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  1. Hey guys! I'm doing a m44 from e36 swap in my old 73' 2002 and i've got some problems with the ignition and the spark. I've got the m44 with the m42 intake, the m44 wiring and i've got an e30 DME. My question is: do I absolutely need the e36 DME or I can use the e30 DME (from m42) ??? Because I don't have ANY spark...
  2. Can anyone give me advice on a new motor for my 1600? I can get a stock rebuilt 2.0 for $2500 or have a 2.0 core built for $5500. The built motor will have a mild cam, 90mm bore and 9.5:1 compression. What kind of horsepower approx. will I have with each option? This is relative, but is it worth paying $3000 more for the built option. I am just a weekend cruiser, not going to race. But the enthusiast side of my would love the extra HP. If the HP gain is significant, I may want to go with the built option. Thanks
  3. Local craigslist ad of an e30 325ix part-out. Would the engine and transmission fit in a 2002? With it being the ix, is the engine any different than a regular 325i?
  4. Haven't posted in a while. Thought I'd provide a pic of the car as it sits now. Drove this junk up from Texas through New Mexico, Oklahoma, Missouri (Misery), Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, to PA. Handles beautifully, not too harsh considering the suspension spring rate. The Toyo HP's performed flawlessly when I hit a snow storm on the Penna Turnpike. You may notice I lost a wiper blade and arm, also on the turnpike. If anyone has a wiper arm with the airfoil please let me know. Waiting till spring to get the seats and door cards reupholstered, but otherwise I am super happy with the car. The thing
  5. After finally starting the car, there was a horrible screeching sound coming from the back off the engine. Really no way to diagnose the problem without removing the engine and transmission again. I ended up pretty much disassembling the entire car: exhaust, driveshaft, fuel lines, hoses, engine, transmission, radiator, engine wiring harness. I discovered that the shaft collar for the throw-out / release bearing was contacting the splined part of the spring pack on the clutch friction disc. I contacted gripforce clutches and they confirmed that the friction disc needs to be in
  6. As some of you may have read already, I have been having some issues with the factory throttle set up. I decided to build my own linkage that would eliminate the slipping throttle arm. I had tried different fixes, including welding on a clamping collar to the throttle lever / arm, but it slipped anyway. So, I went out the junk yard and pulled a throttle bell crank out of an e36. The older ones are made of metal - aluminum actually. I knew it wouldn't fit directly, and since I don't have the equipment to weld aluminum, I decided to recreate it out of metal, and 3/8 rod. This it the origina
  7. Thought I'd post a quick update. I finished up the wiring, built a relay bank, which is mounted in the trunk where the battery will go, and, finally, finished up the exhaust. Wiring mess. Thankfully, one night when it actually rained here, I went through the entire wiring harness, labelled everything, and removed some questionable additions and kill switches added by the previous owner. This mess has to get through two small holes on the driver's side firewall. Relay bank I built with Hella waterproof relays. The two right side relays are Derale relays that I am
  8. As promised I have some updates for the exhaust system. This was a mega pain to finish, mainly because the weather was lousy this weekend. Ever try to weld in 40mph wind gusts? Not fun. But first, some pics of refitting headlights and rear roundel. Front end. In a previous posts, I mentioned that the roundel for the rear panel did not fit with the grommets. So, I decided to cut some threads into the posts and install them with lock nuts. Rear end. On to the exhaust. The entire system, including hangers is 304 Stainless steel. The tubes 2.5" the length
  9. Here are some updates on the reassembly. This first pic is of another angle before getting started. I also removed all the flares while working on the car. Driver's side. Paint is pretty nice, of course like anything, if you look for flaws you are going to find them. They are minor and I have planned for some touch ups, after assembly. Installed the trunk and trunk seal. If anyone has ideas on installing the rear panel roundel / emblem please let me know. The studs on the back of the emblem fit so snugly in the holes that there is no room for the emblem grommet and I
  10. Jumping ahead. I have seen door card kits on Ebay but everything is on a budget. Didn't seem that hard so I decided to make my out of some good quality wood. Attached the old card to the wood and traced the pattern. Any place where the old cardboard was broken, I used the other card to make sure the pattern was correct. Cut and drilled the pattern. Here is the result. On to paint and body work. Disassembled the hood. paint stripping more and more and more. What a mess?! Spayed the hood with prep and etch zin
  11. Okay, so I'm back! I bought an engine and transmission from @williamggruff last year with the intent of swapping it before Vintage 2016, but that did not happen. I'm going to take a stab at it before Vintage this year. I'm tired of working hard to keep up with the pack. I'll store my current stock 1600 for future resale (Like that's ever going to happen!) I started this tear down with my daughters with the intent of them helping me through it. They did, for the most part, help me with part of the engine tear down. I've "ditched" them for now in the interest of time
  12. Even though a car looks good when you get a hold of it, gremlins often lurk underneath. Considering these cars were not galvanized, rust is unavoidable, even on a desert car. I was preparing to clearance the rear wheel wells for the flares, when I started poking around. Go looking for trouble and you'll find it. After the screw driver went into the rocker a couple of times, I knew I would have to get into them a repair the rust. I also ended up repairing a rust spot on under the driver's rear quarter that had formed under the sound deadening material, literally on the vertical body panel.
  13. Knowing I need some good oil cooling for the S54, I decided to go with a oil cooler from a RX7 turbo. They are very popular amongst Porsche race clubs and vintage track racers, primarily because of their size, low cost, and cooling capacity. Used ones are relatively cheap as well. You will find aftermarket "RX7" oil coolers on ebay, but I avoided buying one even though it would be new. Every cheap aluminum radiator I have bought off ebay has eventually leaked. Here's a close up of the AN fittings welded to the cooler. The top fitting next to little aluminum post is the inlet and th
  14. Here is a small update on the Style 5 rims that I am using on the car. I found these at a local salvage yard for $300. They had the usual curb rash and the clear coat was peeling. Cosmetically, the barrels were pretty bad. I used various stages of grit to remove the curb rash and polish the barrels to a mirror finish. I finished the polish with a polishing compound and light cutting jeweler's rouge on a shaggy buffing wheel. This project was beyond tedious, and only recommended for true skin flints and insomniacs. I took the rims apart and set out to polish the barrels.
  15. Lats update of the night. When I ordered the front suspension setup from Ground Control, I was still planning to use to stock rear end, so they sent it with some blue coil race springs. With the 30 trailing arms that was not going to work, so I went with a rear coilover setup, Seats and springs set me back about an extra hundred bucks. Here are some pics of the trailing arm reinforcement. I used .25 wall DOM to reinforce the mounting location. You can also see the gusset I added to the front section of the hub where the splines of the axle go into the hub/bearing. This is a differ
  16. Here are some pics of the the radiator install. I went with Griffin Scirocco style radiator. It is only about 13 or 14 inches wide but super thick. I also knew I wanted to keep the front core support, so I used some box tubing with a decent side wall thickness to rebuild the core support with a forward tilt. The electric fan is a pusher style Spal. Added some support tabs that the bottom radiator channel will sit on. I will add some small rubber bushings so the radiator is not riding metal to metal. The top section of the rad was supported with some brushed aluminum I had lyin
  17. This is my first update in a long while and I thought I would provide some backstory on what has been happening with the project. I new that the stock diff. would not hold up to the power of the S54, so I decided to use and e36 diff carrier and swap in a e36 diff 3.91 LSD. In retrospect, it would have been easier and probably more swap friendly just to modify the e30 subframe to fit into the car. If this turns out to be a turd or starts dog-tailing on me, I will just swap in the e30 rear end. Next I welded the e36 diff carrier to the stock 2002 rear subframe with plenty of gu
  18. sector5pro

    Me and Blue

    From the album: 1976 BMW 2002

    Had my wife take a photo while we were driving around town last summer.
  19. 2002 M20 no start Hi everyone, I’m looking for some help on diagnosing why I can’t get the M20 in my 2002 to turn over. I’ve used both my Bentley for the E30, ETM, and various other resources to diagnose why the car won’t start. Looking for any advice that I may have missed. In short, when I attempt to turn the key, the fuel pump does NOT run. The fuel pump relay is not getting switched when the ingition is turned on. I’ve spliced the 2002 harness into the M20 according to 6 into 2 document and everything appears connected properly. Fuel pump is functional, all relays are good. I don’t have a spare ECU lying around so I can’t determine with any certainty if mine’s bad. I have performed the following tests per my Bentley on the fuel pump relay, main relay, and motronic ecu: Test Fuel Pump direct to +12V - PASS Test fuel pump relay control - Jump pins on 36+2, ground pin 3 on motronic connector - PASS Test main relay control via motronic connector - PASS - relay clicks Test Main Relay (this was done before replacement)- FAIL - NOW REPLACED!!! per page 6:50 of bentley Test voltage between red-wire and ground of ICV - FAIL Test voltage supply - PASS Test voltage between 30 and ground - PASS Test voltage between 86 and ground - PASS Test voltage supply at large red wire to relays - PASS Conclusion - REPLACE THE MAIN RELAY Test Fuel Pump Relay voltage between 85 and 86 with ignition on - FAILS fails on 12v test between pins 85/86 with ignition on PROBLEM WITH MOTRONIC ground? Starter input to motronic FAILS - This is pin 27 No 12v when ignition on - not sure why this is.Not 100% sure why this is since the 2 black starter wires are connected to the m20 harness via c101/18 pin connector. Thanks Chris
  20. I`ll be installing a total rebuild 2 litre engine into my 1967.What oil is best for first 500 miles
  21. We are baffled. Have been working on an m42 swap into my '76 for over a year now and the damn thing just won't start. I have had some threads over at r3vlimited that offered suggestions but nothing that has stuck yet, so I am reaching out here. The FAQ is much more active. We have spark, we have fuel, we have excellent compression. The engine is timed properly. Every sensor ohms out fine. The wiring harness has been pinned out repeatedly and everything matches. We have tried two different ecus, two different crank position sensors, two different cam position sensors. The car has coil on plugs (because the spark plug wires that came with the car were busted), its got brand new coils. Injectors are the common ford four pintle injections that were rebuilt prior to purchase. They all seem to spray properly. Fuel pressure is in spec. Coils are in proper order 1-2-3-4 from front to back, we have tried other orders that some people have sworn work. Relays all have power, the power seems to remain constant throughout cranking. The car cranks and wants to start but won't. Last week we replaced the crank pulley and it made a noticeable difference. Now it gets even closer to starting and backfires and pops and gurgles and sometimes even seems to start with one rev before dying. Below is a video though the phone doesn't pick up the sound that well. One thing that has bothered us, and is possibly the cause of this, when we pull the coils and watch them spark (in slo mo video) they stop sparking after a few cycles (of wasted spark). It just seems to stop sparking completely. We would think this has something to do with the crank position sensor or the ecu but as mentioned, we have tried to ecus (both supposedly from working cars) and two CPS, both new, both ohm out correctly. We are definitely at the "throw parts at it" stage of troubleshooting. Right now I have an AFM on the way (though supposedly it should start with this unplugged, so we have tried both ways), and another (used) CPS (this one is a different part number, the original part number that was later superseded). The r3vlimited threads are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384330 http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=391672 Video of a start attempt here: https://goo.gl/photos/ZGRHB9xRmQ8WfcrX7
  22. So I am up-to no good I guess.. i am about to start a project and buy a S14B20 engine from a salvage 320IS. Because without an engine no engine swap possible... I went to see the guy who put it up for sale, half redneck.. sale price was 9000 Euro everything in: cables, engine, gearbox and the wreck. I visited the place today before making a final decision of buying everything, engine was pulled out of the car as was the gearbox and the cables. The seller told me he sold the gearbox last week the someone else and suggested delivering a 262 Getrag instead of a 265 Getrag.. First question is: should I buy everything all together with the 262 Getrag or just the engine and the cables? The seller insists the gearbox matches the engine no problem.. But what is the difference? And should buy it? The only reason why I would first buy the engine is because they are REALLY hard to find. Later on this year I will buy a bare 02 to mount everything in... Any suggestions?
  23. Left my house at 9:40 yesterday morning, home by 6:pm with the motor in the car, and the trailer parked out front. I would like to give special thanks to, Lewis Hernandez for the extra hand, Buddy Barreto for the use of his garage/shop, tools, lunch and photography, and my brother John Riparetti (John's in the blue and black flannel shirt), the master mind and driving force behind this project.
  24. Ok, so it is time to restore the car and either build an engine or do a swap. I have a feeling I will get a big "no" on the swap and I understand but, I feel a modern engine may be a better choice. Another factor is I need a 5spd so, 320i or a swapped tranny. The car will be an around the town car and a DE machine. So, here are the choices 1. M10 rebuild and 320i tranny. Billet crank, custom rods and pistons. Big valve head with custom cam, ITBs and a turbo running a Link EFI. 2. S2000 stock(n/a for now) with Honda tranny(6sp) with aftermarket ecu and later a turbo.. What do you think?
  25. Finishing up an m42 swap and had some questions on my options regarding purge control valve, vapor tank etc. The car (1976) did not have the in-trunk expansion tank and the tank filler was vented directly out of the trunk when I bought the car, and its been that way ever since. The m42 did not come with a purge valve. The way I see it is my options are keep venting straight out and either add a dummy purge valve or resistor to eliminate the CEL. Do the same but add a charcoal canister before venting to slightly offset the eco-damage/fuel smell. Buy a used stock expansion tank, m42 purge valve, run the vent all the way up the car to the TB and hook it up as intended. Although I am a certified tree-hugger, the last option seems like far too much work and expense for a car that will be driven occasionally at-most. Am I completely misunderstanding how this stuff works? I know a proper operating system should have slightly better mileage since it burns the vapors instead of dumping them, but is it that big of a deal? Can I add the expansion tank and still avoid running another hose to the engine bay and collect and return the vapors in some other manner? Best, Peter
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