Jump to content

FunkyLaneO

Kugelfischer
  • Posts

    962
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by FunkyLaneO

  1. Yup, not exactly a crush washer but a seal for the drain and fill. I seem to recall they were flat aluminum.
  2. Drop it, pressure wash it, replace both seals and both o-rings (they are cheap) and do not lose track of where the shims go. Gasket and crush washers too, if the input isn't leaking don't touch it. Pop it back in and Bob's yer uncle!
  3. Yup, seen this too, especially when they use the shift platform from an E21. Last one I saw was just a bolt through a shock absorber bushing. Similar to how the Ireland platform mounts at the back.
  4. Yup, I get all my Time-Serts from them.
  5. Yes, the MTL is quite thin but it does shift like butter. The only drawback with the MTL is if your transmission has the potential to leak it definitely will with MTL in it. I don't think it causes transmissions to leak but I think MTL just leaks out easier. I run it in my 5 speed and ran it in my 4 speeds too and never had that problem but many people seem to.
  6. That is the charcoal canister, it vents gas fumes to the air cleaner after they have been scrubbed. That air cleaner does not have an attachment for it and a vacuum port is not the proper way to connect it.
  7. Looks alot like the one Josh Withers (josh72ooh2) built but just a little different, looks like somebody was inspired by his creation.
  8. That is the number I use and it normally works. They never reply to emails so you do need to call. I would just keep trying until they get their phone fixed.
  9. Keep the fuel return valve, ditch the vacuum solenoids. Attach a vacuum line from the base of the carb to the fuel return valve, or tee off the one going to the distributor if you have one.
  10. Apparently you aren't familiar with PatAllen, I am surprised it isn't a more elaborate system with multiple add-on's designed and built in his secret lab. Haha. Pat is next-level hardcore.
  11. If at very low RPM only and worse when cold, probably the fuel pump. They do that sometimes, usually not a problem unless they leak or stop working. My car does it if it has been sitting a couple weeks and only if I kick down the choke too soon and the RPM drops below about 900.
  12. I'm with Toby on this one, sounds exactly like a clutch problem.
  13. I've got a set in really good condition for a '74 with nearly unused Michelin tires but they are the later style with the beauty rings and center caps. If you are interested let me know, I am in San Diego but travel to LA on occasion.
  14. Driveshaft appears to have a 4 bolt flange, if so it won't work with that transmission.
  15. Yeah, that is a bit too far for me, I am quite a ways north of there. Is it at a junkyard? that area is mostly junkyards and used tire places. Be very careful of anything you buy from that area, it could very well be a vehicle assembled from random parts from the salvage yards which could be a nightmare to register/title.
  16. Where in San Diego? When do you need it done? seems these days my schedule is always packed with stuff to do (having a teenage kid does that) so not sure if I can but let me know and if the stars align I could take a look at it. If it gets to the point you need a shop level inspection use La Jolla Independent BMW Service.
  17. +1 This. Actually quite common for those to fail, IMO points are actually more reliable. I went with the Crane optical ignition about 10 years ago and it has been running like a champ ever since.
  18. Yeah, I made a video for somebody a while back, here it is: It fixes your speedo if it jumps or pegs when you are just driving along, I did not go into fixing the odometer, it is a little more involved but doable.
  19. Sometimes the nuts seize up and the studs tear out, in which case you would need an appropriate machine screw to fit the new hole in the plastic backing of the grill (ask me how I know).
  20. Not really possible to have the flywheel 180 out unless the locating sleeve is missing (unlikely but possible I guess), though the crankshaft passes TDC twice for every cycle, you were probably at the top of the exhaust cycle as opposed to the intake cycle, common mistake.
  21. One piece of advice, do not over tighten those m6 bolts. It seems a popular thing to do, I always have a few M6 time serts on hand to fix stripped timing cover threads or to replace previous heli coil fixes (which suck for this application). If in doubt use a torque wrench.
  22. If it truly was 40k miles then it would be most likely valve seals, if 140k then either rings or valve seals, if it smokes or smells more on hard decelerrations then it is most likely valve seals, if it smokes or smells most on accelerations or when you first fire it up then likely rings. Unfortunately both are not trivial fixes, to replace the valve seals you need to remove the head and replace the head gasket and freshen anything that needs freshening (valve springs, resurface head, etc...). To replace the rings you need to do a complete teardown of the engine so that is a complete rebuild. If you can tolerate the smell and can keep an eye on your oil level you can drive it like this for a long time before you need to address the issue, alot of people do that with these cars and they don't seem to mind. If it is the valve seals it helps to push in the clutch when you decelerate (less vacuum, less oil sucked in around the seals) and you will burn less oil. Since you have a '76 in California and need to get it smogged if there is smoke the tester may fail you based on the visual but burning oil in my experience doesn't usually trigger a failed test unless it is really bad.
×
×
  • Create New...