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  1. I just had 2 of these worked on by Ernie and team at Comp. Super impressed with the approach and communication (one needed some creative custom machining to come back into spec). AK
  2. Do you have oil on the intake side of the turbo? If you dont I would suspect that it could be: Gasket leaks Mixture at WOT Assuming everything else is correct and on the button. AK
  3. Here is one for the group. The rattle in the boost limiting valve was a spacer that was inserted to prevent the valve from actuating. The car wasn't making boost so rather then address the problem a shop decided to do the next best thing!
  4. Hi All, Curious about the turbo studs. I have seen both styles on factory turbos and assumed that the studs with uniform diameter were incorrect and that the reduced diameter ones were the correct ones (this is what you get from BMW when you order 11651260838). The photo top right is from the original turbo brochure. Also anyone have a source for the original style hose clamps with screw (slotted) rather than the updated worm gear style? Thanks Anthony
  5. I am not sure if it is the pigment in the red paint but I have seen multiple turbos and they all seem to have a different shade.
  6. The factory gauge show boost up to the hash mark. The needle is very bouncy,. I am going to rig a proper gauge and see if I can log the boost info, rpm and AFR all together this weekend. AK
  7. Hi group. I have been helping a friend get his turbo sorted after many unsuccessful trips to a local BMW specialist. The car has had so many things done to it, it feels a bit like a big nest of cabling that we are slowly un tangling. Background: The car is part of a collection of that has a few turbos so I have the luxury of being able to drive cars back to back to compare. This particular car didn't seem to be making boost despite having a new Kuglefischer (rebuilt) and Turbo installed (nos). The car runs like a NA car at then at 5500 it sort of hits a wall and slowly climbs through. Because of the "new" turbo we decided to go through a number of key settings and make sure to reset / baseline before going forward. Compression: 140, 140, 142, 140 (4-1) Timing: 25 degrees max Pertronix in distributor and Pertronix Coil Swapped with a known good unit timed the same (no change) Fuel curve: The rebuilt pump was installed and because they didn't know how to setup the pump correctly, they used the verbotten screw to richen the pump up to attain a stable idle (no threads showing). Linkage rods, throttle cam and pump we all set incorrectly and as a result the car was running very rich. AFR was low 8's and high 7's at WOT. 289mm rod was measured at 276 - throttle butterfly was not opening correctly. This has been corrected. Reset this all and now the WOT setting (logged) maxes out at 11.6 and stays in the 11.8-12.5 range. I can share the log. Curiously at the 5500rpm wall there is a pronounced leaning step on the log of about 0.5 AFR. Checked fuel pump pressure with a proper gauge, very stable at 28 psi at WOT as measured at the cold start injector. Boost limiting valve: Thought I found my issue, boost limiting valve on charge pipe was not opening and has a pronounced rattle (not a little rattle but a big rattle). Swapped with a known good unit that I could actuate with my hand and medium pressure. NO CHANGE......hmmmm. This is where I started to really start to think we have a legit boost issue. Maybe I took for granted that this car has a new turbo, I started to look at the manifold for cracks, gaskets etc. Notice that the #1 gasket (head / manifold) is flipped (who does that?). nothing visibly damaged, all clamps in place and tight. So that is where I am at. I am prepping to pull the turbo manifold to correct the gasket and inspect the turbo, housing, manifold etc. Prior to that I was thinking of rigging a way to pressurize the cold side of the turbo to see if there are any major leaks. Thoughts? Anthony
  8. thank you. I have 2 different lengths, one stock and one shortened. AK
  9. Anyone have a set? I have a set that need service but Bilstein is heavily backlogged due to COVID. My preference is either red (220/120) or Yellow (180/90). Thanks Anthony [email protected]
  10. I just wanted to say. This thread makes me very happy. People from around the world collaborating and the OP open to feedback and insight. Thanks to all.
  11. Here are mine (about 20 seasons old) very strong, which I am eager to redesign and improve upon. AK
  12. This is really slick. Thank you for your hard work. Is there not some mis-alignment that happens when the arm goes through the sweep? How do your joints account for this minor misalignment? Also the threaded ends seem small relative to what I would expect to see. Any insight into loads they will encounter? Thanks, AK [email protected]
  13. Did you flip the cut piece and weld or fabricate a new piece and weld? Im in the same boat as you. Want the motor to sit a tad lower too.
  14. Hi All, Sort of looking at phase 2 of my s14 swap. Cleaning up a few odds and sods now that I have a few thousand miles on mine. For those that retain the factory plenum, did you modify (cut / notch / weld) for additional clearance around the booster or just shim the driver side engine mount? I shimmed mine but I am now looking at modifying the box any insight would be helpful. Not looking at a carbon box at this time. TIA AK
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