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Found 18 results

  1. Simeon

    Rubber Fetish

    When I took the glass out for paint, I knew I would not be reusing the front and rear windscreen seals. The old ones were throughly perished and the filler strip hard hardened into a brittle state. After reading the many reviews of Uro seals Vs BMW windscreen seals, I elected to go with BMW even though I went Uro with the door seals. My reasoning, apart from saving money was that the door is capable of adjustment but the windscreen is not. I started with the rear screen first and tried to follow the Blue Book method of installing the filler strip into the rubber before pulling it into the
  2. Day ~63 – 68 I’m trying to get a whole bunch of things done so that I can drive this car before winter comes and as you may know, it comes pretty quick around here. Weather Stripping/Seals - Driver/Passenger Doors Seals (Uro) I had read some negative reviews about the Uro door seals but I also read that some weren’t happy with the OEM version. Given the big price difference, I cheaped out and went with the Uro door seals. Installing the door seals, is a slight bitch. Jamming it in to the aluminum bracket channel isn’t fun and then removing it to add weather stripping adh
  3. Tesoro has some major bling going on! We got the custom bumpers and all new trim aligned and ready for show ! Just to reiterate how much time, measurement, and skill that went into this paint job and body work that has been done, it's like a mirror! .... Narcissus would have drowned in this paint job... ?
  4. Purists probably won't like my solution to leaky door seals but this is what I came up with this morning I've added a few inches of extra foam toward the trailing edge of the door seal where I feel cold air entering the cabin. Not going to win any beauty contests but it has helped to seal up my doors at bit. Today I drove 170 miles down the interstate during heavy rain and wind and it was an improvement. I did have one interesting moment when all 4 tires hydroplaned and floated off the pavement at around 60mph during a slight turn in Everett. Thankfully, it resolved itself under control as I let off on the gas and brakes and I got grip back. Good to be home and safe and sound however.
  5. Need help... Did some searching wasn't able to find my answers. I (apparently) have a 5-speed Getrag 240 from an E21 320is I'm not quite sure where my transmission is leaking from I originally thought the gear selector rod seal, but it's a hot mess back and think the leak is a little too much for the selector seal. I think it looks like it's leaking where the transmission connects to the guibo/driveshaft (I would assume this would be called the Transmission Rear Seal). I figure I might as well change all the seals back there. - Standard Transmission Shift Linkage Seal BavAuto Part # 23 12 1 228 443 - Transmission Rear Seal - 40mm X 55mm X 8mm BavAuto Part # 23 12 1 205 340 Are there any other seals back there that could be causing the leaks? Any tricks to removing the diff where it connects to guibo and transmission? Seamed like a biche last night and I didn't have the energy to continue. Any other advice/wisdom you guys can part on to me? Photos of the hot mess:
  6. Bought new door seals from Pelican auto at a substantial savings compared to BMW. Now seems the doors, especially at the wing window frames, need to be forced closed. I no longer have the original seals, but wonder if the BMW seal is softer, if there is any difference, or just need to be "broken in"?
  7. This is the stuff to get if you want to keep all your rubber seals nice and soft, and prevent from getting brittle and not sealing properly. I've been using this since my e30 days and it works well. Thought I'd share 20150427_100711 by bluebelt00, on Flickr
  8. Hi Guys, Feels like it's been a long time since I'm posted a thread in the general section... I been working away at fixing up the derelict body, I’m nearing a point where I can hand the body over to a paint shop for them to do the rest. Now for the reason I’m posting. In Summer 2014, I noticed the motor leaked in a few spots... fast forward to my refresh with the motor out I figured I might as well redo the seals (including head gasket). I had purchased the upper and lower seal kit (from Blunt) a while back, thinking things would go much quicker than they have. I’m going to start to dismantle the motor to change out the seals. I’ve never done anything like this before but I do have a friend whose worked on giant compressor motors. I have the Haynes book, which I plan on referring throughout but I was wondering if anyone on here could give me tips/pointers. Like... - make sure to do this - don’t do that - start by - etc I did some loose searching on the forum but will do some more when the time permits. Thanks!
  9. These are currently back ordered from BMW per Blunt. Looking for something usable until they're available. I'm looking for both short flaps that go on either end of the hood latch rod, and the long seal that runs across the hood to seal the heater box from the engine compartment.
  10. Hi everyone, I haven't posted in ages. I have a 1976 BMW 2002 base model with a 4spd. I need to replace the seals on the front and rear windows along with the metal that sits in the center of the seal. Could someone point me in the right direction as to the best place to buy it from? I'd like to avoid getting some cheap crap. Thanks in advance. I did try to search but couldn't find anything definitive. Pic for attention.
  11. I just bought an upper "gasket" kit and was surprised to see a set of valve stem seals. However, after some FAQ research, it appears the kit comes with the old style. I had ordered new guides and seals from Ireland, so will use those. But since I had the comparison pix handy I thought I would post them for people's future reference. Also, some old post info included below... Randy The style of valve seals is dependent upon the valve guide that is in the head. BMW changed the guide and seal mid way through the 02's run. If you install new valve guides in your head, you'll need the new style seals. If you re-use your old guides, you'll need to measure the top OD of the guide. The "old " style seals measure about 14mm ID and are part number, 11 34 1 256 556. The new style measure about 11mm and are part number 11 34 9 059 169. If you buy a head gasket set, it will come with the seal that your car originally had, you'll have to buy the new style seals separately. Hope this helps. Quote Promote to Article TobyB Advanced Member Members 1,376 15,297 posts Carnation, WA Posted August 15, 2006 · Report post I've found that most sets come with the old style seals- I've got tons of 'em, and most of the guides are now new style!
  12. Hello I need advice please - my 1975 2002 auto front brake ATE 140P?? calliper seals are all split, four on each calliper what size seals do I need, diameter? Thanks
  13. I recently purchased a 1976 2002 that has spent most of it's life in Southern California. Although this has resulted in a very clean body, nearly all of the gaskets and trim around the windows and windshield are cracked and dry rotted… Any ideas as to how to replace this? Not sure where to start.... thanks!
  14. I installed new door seals and I need to adjust the doors as they are now standing proud. I tried moving the striker latch but that didn't help. Ideas? Cheers Tim in Capitola
  15. I did the FAQ search and could not locate a good reference. I have also looked at the 1973 BMW fuel delivery parts diagrams below without success: https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/cars/Classic-BMW/1973/2002-Sedan-Manual/Fuel-System/2002-Sedan-Manual-parts.html Can anyone tell me whether there is a seal or a gasket between the gas tank and the car chassis? If so, what are you using or recommend? Thank you.
  16. I am in the process of replacing the seals on my rockers, which were completely missing when I purchased the car. Can someone provide a picture of the transitions from the thin seal to the thick one both by the front and back door pillar. I am unsure if they are trimmed to overlap one another, or where one is supposed to end and the other pickup. P.S the PO put a left hand rocker on the right hand side, which I will have to remedy via Rogers Tii. I didn't clue into this until I looked down and found the cutout for the bottom of the door pillar about mid sill. Thanks in advance.
  17. Hi all, A search didn't come up with anything so... Just discovered the door seal rubbers for the Baur/targa variant is only available for the RH door (and it aint cheap). I'm getting my car restored by a UK restorer who knows his 02's but hasn't that much experience with the rare UK targa. I can get a RH seal from W&N but what to do for the other side?? Dont suppose there is anyway to make a standard saloon seal fit the Targa? I appreciate the targa door opening is a slightly different shape, but just wondering if anyone on this forum has any experience? Any info much appreciated! cheers Franc
  18. I know there are several posts out there on "how-tos" or "why-should's" in reagards to timing chain replacement. Mine is making a pretty bad racket, like I can hear it from the driver's seat at idle. So I know it needs replacing, but what else should I replace while I am in there? The list I can think of is: Timing chain 2 sprokets guide rail tensioner spring tensioner plunger gasket on the front timing cover Are there any gaskets or seals I am missing? Any clips, bolts or small parts I am not aware of? I always like to have every part I need for starting a project. Thanks in advance!
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