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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

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Found 780 results

  1. Howdy, I'm rebuilding a 76 02 and working on the braking system but having a tough time. My current symptoms are excessive pedal travel and poor braking performance. I have new lines (hard and flexible), calipers, master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders and can only get a firm pedal if my rear drums are adjusted so that the shoes are locked against the drums. Even then, the pedal travels nearly to the floor before getting firm. When I press the pedal in, it feels like it is firming up for a short part of the stroke and then a noise sounding like a puff of air occurs and the pedal goes to the floor. Things I have tried so far: Bled entire system multiple times (>1 liter of fluid) using power bleeder and RR, LR, RF, LF method. I also cracked the fittings at the master cylinder open to see if any air was trapped in the master cylinder. I replaced my booster check valve Adjusted the rear drum brakes according to the Haynes Manual, No change. Checked for leaks at all fittings and end points, none were found Replaced the rear brake line with a plug at the master cylinder. I got a firm pedal when the pedal was nearly to the fire wall but the air puff issue still remained. Same thing happened when I adjusted the shoes to their maximum adjustment so they were locking the drums. Searched here and bimmerforums for people experiencing similar issues as me Things I am going to try again: More brake bleeding More rear drum adjustment Questions: Are there multiple sizes of drums/shoes for these cars? Do I have shoes that go with a smaller drum or vise versa? The puff of air I am hearing sounds like its coming from the booster. The booster is original. Could that be causing an issue? Everything I have read about a failed booster is that the pedal feels too firm, not too soft. Has anyone experience this or know what the issue could be. Any tips/tricks/hints/prayers are appreciated. Signed, Jacob, Frustrated First Time 2002 Restorer
  2. 2002tii brake rotors

    I wanted to let you all know about a few new reproduction parts that we have available. Let's start off with these 2002tii/2002ti brake discs. We had these rotors manufactured from high carbon steel and treated with an anti rust coating to prevent corrosion. These are very high quality reproductions that have been professionally tested and quality controlled. We have over 100 sets available, $150 plus shipping per set for FAQ members. Please email us as Sales@VintageAutobahn.com with questions or to place an order.
  3. Not sure how significant this is, but cool to see Porsche brakes on a Tii strut. The website is in Swedish so I may not have all the facts straight. But looks as described + maybe a 323 vented rotor?
  4. Quick praise for Bel-Metric as a source for hard lines that fit the 2002. I stupidly tried to re-use my original lines, and had a leak (duh!!) so I started looking at parts shops. Typically available in 30" and 20"... too long and too short. Then I tried Maximillian and BMW stock is $30/ea for the two short hard lines in the rear.. plus outrageous shipping. But after some digging, found this place and they offer our 2002 lines/fittings/etc in many lengths, including the EXACT 22" (544mm) needed for the rears. Less than $10 each, dirt cheap shipping and they arrived in 4 days. They also have tons of fasteners and other great geeky stuff for our babies! Happy Thanksgiving weekend.... Randy PS - Yes, I could have bought the 30" from OReilly, clipped it and re-flanged it.. and that is a skill I need to learn, but don't want to trust brakes on a brand new skill
  5. In the shop now trying to bleed completely dry system. We bench primed master but really tough to move to car and install and connect lines But we got it in and started pass rear the old fashioned way. But after 100 or so pumps... not a drip or air hiss And the full resevoir is not dropping much, maybe quarter inch. And even when crack a line at the master we don’t get hardly any dripping My first time and my brother is amazed at 5 lines and remote resevoir on these cars whats going in?? I will search but sending out this plea 😳
  6. I'm sure this topic has come up before, but I wanted to get the most current inputs that people may have. I just got my '73 tii back from a full driveline rebuild, and could not be happier with the performance and quality of work. Unfortunately however, my brakes are clearly showing their age as they almost failed completely on my second day driving the car yesterday. I had planned on troubleshooting that problem and doing a normal full brake job as I'm sure the pads, drums, wheel cylinders, etc, are all in need of service and/or replacement. But then I got to thinking that for the amount of work effectively rebuild the whole existing system, I may want to go ahead and do an upgrade of the brakes now, which I had planned to get to eventually anyway. So, my questions for the group are: 1. What are the typical brake upgrades/kits that have people done sucessfully? 2. How much did you pay for your parts/kits, and where did you buy them? 3. How much better are they than stock (especially for any tii owners)? 4. Anything critical to know, or to avoid when upgrading? Any inputs are welcome and much appreciated. I'm just trying to get an idea of what some of the best options are out there. Thanks, Crash
  7. This is what's behind the front wheels of a 76 I recently bought. Guessing E21 rotors and Volvo 240 calipers?
  8. Is the stock e-brake handle the correct leverage ratio for E21 brakes? The rear brake components all appear fairly new but when I pull my e-brake handle there is not a gradual feeling of it cinching up. The handle pulls fairly free until it stops more abruptly than any e-brake I have used and the real problem is it's not holding the car.
  9. 2002 stock rear drum brakes

    Stock 230mm rear drum brakes off my 74. shoes in decent shape, comes with back plates, wheel cylinders, all Springs and hardware. located in temple city, ca asking $100 will ship at buyers expense
  10. Tii Drivers Side Front Brake Lines

    Looking for a clean dual drivers side, left front set of brake lines off a Tii. Changing over to TII booster for Alpina Filter. Wanted to see if any are available before attempting to make a set. Thanks Girt 215-530-5000 girt1@verizon.net
  11. I need to adjust handbrake on newly installed brake shoes with wheels on and like to know if a ordinary 17mm deep offset wrench will work or has to be specific offset (i;e. 40 or 60 deg offset). Thanks.
  12. Weak brakes

    For over a year i have been chasing weak brakes. When i apply brakes, the pedal feels firm but i never feel like i get more than 70% braking force. I have replaced master three times, calipers twice, booster once, wheel cylinders/drums/shoes twice and i have pumped multiple gallons of fluid through using a pressure bleeder and manual bleeding, I have SS brake lines and have tried various compounds of brakes pads. When i press the pedal, the first 2/3rds of the pedal throw feel good and the car brakes but the last 1/3rd of the the pedal throw feels like nothing additional happens and at high speeds that last third of bake pedal force is the difference between braking suddenly and just slowing down. I have tried everything. Rears are properly adjusted and handbrake is also adjusted. Interesting lately i noticed even with a pressure bleeder the rear didnt bleed with out the addition of the pedal+pressure bleeder, not sure what that means. bottom line is pedal feels good but when you really press the pedal hard, the last amount of braking isnt there when you need it most. Thanks Steven
  13. Good Afternoon everyone! I have been working on my brakes on and off for the past few months. I have installed new rotors,calipers,drums,pads,shoes,brake cylinders,flex hoses and just yesterday I replaced the brake master cylinder. Now what I can't figure out is when I try to bleed the brakes,I am not getting any brake fluid to the rear. The bleeders are bone dry.is there something I'm doing incorrectly? I've searched through the site and haven't seen anyone else with this same problem. Any expertly advise is greatly appreciated.
  14. Howdy, Back at the project '74 tii this weekend. I'm getting around to changing the transmission fluid and differential fluid. On the differential, I searched the FAQ and saw that 75w90 is the preferred fluid, but the the transmission fluid recommendations vary in relation to the type / age of the transmission. The transmission in the 74 tii project has been replaced with a 5 speed, so I'm hoping that one of you experts can tell me which 5 speed this is and what fluid to put in. I'm not looking to ordering Redline fluid, just pick some appropriate fluid up at the auto parts store. If someone know the which transmission this is and the correct fluid and amount that would be most helpful. and if anyone has any thoughts on replacing this brake cylinder I'd appreciate that too. Here are pictures.
  15. Hi guys, Can any brake people help me out here I have been looking for a suitable single remote servo to replace the twin remote servo setup on my RHD 2002. And have recently come across this product. https://www.mpbrakes.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=AE0F85E9DDC446C8AFA40191940E1C58 Has anyone had experience with this product or know if it would work with the stock MC? Thanks for your time,
  16. Ive read the faq. I cant seem to get the pistons back in to the calipers after installing the orings. Can someone tell me what to do?
  17. Volvo tii Brake Booster

    Gentleman, Trying to fit an Alpina / Ti style airbox to my twin DCOEs. Need to find out if anyone successful used a volvo 1800 es brake booster to replace their tii booster. Tried the search but no confirmation, looking to find out does it work?? Can still purchase a volvo boosters or will need to go tii used. Best I've found so far by search is a post to Delia... Thanks Delia, The injected (D-Jet) 1800 (E&ES) use the same booster as the Tii. At least the booster in my 72 ES appears to be the same. The ATE number off the booster is 3.6127-0201.4. Earl Myers
  18. Hi, I think Skidmark use to make these, thay space out the Standard Calipers so you can run vented rotors. Anyone know where you can get them now ? My racing rules dont alow bigger rotors.
  19. I need to replace the brake booster on my 1968 2002, VIN 1661117 (May, 1968) I have the 2 piston caliper system. I found one from a 1969 2002, and one from a 1972 2002. Does anyone know if can use either in my 1968, or was there anything unique about the ones used in the early 1968s? Thanks
  20. WTB: 2 Piston Brake Calipers

    Looking to purchase re-manufactured, 2 piston brake calipers for a 1968 2002. Looking for ready-to install condition; not calipers that need to be rebuilt. Thank you.
  21. So I am going to replace my master brake cylinder and the hoses that run from the reservoir. I know everyone says bench bleed, bench bleed, bench bleed, but I was curious if you could use a pressure bleeder to fill the master cylinder from the bleed nipple. I was told this was how it was done at the factory from an old BMW trained 2002 mechanic. The way I see this working is I could turkey baster out the fluid form the reservoir, fill a pressure bleeder with that amount, recognizing that I will loose a bit to spillage. Then install the new - dry - master cylinder, weigh the brakes down with a brick, and fill them backwards until the reservoir starts to fill. Will the master cylinder work backwards like this? Or am I missing some crucial gasket one-way valve, you can't go in through the out-door kinda thing?
  22. Brake Booster Adjustment

    About half a year ago the brake line that goes to the rear breaks broke and I made a quick fix by plugging off the rear brake line at the brake master cylinder. I know it wasn't the best solution, but I use my 02 as a daily driver and I had to get to work. Surprisingly it worked pretty well and I drove the car like that everyday for about half a year. Since winter is here and the roads are getting icy, I decided it was finally time to fix the rear brakes. I didn't want to take any shortcuts so I replaced the brake master cylinder, all brake lines, the font brake hoses, and the front brake calipers/pads. After I put it all back together I took the car out on the highway. The brakes felt alright, but I couldn't get them to lock up (I did bleed the brakes). Also, when I got home the front wheels were very hot. I almost couldn't even touch them. After I took the wheels off I could see that the brakes were dragging. Also, I noticed that my brake lights are always on. Even when I'm not pushing the brake peddle. After doing some research I've come to the conclusion that the center pin inside my brake booster is too long or being pushed somehow. http://www.mpbrakes.com/techtalk/how-to-series/got-a-soft-pedal-dont-forget-the-booster-pin-to-master-cylinder-gap When the booster center pin (aka booster push rod) is fully inside the brake master cylinder and it is touching the back of the master cylinder the length between the brake master cylinder and the booster is 5mm. So as I'm bolting the master cylinder onto the booster I can feel resistance before the master cylinder is bolted on all the way. Since there isn't a way to adjust the booster center pin the only solution I can find is to grind the tip of the center pin off. This is what my Haynes Repair Manual says to do. Obviously grinding off the tip of the center pin should be the last resort. So I looked for another way to adjust the length of the center pin. I discovered there there is a rod that goes from the brake peddle to the booster that can be adjusted. So I loosened the nut at the top and the bottom of that rod and I tried turning the rod both ways. When I turn it left it moves the brake peddle out toward the drivers seat. When I turn it right it move the brake peddle back toward the firewall. It does not change the length of the center pin. This leads me to believe that the only solution is to the grind off the tip of the center pin. I plan on doing that tonight, but I thought I would make this post to see if anyone has a better solution. Please reply if you have a better idea. I made some measurements last night and I thought it my be a good idea to include them in this post. I rounded these measurements to the nearest half mm. - The length of the brake master cylinder hole. In other word the length that the booster center pen can go into the brake master cylinder before it hits the back is 49.5mm. - The length of the booster center pin is 62.5mm
  23. Hi all, I am planning to restore my 2002 -71 (pre-71) brake booster (large ATE one) as the paint has pealed off during the years of use. Guess the brake fluid has done its paint removal thing successfully and rust has taken over. I was thinking of repainting the booster with KBS Coatings products, to prevent it to rust again. I was planning to remove the brake booster by removing the master cylinder but leaving the brake pipes mounted into the master cyl. And here is the $1000 question for the gurus over here: is it possible to dismount the brake booster without removing the master cylinder completely? Thanks, -Sam
  24. All used and working well when removed a couple of weeks back: 1970 2002 front hubs with ok bearings, brake calipers, discs, pads, set of partially worn hawk pads Make offer plus shipping or free delivery with 10 miles of I-75 anywhere between Atlanta and Detroit (late June).
  25. What Is This Hose

    Bought a used neueclasse engine...#1255223. We weren't there when it came out and are trying to identify the hose coming out right below the Cylinder Head on the drivers side? Does anyone know and from there what it attaches to? Any help will be appreciated. DK