels like there may be air in the system OR brake booster issues? No leaks, no suspect sounds, nothing. Car not currently safe to drive, and really wish I can solve this fast. Thanks! P.S. If it gets to the point of buying a break booster, do you have any aftermarket parts suggestions that are not too expensive? Thanks again!
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