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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

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Found 772 results

  1. 2002 stock rear drum brakes

    Stock 230mm rear drum brakes off my 74. shoes in decent shape, comes with back plates, wheel cylinders, all Springs and hardware. located in temple city, ca asking $100 will ship at buyers expense
  2. Tii Drivers Side Front Brake Lines

    Looking for a clean dual drivers side, left front set of brake lines off a Tii. Changing over to TII booster for Alpina Filter. Wanted to see if any are available before attempting to make a set. Thanks Girt 215-530-5000 girt1@verizon.net
  3. I need to adjust handbrake on newly installed brake shoes with wheels on and like to know if a ordinary 17mm deep offset wrench will work or has to be specific offset (i;e. 40 or 60 deg offset). Thanks.
  4. Weak brakes

    For over a year i have been chasing weak brakes. When i apply brakes, the pedal feels firm but i never feel like i get more than 70% braking force. I have replaced master three times, calipers twice, booster once, wheel cylinders/drums/shoes twice and i have pumped multiple gallons of fluid through using a pressure bleeder and manual bleeding, I have SS brake lines and have tried various compounds of brakes pads. When i press the pedal, the first 2/3rds of the pedal throw feel good and the car brakes but the last 1/3rd of the the pedal throw feels like nothing additional happens and at high speeds that last third of bake pedal force is the difference between braking suddenly and just slowing down. I have tried everything. Rears are properly adjusted and handbrake is also adjusted. Interesting lately i noticed even with a pressure bleeder the rear didnt bleed with out the addition of the pedal+pressure bleeder, not sure what that means. bottom line is pedal feels good but when you really press the pedal hard, the last amount of braking isnt there when you need it most. Thanks Steven
  5. Good Afternoon everyone! I have been working on my brakes on and off for the past few months. I have installed new rotors,calipers,drums,pads,shoes,brake cylinders,flex hoses and just yesterday I replaced the brake master cylinder. Now what I can't figure out is when I try to bleed the brakes,I am not getting any brake fluid to the rear. The bleeders are bone dry.is there something I'm doing incorrectly? I've searched through the site and haven't seen anyone else with this same problem. Any expertly advise is greatly appreciated.
  6. Howdy, Back at the project '74 tii this weekend. I'm getting around to changing the transmission fluid and differential fluid. On the differential, I searched the FAQ and saw that 75w90 is the preferred fluid, but the the transmission fluid recommendations vary in relation to the type / age of the transmission. The transmission in the 74 tii project has been replaced with a 5 speed, so I'm hoping that one of you experts can tell me which 5 speed this is and what fluid to put in. I'm not looking to ordering Redline fluid, just pick some appropriate fluid up at the auto parts store. If someone know the which transmission this is and the correct fluid and amount that would be most helpful. and if anyone has any thoughts on replacing this brake cylinder I'd appreciate that too. Here are pictures.
  7. Hi guys, Can any brake people help me out here I have been looking for a suitable single remote servo to replace the twin remote servo setup on my RHD 2002. And have recently come across this product. https://www.mpbrakes.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=AE0F85E9DDC446C8AFA40191940E1C58 Has anyone had experience with this product or know if it would work with the stock MC? Thanks for your time,
  8. Ive read the faq. I cant seem to get the pistons back in to the calipers after installing the orings. Can someone tell me what to do?
  9. Volvo tii Brake Booster

    Gentleman, Trying to fit an Alpina / Ti style airbox to my twin DCOEs. Need to find out if anyone successful used a volvo 1800 es brake booster to replace their tii booster. Tried the search but no confirmation, looking to find out does it work?? Can still purchase a volvo boosters or will need to go tii used. Best I've found so far by search is a post to Delia... Thanks Delia, The injected (D-Jet) 1800 (E&ES) use the same booster as the Tii. At least the booster in my 72 ES appears to be the same. The ATE number off the booster is 3.6127-0201.4. Earl Myers
  10. Hi, I think Skidmark use to make these, thay space out the Standard Calipers so you can run vented rotors. Anyone know where you can get them now ? My racing rules dont alow bigger rotors.
  11. I need to replace the brake booster on my 1968 2002, VIN 1661117 (May, 1968) I have the 2 piston caliper system. I found one from a 1969 2002, and one from a 1972 2002. Does anyone know if can use either in my 1968, or was there anything unique about the ones used in the early 1968s? Thanks
  12. WTB: 2 Piston Brake Calipers

    Looking to purchase re-manufactured, 2 piston brake calipers for a 1968 2002. Looking for ready-to install condition; not calipers that need to be rebuilt. Thank you.
  13. So I am going to replace my master brake cylinder and the hoses that run from the reservoir. I know everyone says bench bleed, bench bleed, bench bleed, but I was curious if you could use a pressure bleeder to fill the master cylinder from the bleed nipple. I was told this was how it was done at the factory from an old BMW trained 2002 mechanic. The way I see this working is I could turkey baster out the fluid form the reservoir, fill a pressure bleeder with that amount, recognizing that I will loose a bit to spillage. Then install the new - dry - master cylinder, weigh the brakes down with a brick, and fill them backwards until the reservoir starts to fill. Will the master cylinder work backwards like this? Or am I missing some crucial gasket one-way valve, you can't go in through the out-door kinda thing?
  14. Brake Booster Adjustment

    About half a year ago the brake line that goes to the rear breaks broke and I made a quick fix by plugging off the rear brake line at the brake master cylinder. I know it wasn't the best solution, but I use my 02 as a daily driver and I had to get to work. Surprisingly it worked pretty well and I drove the car like that everyday for about half a year. Since winter is here and the roads are getting icy, I decided it was finally time to fix the rear brakes. I didn't want to take any shortcuts so I replaced the brake master cylinder, all brake lines, the font brake hoses, and the front brake calipers/pads. After I put it all back together I took the car out on the highway. The brakes felt alright, but I couldn't get them to lock up (I did bleed the brakes). Also, when I got home the front wheels were very hot. I almost couldn't even touch them. After I took the wheels off I could see that the brakes were dragging. Also, I noticed that my brake lights are always on. Even when I'm not pushing the brake peddle. After doing some research I've come to the conclusion that the center pin inside my brake booster is too long or being pushed somehow. http://www.mpbrakes.com/techtalk/how-to-series/got-a-soft-pedal-dont-forget-the-booster-pin-to-master-cylinder-gap When the booster center pin (aka booster push rod) is fully inside the brake master cylinder and it is touching the back of the master cylinder the length between the brake master cylinder and the booster is 5mm. So as I'm bolting the master cylinder onto the booster I can feel resistance before the master cylinder is bolted on all the way. Since there isn't a way to adjust the booster center pin the only solution I can find is to grind the tip of the center pin off. This is what my Haynes Repair Manual says to do. Obviously grinding off the tip of the center pin should be the last resort. So I looked for another way to adjust the length of the center pin. I discovered there there is a rod that goes from the brake peddle to the booster that can be adjusted. So I loosened the nut at the top and the bottom of that rod and I tried turning the rod both ways. When I turn it left it moves the brake peddle out toward the drivers seat. When I turn it right it move the brake peddle back toward the firewall. It does not change the length of the center pin. This leads me to believe that the only solution is to the grind off the tip of the center pin. I plan on doing that tonight, but I thought I would make this post to see if anyone has a better solution. Please reply if you have a better idea. I made some measurements last night and I thought it my be a good idea to include them in this post. I rounded these measurements to the nearest half mm. - The length of the brake master cylinder hole. In other word the length that the booster center pen can go into the brake master cylinder before it hits the back is 49.5mm. - The length of the booster center pin is 62.5mm
  15. Hi all, I am planning to restore my 2002 -71 (pre-71) brake booster (large ATE one) as the paint has pealed off during the years of use. Guess the brake fluid has done its paint removal thing successfully and rust has taken over. I was thinking of repainting the booster with KBS Coatings products, to prevent it to rust again. I was planning to remove the brake booster by removing the master cylinder but leaving the brake pipes mounted into the master cyl. And here is the $1000 question for the gurus over here: is it possible to dismount the brake booster without removing the master cylinder completely? Thanks, -Sam
  16. All used and working well when removed a couple of weeks back: 1970 2002 front hubs with ok bearings, brake calipers, discs, pads, set of partially worn hawk pads Make offer plus shipping or free delivery with 10 miles of I-75 anywhere between Atlanta and Detroit (late June).
  17. What Is This Hose

    Bought a used neueclasse engine...#1255223. We weren't there when it came out and are trying to identify the hose coming out right below the Cylinder Head on the drivers side? Does anyone know and from there what it attaches to? Any help will be appreciated. DK
  18. Hey all, I'm planning for a possible cross-country road trip and trying to get the car ready. It has the volvo brake upgrade from the PO that I need to do the bearings on (non-Tii). It's looking like I need bearings fm a 1981-83 e21? Can anyone confirm?? Thanks, TK
  19. Hello All, Working on the garage find '74tii again. Last weekend I got the front calipers replaced with Cardone rebuilts and successfully bleed the brakes (at least the fronts) and road tested. Before replacing the front calipers, I attempted to bleed the system - the front barely bleed and the rears not at all. After replacing the calipers the fronts bleed fine and the rears still didn't bleed at all. I used a Motive pressure bleeder, and pushed at least a quart of fluid through for good measure. On the road test the pedal was a little soft, or just different from my '73tii, but I certainly was able to stop and also lock the brakes (at least the fronts) on demand. So now I'm working the rears. It appears, if my knowledge about brakes is correct, that the lines have been replaced in the past with stainless braided lines (see photo). I'm wondering what the next steps are. Perhaps an important note, the hubs do NOT turn freely, it takes quite and effort to spin either side, sort of like the brakes are partially on. One question is - what is the lower line in the photos - the one that attaches to be bottom of the brakes? Could that be my culprit? Any advice of course if welcome, and encouraged. Thanks, David So, the rears
  20. SOLD NEW Wilwood calipers $150

    SOLD! Brand new in box Wilwood calipers with pads. Had big plans but sold my 02. Now these need a new home. Preferably in your car not my garage. Paid $370, yours for $150. Includes the following: 2x Wilwood 120-8729 Powerlite radial mount calipers Wilwood 150-8813K brake pads drawings for mounting brackets on standard 2002 struts cobbled-together mock-up mount Using your assortment of flat washers and bolts, you can confirm the correct dimensions in my drawings (or alter them as needed) and carve out some simple adapters from aluminum or steel flat bar stock. If using aluminum I would recommend helicoiling the tapped mounting holes for durability. These are the smallest 4-piston calipers Wilwood makes, and I positively confirmed that they fit with room to spare in my 13 inch steel wheels using e21 rotors. Your results may vary. You'll need a few other parts to make this work if converting a standard 02 front brake setup: e21 hubs e21 vented rotors e21 master cylinder brake proportioning valve flex lines PM me if you want these. Thanks. -Rojo
  21. Been a couple / few weeks. Son is in his senior year and there was prom (actually 3 different ones), soccer games, and life.... Finally got in the garage last weekend after a 3 week hiatus. I had bought the Motive brake bleeder and was ready to bleed and attempt to fix my stuck front passenger caliper.... or so I thought. Screwed on the pressure bleeder, pumped it up to 15 psi, opened the rear bleeder... and nothing. Tried the other rear brake.... nothing. Went to fronts, Driver side bleed from 2 out of three screws, passenger side barely bleed out of 1. I was able to push about 3 reservoirs of full clean fluid through the fronts eventually, but nothing out of the backs. Read something about bleeding the brake booster under the hood before bleeding the rears. Will have to look into that more tomorrow (waiting for my plane currently). Then I checked to see if the pistons in the front moved (I had finally gotten the brake pads out of the stuck caliper). Yep they moved... badly. Torn boot and only 1 piston moving from each side (one top, one bottom) on the passenger side, and two pistons on one side moving from the driver's caliper. well... shit. So I pulled the calipers and bit the bullet and ordered newly rebuilt ones (autozone - cardone $246, then $81 back in cores) that should be waiting for me once I get home. For giggles I'll post the messed up caliper photos I took when I'm back home - the airport lounge has pathetic wifi. I'll read up on installing new calipers and properly bleeding them before I start this weekend. (keeping the old pads - they are barely used, and the wierd drilled rotors for now). Any advice beyond what I can scrounge up on this site (and general "I'm an idiot and never replaced calipers" site) feel free to post. Cheers, David
  22. Bought these but didn't end up needing them. Set of Shoes: http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/10198 2x Drums: http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/34211101741 2x Bearings: https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/repair-kit-wheel-bearing-for-rear-axle-1502-1602-1802-2002-2002ti-2002tii-you-need-2-for-1-car-33-20-11.html Local pickup preferred. Message me your offer.
  23. Pedal box troubles

    Hey guys, Having issue disconnecting the brake pedal from the shaft that travels up to the master vacuum. It is the only thing stopping me from removing my pedal box and I cannot figure out what I need to do because my shop manual is rubbish in this section. Any advice?
  24. Pedal box troubles

    Hey guys, Having issue disconnecting the brake pedal from the shaft that travels up to the master vacuum. It is the only thing stopping me from removing my pedal box and I cannot figure out what I need to do because my shop manual is rubbish in this section. Any advice?
  25. TII Core Randomness

    Selling off some core parts we have, TII front calipers 200$ Springs 25 Hubs 100 Backing plates 25 Always Open to offers, we bought this as a complete TII front end from Rob at 2002Haus, to put into our race car, we wound up using E12 front calipers. Not looking to get rich, want to pass these parts on for fair value. If i am out of line on my prices please let me know Pictures here