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FunkyLaneO

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Everything posted by FunkyLaneO

  1. FunkyLaneO
    Last MC I got was made by Ate, I think it was like $150 but that was a few years ago. If your car is not a TII, shop around you can get better prices than those.
  2. FunkyLaneO
    look at all four wheels and see if it looks wet, check the reservoir to see if it is losing fluid, if neither of those is the issue then I would be looking at the master cylinder, if it is leaking internally then you could get these symptoms. It could be air in the system but that usually is not intermittent like what you are experiencing. What I would do (if there are no visible fluid leaks) is bleed the brakes really well and look at the flexible lines while you are there, once you are sure there is no air in the system and your flexible lines aren't bulging, test the brakes and see if they work, you can do a preliminary test without driving by starting the car and holding the brake down very hard, hold it for a minute or two and see if the brake slowly goes to the floor, if it does then you most likely have an issue with the master cylinder. Until you have this figured out be VERY careful driving it and keep your hand on the parking brake. Intermittent brake problems are scary stuff!
  3. FunkyLaneO
    The resistor wire has nothing to do with the tach, it is on the positive side of the coil and if you have a black or red coil and a 74 or newer car you need that wire in place. The tach has 3 inputs, one is positive switched power, one is ground, and one is signal. The signal wire should go directly to the negative terminal of the coil. The Pertronix should not work any differently than the points did. If your tach is stuck then I would think the tach died. After all it is forty or so years old, they can be repaired by a speedo shop but it would probably be cheaper to find a used working one, if you have a multimeter with a tach function or a spare tach of any kind laying around you can test it out to rule out the pertronix. You can also test your tach out of the car with some alligator leads, the back of the tach is marked with where each wire should go, this would help you rule out any wiring issues.
  4. FunkyLaneO
    I have had a similar thing happen a couple times, both times when I removed the screw that holds the fusebox and lifted it out I could hear relays clicking so I looked inside the car and everything was working again. I attributed it to a bad connection to the fusebox and cleaned and tightened all the connections, haven't had any problems since. (I still carry an extra length of wire in the trunk so I can hotwire it to get home, just in case)
  5. FunkyLaneO
    Since Marshall hasn't chimed in I guess someone else has to say it, do a search on 5-speed conversion in the forum, tons of info has been posted on this very subject and if you are asking this question there are alot more you are going to need answered. btw/ the answer is we shorten the shift platform but you have alot of reading you should do before you attempt a 5 speed conversion.
  6. FunkyLaneO
    Audi 50?
  7. FunkyLaneO
    I have always wondered if you replace the pushrod with a new one, should you use break in oil (high zddp)? does it need it since it rides the cam just like the rockers? is there a danger of cam wear or since it doesn't ride the cam with the greater pressure of the rockers is it not a concern? maybe the engine builder guru's can chime in.
  8. FunkyLaneO
    A compression test on a cold motor won't tell you much but cylinder 4 is a little wierd, even cold they should all be close to the same numbers. Rings wear over time but don't "go bad" while sitting unless there is water in the cylinders then they could go really bad really fast. I doubt that rings are your problem, I would look at something electrical (or electronic) and M42 swap isn't trivial there is quite a bit of work that has to be done to make it work in your car.
  9. FunkyLaneO
    looks like it says E21 and since the fuel pump location casting is there but it is not drilled I am guessing it is from an early 320i, 2 liter. Check the serial # on the block, it should match the VIN of the car it came from if it was not a factory replacement.
  10. FunkyLaneO
    No way to tell which engine it is by looking at the valve cover (other than it is an M10) see if you can get a picture of the sides of the head, the numbers on there will go a long way towards determining what the motor is. You should see the head's model # (121, E12, E21) and a casting date.
  11. FunkyLaneO
    While the subframe is out take it to a welder and have him (or her) strengthen the drivers side mounting tab for the engine (where the engine mount attaches to the subframe). If you do a search for "subframe reinforce" you should find posts with pictures. This is highly recommended as they routinely crack at that location.
  12. FunkyLaneO
    Based on the pictures it looks like really old NOS, old gaskets can get brittle just sitting on a shelf for 30+ years, you may want to ask the seller when this was manufactured. Other sources list new kits for only a few dollars more so you may want to shop around.
  13. FunkyLaneO
    Andrew, Is there a Sachs part number for that kit or is that something you put together?
  14. FunkyLaneO
    The kits usually come with a TO bearing so you won't likely find one that will work for the 5-speed. You will need to buy the parts individually to replace your clutch. If you get it apart and discover your flywheel was replaced with a 215mm then you will need a different TO bearing so it is good to know before you order parts. As I recall the 228mm requires the E21 323i TO bearing and the 215mm requires the E21 320i TO bearing.
  15. FunkyLaneO
    That is a good attitude and you have a great resource here on the board, start putting together a laundry list based on what has been said and if any of it confuses you just ask questions. This board is GREAT about not flaming people who actually try to learn (unlike alot of other boards) Here is an incompete list of things I would check out: 1. fuel system (it looks a little scary to me, figure out what is going on there and square it away first, fuel is dangerous and engine fires suck) 2. tidy up all loose electrical, get rid of unnecessary aftermarket stuff, connect your temp gauge. 3. figure out your choke situation 4. install the correct battery and make sure your grounds are all correctly attached 5. put a hose clamp on your brake booster hose, if it leaks your engine will run like crap and your braking will be compromised 6. get the correct brake fluid hose on your brake fluid reservoir and don't use hose clamps (they can break the plastic and the one you have on there is waaaay the wrong size anyway) I hope this helps you in identifying what needs to be done, generally I knock out the big stuff first then do the fine tuning (like if you have a vacuum leak then there is no point in trying to tune the carb, or if your car is about to burst into flames then there is no point in doing anything else to it until the safety stuff is done)
  16. FunkyLaneO
    Wow!, there is some stuff going on in there, like Steven said the water temp sender is not hooked up, also the battery is backwards (the wrong battery was made to fit, placing a strain on all the wires that connect to it), the electric choke is not hooked up (potentially your issue if it never fully opens), I am not sure what I am looking at with the fuel delivery (?). I think a PO that had this car fancied himself shade tree mechanic but had no idea what he was doing. I would start by sorting out all that electrical and determining what is hacked (yellow wire? that isn't original whatever it is)and what belongs (like a connection to your temp gauge so you know if it actually is overheating). I hope you don't take this the wrong way, I am not ripping on you or your car, I am trying to be as constructive as possible but like I said, you got alot of stuff going on under that hood!
  17. FunkyLaneO
    Do you have a thermal spacer between the carb and manifold? if the carb gets too warm all the fuel will boil out of the carb bowl and require you to crank awhile to get it started.
  18. FunkyLaneO
    Between the carb and manifold or between the manifold and head? The carb spacers are readily available pretty much anywhere you can buy a Weber carb. I have never heard of anybody wanting to put one between the manifold and head and am not sure why you would want to, so I have no idea if anything like that would be available.
  19. FunkyLaneO
    mmmmm...... burritos.
  20. FunkyLaneO
    The light has to be installed (or a temporary ground wire in place) in order to work correctly, the signal gets it's ground from the mounting screw. if it is hanging loose it will do weird things because it is not completing the circuit the intended way. In your picture I don't see a tap-a-light did you replace the stock socket with a dual filament one? Normally one wire goes to the tap-a-light and the other goes to the original socket. the extra wire from the tap-a-light goes to the metal frame of the light for ground. edit: also are both filaments illuminating when you have either the running lights on or the signal, if the circuits are bridged at any point they will do what you are showing. take a piece of wire and make a temp ground so you can troubleshoot it off of the car. you can also unplug one wire at a time to narrow down which side of the car is having the problem (if it isn't both sides)
  21. FunkyLaneO
    http://www.petrolicious.com/these-are-the-ten-best-vintage-four-cylinder-engines
  22. FunkyLaneO
    http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/110817-v8-2002/
  23. FunkyLaneO
    I went and looked at some of my clusters and discovered some have that connector and some do not, I did some tests and discovered that connector illuminates your brake light (in the cluster) so that connector is for one of the many functions of that light, leaving it disconnected will not affect anything other than to not light up when your brake reservoir is low (or whatever other function it controls)
  24. FunkyLaneO
    The tach doesn't supply any additional grounding, the only difference between it and the clock is the signal wire that does not provide ground. The wire and connector for the ground should be the same between both clusters and that lone wire should be pluggen in regardless of which cluster you have installed.
  25. FunkyLaneO
    (nt)
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