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  1. Winter is coming. (Day ~69er-76) Braking my heart It seems that I have 2 leaking fittings on the front calipers, I think the bleeders aren’t seating properly. I managed to stop the leaks but it’s not a permanent fix. I believe I have Tii brakes which were spaced for vented rotors. I might need to get some professional help with those but I will leave that to next year because winter is coming. I’ll try buying some new quality bleeder fittings first. Timing‘n’Tuning I’ve been messing around with my timing light and playing with the adjustment to the Webers. I’ve been
  2. I need your help… Intro: I’ve done a fair amount of searching on this site and google. I have found some info but it’s all never straight forward and I often find something to contradict whatever I previously found. I’m trying to get my 2002 on the road before I need to store it for the winter (very soon in Montreal). Once I get this settled, I could take her for a test spin around the block, which I’m DYING to do J. Background/Specs: Warning, I’m an amateur. My ‘02 came with a DCOE 45 setup, it ran “well” although I believe it was running rich. During my 2002 refresh project I removed the carbs, disassembled & cleaned them + put back together with all new gaskets. I noted down the specs. During that process the folks at redline recommend I put block off plates in place of the cold start mechanism, which I did. I set the brass float (no fuel in them) height to ~8.5mm & ~15mm. I re-opened them Thursday to double check this. Although I did read that one person on here said 8.5 & 12.5mm. The fuel pressure is regulator is regulated to 3.5/3.6psi, which I read should be fine for the setup. I do plan on lowering it to 3 though. The 02 came with: Crane XR700 ignition, 292 cam, 10:1 compression I put new plugs: NGK BP5ES, gapped at 0.037” (same as previous gap) I bought a Synchrometer and an INNOVA Advanced timing light. Situation/Questions. - I’m able to get the motor going with some effort and by fiddling with the distributor, following the redline “Initial setup” o Idle speed, ½ turn in after contact with lever o Idle Mixture screw 1 ½ turns out …and pumping the pedal down (WOT) on what I think is more than normal for cold start - The motor shakes a bit - I felt a bit of liquid below the block off plates, just enough to moisten my figure, I believe it was gas. Once the motor is running, I become a deer in frozen in the headlights… like I don’t know what to do anymore it’s horrible. I’ve read multiple things that my timing should be correct before touching the carburetors but if they’re not synchronized wouldn’t that give me a hard time with the timing. Like what do I do first? 1. Synchronize the carbs, 2. Panic, 3.Timing..etc? I will do the timing off the flywheel (the TDC on pulley doesn’t line up with the oil rail & flywheel TDC). What do I set my timing at, I’ve read all kinds of different things none make me feel confident. The closest I got to an answer was 32-33 degrees at 3000RPM and even at that I'm not confident. Please help me guys, I’m getting very discouraged. Thanks a lot! Anthony
  3. Hi all, As some of you know, i recently picked up a 72tii that i am in the process of resorting to its former glory. That said, I am learning lot about the car and have found pretty much every answer i need on this forum or in one of the several books that i have accumulated. The two most important things I've learnt are; 1) This car is a lot of fun to work on and 2) that the PO did not know anything about the car nor did her bother to look it up. An example of this was when i was tiring to trouble shoot the CSV i found that he had the plug from the CSV plugged in the themo switch and vices versa and the timer box was not wired to the ignition leading me to believe all three were not working... turns out it was just the CSV which i've replaced and now the the car starts up after just a couple of cranks.... until recently....i def have a vac leak in one of the runners and have gaskets on order but am not sure if it was to do with the proceeding problem.. The car was not pulling after 3000RPM so i went through the check list on here, spark plug gaps, distributor gaps and then i got to the timing and now i am a bit unclear and I've messed things up(i'll tell you later just so you can get a giggle in as i did)... i will preface this with fact that this was after doing a lot of searches and think i know the answer but need some validation. So the car has a vacuum retarded distributor, aluminum runners and no firewall notch...so i got a small "dumb" battery powered timing light so it would fit, it the size of a flash light. So details of what i did... removed spark plug and cracked the motor to find TDC using "hack mechainc's" rx (stick in hole) then verified the OT notch was in the viewing port and painted red, then moved the motor to find Z (BB) painted white. when i ran the motor to 2400RPM i saw that it was timed to the OT... My mistakes/assumption: I think i was mistaken in the understand what all the "timing posts" were talking about, because most of them were talking about using the advance timing light with the term "25 deg BTDC" as how to time your car. The way i understood that was that you guys were setting your lights to 25deg off TDC and seeing the BB (Z notch) so since i have a dumb light i should be ok with the car at 2400RPM TDC. So when i first checked it i saw that the OP had it (what i thought) correctly timed. However, in my head that did not jive with "PO didn't know what he was doing" and then i realized the the vacuum port was still plugged... So i disconnected it and got the car at TDC at 2400RPM (i use an RPM meter not the tach) but the car died when it came back to at idle and would not restart... at this point my back was hurting and i was hungry so i decided to quit and get a sandwich... The light bulb: by the time i finished half my sandwich i realized my first mistake.. i disconnected the vacuum hose but did not plug it!!! And after some more reading i think i figured out my second mistake, that the 25 deg BTDC has nothing to do with the timing light advancement... and that at 2400RPM the timing is already(or should be) advance by 25 degs and that with a dumb timing light i should be looking for the BB (Z) not the TDC OT mark. correct? and am i correct in my new found assumption that 25degBTDC has nothing to do with the advancement in the timing light (I've never used an advance timing light either so i am not sure if that is the correct term). Thanks Omer
  4. Hello everyone so the thing is I have put my 02 back on ther road after a full restoration and after one month/aprox. 2000km later there have been some issues that popped out. Despite engine had a full rebuild with all new bearings, been honed, new piston rings, new valve steam seals, im having a major issue with smoke coming out of exhaust, its blue so obviously its burning oil, but where? Most noticeable is when idling and when releasing a gas pedal (in that 2000km period he took 2 litres of oil).... Im running out of ideas where to start fixing that problem Some say use thicker oil (currently im running Castrol 10W-40 part synthetic), others says ignition/distributor have something to do with this...my major fear is that its actually something wrong inside the engine :/ And the other big problem is noise coming out of the engine after it comes to working temperature, valves has been set to 0.15mm clearance and the engine is running beautifully when its cold, but after a while it gets this noise ( trrrrrrr sound) only when Im on throttle. I heard M10 was known for being extremely sensitive about worn out rocker arms, and mine are still original. Would you guess this is the reason for noise or there might be something else?? I appreciate all the help thanks
  5. Quick history: 1. Car has been running with Petronix for about a year. 2. Added MSD + Petronix Coil. 3. Car ran perfectly....purring like a kitten! Problem. Been driving it for about a week without any problems. Took the family out to eat on night. Tried to start it, and it took a looooong time. Came back home. 2nd day started it, took it out on a run, came back to let it cool. Tried to start it. Same result. Turns over forever. The only way I got it started was to put the pedal on the floor. Once it started, it ran like a top. 3rd day, hard to start again....just turns over until I put the pedal to the floor. This time it sputtered and started backfiring through the carb. It finally started, but ran awful. Started trouble shooting. What I've done before every test start. 1. Changed plugs; gap .025 2. Checked TDC; lined up cam gear with tube on top of engine/ensure rotor was pointing at #1 Dist. 3. Changed wires. 4. Cleaned cap. 5. Checked each plug individually for spark, perfect 6. Removed carb. Cleaned it up, blew it out, reinstalled. 7. Removed MSD; use *only* petronix 8. Removed Petronix; *used points*; gap .016 9. Removed distributor to check gears; they look perfect. It certainly seems like a timing issue, but I can't be certain. Basically, I get the same results no matter which ignition configuration I go with; (points, petronix, petronix w/MSD). I'm at a loss! Anybody have any bright ideas?
  6. I rebuilt my 32/36 and started to set the carb up yesterday and noticed that my vacuum distributor advance was bypassed. I was hooking it back up and noticed a sticker on the hood that says "This car is equipped with a Karkit, do not reconnect the vacuum advance." I have no idea what a Karkit is. Anybody have a clue?? Thanks.
  7. After driving my 02 around with megasquirt controling spark timing and fuel delivery for a few years now, I've been getting flak on the megasquirt forums for using an absurd amount of spark advance (some parts of the spark advance table get above 70 degrees!). I tuned these by ear, without knowing what reasonable numbers looked like, so I didn't think too much about it when I was dialing them in. I know what you're thinking-- that's crazy! No engine should be able to run that much advance!-- And you're probably right, but my car does, apparently, and it has been doing so for a while without (significant) problems. Problem is that now nobody on the megasquirt forum takes me seriously, and the only advice I get on any of my problems is that they're probably because of the ridiculous amount of spark advance. So last night I went back to check the timing, which I hate doing because of the annoying placement of that little hole. I looked for the ball at (what megasquirt thinks is) 25 degrees and I found a shiny part of the flywheel at around 27.1 degrees. I couldn't really tell what it was, didn't look like a ball, and didn't really look like a readable mark, but at least it was a mark of some sort. I think this is what I assumed was the ball when I set the timing the first time. Then I started increasing the advance on the MS (If it thinks its firing at 40-50 under normal idle, probably I should find the ball around there). I went all the way up to 63 and definitely no marks past the one I had already seen. The engine started running poorly around there, so I backed off. Then I tried going lower, I went from 25 back down towards 0 and lo and behold, I found the ball... At 6.9 degrees BTDC. This makes no sense. The engine started running like crap and heating up at around -3 degrees, so if I were to set 6.9 as my default idle advance, it would just run like crap all the time. If I offset my spark advance table to account for this, it pushes my already crazy values to over 90 degrees. I had a hard time accepting the 70 degree thing, and there's no way I'll ever be taken seriously on the megasquirt forum again with >90 degree advances in my tune. So, my working hypothesis is that somehow the flywheel is offset. I know it has 8 bolts, which means if it were off by one, the ball would be 45 degrees offset (so I would have just found the ball at -20 degrees BTDC-- Not sure if an engine can run there either, but hey, wacky sh*t happens, apparently). Compensating for that would bring my spark table values down by about 25 degrees and all would be right with the world. My question is whether or not this is possible. Does the flywheel have some index notch, or anything that would prevent it from being attached incorrectly? Thanks for reading all the way through that, and thanks in advance for any responses! Cheers, Jonathan
  8. Hey all, I haven't been able to get my 1971 to start. It will turn over, and it has spark. Just wont start. Any diagnosing advise? If anyone is in Santa Barbara, interested in having some dude time and chilling with another 2002 lover, then feel free to send me a message! Ill buy the beers. ha Thanks! Jeremy
  9. How much play is too much play? I get some slight pinging when driving at minimal load. Is this normal? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tptvLZoHHmI&list=UUtqXoBAevmnbzaa2EHsN_Jg
  10. So my car was just tuned before I got her to pass smog and probably needs a valve adjustment. I just changed the oil to VR1 20w50 with extra zinc. The engine always loved to pop on decel from 4500rpm to 2000rpm (sounds like I ran over a 2 liter bottle). Today however I was poking around and was checking my throttle linkage and just gave her some gas in neutral. Later on I got in and she fired up without needing to give it any gas and idles at 2000rpms. I figured there was still some gas in the carb (32/36) and drove her around a bit. Popped like hell out of the exhaus during some spirited driving. Was hoping to drive it this weekend. I likely have time to set the timing again trying for idle at 800-1000 at 8 degrees advanced and 3200rpm at max 35 advanced. I have a Bosch 0231170164 vacuum advance dizzy (stock on 49 state 76). Also have an electronic ignition installed. Otherwise engine is stock. Thoughts and suggestions?
  11. Hi: I've removed my lower timing cover (an awesome piece of cast aluminum) and need to remove the old main seal to replace with a new one. I asume you push from the back and it comes out the front but I'm a little gun shy about doing some damage to the casting. I placed a 32 mm socket up against the 'back' of the seal and gave it a few hits with a nylon headed hammer. I saw no movement so I stopped there. Am I on the right track and just have not been forceful enough? Anybody have a fool proof method they'd like to share? I've done this a bunch of times removing/replacing seals on brake rotors but somehow this seems different. Thanks, Rich
  12. Howdy! My car - 1976 49 State - passed CA smog! Woo! Okay now let's make it purr. The engine right now likes to ping / pop when I decelerate from 4,000 rpms to ~3,500 rpms. I put in 93 octane gas, but it still happens. I have a 32/36 Weber (not sure on the jet sizes yet) and I have an electronic ignition. The distributor cap was changed and I have new spark plugs. So! A few questions: Should I attempt any tuning while the smog equipment is attached? Or will that disrupt the balance? What was likely done to make it pass smog that killed performance? I figured they would've leaned out a bit too much (hence pinging)? What is the order of operations for general tuning? Distributor Timing? -> Idle screw? -> Enrichener screw? Floats? -> Measure jet sizes? Possible gotchas? I need to check all the vacuum hoses are sound and that contacts are solid. I am reading all the articles I can find, but none found so far that address what they would've done to help pass smog. Thanks!
  13. Hi all, I'm still pretty new to these cars, so I decided to learn how things work by getting my hands dirty. A few things on the list include rebuilding the carb, adjusting the valves, and setting the timing. After researching on the forums how to set the timing, I came across this image: That's where I'm supposed to have a window to see the ball bearing on the flywheel, right? Well, here's my transmission tunnel - unless I'm looking in the wrong spot, I don't seem to have one. My car is a 1975 (built in November of '74) that started life as an automatic. At some point it was converted to a 4-speed manual, so the transmission isn't original. I'm not sure what model it's from. I know that window isn't critical to set the timing, but it got me wondering what the deal is with my car. Any experts want to chime in? Much appreciated! Garrett
  14. Hi Guys, I've made a few posts existing threads, current & old, I've also and done a lot of reading but I figured it would be most helpful if I posted my story/situation here. It will definitely help with the stress this is giving me, or it might make it worse. So, upon changing the head gasket... 1. I did not put the motor at TDC and mark the distributor. 2. Before removing the timing chain, I marked a chain link in relation to it's location on the cam sprocket, I also did the same for the crank sprocket. I market it by scratching a chain link and then scratching the sprocket (as seen in photo at top of sprocket) 3. I remove the head and cleaned in, turning the cam a few times. 4.I cleaned the piston heads, turning the crank a few times to keep crap out of the rings. 5. When putting the head back on the block, I turned the crank to have all the pistons halfway down. 6. To re-install the timing chain, I turned the cam so that the scratch on the chain would line up with the scratch on the cam sprocket (while simultaneously lining up with the scratch on the chain and crank sprocket). 7 .I to put the motor at TDC, using the mark on the cam (next to the #2) which I hadn't noticed until the other night :s. I also used a rod in the #1 spark plug to see where the piston was. The timing mark on the crank pulley is OFF, which I've read is not uncommon. I marked a line on the crank pulley in white (next to the pointer) What concerns me is, I don't think the ball would be visible through the bell housing as it looks like it's hidden by the starter. 8. I re-inserted the distributor, pointing at the mark on it's housing (photo), as I have read to do on here. So what's stressing me is... - How do I know the timing between the pistons and crank are correct? were my chain/sprocket markings good enough? - What's up with my flywheel timing ball? - Did I insert the distributor properly? thanks a lot guys! Anthony
  15. Hi guys, So while back my 2002 cracked it's head, and the head gasket failed. I found a replacement and had it checked over by the engineers and was given the go ahead to use it. Whilst putting on the new head I decided to send of the carb for a rebuild (Solex downdraft) , new waterpump etc. I've put everything back in place - we've adjusted the carb, done valve clearances and timing. I've been driving the car again recently after being overseas and the car standing for a period of 8 months. It idles well but every 5/8 seconds it seems to skip a beat, same when driving (mainly in 3rd and 4th) it hesitates under all different types of load and if you floor it and then come off the throttle it will pop and backfire. So tonight we were playing around and we found that there was a leak in the pipe from the brake booster into the intake manifold leading to cylinder 4. Replaced that pipe but the same problem persists. Could I have burnt a valve, or does this sound like the valves might need adjusting again, perhaps even its the carb? An help/thoughts would be a huge help!
  16. I have decided to rebuild the head on my 1973 stock 2002. I have owned them for over 30 years. I have always kept them basically stock but would like to try something new. What cam would go well with a weber dual 38? Timing issues to be aware of? thanks in advance. RCNCREW
  17. So I bought this new (old) 1972 Inka. (see other post) it came with the head not installed. I plan on resealing the timing covers, replacing the chipped timing chain guide, crank pulley seal, and installing the fresh head. After looking at the timing I became confused: When the #1 piston is at TDC, the timing ball is at the dead center of the starter hole. (is that the correct position?) I decided to check where the pulley marks where in relation to the pulley pointer (little needle thingy at 2 O'clock) and it turns out it has no pulley pointer! I looked underneath and the pulley pointer is on bottom! (5 O'clock position) I have never seen this! Has anybody else? Can I do the timing from this pointer? Is it still 25 degrees behind TDC? some advise/wisdom would be great! Flywheel Ball location at TDC: 5 O'clock pulley pointer: Where the pulley pointer usually is: TDC with the flat-top pistons:
  18. Hey all, I am new to the world of timing. I recently purchased an INNOVA 3568 timing light. It seems to me that my engine does not run well at the suggested advance of ~30 degrees, but instead, likes ~60 degrees. This does not seem right to me. That being said, the car accelerates much better, runs smoother, and makes quite a bit more power, yet does not overheat. The story gets more complicated, as this is a recently swapped engine, built to an aggressive spec. It has a very agressive cam, and therefore isn't the best idler to begin with. Ported and Polished, lightweight internals, etc. Compression, measured a few months ago, was 195 in all 4 cylinders. I have recently replaced the spark plug wires and shortened them (the wire from coil to distributer was different from the rest, plastic core). I run the bosch blue coil. Distributer is #0231188002, which I believe is purely mechanical. I just reset it from 42 degrees (where it was running really poorly), to 65 degrees, where it is totally alive. The car performs much better, backfiring disappears, etc. I sincerely doubt my 02 is different from the rest, so what's going on here?
  19. Can anyone glean anything from the coloring of these plugs? I'm replacing them with standard electrode plugs but they look pretty good to me. Plugs are in order 1-4 from right to left. Age/mileage unknown. I've had an occasional miss at idle and have read platinum plugs can cause this so thought I'd try something different. #4 plug electrode is more black/ less brown because there was a bit of oil pooled in the plug hole from a slight leak that I believe I have addressed. I touched the electrode to the oil while removing. Anyway, disregard color of #4 electrode. Daron posted a link a while ago to www.4secondsflat.com/plug_chart.html and I'm reading these on the hot side of good. Anyone disagree?
  20. 1974TII with fuel injection hasn't run in 15 years. I got it running after a year and a half. Car idles fine. Car will not wrap up and bogs down when the throttle is mashed in all gears. Most articles in forum troubleshoot carburated cars. Is there any links to how I can troubleshoot a fuel injected car. Any help would be most appreciated
  21. Ok for real, I cant see the marks on the flywheel. I see at best 1/3 of the lip on flywheel. I have a brand new Innova digital timing gun. Has anyone opened up the hole so you can see it better? Even if I could actually find the marks. there isn't enough showing to paint. Do I get out the dremmel? I have 5 speed waiting for it, but I need it to run until I get it in . I will send a picture tomorrow.
  22. I do have a question..... but I have to bore you first. I have recently installed a MSD Street Fire box on my m10. I was quite happy with some improved gas mileage and a little more "oomph" at low RPMs. (or at least it feels that way to me) but I had to set my distributor to 0 degrees advanced any more and it starts to shake at 2200rpm. At first I kind of thought "Because I put on a MSD, its reasons not known to science and I have to live with it" but then I started playing with my Pertronix and realized it messed with the timing advance curve, like a lot. Didn't keep track of the first gap I had it at (it was probably at .050) but when I set it to .030 I noticed I could advance it to 5 degrees advance (at 1,400RPM) without the shakes at 2,200 RPM I kept going till I set the Pertronix gap to .016 (what regular old points want) and got to about 15 degrees advance at 1,400 RPM. (no shakes) its close to what my old book wants for that speed with the T.I.I. distributor. I am now curious if I should dust off my dwell meter and try and set it like points. I cant find anything online to back this up so my Question is..... Did anyone else notice that with adjusting Pertronix gap? Or is this a weird MSD fluke ? (everybody sets theirs to .030) Can you measure dwell with Pertronix ? What degrees advance do you guys set your timing ? and what do you think I should try and achieve with my m10? (high top pistons, shaved head, weber 38/38, MSD street fire with MSD coil)
  23. upper timing chain cover 11140604100 brand new, OEM NOS $120 shipped Retail is $191 Message if interested
  24. I know this is probably one of the dumbest questions to come up in awhile but I'm throwing it out there. I was having a real bad time verifying TDC - comparing the various marks on the flywheel, timing chain sprocket, and pulley for my 75 with a 123 distributor. I eventually found a shop that was willing to take a look at it. He confirmed that the flywheel had been installed incorrectly explaining why the various marks were not indexed properly. He marked the flywheel and lower pulley for TDC w/ green paint and set the timing. I was actually relieved that there was a good explanation for the problem I was experiencing. So this morning I decided to break out my timing gun to see what he actually set it to and to see if I could see his new marks. This is where it gets weird. With my timing light, no matter what advance I choose the pulley marks are always in the same place. In other words I can't dial in the timing gun to tell me what the timing is. At idle, I can see his timing marks on the pulley and I can watch it advance as I rev the engine but changing the advance on the gun does nothing to pull the paint mark to the pointer on the case. At idle it's near the pointer so I can see his marks just fine. I can't see the marks at all on the flywheel. I even drove over to a friends house and tried his gun. We both have the Innova 3588 advanced timing guns and both guns behaved the same. What could be going on here? Car runs well, but I'm missing something very basic on this issue.
  25. Hi all - I have been studying all of the wise advice (all over the friggin' board :)) on ignition timing, etc. and feel pretty good about my bring up steps that I will try first. But I wanted some expert opinions on the triple row pulley that came on my '75. Not sure it is factory, but the car once had smog pump and A/C, long gone when I got it. This two pix below are the same pulley and oriented the same way. My confusion lies in the fact that there are 2 sets of TDC and advance marks as follows: Left picture - One set on the outer pulley with OTZ (aka TDC) marked on the "thick" section, however the single line just behind it in the picture does not have an advance Z mark on the thick section Right picture - for the inner-most pulley, and about 180 degrees from the left picture markings, there are again OTZ (TDC) markings, but this time the single mark is tagged with the advance Z. Hope that made sense... but here are the questions: o The left picture seems whacky since it shows the TDC mark "prior" to the single unmarked line, whereas, the right picture properly matches the "order" of my flywheel OT and Z-ball markings. In other words, as things are spinning, you would expect the advance Z mark to arrive at a fixed point (the timing pointer) prior to the TDC ZOT mark. But in this left picture, the opposite is true. o Why would there be two sets of timing marks on this pulley unit, which seem to also be 180 out of phase. The crank pulley is keyed to the crank shaft so you can't put it on wrong. You know it just occurred to me. Could the factory have marked the correct markings (right picture) and some PO went ahead and made additional (and incorrect?) markings on the outermost pulley?
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