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About Mitch_M

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  • Gender Male
  • Location California

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  1. Mitch_M

    Hella Trunk Fuel Vapor Tank

  2. Mitch_M

    Rear Axle Stubs

  3. Mitch_M

    Hella Trunk Fuel Vapor Tank

    Hella trunk vapor tank in good condition. Asking $15 plus shipping.
  4. Mitch_M

    Rear Axle Stubs

    Have a pair of axle stubs for sale. Came off of a 1968 1600. In good condition. Castle nut threads on easily. Asking $150 shipped to lower 48.
  5. Mitch_M

    Bav Auto no more

    +1 on both. FCPeuro offers lifetime guarantee on parts purchased from them ( I get everything for my XC90 from FCP, and split orders between Blunt and FCP for the tii depending on pricing (and availability - Steve carries more for our cars obviously) at the time.
  6. Mitch_M

    Good DIY Projects on a 2002?

    Getting screwed by scammers is an important step, though. It’s all part of the process.
  7. Mitch_M

    Good DIY Projects on a 2002?

    Excellent suggestions, because in 5 years you can teach the following: - Installing a muffler - Installing new springs - Align replacement fenders - Filling screw holes And in case you're wondering, I definitely did NOT cut out my muffler in favor of a cobbled together straight pipe, cut the springs because I wanted the front lower, almost cut my fenders to fit big shiny wheels, or install driving lights by cutting holes in my bumpers (to be fair, though, the PO did it first). Nope. Didn't do any of those things. That was, um, a friend.
  8. Mitch_M

    Lower steering column cover, metal, 32311110912

    PM sent Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Mitch_M

    Heat Shrink vs Plastic Insulator

    Oh I'm well past the point of no return. The harness in my engine bay is completely unwrapped now. I've spent the last two weeks tracing wires back to the source, analyzed wiring diagrams, fixed PO wiring, soldering, heat shrinking, not liking how lumpy the solder looked, cutting wires, re-soldering, re-shrinking, correctly wiring the MSD/Pertronix/Blaster 2 coil/tach adapter (PO job was na abortion), etc. I'm to the point where I'm trying to strategically solder where required so that I don't have heat shrink showing on a harness that will be re-wrapped with Tesa tape. Period correctly of course, with spaced tape so I can see the wire color underneath. That is a fantastic idea with the clear shrink. I guess I'll be doing that too.
  10. Ah I see. Makes sense. I’ve read about it, read the coil myths article, too. It’s just a harder concept for me to understand for some reason. Like I said in a previous post, I’m a visual guy (why I asked for photos), and you can’t really “see” current running through wires. Thanks for clarifying!
  11. Tom, that’s how mine has looked since I got the car, and it’s driven me crazy, too. I’m cleaning everything up while the motor is out. This whole project started as a simple head rebuild and piston re-ring, and here I am now repainting my engine bay and bleeding from the eyes while I read wiring diagrams. It better look good when I’m done.
  12. Yes that helps a lot! So if I’m reading correctly (your post and wiring diagrams), One of the solid green originally went to the ballast resistor (this one is cut on my car), and the other traces back to the fuse box to receive power from the ignition. That power flows through the green line, through the relay, and then to the red/green wire, which takes current to your aux fuse box that you set up, and powers the coil during startup. Is that correct? Wiring is hard for me to grasp since I can’t physically see current flowing. I much prefer tightening bolts to splicing wires lol.
  13. So where do the green and black wires lead to? How did you wire up the relay above/behind the coil on the firewall? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk