markmac

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About markmac

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  • Gender Male
  • Location SF Bay Area

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  1. markmac

    Wet Sanding Rattle Can Paint?

    Some of the paint sold now is 'self-priming' (allegedly). Since you have some exposed metal I would probably prime it, use sandable primer if you can so that if anything happens you can sand it out. SEM has a self etching primer for bare metal not sure though that material is sandable (don't recall now). I have a local FinishMaster that supply local auto paint and supplies, great resource, always asking them questions and they are always happy to help (read they hate me and hope I go away.....not really) I am sure there is something similar to where you are. Looks like you have enough texture on there for the paint to adhere to, primer I think helps, maybe overkill for this piece but what the heck - do it right I say.
  2. markmac

    Wet Sanding Rattle Can Paint?

    I have been in the 're-finish' mode for a while now with my car so I feel your pain. Recently painted struts, shocks, trailing arms, rear axle.....etc., Not all satin blacks are the same - some more shiny or matte than others....and pretty much all of them won't have the same gloss a month after the part is painted (happily in my experience). As stated, prep, prep, prep....making sure that the paint/primer has a surface it can bit into (usually 400-600 grit wet/dry or 3M scuff pads, cleaned and prepped with whatever the manufacturer recommends - I use Acryla-Clean SX330 (PPG) making sure that the paint/primer has a surface it can bite into and then a tack cloth just before I paint. The SEM satin trim paint works well, I also like VHT roll bar & chassis paint. Used that on my trailing arms, axle and struts and after a couple of months the sheen has really settled to a color I like. Have also used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator (matte black) on a number of projects. Really like this stuff too. You can get it in pints or rattle can. Whether its rattle can or HVLP spray gun, wind, sun, humidity can really eff up your paint job. Last thing with rattle cans - sounds stupid but I always test them out on something other than my project (first) really to get a feel as to how the paint comes out (pattern) and how it goes on. Learned the hard way by effing up more than one project and in those cases I really just ended up taking off what I put on and started from scratch. Good luck with your project.
  3. Steve, great video as always. Assuming the damage to your car by the yellow o2 was minimal (scrape)? Just curious how SOVREN views that kind of thing, which seemed to me to be completely avoidable (or am I completely wrong??? "sh*t" does happen out there....). Even in the last race I noticed when the yellow car was trying to overtake you from out of camera flying by behind to the opposite side (thought she might crash you again right there Ricky-Bobby nascar style). Not sure what the spec of your motor is, 45 or 48's and a big cam....the yellow car looked like it had a little more juice. Interested to hear your perspective given the great amount of seat time you have with many different cars, run groups and tracks.
  4. markmac

    Help Identifying a Transmission

    Talked to a couple of folks about these since this last post, the consensus is that they are pretty slick, durable and parts are available when they break. Have seen a couple of pics with a/the bell housing attached, not seeing any sort of slave cylinder as you would with the 235/5. How does that work?
  5. Looking for an OE raised letter trunk roundel. Would prefer something in VG condition, I'll look at whatever you have. Tx
  6. markmac

    ' Retro Engineering '

    This makes total sense based on my recent one way emailing....that is to send multiple emails with no response. Embarrassed to say it, send six of em. The only way I would be able to deal with them now would be for someone to literally go to their shop and pay/pick-up/leave with parts. The CR retrofit straight cut gears look like a great solution (not inexpensive) for these transmissions, but then if the vendor is sketchy not much point.
  7. markmac

    Classic Super Clean at BMW CCA O'Fest

    Nice work.
  8. Thank you for unsubscribing because I am all back in now. Seriously? As previously stated sooooooooooooooooooo mannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnny times, to cue up an thread on a forum and say 'leaving the company' 'ask me what you want' and i will deliver the dirt....what do you think this is about? If the guy/gal or whatever he/she/it had to say was positive, they would have offered it up. Wouldn't have gone something like this....worked at 2002 ad for many years, great benefits/pay, they respected my work, provided a great/positive work atmosphere, did high quality work on customers cars and always treated customers honestly....yada, yada, yada. Indignatio?. Shit, give me break. How about this. Person that started this thread go ahead. Throw the dirt down, + /- whatever you have - you offered it up, put up or shut up (and go away). I am loving this thread now.
  9. In a weak effort to keep pushing down the thread "former 2002 AD employee, ask me anything....", does anyone (obviously my UK friends) have any experience with these guys? Looking for a ' former retro engineering employee, ask me anything...'. The supply parts for various transmissions including 235/5 CR boxes and do a straight cut dog gear replacement. It is very expensive - duh. Emailed once, got a reply with 'will give you a quote for the parts..." never received, emailed at least 6x since (or 5x too many). Puts the red = sketchy light on for me. Just wondering. Not looking to out anyone or anything else so you need not reply, just need to know if its worth my dime (er, I mean 5 bucks to call them) or make it 7x email. Thinking now way too much work, their CS is sh*t as far as dealing with customers just based on my recent experience. Exhausting all options to get a work gear box so willing to suck it up...and there are limited options in this area. Tx http://www.retro-engineering.co.uk/id35.html
  10. Now that is funny....not sayin I said it (but I did somewhere around page 1.5 I think.... and surer than hell after that I have myself chipped in another three, clearly no discipline). Right now I am thinking this lousy post has the potential to surpass Jim G's '2002ti Wannabe Project begins..." in views, pages and posts....of course it doesn't have 1/100000 the content.
  11. markmac

    Paint Color (Help)

    Yep, I think the RAL 3020 is it, or close to it. I am going to use the door color to make the paint off of, its the lightest bit of them all and smallest (and doesn't have any of the glass or what not in it). Honestly I wouldn't be lucky enough to have straight up RAL 3020 work, not on this project. Nuttin easy.
  12. markmac

    Paint Color (Help)

    All great input, thank you. Seems like best is to take a door with the color on it and have it matched. At this point I am in wayyyyy toooooo deeeeep to half ass it. The car has to be 'right' at least once if only for 10 minutes. I do like the stone chip look I will say on seasoned cars (hoping to get to that point someday).....there is a guy that races a 427 Cobra here (seen him at infinity and laguna) races with his family I think - they all have Cobra's - his is a real/real metallic blue 427 I think the others might be continuations...wears an old 'Sargent Carter' marine corp hat around - stone/rock hips all over that thing front nose and rear wheel arches. Its awesome. Seen the guy running that car for the better part of 15 years - never painted.
  13. markmac

    Paint Color (Help)

    Just learned a bunch of new stuff from you, much appreciated. SF Bay Area (Peninsula). We have a local Finishmaster store that I have purchased a whole s-load of materials from over the years....I could have a word with them and see what they have to say. Thanks for the note back, much appreciated.
  14. I need to figure out how to match the red stripe on my race car - I am color sanding the car now and am going to need to do some touch up unfortunately. The stripe is (or some approximation thereof) the color of the German Flag "red" which though the interwebs I have found described as "Traffic Red". The Pantone colors are available on line - I know zero about paint (less than zero). Pantone colors from what I have read (I think) are really ink colors for printing on paper, no idea if you can give the paint shop the Pantone colors and then somehow mix into paint? Feels like a stupid question but honestly I really have no idea. The red is a really bright red with some orange in it (appears to me anyway), I don't need a lot of it just enough for some touch up. Hard to tell from an image but this is what it looks like (if i could get the paint mix from the painter I would, not happening).
  15. About forty posts ago my suggestion (not that anyone should pay any attention to anything I would suggest.....I only have met and know about two people on this forum soooo.....) was to let it go and move on....one of the biggest waste of time posts I can recall recently (so with that I'll keep it short) and really zero interest (at least to me). What ever has happened there at 2002 AD has happened or happens, no changing it now. Everyone has a choice as to the vendors they work with. Choose wisely. Sorry to say I will not be issuing an "apology" (Esty). Oh ya, and I am not hanging my head. Get serious.