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FunkyLaneO

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Everything posted by FunkyLaneO

  1. FunkyLaneO
    Charcoal canister for fuel vent.
  2. FunkyLaneO
    Lots of things can cause the horn not to work, the horn is a little different than most of the circuits on the car because the ground is switched as opposed to the positive side of the circuit before the relay and the positive is switched at the relay. Get your test light out or multimeter and check at every junction to see if it is receiving power, I would start at the horn itself and see if your test lights up when you push the horn button and work back to the relay, at the relay there should be power to two of the terminals when sitting and power to three and ground to one when the horn is pushed. I have found that most times the problem is the horn ring behind the steering wheel, it gets dislodged or disconnectes when steering wheels are changed out. HTH
  3. FunkyLaneO
    Esty is right, and since your resevoir is missing I don't beleive it fell off, it was removed intentionally. It will not affect anything other than not being able to wash your windows so if your car is overheating you will need to look elsewhere for the culprit.
  4. FunkyLaneO
    If you take the fusebox out you will see where the last wire connects, take the one screw out holding the box in and lift it out, disconnect the wire from the back of the fusebox and replace it with a single wire to your coil. What you do next depends on which coil you have. If you have a black coil: you will need either a ballast resistor or a resistor wire, the resistor wire has clear insulation and is located in your blue bundle (just cut the blue sheath and take it out, this only applies to 74-76 cars), otherwise you should have a resistor mounted near the coil, run the wire to there and then on to the coil.. If you have a blue or red coil: no resistor is needed, just run a wire from the back of fuse 12 directly to the positive terminal n the coil (use a green wire so people who look at it later will know it is switched power)
  5. FunkyLaneO
    it needs to match your rear end gearing, there should be a purple or blue number stamped on the back of your old one, you need to find one with the same number.
  6. FunkyLaneO
    I seriously doubt it is anybody you know. This type of spamming uses legitimate servers to deliver their mail, they create a message with a forged senders address (the intended recipient, you) and send it to an address they know is incorrect at a domain that will bounce the message back to the sender (a well set up email domain will not indiscriminately do this). The reason they do it this way is that the email is now coming from a "legitimate" domain and your spam filters do not see it as a problem. Backspatter approaches have become less common because email servers are set up better and spam filters are more sophisticated so they aren't very effective anymore but you do still see them. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backscatter_%28email%29 Besides, we like you Pat, even when you are angry ;-) we would never do that to you.
  7. FunkyLaneO
    A grand seems reasonable if they are going to freshen the head (valve job, guides, new seals, etc..) of course you can do it yourself for a lot less but if you are not comfortable doing it then getting it done by somebody reputable is not gonna be cheap but at least it will be done correctly and hopefully they should stand behind what they do.
  8. FunkyLaneO
    I would not do any soldering of anything connected to those spades, they are not intended to ever get hot enough to be soldered, the nylon will melt long before the solder will and you will have leaks and grounding problems. If attempting to solder there are techniques that you can use if you are soldering something connected close to the terminal, such as submerging the nylon portion in water, or putting an ice cube on the terminal but you can't really do that if you are soldering directly to the spade or post connected to it. Unfortunately that part of the sender isn't really serviceable. You could try soldering a wire to a piggyback connector then plug it into the spade after it cools, that might work but I am still not 100% understanding what you are trying to do. If you could post a picture that includes the entire top of the sender with lines drawn in where you are proposing the modifications we could get a better idea what you are trying to do and maybe propose a remedy.
  9. FunkyLaneO
    Oil Eater works well and does not discolor aluminum, and it is available at Costco for about $12 for 2 gallons.
  10. FunkyLaneO
    The winning bid each time is probably the seller himself trying to run up the price and getting stuck with the high bid, you see it alot with delusional sellers.
  11. FunkyLaneO
    The coolant leak is probably from the weep hole in your water pump, it may be on its way out. Grab ahold of the fan and give it a wiggle, if it wobbles or rattles your pump it getting close to needing replacing, when it gets loud or starts leaking larger amounts of coolant then it will be time to replace it.
  12. FunkyLaneO
    M40 - 4-cyl sohc
  13. FunkyLaneO
    based on the marks on the exposed portion of the deck (exposed to the combustion chamber) it looks like something may have bounced around in there, not anything as big as a piece of a ring (I know what that looks like unfortunately) but maybe a spark plug electrode or something like that. just another possibility though corrosion seems more likely.
  14. FunkyLaneO
    That is part of your now removed smog system. it is a remnant that you will never have a need for, remove it and chuck it in your neighbors pool. that relay next to it is also part of the smog system and can go along with all the wires attached to it (in the blue sheath), do a search on desmog for more details. Next time post in the general section, this is the archive project area, hardly anybody will see your post. Lane
  15. FunkyLaneO
    San Diego is pretty far but if you were already making a day trip to see the sights you could stop by La Jolla Independent and visit Carl and see his cars.
  16. FunkyLaneO
    you set it up like a normal relay but run the negative coil wire (or tach wire) to post 31.
  17. FunkyLaneO
    Also feel the wires leading to the bulb. resistance = heat, if they feel warm when the light is dim then you know which wire/connection is the culprit. My guess is the ground wire but it could also be one of the new connections you made when you added in the relays.
  18. FunkyLaneO
    FYI/ here is a picture of the cap:
  19. FunkyLaneO
    For the block off plate: http://www.02again.com/ For the cap, I got mine at Home Depot in the plumbing section, I can't remember the size. You can also take the #14 out and put a penny in there and screw it back on but those eventually burn up and you have to replace the penny, the brass cap seems to last.
  20. FunkyLaneO
    The nut on the connector won't come off (part number 5) or the threaded adapter on the manifold (part number 14)? if you can get the pipe connector off (#5), leave the adaptor piece (#14) in there and get a brass cap at the hardware store, that little adapter converts the oddball thread in the manifold to a standard pipe thread. I was lucky and mine came off pretty easily so I capped it off years ago and it is still holding with the Home Depot brass cap.
  21. FunkyLaneO
    Call IE, they are good folks and stand behind their stuff. I am sure you will get the info you need from them and I seriously doubt they will suggest that you cut the springs. It is probably something simple that was overlooked, my first thought was that the rear springs ended up on the front and vice-versa but that is just a guess.
  22. FunkyLaneO
    BMW seal is softer, the URO seals are really stiff at first and take a long time to soften up (and even then they are never as pliable as the BMW ones), they also do not fill the gap on the leading edge of the window frame so you end up with wind noise. I bought them during the period that the BMW ones weren't available and wished I could have waited for them to be available again as the URO ones just aren't a very good replacement.
  23. FunkyLaneO
    I have always let them cure before installing the manifold but if you have the shouldered studs and you snug them down they should not rotate further so I can't see why you could not install everything at once. Lately all I have gotten have been the studs that don't have the shoulder (all threaded) if you have those I would let it cure for good measure (especially the top row of studs as they will will never bottom out).
  24. FunkyLaneO
    I've fixed mine, I'll take a crack at yours. always nice to have a spare.
  25. FunkyLaneO
    There are a bunch of different options for Carburetors on these cars so find out what is on there and we can maybe point you in the right direction. If you aren't sure what it is by looking at it then post a picture so somebody can identify it for you. The original was a single barrel Solex that may or may not be rebuildable depending on it's condition, some parts are available for those and some aren't, if it was replaced with a Weber then pretty much any part you would need is available and there is a wealth of info on the web on rebuilding those.
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