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Does anyone have any idea why my tachometer would stop working with a MSD Streetfire Multi Spark module upgrade? I have been over the wiring a few times. Have pulled the tach out and routed another wire straight from the back of the tach to the grey wire on the module, still no go. I have a pertronix ignitor in my dizzy can I take a tach feed from the dizzy terminals? I have seen everyone else with these just wire straight up and not have a problem or need an adapter. Any info would be highly appreciated. Arlo.

I have a 1968 2002 base. I just installed a new cap on the distributor and now the engine isn't running well its consistently backfireing even when I put the old cap back on. I tried adjusting the timing and it shifts between firing through the intake or exhaust ports depending on weather I advance or retard the dizzy. Car ran perfect before this. Any ideas?

After reading good things on the FAQ and reviews around the web, I decided to invest in a Summit Racing 'MSD' CDI ignition. I have to say, this is an impressive package. EVERYTHING about this product (build quality, instructions, part numbers, specification, installation kit etc) screams that this is an MSD product. If MSD are not making this, or getting a cut out of Summit, I would be very surprised and I would suggest that MSD need to get a better lawyer. http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-850610/overview/ Opening the box we have the sturdy unit (Aluminium heat sink case), w

Having put up with a succession of worn distributors, I enquired about the cost of rebuilding my distributor with a local Adelaide specialist. After being quoted $650 AUD to rebuild, I took this as a clear sign that I needed to get a 123 Tune distributor as this was exactly how much I had been quoted for a 123 Tune by the Australian distributor for one. Entirely coincidentally, 'The Great 123 Group Buy of 2016' was on and despite getting a haircut on a few foreign currency conversions, I still came out about $200 AUD ahead. Nice work @Captain Manly! The distributor arrived in good

I have Pertronix in 002 dizzy. Which coil would be better: PerTronix 40511 Flame-Thrower 40,000 Volt 3.0 ohm Coil OR Bosch 00012 BLUE Ignition Coil ?? About the same price.

Hi forum! Is there a good article or post here to follow when trying to do a complete systems check under the hood? Got my multimeter ready and am eager to find the culprit for not getting spark. Thanks!

Car wouldn't start after brief stops so I figured the battery was dead. Put a new one in and it still won't start. Starter engine turns and turns, but won't start the engine. Any ideas! Has a weber carb on it. Already tried it with the filter off and choke flaps held open. Pushed it 2 feet in 2nd gear, nothing. Fuel lines are full (well, half full nearest to carb, but it's always been that way). Fuel pump (electric) is happily pumping when I turn the key to ignition. Any ideas? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've searched the forums an the internet for generally simlar issues with no avail. Key in the on switch postion, no dash lights but turn indicators and headlights light up strong as ever. Crack the car and the engine starts up no problem but it will not idle pressing the accelorator and while running I have no dash lights or gauge cluster activity. No burnt fuses, battery pulls strong and fires the engine without hesistation. Seems to me as an electrical issue as it coincides with no gauge cluster activity. Possible bad ground? bad ignition switch? any help would be greatly appeciated.

Hi guys, I have a small problem that I am so sick of and can't get my head around. I did a MSD CDI upgrade a few months ago, the Streetfire version, and I can't get the tach to go. I have read every MSD Streetfire upgrade thread, and Noone has needed to use a tach adapter. Everyones tach works fine with a direct feed from the gray wire. But for some reason mine does not. I have bought and tried the tach adapter however. Does anyone have any suggestions I can try? I will take any suggestion.. I have tried everything but hopefully I have missed something. I am running a bluetooth 123 dizzy, MSD blaster 2 coil. Everything else seems to work fine. Please helpppppppp Appreciate every second of your time, Arlo.

Hey I was wondering what others readings are with their AFR. Mine seems to bounce around a lot under acceleration, I am not sure if that is normal or something is a little wonky. I have been playing with jets since under part throttle on the primary only I was getting up to 16-17 on the AFR meter. I jumped up two sizes on my primaries 32/36, from 140 to 160. then it pegged rich (10.0). So I backed it down to 150, it was fine, then I replaced the vac hose going to my booster (which was suspect) then it almost pegged rich (10.8) now I am back at 140 on my mains. Under part throttle, it swings from 11-16. All the vacuum ports are closed up tight. A little background MDS 6a Ignition 123 dizzy New exhaust header gaskets New Carb plate gasket New Carb (less than 6 months old) Plugs gapped at .40 ( a little wide but it seemed to like it) Cap and rotor are in ok shape, a little bit of grey dust inside, but otherwise good. Electric fuel pump running 3.0 PSI (with gauge and regulator) Stock air cleaner, crankcase vented into the air cleaner. Is it normal to get this wide a reading?

I can insert the key into the ignition switch on my 1972 2002, but I can not get the key to turn to any other position. This has been coming on for some time and I could eventually get the switch to turn and the car to start. I used my back-up key and it worked OK for a while, but I can not get that key to turn the switch. It appears to me that the key is not engaging the steering wheel lock/unlock mechanism properly. It there a trigger at the end of the lock tumbler that releases the wheel lock and allows the tumbler to turn? If so, can it be repaired? I've noted that the tumbler can be removed. Can they be replaced with a new one or is my only option to replace the entire ignition switch assembly? I'd appreciate any insight folks can offer. JTW

hello FAQ members I am installing a new ignition lock onto my 1974 and was wondering if anyone had any pictures or diagrams telling where the cable placement goes ie: green cable purple and etc. thanks in advance.

Should the ignition table for EDIS be adjusted when switching from a single inlet to individual inlets? I'm thinking single carbs and throttle bodies versus sidedrafts and ITBs. I am transferring an EDIS system from an M10 that ran with a single 32/36 weber to an M10 with DCOMs. Should any adjustments be made in the MAP/advance table?

Now's your chance to upgrade to that newfangled sparkly Bluetooth 123! Just sell me your gently-used programmable 123 distributor which you impulse-bought before the Bluetooth unit became available (and have been kicking yourself ever since!) Act now! Cheers,

I have a 74 02 base. I just finished an engine rebuild and the car fired right up, but it runs terribly. from a cold start it runs fairly well, fires on all cylinders, but then a few seconds after the car starts the idle drops and the engine shakes a lot and misfires. It shakes the whole car. If I increase the rpms by quickly jumping to half throttle or more it runs fine there but as soon as I leave off the gas it starts shaking again. I've spent about a month trying to figure out what is wrong with it and I am no closer to finding the problem than when I started. I read online that having a larger cam can cause poor idle quality and that carb adjustments might help but I don't know what to do. I am now here to appeal to the divine collective wisdom of the faq for help. here is a list of all the parts I have installed/replaced in the rebuild: Wiseco pistons and rings (.002 oversize, the block has been machined to fit them) valve stem seals valves(top end was rebuilt by napa) schrik camshaft 292 32/36 Weber carb new coil oridium spark plugs ( all plugs are getting spark and are gaped correctly at .6mm) new 8mm spark plug wires distributer cap and rotor points (.4mm gap) condenser timing and oil pump chains timing rail and tentioner fuel pump While the previous owners had the car the hanger bearing broke off its mount and the driveshaft hit the exhaust pinching it halfway shut, I'm not sure this has anything to do with my problem though. I bought an ansa sport exhaust to replace it but haven't yet installed it.

Hello all - My final rebuild items are wrapping up and as some of you might remember, I was having an issue that mysteriously my "L" alternator dash light was staying lit EVEN when the ignition was totally off and key removed. New alt and VR, so could be some other item... but have not been able to get to car to test new VR/alt replacements. But in studying the issue, I learned that one side of the "L" lamp is connected to alt D+ and the other is connected to +12 when the car is running. Hence any volt difference > ~2 v causes the light to light. But when the car is not running and the key removed, that +12 side should be open with no ability to flow current. But somehow mine is. I have been wracking my brain for ideas and then I remembered that earlier in the day I had squirted a couple puffs of powdered graphite into the ignition cylinder to ease up the motion. I searched FAQ and saw it recommended over the years. But then last night I found out that powdered graphite is indeed a conductor, contrary to what I would have thought. So my question is... since I have never taken apart the ignition cylinder... is there any way that the graphite powder could have shorted out some of the ignition connections? I am not sure if the mechanical "key" part of the lock cylinder is completely isolated from the electrical portions of the 4 settings of OFF, XXX, RUN and START.. Anyway, I was just wondering if there are any ignition lock cylinder experts out there who could comment Randy

So l was doing some carb work on my 72 02, the battery died out from cranking when I had everything back together to fill the float. I removed it and put it on the charger, and it remained out of the car for a few days. Very next time I put it in the car, the starter turns as soon as I connect the red cable, the damn thing almost drove off bc I left it in 1st gear lol! Is this a ground problem maybe? The key still turns the ignition and I can feel the mechanism/tumbler engage, but I also did see some smoke from under the steering wheel when I left the starter turn for a minute to have a look. Thoughts on which wiring is causing this before I start tearing everything out? Gremlins are the worst.

Need Help. 1974 TII: Car has not run since 1995 The ignition wiringing is all hacked up and I do not have power to the coil when ignition is in the on position or cranking position. Car does turn over. First picture is the wire terminating directly to the + side of the coil. There is no resistor as I have seen in some documentation. The connector has 2 wires. A red/black and a gold (Yellow) The red/ black wire combine into shrink wrap with a black wire. The red/black is cutoff at the other end and doesn't terminate to anything The black wire Y's off and there is a connector on one leg that terminates to nothing and the other side terminates to a black plastic module (resistor?) The other end of the black Y'd wire feed into the connector that plugs into the HT Ignition module (?) The Gold (Yellow Wire) combine via shrink wrap with a Green/White wire and both appear to terminate to fuse 12 in the fuse box. The Green /White wire also terminates to the HT Ignition module plug that can also be seen in the pictures above. Any help on what I can do to get power to the coil would be most appreciated. Thank you

WTB a vacuum advance can in working condition that will work on my 1970. My distributor is 0 231 115 081 JFUR 4 Supposedly vac specs are: starts @ 5.12” (115mm) ends at 8.27” (210mm) adjustment max = 10degrees CS I'm open for just the can or a full distributor with one. I have a confirmed Paypal account. Shipping to Baltimore, Maryland USA PM or email to dave AT flyingtigertransport.com Thanks!

If you haven't seen it, you can use this spreadsheet to 3D visualize your ignition curve, no matter what programmable ignition product you are using.. you can even map the stock curve just for kicks. Putting it here for easy(er) access. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/links/category/5-technical-links/

Hi I have been looking for a decent answer last week and get nothing, so i hope some one here can help me. I'm running: 123\BMW-4-R-V, basic version 292 IE camshaft +1oversized SS IE valves ported e12 cylinder head 90mm 9.5:1 cast coated QSC pistons 71mm crankshaft wich give me a total of 1806cc Now i have two specific questions: 1) What to do with vacuum port on 123Ignition distributor? Just let it free? I did some research and it seems like i can take off the vacuum from one of the top ports on DCOE with this little fitting used for DELLORTO's but compatible with WEBER's, some one have used it? It can help me with something? I need your opinions. 2) I just found a 2.0-80mm crankshaft but it need to be machined 1mm/0.040/4th, i managed to find the corresponding rods and main bearings but i don't know if this will work, 4th undersize/oversize is too much? the machine shop told me it will work, my mechanic said it is junk, im taking my engine up to 7500 with no issues now, some one out there with a 4th sized crankshaft? I will be waiting for you comments.