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Found 17 results

  1. Tesoro has some major bling going on! We got the custom bumpers and all new trim aligned and ready for show ! Just to reiterate how much time, measurement, and skill that went into this paint job and body work that has been done, it's like a mirror! .... Narcissus would have drowned in this paint job... ?
  2. Simeon

    Rubber Fetish

    When I took the glass out for paint, I knew I would not be reusing the front and rear windscreen seals. The old ones were throughly perished and the filler strip hard hardened into a brittle state. After reading the many reviews of Uro seals Vs BMW windscreen seals, I elected to go with BMW even though I went Uro with the door seals. My reasoning, apart from saving money was that the door is capable of adjustment but the windscreen is not. I started with the rear screen first and tried to follow the Blue Book method of installing the filler strip into the rubber before pulling it into the frame. I was somewhat hampered by it being a relatively cold late winter night in Adelaide (about 12 degrees C, 53 degrees F) and the filler strip had just been taken from the packaging where it had been coiled up for who knows how long. Not only was it in a lazy spiral it had a twist along its length. Every time I tried to feed it into the rubber it would often turn over in the slot and all of the pushing and shoving was either pulling the rubber off the glass or risking sliding the whole lot off the boot lid onto the floor (I had a polar fleece blanket on the boot lid to protect the paint and the glass). I thought that by not being installed I would be able to install the filler without a special tool - so confident was I that I ignored an opportunity to buy a new tool. After lots of swear words and failed attempts I decided to make my own tool by twisting up some brazing rod and trying it the 'old fashioned way' of installing the glass and rubber before the filler strip. I had made up the other recommended tool of a few metres of 3.5mm nylon ripcord and a piece of old radio aerial that the cord would fit through. After bell-mouthing one end so that the cord would run through easily this made the perfect applicator for the cord. The aerial piece is just inserted into the slot and run around the outside, installing the rope deep into the slot. After centering the screen on the opening, some careful slapping with my hand and pulling the rope, the seal and glass slid into the opening. A few areas where bits of seal needed pulling over the lip with a plastic trim tool but no dramas. Once the seal was in place the filler was relatively straight forward to install with some dish detergent and water for lubricant and my homemade installation tool. So much for the Blue Book! I learnt my lesson for the front screen and took the filler strip out of its bag and left it hanging from a rough truss, weighed down by some bulldog clips with old head bolts. When I first pulled my new Uro door seals from the bag, I was wary about their fit, mainly from what I had read but also because the lower door parts looked so alien. After stuffing the top section into the aluminium profile around the top of the door, the lower sections were glued into place using 3M weatherstrip adhesive. The surfaces to be glued were roughed up with sand paper and cleaned with wax& grease remover to remove any residue. A thin line of adhesive was run along the seal and spread thinly. A matching bead was run and spread on the door frame, both were then left to go tacky before being stuck together. After the adhesive, the pinch weld mouldings were replaced around the door and refitted 3/4 windows. After adjustment of the vent window and door glass, I had a few exploratory slams. Definitely needs a good shove but not as bad as could be expected. The upper seal section could do with being reduced in thickness (or made of softer material like the rear vertical section). I am tempted to trim this area back by a few millimetres to allow the vent frame to sit better in the seal. Overall it's not too bad though so I am going to give it a chance to compress before I do anything drastic. Homemade tools and the world's most useful tool.
  3. Day ~63 – 68 I’m trying to get a whole bunch of things done so that I can drive this car before winter comes and as you may know, it comes pretty quick around here. Weather Stripping/Seals - Driver/Passenger Doors Seals (Uro) I had read some negative reviews about the Uro door seals but I also read that some weren’t happy with the OEM version. Given the big price difference, I cheaped out and went with the Uro door seals. Installing the door seals, is a slight bitch. Jamming it in to the aluminum bracket channel isn’t fun and then removing it to add weather stripping adhesive is even less fun. When sticking the trim to the frame curvatures (where there is no channel), it’s not as it does not want to stay in place. Following the window adjustment, here are my issues with the URO door seals L - Trunk Seal (OEM) Much easier than the door seals, I simply stretched it out in to place and glued it in with some binder clips. - Front & Back Windshields (OEM) As with the headliner install, I followed ClayW’s instructions (BMW2002FAQ) for installation. Installing the glass with the seal was surprisingly easy, installing the lock-strip was a little more difficult but with the help of a lock-strip tool it wasn’t that bad. Interior Finishing - B-Pillar Trim I cut and glued in some new vinyl trim (fabric) on the B-pillars. Similar to what I did on the A-pillars but without a foam backing. - Door Cards (Rear) Cleaned them up, popped in new clips and installed them. - Carpet I purchased a carpet from Esty way back in Feb of 2015, it was finally time to install it. I used Myrtle’s instructions (BMW2002FAQ). It went in pretty easy, but like most things it was time consuming. About the carpet, I don’t like the way the 2 front pieces (driver/passenger “mats”) sit, they have pleats… but Esty does not recommend any additional insulation/sound deadening below the carpet so maybe the additional ½” - ¾“ made the difference. I think the pleats might ease out with some heat/time. - Handbrake Bearing Upgrade Installed the handbrake bearing upgrade I purchased from williamggruff (BMW2002FAQ), seems like a big improvement for little effort & money. - Seat Belts They functioned properly, so I simply washed them with some liquid laundry detergent and hung them out to dry before re-installing them - Speakers The front speakers were originally in custom pods when the foot rest would normally be, I didn’t like that… so I mounted them under the dash. I’ll see how that works out, and might change it in the future but for now, out of sight out of mind. - Seats/Steering Re-Installed the Moto-Lite wood wheel on the weekend… then re-installed the lovely E21 Reccaro seats from Aardvark Racing, last night. Now I have somewhere to sit while bleeding the brakes. Exterior Trim - Cleaned and installed the lower (knee) trim. I used Meguir’s plastic cleaner followed by the polish. They came out pretty good. - Installed the door window finishers. - 1 of the clips was aftermarket and didn’t really hold the trim, so being an impatient SOB, I rigged up a new clip with some scrap aluminum, a bolt and some steel weld. Exhaust / Wideband - I went to a local muffler shop (Federal Muffler) and had a bung installed for the O2 sensor. I sanded it, and painted it with some VHT exhaust paint. Upon installation, I noticed the fit was tighter than I expected (transmission support bar), so I pulled that off and modified it slightly for more clearance - I did the ASPX O2 sensor calibration and waiting to fire it up and see what’s what. Trunk The trunk and the hood were still at the paint shop, unfortunately the hood won’t fit in my XC60 but the trunk lid did. Popped the trunk on, it still needs some alignment but at least it’s out of the way. Up next… Take 2, at bleeding brakes, 1 of the fittings is leaking, seems like it’s not seating properly , nothings ever easy with this piece of junk. Timing & Carb adjustment. I ordered a Innova advanced timing light but before trying that out, I want to rig up a bracket for a throttle return spring. Building a new center console. To accommodate the new gauges & switches. and some other stuff I can't think of right now.
  4. Hi all, A search didn't come up with anything so... Just discovered the door seal rubbers for the Baur/targa variant is only available for the RH door (and it aint cheap). I'm getting my car restored by a UK restorer who knows his 02's but hasn't that much experience with the rare UK targa. I can get a RH seal from W&N but what to do for the other side?? Dont suppose there is anyway to make a standard saloon seal fit the Targa? I appreciate the targa door opening is a slightly different shape, but just wondering if anyone on this forum has any experience? Any info much appreciated! cheers Franc
  5. I did the FAQ search and could not locate a good reference. I have also looked at the 1973 BMW fuel delivery parts diagrams below without success: https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/cars/Classic-BMW/1973/2002-Sedan-Manual/Fuel-System/2002-Sedan-Manual-parts.html Can anyone tell me whether there is a seal or a gasket between the gas tank and the car chassis? If so, what are you using or recommend? Thank you.
  6. I installed new door seals and I need to adjust the doors as they are now standing proud. I tried moving the striker latch but that didn't help. Ideas? Cheers Tim in Capitola
  7. I am in the process of replacing the seals on my rockers, which were completely missing when I purchased the car. Can someone provide a picture of the transitions from the thin seal to the thick one both by the front and back door pillar. I am unsure if they are trimmed to overlap one another, or where one is supposed to end and the other pickup. P.S the PO put a left hand rocker on the right hand side, which I will have to remedy via Rogers Tii. I didn't clue into this until I looked down and found the cutout for the bottom of the door pillar about mid sill. Thanks in advance.
  8. These are currently back ordered from BMW per Blunt. Looking for something usable until they're available. I'm looking for both short flaps that go on either end of the hood latch rod, and the long seal that runs across the hood to seal the heater box from the engine compartment.
  9. This is the stuff to get if you want to keep all your rubber seals nice and soft, and prevent from getting brittle and not sealing properly. I've been using this since my e30 days and it works well. Thought I'd share 20150427_100711 by bluebelt00, on Flickr
  10. Need help... Did some searching wasn't able to find my answers. I (apparently) have a 5-speed Getrag 240 from an E21 320is I'm not quite sure where my transmission is leaking from I originally thought the gear selector rod seal, but it's a hot mess back and think the leak is a little too much for the selector seal. I think it looks like it's leaking where the transmission connects to the guibo/driveshaft (I would assume this would be called the Transmission Rear Seal). I figure I might as well change all the seals back there. - Standard Transmission Shift Linkage Seal BavAuto Part # 23 12 1 228 443 - Transmission Rear Seal - 40mm X 55mm X 8mm BavAuto Part # 23 12 1 205 340 Are there any other seals back there that could be causing the leaks? Any tricks to removing the diff where it connects to guibo and transmission? Seamed like a biche last night and I didn't have the energy to continue. Any other advice/wisdom you guys can part on to me? Photos of the hot mess:
  11. Bought new door seals from Pelican auto at a substantial savings compared to BMW. Now seems the doors, especially at the wing window frames, need to be forced closed. I no longer have the original seals, but wonder if the BMW seal is softer, if there is any difference, or just need to be "broken in"?
  12. Hi Guys, Feels like it's been a long time since I'm posted a thread in the general section... I been working away at fixing up the derelict body, I’m nearing a point where I can hand the body over to a paint shop for them to do the rest. Now for the reason I’m posting. In Summer 2014, I noticed the motor leaked in a few spots... fast forward to my refresh with the motor out I figured I might as well redo the seals (including head gasket). I had purchased the upper and lower seal kit (from Blunt) a while back, thinking things would go much quicker than they have. I’m going to start to dismantle the motor to change out the seals. I’ve never done anything like this before but I do have a friend whose worked on giant compressor motors. I have the Haynes book, which I plan on referring throughout but I was wondering if anyone on here could give me tips/pointers. Like... - make sure to do this - don’t do that - start by - etc I did some loose searching on the forum but will do some more when the time permits. Thanks!
  13. Hi everyone, I haven't posted in ages. I have a 1976 BMW 2002 base model with a 4spd. I need to replace the seals on the front and rear windows along with the metal that sits in the center of the seal. Could someone point me in the right direction as to the best place to buy it from? I'd like to avoid getting some cheap crap. Thanks in advance. I did try to search but couldn't find anything definitive. Pic for attention.
  14. I just bought an upper "gasket" kit and was surprised to see a set of valve stem seals. However, after some FAQ research, it appears the kit comes with the old style. I had ordered new guides and seals from Ireland, so will use those. But since I had the comparison pix handy I thought I would post them for people's future reference. Also, some old post info included below... Randy The style of valve seals is dependent upon the valve guide that is in the head. BMW changed the guide and seal mid way through the 02's run. If you install new valve guides in your head, you'll need the new style seals. If you re-use your old guides, you'll need to measure the top OD of the guide. The "old " style seals measure about 14mm ID and are part number, 11 34 1 256 556. The new style measure about 11mm and are part number 11 34 9 059 169. If you buy a head gasket set, it will come with the seal that your car originally had, you'll have to buy the new style seals separately. Hope this helps. Quote Promote to Article TobyB Advanced Member Members 1,376 15,297 posts Carnation, WA Posted August 15, 2006 · Report post I've found that most sets come with the old style seals- I've got tons of 'em, and most of the guides are now new style!
  15. Hello I need advice please - my 1975 2002 auto front brake ATE 140P?? calliper seals are all split, four on each calliper what size seals do I need, diameter? Thanks
  16. I recently purchased a 1976 2002 that has spent most of it's life in Southern California. Although this has resulted in a very clean body, nearly all of the gaskets and trim around the windows and windshield are cracked and dry rotted… Any ideas as to how to replace this? Not sure where to start.... thanks!
  17. I know there are several posts out there on "how-tos" or "why-should's" in reagards to timing chain replacement. Mine is making a pretty bad racket, like I can hear it from the driver's seat at idle. So I know it needs replacing, but what else should I replace while I am in there? The list I can think of is: Timing chain 2 sprokets guide rail tensioner spring tensioner plunger gasket on the front timing cover Are there any gaskets or seals I am missing? Any clips, bolts or small parts I am not aware of? I always like to have every part I need for starting a project. Thanks in advance!
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