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FunkyLaneO

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Everything posted by FunkyLaneO

  1. FunkyLaneO
    Get out your multimeter and test the switch, it's probably not the problem but it is possible. The override should be a parallel circuit to the sensor so the simplest way to wire it is to run both wires from the switch to the same two wires that go to the sensor. if you turn you switch off and touch the two wires that go to the sensor together, does the fan start spinning? if not then you have something wired incorrectly, if you turn the switch on and do the same does is start to spin? if so then your override switch is also acting as a kill switch and has to be rethought. Draw out your wiring diagram for this circuit and post it here and we can take a look at it and give you specific tests to run in order to narrow down your problem.
  2. FunkyLaneO
    just push the clutch in every time you decelerate, problem solved!
  3. FunkyLaneO
    The 74 has a vacuum retard distributer so I wouldn't even run a vacuum line to it, it runs better without it. Since you have a Weber carb you can remove the fuel return valve and cap everything off, I don't have any vacuum lines left on my engine since I desmogged it.
  4. FunkyLaneO
    I believe they all did that up until they moved the turn indicator to the left side in 1974.
  5. FunkyLaneO
    Your car was produced four days after I was!
  6. FunkyLaneO
    Parts wanted section, I am sure somebody has one to sell.
  7. FunkyLaneO
    Are you installing it with the phenolic spacer? or did you not have one with the old pump? If you didn't have one, you probably need one now and make sure you get the matching push rod as it will need to be longer. edit - nevermind, you can't run that pump without a spacer but I do recall there being different size spacers, you may need a different one. hopefully someone who knows will chime in.
  8. FunkyLaneO
    Like CJ said, cancel your turn signal.
  9. FunkyLaneO
    Make sure your flexible brake lines aren't too old, they swell up over time and can restrict flow of brake fluid. If you haven't replaced them with new SS lines you probably should.
  10. FunkyLaneO
    I see them crawling up on the beach when I am on my bike rides down the strand, they get dropped out of helicopters about 3 miles out and swim in. I wish it would just loosen up but 2 back surgeries later and my back still complains, bad backs seem to be the curse of the tall person.
  11. FunkyLaneO
    I always take the kidney grill off when I do the water pump, with a couple extensions stacked up you can access all the bolts from outside the car or reaching underneath (while sitting down, so much easier on my back).
  12. FunkyLaneO
    +1 what Toby said, get out the hacksaw and save that part, the rest can be placed in CD's neighbors pool.
  13. FunkyLaneO
    Reinforce the drivers side engine mount if it hasn't already been done (do a search, lots of info), check all of your suspension bushings and replace those that are worn (easier with engine out).
  14. FunkyLaneO
    Tear the "sponge thingy" off and throw it away, you can replace it with a new one if you like or leave it off but yours is saturated with brake fluid and will rust your pedal box and will drip fluid that will end up on a painted surface (brake fluid eats paint, not good) then fix your master cylinder (set some time aside for this one, it isn't that difficult but can be tedious)
  15. FunkyLaneO
    Loosen the alternator belt and grab the fan blade and give it a wiggle, if it wobbles at all your pump is likely kaput. This is a good time to flush your cooling system, it is easier to replace the pump if you remove the radiator and the kidney grill, while the radiator is out you can flush it out with the garden hose and make sure you pull the drain plug under your exhaust manifold and let the sludge drain out. Check all of your hoses while you are at it and order any you need when you order the pump (sucks discovering a hose is on it's last leg when you are trying to put everything back together) this is also an opportunity to replace any crappy hose clamps that PO's have installed with the good german ones.
  16. FunkyLaneO
    And if it turns out that the reason your old one fell out is because the threads are stripped, they can be repaired with a Time Sert but there are special steps that must be taken since they don't make a Time Sert short enough, I had to do it once and the tranny has to be out of the car to do it. If that is the case let me know and I will write something up explaining the steps that need to be taken.
  17. FunkyLaneO
    That is not a standard bolt, it is a special shape on the end to hold the speedo cable in place. I believe they are the same on the 4 and 5 speeds so finding a used one should not be too hard, maybe a helpful soul has one on one of their old 4 speeds? I believe thi is the part you need (part # 14): CLAMPING BOLT M6X15 1 07119911218 $0.38 http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2213&mospid=47140&btnr=23_0767&hg=23&fg=15 and don't tighten that bolt too much, it threads into aluminum and the threads are shallow, it will strip easily.
  18. FunkyLaneO
    There is a special screw that holds it in, looks like it is missing or backed most of the way out. It is the one without a number in your diagram. go find the diagram that has the description and you will be able to get another one. edit: I re-read it, if you loosened it to remove the speedo cable then yes that assembly just pulls out, the o-ring holds it in but if it has never been replaced then it may be a loose fit. Always replace the screw after you remove the speedo cable and it will not fall out and get lost, those parts are kinda pricey.
  19. FunkyLaneO
    Actually the diagnostic tool is a sophisticated digital device, the old analog Tach could behave very differently.
  20. FunkyLaneO
    Exactly what Toby said, it is pretty easy to hook up a tach under the hood with alligator clips to test it before you tear apart your console only to find out that the tach itself isn't the problem. There is a power, ground, and signal, they are clearly marked on the back of the tach. The signal wire goes to the negative post on the coil, the power can be obtained from the positive post on the coil and the ground can be from just about anywhere. fire it up and see what it does, if it behaves the same as the one installed in your car then you need to start looking at your ignition components.
  21. FunkyLaneO
    yup, the one that plugs under the intake manifold is a temp sensor used by the emissions equipment, mine is still there but only to plug the hole, nothing plugged into it. There should be one on the top of the manifold too (between cylinders 3 and 4), you can remove that one because the hole it leaves doesn't need to be plugged (it either measures the temp of the air under the manifold or the temp of the manifold itself, not sure but it isn't necessary so chuck it in CD's neighbors pool)
  22. FunkyLaneO
    Put together a budget and figure out what each aspect is going to cost and do what you can afford to do right now. It all has to get done before you can drive it anyway so the order you do it in doesn't make much difference. Personally I would get all the electrical and mechanical work out of the way first and finish with the interior so it stays clean and isn't in the way of what you are working on.
  23. FunkyLaneO
    like Buckeye said, check all of your connections, especially grounds. If that doesn't remedy the situation then get out your test light ans start tracing all your connections. Some things it could be: Bad starter bad ignition switch bad ground bad battery cable loose connection in a few different places if you have ever had an alarm installed with a starter kill, that goes through a relay, could be a bad relay or connection there. get out your wiring diagram and trace out the circuit, test at every wire junction and see if you can narrow down where the fault lies. (it is a pretty simple circuit so should be really easy to test) edit- sorry I started this reply earlier, got sidetracked, and never hit send so it may seem out of sequence.
  24. FunkyLaneO
    If the wire is no good then you can get a resistor from an earlier car, they have the same resistance. See if anybody has a used one they will sell you cheap, as I recall new ones are kind of expensive (like way more expensive than they should be, it is just a resistor for goodness sake) I don't believe you can get a new resistor wire from BMW. The other wire from the smog loom goes to the emissions wiring and possibly to an electric choke (if one has been added) or an idle shutoff solenoid (again, if one has been added) so you should be able to just unplug it and not worry, or you can run a wire from there to your choke and/or idle solenoid.
  25. FunkyLaneO
    That is the vent, the cap is supposed to do that (not come completely out but be loose). be careful if you move the transmission around as fluid will leak out of there.
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