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markmac

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About markmac

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  1. I posted up a couple of photos of the work that was done on my steering, there was over 200 hours of labor putting humpty back together again. I really had no idea what was involved, The steering rack itself need to be shortened 2.5" - every part thereafter was fabricated. The bump steer they told me was the worst they had ever seen and would have been sketchy to drive (read, down right dangerous). These are some photos of the work. The guts of the rack are out of an e-21 Motorsport rack which has about 2.8 turns lock/lock.
  2. All the cars in this post look REALLY good, at least from the images....and I am sure that they are in person as well. I started wet sanding the paint on my car, unfortunately the car was painted (white) then clear coated...after that the stripes were put on it (and not clear coated), orange peel city. I have done the trunk lid and part of one of the rear quarters. It is time consuming as hell - in the end I think the best case situation is that I will need to re-shoot the entire car with clear - then do it all over again. Worst case is the car will need to be re-painted. Bummer.
  3. That there is the rare of the rare. High options for back in the day AND apparently in immaculate condition. Nice.
  4. markmac

    1676010

    I'll say, very, very rare to find one still together with the alpine factory documentation.
  5. No heat required.....I have read before that it was painfully hot inside - I am sure all these cars were the same (hot, hot, hot inside), not surprising given the speed they were driven, and lengths (4, 6 and 12 hour races) and the raised floors and large diameter exhaust pipe in near proximity to the driver. These hoses came from Summit Racing, Had to buy two to get the ends I needed with the right angle(s) and then cut 'em up. Went to Pontiac or some other. 30mm ID
  6. There aren't may parts numbers (or parts) that work on my car, other than the oddball fastener....though I have found a few. No, I am finishing some simple stuff (or seemingly simple but not necessarily) - cooling system, radiator and hoses. I was hoping to find a factory hose that would go from my water pipe to the upper radiator (without a connector), no such luck, I am sure there is something from some car that would work. The hose I was asking about I figured was smaller, but then its been so long since I have seen a standard 2002 really I had forgotten. A singular hose I think is better than spliced (not uncommon to see in race cars), but this will do for now anyway.
  7. Can someone give me the inside diameter of the heater hose?, attaches to fitting on the back of the cylinder head.....looks like this...(do both ends have the same inside diameter?). Thanks
  8. My engine builder told the very few 4cylinder twin cam motors that are 'really' making 300bhp or more (and those include bmw M12/7 and Hart 420R's, all of them have (that he has worked on) titanium valves, conrods + loads of work done on the crank + just about everything else. To get that maximum power they are living above 9000 rpm (and in some case 9500+.......But, the owners of those motors are back into them every 15-20 hours of use to see what the bearings and other things look like. Its 'spensive'. This is one of my dyno sheets. We ended up making a little more than this (was like 269.8bhp), not much more out of this motor. What we say was a decline after 8400rpm. The rev limiter stops the action at 9000 on my car so 8500 is about it + there is no point since it doesn't make more power. Needs more cam (I have a set of full F2 cams but opted not to use) and fuel. The sweet spot is 7500rmp and just about 255bhp, both good numbers I think. Schnitzer 20-4 Final Dyno Run.pdf
  9. I remember that video from some time ago (gettin' after it....). Interesting on the M10's, big numbers out of an M10, has to be a lot of stress on the valve train. I have seen numbers report in the 320 range for non turbo Schnitzer motors, but then they have to be at the very limit and of course driving that way means you are probably back in that motor after not too many hours 20-30 maybe? You definitely need the income to support that. Very expensive. I ended up building mine to try and make it last a little so not crazy compression or cams.
  10. From a SOHC motor? If so that is the most I have ever heard of, seems like most/all the Alpina motors that were running at 2L, with slide throttle and Kugel injection were in the 225-230 range. My twin cam Schnitzer made 269bhp at 8400 on its best day, but is in fairly mild tune under 11 cr....impressive.
  11. The schnitzer 1.4 turbo cars plumbed a fitting into the upper timing cover for more 'breathing', along with the regular vent which is essentially in the same position as a single cam motor. Obviously its a high revving, high hp motor and apparently needs it.
  12. Probably not the same car, I parted out an early Alpina 2002 that came out of Ocean Motors (apparently), it had a 2oo2 'Rallyemotor' in it - the shell was toast, but I took the front suspension and motor. Sold it to a dude in Japan for a pile of dough. Wish I kept it.....like many others. No idea what the vin of the car was though, probably a different car. For all the millennials out there that don't know what it was like without internet, this is after post office (like mail) and BI (before internet) - facsimile.....this motor was #1292 with cylinder head #3044, despite what some think, Alpina did keep some records. Some. Ask nicely and sometimes you get rewarded. Frau Reif, who as I understand now has passed away, was a huge help/advocate.
  13. I'm over it now....moving on. Was up in Sonoma today, one of the things the fabricator noticed was that one of my newly rebuilt struts was compressed. I had seen it happen as well before, but ignored. I ended up pulling both struts out of my newly assembled front steering/suspension, not a huge deal really but more than a regular street car. Honestly I don't think about end value and that, at this point just need to get the car done. Going to focus on the fuel system (tank, pumps, swirl pot, lines etc.,) and the dry sump oil tank, lines, and cooler(s) + a thousand other odds/ends. This particular car has a lot going on - more than I ever realized.
  14. I had a set of these in an o2 once upon a time, they lowered the car (that car) quite a bit as I recall. Toby is right about the front where it seems like you need to be a little lower (or raise the back up more as suggested). If you are really committed you could also I believe convert your front struts to coil over using the MN springs. Just a thought.


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