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Found 91 results

  1. I am in the process of replacing the inserts in my front struts (first time for me). To remove the struts, I first dropped the pivot end of the control arm to make it easier to remove the inner bolt attaching the bottom of the strut to the steering arm. The struts are ready to go back in, but I cannot align the control arm with the pivot bolt to reattach it. It’s very close, but not close enough to get the pivot bolt started. Is this normal? Do I need to remove the entire control arm and reinstall it starting with the pivot bolt? The car is on jack stands, so I don’t have a lot of room to “muscle” the control arm in to position. I've tried clamps without success. I need help, please.
  2. Hi all, i need some some help identifying the sway bar in the pic below. It came on the tii I bought. I’ve installed it on the car I’m restoring but would like to know how to properly adjust it so I can “tune” the suspension. Any idea, you knowledgeable folks out there?
  3. alignments are easy on 2002's. here is one simple way to approach the job. Other who have done this or want to add the “string method” chime in. here is a 5min how to on setting alignment on a 2002. If you are starting from a recent suspension assembly, eyeball the front wheels straight, put the steering box in the middle, and the steering wheel centered. Make sure the tie rods are the same length. If checking toe on an intact car or have completed the above on new front parts.. Center the wheel. Jack up front and loosen the adjustment bolts on the tie rods. (don’t need to jack up if you can get your hands under there to loosen’em.) Put car back down. remember to roll the car forward and back a few times after jacking to allow the tires and suspension to "relax". Now get two tape measures and your choice of “plates”. Nice Or what you have in the garage.. Set the plates against outside of front tires Run one tape in front of wheels, one tape behind. Hook dumb end of tapes on far plate. Read tapes on near plate. Make sure plates are against tires and tapes are tight. If front measurement smaller than back you have toe in. front bigger equals toe out. If you want to adjust, spin the adjusters on the tie rods (if old tie rods, you may have to spray some penetrant on the threads.) After each adjustment, roll the car back and forth a few feet and measure again. Once you have the toe where you want it, jack front back up and tighten the adjuster lock bolts back up. Done. Suggested settings (basic…ymmv) Normal street – 1/16in toe IN Track – zero Auto-x – 1/16in toe OUT Option three….longacre toe bar Then get out your digital camber/caster tool…. Nevermind…another time….
  4. This write-up was revised on 8 Aug 2013. The photos in the original post were lost due to me fiddling around on Photobucket and breaking the links. I tried to recover most of what was originally there but some photos have escaped me. The suspension can be rehabbed in pieces or completely. Defining "completely" is scetchy. Completely can mean all of the bushings, brake components plus shock and strut components. Let's tackle the suspension bushings first. This is not a technical writing but a guide or forewarning of what to expect. There may be ways to rehab the suspension in the car but I will address the procedure as if the suspension is out of the car. Boy I feel inadequate to do this. The front suspension rehab consists of replacing the bushing in the frame, front axle support and tension rod, at the very front of the car, sway bar bushes, control arm bushing or the control arm itself, ball joints and idler arm bushings Parts from a Paul Wegweiser list from years ago. Part numbers need verified, seems like BMW changes them often. 31 12 2 614 006 lower control arm (includes bushings) 31 13 1 108 439 ball joint (KIT) 32 21 1 113 178 safety bolt for steering arm to strut, each 31 13 1 108 373 front subframe bushing (std 2 per car) 31 13 1 108 374 front subframe bushing (turbo 2 per car) 32 21 1 115 116 idler arm bushings (2 per car) Idler arm bushings. I believe the control arm needs removing before you can rehab the idler arm. Remove the cotter pin and the castlenut, pop off the metal cap and persuade the idler arm to move down through the bushings. Remove the old bushing from the idler arm housing or off of the idler arm itself. It may require using punches, drifts or grabbing and twisting with vice grips. To reinstall, place the new lower bush on the idler arm and the upper one in the housing. Insert the idler arm in the housing and through the upper bush. I need to verify if lubrication is needed. Place the metal cap on and the castle nut, torque to spec. 58-72 lb-ft Bushing at front axle support and tension rod You can use the stock, turbo or urethane bushing. The black one is the turbo. Red is the urethane. This is a tired bushing and needs replaced. This is a home made bushing tool. It is a 1 1/2 inch PVC coupler cut in half, all thread and a series of washers. The concept is the washer that is bigger than the coupler has a washer up against it, the washers on the other end are the size of the bushing or a scooch smaller in diameter. As you tighten the nut against the large washer, the all thread and smaller washers pull the bushing through the PVC. The job of the piece of the PVC on the side being pulled through, keeps the bushing from "bunching up" before it pulls through the metal housing. I had to place a wrench between the two pieces of PVC to keep them straight. I am sure there is a more sophisticated way to do this. Use this tool to remove and install new rubber bushes. Urethane are split and install without a tool.Urethane bushes need lubed to reduce squeaking. Sway bar bushes are pretty straight forward, just decide if you will use stock or urethane. Use hex cap bolts instead of hex head bolts. It is difficult to get a wrench or socket on the bolt head. Socket head bolts work the best. You can see the socket head bolts in the picture below. End Links I used Spicer Teflon bushing for the end links. Urethane is readily available too. I do not like the the way I did the bolts above. I like the threads up. Saves them from getting buggered up from the road. Control Arms There is a way to replace the inner and outer control arm bushes, they are different sizes and some suppliers have a hard time getting this straight so be careful if you order them. However, there is a lot to be said for just replacing the control arm. Inspect your old one and if it is bent from POs poor choice of a lifting point or if your not into removing the old bushes, just purchase the control arm and it comes with new bushes. I found this link (thanks to Jerry, Pinepig and Zenon) with great instructions on replacing the control arm bushing. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,283064/highlight,/ The pictures below may help you get the spacers and washers in the proper order in case you did not document this well when it was disassembled. Ball Joints I failed to get good photos of the ball joint replacement. One of the big challenges is getting the bolt that holds the ball joint to the pitman arm off. Use your best and biggest tools to get it loose. On reassembly, fill the cavity with grease to make it easier on your son when he has to replace it again in thirty years. Uncle CD says all mating surfaces should be clean metal, no paint or powder coating Be diligent in using the right grade of bolts. New ball joint kits come with the correct hardware. Grade 8.8. When you attach the struts to the pitman arms, most will recommend to use the bolts with the nut with the hole in so all three bolts can be safety wired together part number 32 21 1 113 178. Some will make an argument that high grade bolts with locktite is safe. BMW recommends the safety type bolts and safety wire. I have done it both ways. Completed front suspension. Struts One of the harder parts in replacing the strut inserts is deciding which ones to use, Bilstein HDs or Sports, Boge, Koni, etc. Once you decide, disassemble the strut assembly using safe spring compressors. Most strut inserts have a socket head on the end of the strut so you can hold it while you spin the Nyloc nut loose. You may find some poo inside the strut tube. Many stories on what it is and why it is there. No need to replace whatever it was. Be careful trying to coat the inside of the tube with paint or POR-15. It can make things too tight for the insert to go back in. Reassemble and use new strut bushing if you need them. I believe the ones for the e-21 (GUIDE SUPPORT M8X18 31 33 1 110 195) have shorter studs and make the top of your inner fenders look tidier. Lube the strut bushing bearing. I like that good red grease for this. This is a shot of the washers and cups for the strut bearing and shock assembly, thanks to someone who posted this on the FAQ, The photos below is my youngest son, Revvin Evan, doing the safety wire for me. He does all the connectors on his bike so he is pretty good at this. Safety wire is available at speed shops, bike shops, JEGS, Summit etc. The safety wire tool makes spinning the wire easy. When you install the struts on the pitman arms, use new safety bolts and safety wire. Wrap the safety wire so it traps the bolts and does not let it turn. Shortened Springs Shortened or shorter springs want to move from the rubber pads when the car is jacked up. To seat them properly involves putting your hands around the springs when the car is lowered. To eliminate this, the springs can be wired to the upper metal cap. Drill a hole in the cap and use a stainless steel wire to catch the upper coil on the spring and the spring will stay in place when the car is jacked up. The words below are from Creighton Demeresk. His post and illustrative diagrams can be see at: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/topic_view,threads/p,365939/t,282258/ go with the .028" wire and/or 0.032" buy from any Racers Supply on line Safety Wiring Techniques Safety wiring is not mysterious or difficult. It really only takes some time and practice, and will soon become second-nature for you at the track. Safety wiring should always be done to keep bolts or nuts from backing out. That means always wire in the direction that will tighten the bolt. Safety wiring is also done to prevent any part that does come loose from falling onto the track and causing damage to another bike or rider. It never hurts to safety wire any critical part of your bike, such as controls, beyond the requirements in the rulebook. Now that you know what you need to safety wire, you're probably wondering how to do it. First, go out and get the following items: Safety wire pliers. Just buy a pair just like the ones in the picture. These are available at larger bike shops, racing supply companies, and even JC Whitney. Some people might suggest that you can use a "twirl tool" or a pair of needle-nose pliers, but you will be much happier with a pair of real safety wire pliers. Borrow a pair if you must. A can of stainless steel safety wire. Some racers use ½ to a full pound can per season. The best overall size to buy is .032" diameter, although having a can of .028" and some .050" can be handy for tight spaces or damage repair. Safety wire is available at most motorcycle shops. A variable speed drill and a dozen 1/16" drill bits. If you have access to a drill press, that can make the job faster. The tiny drill bits will only last 4 to 6 bolts. They will break often, even if you're careful, and dull quickly. Pick up a few 3/32" bits also. Be sure to keep the bit lubricated while drilling. How to drill Except for a few places on your bike where bolts are already drilled for a cotter pin, the nuts and bolts on your bike will have to be drilled before they can be wired. There are various ways to do this. It is best to use a drill press and a small vice to hold the fastener or part. Whether you have a press or a hand drill, here are some tips. First, go easy with those little drill bits. It takes very little force to break one. Lubricate the drill bit periodically with light oil. This helps it cut faster and also cools the bit. When the bit is about to clear the far side of the item you need to be careful that you don't snap the bit. Many nuts and bolts are surface hardened and that last section takes the longest. Throw out a drill bit when it gets dull. Most bolts can be drilled straight through the hexagonal head, as in the first figure. Drill from flat to flat, and keep the hole centered. For the studs of some mounting bolts where a portion of the threads protrude, you might opt to drill through the shaft and wire in the fashion of the cotter pin found in most rear axles. If you do this, put a nut on the bolt first so that you can clean up the threads by taking the nut off. Banjo bolts (used on brake and oil lines) are hollow and cannot be drilled straight through. These must be corner drilled, as shown in the next figure. Hexagonal nuts are drilled across one of the corners. This is a three step process. The drawing shows the drill bit pointed at the flat of the nut. Drill straight in until the bit is in about 1/16 inch. Then turn the nut in the vice about 15 degrees. Continue drilling until the bit is in about 1/8 inch. Finally, turn the piece again so that you can drill all the way through the corner. Allen head bolts may be drilled through either one or both sides. Be sure to drill though the flats of the allen or you will weaken the grip offered the allen wrench. Drilling through both sides will make wiring the bolt easier. How to wire Once you have the nuts and bolts drilled and reinstalled, you need to wire them in place. You should first ensure that everything is torqued properly. Over-torquing a fastener will weaken the threads, and repeated over-torquing can lead to failure. Your bike's manual will have the torque and thread treatment specifications for each fastener. If appropriate, loctite or lubricate the threads first. You then need to wire the item as an insurance procedure. When wiring nuts or bolts, there are several techniques used. The first is to wire the nut or bolt to a convenient fixed object, such as the frame or a fork tube. Another common technique is to wire two or more fasteners together so that none of the fasteners can back off. A third approach is to wire the head of a bolt to the nut on the other end. The figures show the first two of these techniques. Most drain or fill plugs will be wired to a frame member or engine part. Brake caliper nuts and bolts are usually wired together. Fork pinch bolts can be wired together or to a fixed item. A muffler mounting bolt is usually wired to its own nut. The figure on the left shows a nut wired to a fixed member. It is best to start by looping the wire around the member and twisting the wire together. Continue twisting until the twisted part reaches just short of the nut or bolt. Thread one piece of the wire through the hole on the nut or bolt. Pull the wire tight and then continue twisting the wires together. Leave about 1/2 inch of twisted wire and cut off the rest. Throw the ends in the garbage can immediately. Tuck the end around so that you can't cut yourself on it. Tension should be kept on the nut or bolt in the tightening direction. The diagrams here show the wire in a loose fashion so that you can see the idea. Your completed wiring should be neat and tight. Always discard your excess wire in a trash can. Those little pieces of wire can flatten a tire in no time. Always use caution when working with safety wire. The ends are very sharp and can easily cut your fingers. When you have finished wiring a nut or bolt, bend the end of the wire so that it doesn't protrude and create a hazard. This figure shows two nuts wired together. The procedure is similar to wiring to a fixed object. Loop the wire through the hole of one of the nuts (or bolts). Twist the wire and maintain tension on the wire in the tightening direction of the nut. Continue twisting until the twisted wire reaches just short of the hole for the second nut and wire that nut. The wire should pass between the nuts to maintain tension on both nuts when the job is done. This process may be continued to wire additional nuts in succession, such as an oil filter cover, sprocket nuts, or water pump. If your bike has a spin-on type oil filter, it can be wired in place by placing a hose clamp around the filter, then running a piece of safety wire from the clamp to the frame or another fixed object. Another area which requires special techniques is fuel and water lines. You can use the spring loaded clips that come stock on most bikes, or use small hose clamps. If you use safety wire, be careful because you can cut through the hose by using too much tension. Small zip ties will also work. Water lines are usually clamped with standard hose clamps. One precaution you can take is to thread same safety wire through the slot on the screw of the clamp, then attach the wire to the clamp. This will keep the hose clamp from loosening. Rear Suspension The car needs supported some place other than the usual place on the subframe. I run a 4x4 across the car in front of what BMW calls the Push Rod (these are the bars that connect the sub-frame to the body) and set that 4x4s on jack stands. Disconnect the flexible brake lines and curse the nastiness of brake fluid that goes everywhere but in the pan. Disconnect the emergency brake cables, shocks, differential support bracket, two large nuts that connect the suspension to the body, support bars and the driveshaft. You may find disconnecting the shocks easier from the trunk. On most shocks there is a allen socket in the top of the shock, you can place a box end wrench around the nut on the top of the shock, hold the shock securely with the allen wrench and loosen the 17mm (guessing) nut on top of the shock, that is usually a nyloc nut. Disconnect the drive shaft with a friend. Engage the parking brake, break loose one of the nuts on the drive shaft at the differential. Have your friend release the brake, rotate the shaft, engage the brake, break loose the next nut, so on and so on. By the way, after you have done this once, you will find a way to put a set of flex head gear wrenches in your tool box. Working these nuts is worth the price of these wrenches. Lowering the suspension justs involves placing a floor jack under the differential and lowering it slowly while balancing everything. The spring will just fall out as you lower the suspension. Going at it this way allows you to refresh the brake fluid and the flexible brake lines. Tired rear suspensions look like this. Again, this parts list is old, one I got from Paul Wegweiser years ago. Part numbers need verified, seems like BMW changes them often. 33 33 1 103 926 rear sub-frame mounts (up to 1974) 33 33 1 113 342 left rear sub-frame mount (1974 on) 33 33 1 113 343 right rear sub-frame mount (1974 on) 33 17 1 104 266 diff bushing inserts only 33 32 9 061 945 trailing arm bushing set (4 bushings total) As a note, install the end of the flex line that attaches to the bottom of the car first, even before the sub-frame is placed. For some reason BMW placed that connection just above the rear sub-frame and it is difficult to get to once the sub-frame is in place. Inside the sub-frame is a captive nut like thing that holds the hex head thing on the flexible brake line. Sway Bar Link Bushes As with the front sway bar link bushings, these are pretty straight forward. Just decide on what you want, stock, urethane or teflon. Teflon Urethane Bearings and Races Even though replacing the bearing races and seals are not covered in this post, one method of pulling the hubs is shown along with the spacers inside the rear hubs. Trailing Arm Bushings Removing the trailing arm bushing is accomplished in several ways. One way is to stink up the place and burn the rubber out and then remove the steel sleeve. The way shown here is using a BMW bushing removal tool. A homemade tool with PVC, washers and all thread works too. Once you know how to use the tool to remove and insert the bushes, it is an easy process. Oldest son using a bearing and race set to set the races/bearings Upper Shock Bushings Not a big deal to replace these. Just find a way to remove the old ones, prising with a screw driver works, them just lubricate with your favorite soap or glycerin and push them in from the top. Rear Carrier Bushings The rear carrier bushings come in a "bolt-on" unit. To replace, just unbolt the old unit and re-bolt the new unit on. Just be aware, the units for round and square light cars are different. Note: Insert the bolts in the bushing unit then insert the bolts through the sub-frame. The bolts can not be inserted if you place the bushing unit flush against the sub-frame. Nobbs go up! The rear carrier is different for earlier and later cars, be careful ordering parts. The rear carrier bushes can not be flipped on early cars. Differential Carrier Bushings BMW used to offer the carrier and the bushings as one unit, now they only offer the bushings. To replace these, I had them pressed out and the new ones pressed in with a press. Rear - After
  5. Introduction: The following is a very basic listing of what constitutes a true racing suspension for a trackworthy 2002. Be aware that different sanctioning bodies will require different setups, so check your rule books! Or, don't and just race against yourself! Front Suspension: Adjustable height coil over for standard 2.5”ID racing springs Springs – 400 to 425 lb/inch x 7” Shorten struts approximately 2” Shocks – special shorter body (VW Rabbit) Bilsteins Bend struts 1 to 1.5 degrees for maximum camber adjustment Adjustable racing camber plates with solidly-mounted spherical bearings Camber setting – 3.5 degrees total camber and toe out 1/16” to 1/8” Strut brace – should be straight not bent Urethane bushings for control arms and strut rod Sway bar – Ireland Engineering 22mm hollow bar or 25mm solid bar Rear Suspension: Custom adjustable camber and toe installation necessary to achieve: Camber and toe settings of – 2.25 to 2.5 degrees camber and toe in 1/16” to 1/8” Stock-location springs – 350 lb/inch – Optional weld-reinforce stock shock towers for coilover rear shocks – adjustable height coil over springs on shocks – 275 lb/inch x 8” Coilover shocks – Bilstein sport Sway bar – Ireland solid 22mm adjustable bar Urethane bushings for trailing arms and differential mount Solid aluminum rear subframe mounts
  6. Simeon

    Rear End Tune Up

    The rear suspension on my car was pretty tired looking and like most things where I don't have a detailed knowledge of its history, I was not prepared to take any chances with it. Certainly we are planning an interstate move to Sydney before the end of the year so I wanted to finish up on the big jobs that would keep the car from getting a Road Worthiness Certificate in New South Wales. South Australia is more relaxed about testing old cars and as long as you keep up to date with your registration then they don't test you. There was no obvious play in the suspension but the bits of bush you could see projecting outside the trailing arms looked cracked and perished. It looked like this was the original suspension, at least as far as bushes are concerned. The shock absorbers were, I think, 80's vintage KYBs. I say 80's because the rubber bushes were heavily perished in the same manner as the trailing arm rubber. While the bushes may have been shot, the shocks themselves seemed fine in terms of consistent pressure when depressing them and they consistently returned to their extended position. People criticise KYBs as being too harsh ( they may be) but they certainly seem to be pretty well made. Out go the KYBs and in come the HD Bilstein shocks to match those up front. While doing the bushes, I also decided to rebuild the rear brakes - so shoes, drums, handbrake cables (my old ones were well stretched with small sections of pipe to keep the threads useful). I also bought rear wheel bearings but I set myself the task of completing the work over a weekend and over stretched myself a bit. I couldn't shift the 36mm hub nut with either my air impact wrench or a breaker bar with a long cheater pipe, so short of getting destructive to shift the nuts (I have no easy replacements) discretion was the better part of valour and the bearings lived to fight another day. I had quite a haul from Walloth & Nesch, especially in terms of weight, so it's good to take advantage of their fixed rate shipping. When I opened the box, I was impressed that they included a nicely bound parts catalog. Of course it's only marketing but I am a sucker for the hi-res exploded diagrams. Everything other than the hubs came apart as it should. After slowly releasing the tension on the springs by jacking up the trailing arm and disconnecting the shocks, the springs and shocks came out. I then stripped the drum brakes, carefully removing the rear wheel cylinders. These are 'only' 6 years old and in perfect condition so they are getting reused. The drums were pretty worn and right on the wear limit plus the shoes, while not that worn, were showing some troubling cracking. I got a pair of rear flexible hoses since I wasn't 100% certain I wouldn't destroy them on the way out. In the end the existing ones, also replaced 6 years ago, were in perfect condition so I left them in place. Having removed the springs and shocks it made it easier to reach in from the side to get the halfshaft hex bolts. Not wanting to risk stripping any of the bolts with my air impact wrench, I cobbled together all of my 1/2" socket extensions until I could extend beyond the body to get a good swing with a breaker bar after giving the hex socket a good smack with a hammer to make sure it is seated. On one occasion this still wasn't enough given prior damage so I ended up having to drill the head off with an 11mm drill before winding the stub out with vice grip pliers once the half shaft was removed. I placed the trolley jack head on the flat plate in front of the diff and took the weight. I removed the 'push rods' from under the floor and then undid the large nuts on the body to subframe studs. These came off without any undue problems and with some care the subframe was lowered to the ground and dragged out from under the car. The strip down went quickly and I moved onto tackling the bushes. With the combination of the screw and nuts from a professional bush installation set and some half arsed pieces of PVC pipe, I pulled the old bushes out having followed Toby's tip of heating them with a torch until they smoked to release the 'stiction' between the trailing arm and the bush. Toby also said that most bushes are actually in good condition internally, and these were exactly that. The subframe and trailing arms all got a standard treatment of jet wash, degreaser, jet wash again, knotted cup wire brush in an angle grinder followed by scrubbing with wax and grease remover. The parts were then given two good coats of epoxy machine enamel before reassembly. Nuts and bolts not due for replacement (I replaced all of the hex hardware on the half shafts as well as the sway bar mounts and fasteners) were degreased, wirebrushed and shot with a little zinc galv paint to clean them up. The rubber subframe mountings were date marked as December 1972 which would align with the build date of my car being March 1973. See this post They showed some deep cracking but again felt quite solid for something that is 44 years old, off to the neighbour's pool! While these bushes looked like being original, it was obvious that my rear suspension had seen some work over the years as the left hand trailing arm is a standard 'open' style and the right hand a plated tii trailing arm. Accident? Rust? Who knows. The subframe beam appears straight and the trailing arm tabs look perfect so who knows? I did think of plating the other side but I have heard stories of this warping them and it increasing the rate that they rust out, so I am sticking with my mix of arms for now. The handbrake cables caused some swearing due to their awkwardness, a dark spot and difficult working angle through the passenger door. The old cables came out relatively easily but the new ones took some fiddling to get in. I pulled out the hand brake lever to get access to the new ends and the guts of the ratchet mechanism flew out and the button took off and struck the windshield. I then had to research how it all went back together on the FAQ. I got a bit of practice reassembling that handbrake lever until I realised that I needed to pull the cables far enough through the hole that the threaded section was completely clear and the handle was only bearing upon the cable themselves. Locking pliers, zip ties and levering with a screw driver gave the required cable extension while I squeezed the handle into place without dislodging the ratchet mechanism. Cables firing back into the tunnel, buttons shooting out, swear words flying. Thankfully done now; another job that I would pay money to have seen demonstrated on a moving production line in Munich. While the rear suspension is out, I cleaned and repainted the rear wheel wells and panels under the boot floor. I jetwashed and scraped the collection of road dirt, loosened undercoat and hardened oil out before treating it to two coats of white epoxy enamel with a brush. The existing paint was in excellent condition in general and this served to clean things up more than avert any kind of structural crisis. This car, apart from the issues around the edge of doors, boot and bonnet has really proven to be structurally perfect and free from major rust. One of the benefits of spending your time inland on one of the dryest continents on earth. Reassembly went back together fairly smoothly, the swaybar mountings took some juggling to get right. I had to think hard about how to reassemble but at the same time not torque anything up until back on the wheels. New shocks were installed, springs and pads refitted along with the bumpstops (these were all cleaned up and were in good shape).
  7. Hi guys, I am getting ready to send suspension components out to powder coat and my control arms look like hell. Looking for a new/used but good condition set. Thanks, Pete
  8. TommyBennett

    GAZ Coilovers

    From the album: My BMW 2002

  9. TommyBennett

    GAZ Coilovers

    From the album: My BMW 2002

  10. From the album: My BMW 2002

  11. This is a bunch of malarkey! So….I grabbed a Stage 1 Kit from Ireland Engineering to kick my suspension refurbish off. Easy day, right? I’m a bit of a safety hound hence the 3 ton jack stands and stacked tires under the 1600. I get frequent visits from my 3 & 5 year old daughters. They always want to see what daddy is doing with his “race car”. Basically, I just started with ripping everything off after it was on the stands. Believe it or not, the part that took me a considerable amount of time was the old brake shoes. Those darn springs were giving me fits! Must go discs out back! One of my adjustment "nut" thingy's was pretty much stripped. Pseudo success! I had originally planned to go onto the military installation to sand blast as much as I could but I was horribly informed that they no longer support a sand blasting station. Dang it! Malarkey, I tell ya'! Sooo.... One idea was to break out the pressure washer and put unsuspecting friends to work in the back yard! ^The pressure washer worked amazingly well in the hands of BMW hoarder, Brooklyn Taylor! (This coming from the guy who was nice and dry....while, eating a peanut butter and jelly sandwich...) Brooklyn owns one of the only 6 speed manual equipped 850i's that I've seen in real life. V12 baby! VROOOOM. So I was left with a bunch of rusty parts with no sand blaster. Time to break out the grinder: I figured since he had so much horsepower, why not put a grinder in his hand while I got to work on something else! Probably should have covered the 70 Mustang.... Yes, it was covered in dust. More malarkey. Look what showed up! It came with a grinding wheel, but a quick trip to Lowe's rectified that with a 8" wire wheel. Priceless! After the wire wheel on the calipers, I started noticing weird things....like *different calipers* and *different brake pads*... *scratches head, moves on* Malarkey.... Rear drums were painted with engine paint. So were the calipers. Don't know how long that will hold up to the heat, but at least the brake fluid won't strip the paint! Onto the rear sub frame! FIRE!!! There's nothing like the smell of burnt rubber! More bushings.... A couple of relief cuts to release pressure so that I could use a hammer and chisel to knock these out. Paint! I did not use POR 15, rather, a good ole' can of Rustoleum. This is *not* huge resto. I just want to get the car well sorted for daily use. Rattle can will do just fine. Now let's put this thing together! Okay. In putting this thing together, I noticed that the bushings were different sizes on the ends. Basically, the thicker bushings go on the outside of the arms. So, I had to learn the hard way that these urethane bushings go in a "specific way". They are different sizes as you can see in the picture. Thick goes on the outside. Don't forget to grease these things as well! Another road block: I had to cut this little gusset down so that my bushings would actually fit. No problem! I was just shocked when I saw it. Here another thing. When I got these nice little sub-frame bushing stiffeners, they wouldn't slide through. If this happens, just take your wife's best steak knife and cut through the little membrane-like rubber mold to allow them to fit through. More paint... Half Shafts are "sooo" like late 60's early 70's... Due to this, I had to do basic maintenance. I like to keep this little bottle around...it's just easier to use for small jobs like this. No, this is not actually Craftsman oil going into my half shafts...These will be replaced with CV shafts... Grice? Where are you? Had to bend a few lines: Before: After: Somehow I can never make mine as pretty as the old lines. Wonder how long this is going to look like this! LOL Moving over to the front! Same basic stuff, bushings, but no shocks. Didn't feel I needed to spend another $200 for billys'. Not a lot of pictures... First off, I would not try to put the LCA on without an impact. :-) That bolt on the ball joint just spins and spins. Don't forget to pack it with a bunch of goo... Another issue I had when I put it back on was the new grade 5 bolts I had was rubbing the LCA. Couldn't have that so I went back to the old bolt in the inside location and just safety wired it. When the suspension compresses, there were no more issues. Much better! Actually, there were issues. Soooo, I screwed up. I painted the old shock tube with the shock in it. I taped everything up pretty well and it look really good when i finished. Problem is, I left a piece of tape on the shock cylinder.... You guessed it, the tape went into the shock body when I unintentionally compressed it and dorked up the seal. Replacement... *sigh* Things were just touch and go with getting this thing back together at this point.... Guess I over did it a little on the tranny fluid. (I never feel comfortable using the word "tranny"). Just saying. Next issue: Completely forgot to attach my springs with safety wire. Please do this "BEFORE" you put your stuff back together with shorter springs... DANGIT! Okay. Sometimes you just have to stop for the day, pop some popcorn and watch an episode of Game of Thrones. Another helpful tid bit: Tape to locate the spring while you are lowering it down. Oh one, more thing. My top spring perches were so worn that I had to add spacers at the top to keep the perch from rubbing. If I ever upgrade to coilovers, I won't have this problem. Maybe in the future. It's only money, right? I'll stop this here. I'm sure I'm missing some things. Please let me know if you have any questions? Cheers, Tim
  12. I had these springs installed on my '74 2002 for a couple of weeks and decided I wanted to go lower/adjustable. I was very pleased with the ride/handling balance (I also had Konis installed), but I wanted the ability to go much lower on my ride height so I changed to coilovers. These springs saw less than 50 miles before going back in the box. PM me for a shipping quote. These lower the car about 1.25 inches .
  13. This may seem silly to some but I'm asking anyway. I'm very close to starting reassembly of the cars suspension and drivetrain. Most everything has been powder coated semigloss black with the exception of the wheels, sway bars and diff cover (all oil rubbed bronze). My question is whether or not I should paint the new Bilstein dampers black to blend in with the rest or leave them yellow to let them stand out? My fear is that leaving them yellow will be too much standing out. Thoughts???
  14. RealOem says I need M8X20-ZNNIV SI bolts for the ball joint to control arm. Anybody know what that is in English?
  15. Parts from 1975 e10 BMW 2002 - Converting it to a track car so I am selling the following items:- Front and rear OEM US bumpers- Front and rear suspension (sub-frame, cross member, brakes, brake booster, steering box, trailing arms and rear differential) - Entire interior (Front and Rear Seats, door cards, etc.)- Complete Engine/Parts- Automatic Transmission- All the chrome trims Please PM me if you are interested. Thanks!
  16. Helo Everyone, I just changed the suspension setup on my 02 and i'm a bit sceptical about its height. I bought new dampers and sport coilovers that should lower the car about 3-4cm. Well, it definitely worked at the rear, but the front now seems very high compared to it. Is it normal? Does car have to drive a bit in order to settle? Did i mount the springs correctly? (Longer ones are at the front, smaller ones are at the back) I read somewhere that the springs have to be tightened when the car in on its wheels on the floor so that the whole weight of the engine is on them, is that right? Thanks in advance for your advices! Cheers!
  17. Hi all. I have my '73 tii in at a local classic german car shop for a full suspension rebuild. During the disassembly process, the tech (who is a former BMW dealer mechanic and 2002 owner) noticed that the springs have been cut by a full coil. This makes sense since my car rides about 1 1/2" lower than stock, which is about what one coil equals in height of a stock spring. I have always been impressed that the car rides pretty rough, and it does tend to hit th bump stops regularly. The tech and shop owner have recommended I replace the springs with something about the same height, but with the correct compliance and rebound characteristics. They found a couple of kits from Eibach and H&R that both lower the ride height approximately 1.0' and 1.25" respectively, so just slightly less drop than the cut stock springs have now. I did some calling around today and talked to the folks at Ireland (who have never done me wrong). They have a similar kit called their "IE Stage 1 Sport Spring Set" which is a bit cheaper and looks like it will keep the height about where it is, but provide a more compliant ride. The picture below shows how the car is presently sitting. The wheels are 13" Cosmos and car is a Saturday driver that I'm building more for reliability and safety than pure performance. I doubt I will ever track it, so I'm just looking for something comfortable that will still handle well. Does anyone have experience with the IE springs? How do they ride, and how much actual drop have they resulted in on your car? Any insights are much appreciated. Thanks, Crash
  18. Hi Guys, Looking for driver quality set of Front Strut Legs or Towers. Shipping to Florida please. Thanks!
  19. So I got crazy over the summer break and ordered adjusters for the front suspension from IE. I didn't realize that they were built for 2.5" springs. I didn't want to waste the IE Stage one springs, so I had a local machine shop (http://www.amtmachineshop.com/pages/amthome.htm) find a solution using the stock spring perches. I wanted to share what I think was a wonderful solution to the problem. He machined down the spacers, made a bushing to go over the 2.5" perches and made a spacer out of super crazy tough nylon stuff. He did a great job fast and at a fair price. Any input for a future solution would be greatly appreciated. Please take a look at the pictures. Regards
  20. Happy so far with my HR springs, 3 dot IE spring pads, and Bilstein HD shocks. Billy Sports were WAY too harsh for me. Thinking next step should be IE 22mm roll bars and maybe front strut brace. Use is around town fun car and playing around on mountain roads, maybe a few autox once in a while but not very regularly. Any thoughts on if this is a good plan, something different, or just leave it alone as I don't really have any complaints currently? Feedback and opinions welcome, thanks!
  21. Hi! I need to redo my front suspension first thing after the winter (i live in canada, so my beloved 1976 2002 sits in storage). I was searching the web for alternatives. Should I go OEM rebuild? I would need to buy new strut assemblies since they were starting to fall appart (1200 bucks each OEM). Or coilovers, where I think I could have something pretty good for 1500 bucks. Any suggestion for online shops with great prices and products? Thanks,
  22. Anyone looking to sell their Tii strut housings/tubes?


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