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Found 119 results

  1. After finally starting the car, there was a horrible screeching sound coming from the back off the engine. Really no way to diagnose the problem without removing the engine and transmission again. I ended up pretty much disassembling the entire car: exhaust, driveshaft, fuel lines, hoses, engine, transmission, radiator, engine wiring harness. I discovered that the shaft collar for the throw-out / release bearing was contacting the splined part of the spring pack on the clutch friction disc. I contacted gripforce clutches and they confirmed that the friction disc needs to be installed with the spring pack facing the flywheel into the recessed portion of the flywheel, which is not typical. The clutch kit only comes with generic instructions showing the spring pack of the friction disc facing away from the flywheel. After making sure that the release bearing slid freely on the collar, everything clutch related went back on the engine and torqued to spec. Getting the engine back in. My first approach was to install it form the bottom, but that was huge pain. So, I rigged the engine differently to the hoist and installed the engine from the top, and then installed the transmission from the bottom. The 10 foot steel cable was used as a safety just in case the bolt holding the engine to the chain gave way. Then, I reinstalled the driveshaft and then the exhaust... again! I ordered an O2 plug which will be installed when it arrives this week. Installing the engine this way is so much easier. Right now, I am using a cheapy parts store ignition switch to start the car, which I will swap out once I get the new part. Now, I have to clean up the wiring... again. But hey it runs! There is link below to a pretty crude video of the engine running. Dust blowing everywhere as I rev the engine. I am leaving the flares, front spoiler, and hood off or now. They will be the last things to go on the car, which should be very soon. BMW 2002 S54 Swap 480p.mov
  2. As some of you may have read already, I have been having some issues with the factory throttle set up. I decided to build my own linkage that would eliminate the slipping throttle arm. I had tried different fixes, including welding on a clamping collar to the throttle lever / arm, but it slipped anyway. So, I went out the junk yard and pulled a throttle bell crank out of an e36. The older ones are made of metal - aluminum actually. I knew it wouldn't fit directly, and since I don't have the equipment to weld aluminum, I decided to recreate it out of metal, and 3/8 rod. This it the original metal cut. rot The arm after I bent it to match the OE e36 throttle bell crank, with the rod tacked in place. This is the e36 arm side by side with my creation. Another side by side shot. I matched the bends, because I had mocked up the mount with the e36 bell crank, so I knew the profile would work. Here is another side by side shot, with the rods cut to the right length. The top rod is where the spring goes and it pivots on two steel bushings, that are from a pulley I swapped into my Jeep. The bottom rod goes into the 2002 pedal and rides in the channel just like the original 2002 throttle lever. This is the new metal throttle bell crank with the end that will receive the cable end. And, the part installed, before I cleaned up the welds. The design is pretty straight forward, and the arm is fixed in place by the spring pressure that pushes it again the trans tunnel. Now, I have to paint all this junk, lube it up and check it off my list. This should provide plenty of torque to manipulate the bell crank that pulls the ITBs open.
  3. Thought I'd post a quick update. I finished up the wiring, built a relay bank, which is mounted in the trunk where the battery will go, and, finally, finished up the exhaust. Wiring mess. Thankfully, one night when it actually rained here, I went through the entire wiring harness, labelled everything, and removed some questionable additions and kill switches added by the previous owner. This mess has to get through two small holes on the driver's side firewall. Relay bank I built with Hella waterproof relays. The two right side relays are Derale relays that I am using for the fuel pump and fan. Both are ground triggered by the ECU / ECM. The Derale relays incorporate a blocking diode specifically for ground triggers by the ECM. The diode prevents amperage spikes traveling back to the ECM that can occur during motor dwell. I eventually added inline fuses to all ECM relays. From Left to right FAN, Fuel Pump, Hi-Beam, Low-Beam, 12v constant trigger by Position 3 on the ignition switch, ignition switch 12v input for coils, ignition switched 12v input for cams, vanos and air valve, and ignition switched 12v input for injectors. Mounted in the trunk. My plan was to use a distribution block from a e39 BMW, but mini fuses are surprisingly difficult to find, especially in low amperage. So, I created positive bus bar and went with the original circuit breaker bank, and added a negative ground block just behind the strut bar. 20 amp for the ECM wiring and 30 amp for the fan and fuel pump. I did add inline fuses with lower amperage for the ECM relays. Engine wiring mess. Random shots of me figuring out stuff. I have cleaned up most of the wiring with friction tape and will soon add some wiring loom tubing to give it a nice look. Engine bay and ECM in place. I wanted to mount the the computer inside the cabin, but the loom was just too short. Stupid brake fluid reservoir keeps breaking off. You'll notice I mounted and expansion tank where the washer reservoir goes. It's from a Volvo. I was going to us a Mercedes tank, but the Volvo's was more compact and only has one inlet and outlet. The washer reservoir tucked up and under the cowl is from an e36. I just wired it into the original loom. another shot. And a shot of the ECM in its home. Picture's a little blown out. I'll clean up all that wiring this weekend. On to the rear end. Order a 4.10 LSD medium case for an e30. It may be too low a ratio, but I can always swap the 3.73 from my e30 if this doesn't play well on the highway. Cleaned up and rebuilt the differential. New seals and all. On to the subframe and the sway bar mounts. Originally, I had tack welded the mounts to have the sway bar go over the top of the trailing arms, but the bar interfered with the driveshaft. Mounts I fabricated. Close up of mounts. With camber adjusters welded in place. Yes, I am wearing socks with mandals, cause it's comfy. Full frontal. Wide. The rear suspension is hung. There is a bracket to swap out the rear solid discs for e36 vented, but I'll worry about that later. I rebuilt the calipers before installing Another angle. The subframe, differential, trailing arms, sway bar, and half shafts mounted. I rebuilt all the brake lines on the trailing arms as well. You will notice that this picture of the trailing arms has the shock mounted in double shear. It is also gusseted to add strength. Shot from rear of driver's side suspension arm and shock. The shocks are Koni adjustable dampers with Eibach springs. If the sway bar ends up hanging too low once the car is on the ground, I will affix it to the chassis, like an e30. The trailing arms are sitting much lower than they'll be sitting at ride height. Another shot. Finally, the exhaust fully tig welded being protected by my guard dog, Preston. All mandrel bent 304 stainless. Flat section is the subframe underpass. 1.5"x6" and has more volume than the twin 2.5 tube. I built it full flow with no restrictions. Going in the car on Saturday if the weather isn't disgustingly windy. Tomorrow, I am going to the pull-a-part to get the firewall mounted throttle bell crank and gas pedal out of an e30 (it had better still be there) and get ride of the stupid throttle arm, which keeps slipping. I made one with a clamping collar, like other members have done, but it still slips. Going to fix this problem once and for all. Headliner and windows will go in next week, and I plan to fire the engine. That's all for now.
  4. As promised I have some updates for the exhaust system. This was a mega pain to finish, mainly because the weather was lousy this weekend. Ever try to weld in 40mph wind gusts? Not fun. But first, some pics of refitting headlights and rear roundel. Front end. In a previous posts, I mentioned that the roundel for the rear panel did not fit with the grommets. So, I decided to cut some threads into the posts and install them with lock nuts. Rear end. On to the exhaust. The entire system, including hangers is 304 Stainless steel. The tubes 2.5" the length of the system, which terminates in two 304 SS Jone's (formerly Aero) Turbine XL straight through mufflers. Exhaust from underneath the car. I used 304 SS V band clamps to attached the system to the headers. I might install another set somewhere in the system so it is more manageable to install and for servicing other systems. That crappy throttle lever is still giving me problems. The result before fusion welding the joints, which will happen sometime this week/end. And another angle. The hangers are bolted to the body. This makes it incredibly easy to install the hangers and then bolt the system in place as a unit, instead of fighting to slip the rubber hangers over fixed mounts. Onto the E30 rear subframe swap. This subframe is also found in e36 compacts and Z3s, which have 5x120 wheel hubs. I had always planned on swapping in an e30 subframe, but I had invested in the e36 rear end and carrier. It's not a bad setup, just a bit heavy. I had time to fuss with it, because it rained all weekend. What really set me on this task was the need to have to have the subframe and axles installed before I could finish fabricating the exhaust. I am now going to sell the e36 diff and find an e30 diff with a good ratio. I was really set on the 3.91 ratio, and I know that the gear set could be swapped into an e30 medium case diff, but probably not cost effective at this time. Still have to cough up for the interior. I think 4.10 might be too low. Anyway, still mulling it over. The S54 does rev to 8500 RPM so... After building a jig from the old 2002 subframe by using some large 1/2 bolts welded to square tubing to hold everything rigid, I measured the center pickup points to the diff center line. BMW diffs have the drive flange center line cast into the housing. At least, each one I've ever seen has had the center line cast into the housing. Here's what I cam up with. The subframe has to sit forward to the pickup points so that the center of the rear hub will fit in the center of the rear wheel well. This was confirmed by measuring with a plump bob, and cross measuring from the subframe pickup points to the differential mounting points on the subframe. Now, I will need to fab up a mount for securing the differential to the body. I plan on making a second diff mount. Gusseted the mounts. Gussets for the front and hey it works. Installed and it works. This is so much easier to install that the other subframe I had built. Before I finished the exhaust. Installed with the rear trailing arm, which also has new hard line brake tubing thanks to the rainy weather. The wheel sitting nicely in the wheel well. This weekend, if the weather behaves, I will clean it up and go pull an e30 diff from the bone yard and fab the mount. Hopefully, I can find something. Pretty slim picking when it comes to e30's in the local wrecking yards. That all for now. More to come...
  5. Here are some updates on the reassembly. This first pic is of another angle before getting started. I also removed all the flares while working on the car. Driver's side. Paint is pretty nice, of course like anything, if you look for flaws you are going to find them. They are minor and I have planned for some touch ups, after assembly. Installed the trunk and trunk seal. If anyone has ideas on installing the rear panel roundel / emblem please let me know. The studs on the back of the emblem fit so snugly in the holes that there is no room for the emblem grommet and I don't feel like enlarging the holes on the fresh paint. I also installed the gas tank, and fuel lines, using a silicone seal between the tank and body. At this stage you can see that I riveted in the quarter window channels and installed the quarter windows. Installed 3 point seat belts in the front, but decided against the 3 points in the rear because of mounting issues. The seat belts I am using are American made Key Safety Systems 3 point belts that are Humvee / Army surplus - brand new and cheaply sourced on Ebay. Very high quality as well and standard equipment for many car manufacturers. At the bottom right of the pic you can see the 7/16 - 20 bung I welded into the rocker. I have scoured junkyards looking for BMW hardware and, interestingly, I found that all the seat belts are attached with SAE bolts and hardware rather than metric - weird. I also fit the e24 rear seats by following the tutorial in this forum. I test fit the rear interior panel and there is a slight gap between them and the seats, which will have to be filled. I will cut out the rear parcel shelf, since the one I made will no longer fit with the seats in stalled. I have installed Eastwood's Xmat sound deadening material in the trunk and inside the rear quarter sections and on the roof. On to the engine and transmission install. I decided to go with an older style clutch and flywheel, as the dual mass flywheel is prone to failing, and expensive to replace when it fails. The one I had on the s54 engine sounded like it had sand in so off it came and on went the aluminum flywheel and high performance clutch. But first, a new pilot bearing. Flywheel installed. Side shot. next I installed the clutch, naturally. You may notice the oil pan I am using is from and e34 m50 front sump. It has an integrated windage tray. I would end up fabricating an aluminum bracket to hold the dipstick securely to the oil filter housing. The s54 oil pan and pump off. A poor shot of the m50 oil pump and with s54 oil pump drive gear. Clutch fully mated to the flywheel and torqued to spec. And another angle. Engine and transmission together. Next day and my crazy idea to put the engine in from the bottom. I was really trying to avoid damaging the freshly painted firewall. This tuned out to much more difficult than anticipated. I have normally put the engine in from the top and then mated the transmission from the bottom, but with the door on, fresh paint, and clutch installed, I was hesitant to try it and screw up / undo all the body work. A side note, the s54 is canted 30 degrees to the passenger side, as apposed to the m20 and I think also the m10 which are 20 degrees. The s54 is a physically much taller and longer engine due to the head and vanos unit. My commitment to not lose the front radiator bulkhead entirely, is what forced me to rebuild the firewall and transmission tunnel. My aim was to get the engine as far back and low as possible. So, I clearance and reinforced the subframe. Beefy steel for the reinforcing plates. And, the bottom plate. Gloss black does not photograph too well, but it's plenty strong and gets the engine in the spot I want. Shot of the engine drive system. I would have to remove all this junk to get the engine in from the bottom. Positioning the car before placing the front jack stands. After a few hours, and a lot of choice words the engine was home. I had to remove the accessory drive belt and alternator to fit it through the front frame rails, because of the engine slant. Griffin sirocco style radiator installed with fabricated aluminum top plate to secure it in place. You can also see the Willwood brakes proportioning valve installed in the firewall just below the steering shaft. A few days later and after cleaning up the rear end, I installed the rear subframe and differential as a unit. The differential is a 3.91 LSD from a e36. Would i do it this way again? Maybe, maybe not. Fitting the e30 rear would probably be easier, and then all you need to worry about is position of the wheel in the wheel well fore and aft. But, this fits, the driveshaft is linear, and ujoints are in good alignment. side shot. you might notice I welded in some positive lock caster and camber adjusters to the trailing arm mounts. They are stupid expensive for what they are (about $100 per pair), and I wish someone would make these available at a better price. Maybe I'll take the threaded locking plate to my machinist and see if he can fab some up. And, the rear shot of the differential mounted in place. Tomorrow, I will finish up the exhaust system and then fusion weld all the connections. Here's what I have so far. The entire system is 2.5 inch 304 stainless. The ECM ( Specialist Components Typhoon) I am running is alpha-N, so no cats are needed and no MAF. I ordered a cross over off ebay that the seller said was 304. It had tons of obstructions and when I put a magnet to it, the magnet stuck. So got a refund on that. Critter at AR Fab made the crossover for a really fair price. The resonators are Aero exhaust and beautifully constructed. I am also using aero exist turbine mufflers. Anyway, hopefully, I'll get a bunch done tomorrow.
  6. Jumping ahead. I have seen door card kits on Ebay but everything is on a budget. Didn't seem that hard so I decided to make my out of some good quality wood. Attached the old card to the wood and traced the pattern. Any place where the old cardboard was broken, I used the other card to make sure the pattern was correct. Cut and drilled the pattern. Here is the result. On to paint and body work. Disassembled the hood. paint stripping more and more and more. What a mess?! Spayed the hood with prep and etch zinc phosphoric acid to treat any rust. This or the paint stripper would come back to haunt me later. Pretty sure it was the stripper. Right? I primed the hood trunk and fenders with Eastwood grey epoxy primer. Stuff is awesome and not too pricey. This was done to keep the parts from flash rusting, and not for final prep for paint. And yes, my neighbor's wall is about to collapse. I also stripped the door and the trunk lid and finally decided that this was just not time or cost effective. Paint strippers leave way to much residue, the likelihood of having remover residue in nooks and crannies was too high and could jeopardize future paint work. So, I found a guy who does dustless water blasting and talked him down to $400 for the whole car and doors. I was very concerned with warping panels, but he showed me some of his prior work and it was impressive. After - It revealed that the car was in very good condition, bu the front driver corner had had prior body work. I would body work this with a hammer and dolly, weld up the pull holes and fix it right. Before and after. You can see the way I eliminated some of the cowl and replaced the sheet metal above the heater core with a formed piece of square tubing - very rigid and stiffens up the chassis considerably. Next shots are of the primed car with filler and block work. Below is an interior shot. The bay and interior would be coated with 2K Ceramic chassis black. I undercoated the car with Magnet paints undercoat / rust encapsulator and top coated that with more chassis black. The frame rails, and any nooks and crannies with Eastwood's internal frame coating and rust encapsulator, which is awesome stuff, not too pricey. I used it on the subframe body mounts, frame rails, rockers, B pillars, and shock towers, and the bottom interior of each door. The painter's body man, who who he eventually fired undid a bunch of my body work, which burns me up, but... Below the car is on a dolly I built to move the car around. Brand new wheels and they are always going flat. and the rear. you can see the rear shock tower truss I built to stiffen everything up and hold the battery. The plate with holes that attaches it to the trunk floor and rear cross member, is also what the differential carrier attaches to. And the money shot! Remember I said the paint stripper would come back to bite me. The reason the hood is not on the car is because some residue would react to the paint, clear or something, and cause solvent pops / fish eyes in the hood. Anyway, I am getting that back today and everything should be kosher. Right now I have been working to get everything back on the car. I'll post more pics of the clutch install, engine install, install of the e24 rear seats, 3 point front seat belts, and the fitting of bright work. If anyone knows how to make the vent window close properly, please let me know? I have rebuilt the frame and re-riveted the frame and vent window hinge and even tried a different hing and window with no luck. The issue is that the top of the vent window closes on top of the weather seal instead of in the recessed part. And, the write up in this forum do not accurately tell how to adjust the vent window itself. Ok, more to come.
  7. Okay, so I'm back! I bought an engine and transmission from @williamggruff last year with the intent of swapping it before Vintage 2016, but that did not happen. I'm going to take a stab at it before Vintage this year. I'm tired of working hard to keep up with the pack. I'll store my current stock 1600 for future resale (Like that's ever going to happen!) I started this tear down with my daughters with the intent of them helping me through it. They did, for the most part, help me with part of the engine tear down. I've "ditched" them for now in the interest of time! They were only 5 and 7(at the time), so I have plenty more engine builds in their future. Vid Link: https://goo.gl/photos/zNaBnQtCfiYfUseSA Here's where it sits now: Not much to taking them down. I just used zip locks and and a sharpie to keep things organized. I started here: Don't mind the hammer. I didn't use it.... Okay, I'm lying! But, I didn't break anything. SERIOUSLY. I will say this clutch has me scared. Any thoughts? Wondering if I can continue using it: Here is a better view: She's pretty nasty.... Although I do like them nasty. No...Wait... That's different! Anyway, more shots: Front end tear down: Oil Pump Removal. I used one of those Craftsman MAX ACCESS Socket sets. https://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-19pc-universal-max-axess-socket-and-ratchet-set-3-8-8221-drive?taxon_id=1845 They do a good job of getting on the nut. I didn't want to use the open end of my box wrench and my standard sockets interfered with the oil tube. My 2.0 has SWAG!!!!! Okay, I'll stop with the corny puns... ^Timing chain guides. I was kind of disappointment that I didn't get to use my cheaply made 1/8" stamp set I snagged off of Amazon. The did a good job of marking everything for me. Do they come from the factory like this or is it a rebuild? Lastly, here are the pistons. Lots of carbon build up. This was an FI engine from a 320I (In think 1982), but I will be going with a Weber 2 bbl I got from @ldsbeaker when it's done. If anybody has any questions or need more pictures, let me know! Box of stuff left over...
  8. Even though a car looks good when you get a hold of it, gremlins often lurk underneath. Considering these cars were not galvanized, rust is unavoidable, even on a desert car. I was preparing to clearance the rear wheel wells for the flares, when I started poking around. Go looking for trouble and you'll find it. After the screw driver went into the rocker a couple of times, I knew I would have to get into them a repair the rust. I also ended up repairing a rust spot on under the driver's rear quarter that had formed under the sound deadening material, literally on the vertical body panel. Upon Further investigation. The first cuts and inspection. My body working tools are pretty crude - a grinder, welder, body hammers, etc. - but they work. I hand formed some new rocker panels and welded them in, after making sure the rust was not further into the rockers and rust encapsulating the rockers since I was in there already. Patching the rocker near the front door jamb. Metal finishing. and more metal finishing What else is lurking under there? The fenders revealed their secrets after removal and making the cuts for the flares. closer inspection or the rear area of the fenders. Making a template for the patch. The result shot with some zinc weld thru primer. On another note, a great replacement for the hard to find body mounting screws used to attach the fenders and brake reservoir, is to go to a salvage yard and pull the Torx bit body mount screws from the fenders of e36's, e46, and many modern BMW's. They are usually in good shape, can be scuffed and painted to match your car's body work, are cheap if not free. (The salvage yard I go to just gave them to me, and have the same depth and thread pitch as the originals body mount screws. I think they offer a cleaner look too.
  9. Knowing I need some good oil cooling for the S54, I decided to go with a oil cooler from a RX7 turbo. They are very popular amongst Porsche race clubs and vintage track racers, primarily because of their size, low cost, and cooling capacity. Used ones are relatively cheap as well. You will find aftermarket "RX7" oil coolers on ebay, but I avoided buying one even though it would be new. Every cheap aluminum radiator I have bought off ebay has eventually leaked. Here's a close up of the AN fittings welded to the cooler. The top fitting next to little aluminum post is the inlet and the bottom next to the drain plug is the return. Modern BMW engines have an oil cooler thermostat in the oil filter housing, so that the engines come up to temp before oil cooling is needed. The oil cooler thermostat / bypass in the RX7 oil cooler, which is mechanical and bypasses the cold oil from the engine similar to the BMW oil diverter needs to be removed and the passage blocked off. I undid the drain plug, tapped the hole and used an old bleeder valve to plug it. Now, oil will flow through the cooler regardless of temperature. The BMW oil diverter will function normally. Here's a closer shot. BMW oil lines going into the oil filter housing have slip fittings with O-rings. A few companies make a kit to adapt AN fittings to BMW oil filter housings used specifically to attach aftermarket oil coolers. I purchased on for close to $60, but now I see them on ebay for under $20. Attached to the cooler to the car using stainless rivnuts / nutserts and some aluminum brackets that I made. The brackets pictured below are actually some supports I made for the front air dam. Another pic of the brackets. and oil cooler as it sits with out the front air dam / spoiler attached to the car. I would eventually clearance the old bumper support for the oil cooler lines. Cooler lines from the filter housing. and, through the front valance. I would eventually clearance this more for serviceability. And how it sits under the front spoiler. I will probably add some wire mesh to protect the cooler from rocks and debris.
  10. Here is a small update on the Style 5 rims that I am using on the car. I found these at a local salvage yard for $300. They had the usual curb rash and the clear coat was peeling. Cosmetically, the barrels were pretty bad. I used various stages of grit to remove the curb rash and polish the barrels to a mirror finish. I finished the polish with a polishing compound and light cutting jeweler's rouge on a shaggy buffing wheel. This project was beyond tedious, and only recommended for true skin flints and insomniacs. I took the rims apart and set out to polish the barrels. The center sections were in good shape so I left those alone. I used aircraft stripper to remove the clear coat. It took a while and several coats but it eventually all came off. I used a plastic spakle / putty knife top gentle remove the tough stick on coating. I close up of the aircraft stripper doing it's thing. I polished the rims buy hand using a successive levels of grit paper - going from coarse to fine (250 for curb rash though 2000 for mirror polish. This was tedious top say the least. I finished the rims off with a buffing wheel on a drill and some jewler's rouge. BBS multi piece rims use special knurled bolts to hold them together and they are very expensive to replace. I called around to have them chromed, but it was going to be absurdly expensive so I decide to zinc plate them and polish. After buying a zinc ingot of ebay, I made a plating solution using acetic acid and sugar. The ingot has to soak at least 24 hrs to pull zinc into solution for plating. I used some rechargeable AA batteries for the voltage. Zinc plating requires a very low voltage to be passed through solution. I monitored the voltage drop with a meter to know when I need to replace the batteries. Below is a shot of the bolts coming out of solution. They ended up dull in color and had zinc crystals attached to the metal. I placed each bolt into a drill, spun them and polished them with super fine steel wool and 2000 grit wet #m autobody sand paper. The picture is lousy, but the finished results are very nice. Cleared the bolts before reassembly. Then I reassembled the rims, attaching the centers to the barrels and torquing the bolts to spec. I could be more pleased with the results.
  11. Lats update of the night. When I ordered the front suspension setup from Ground Control, I was still planning to use to stock rear end, so they sent it with some blue coil race springs. With the 30 trailing arms that was not going to work, so I went with a rear coilover setup, Seats and springs set me back about an extra hundred bucks. Here are some pics of the trailing arm reinforcement. I used .25 wall DOM to reinforce the mounting location. You can also see the gusset I added to the front section of the hub where the splines of the axle go into the hub/bearing. This is a different angle of the gussets. And another closeup. And finally the bottom side of the tailing arm with bracing welded in across the trailing arm's mounting points like found on an M3.
  12. Here are some pics of the the radiator install. I went with Griffin Scirocco style radiator. It is only about 13 or 14 inches wide but super thick. I also knew I wanted to keep the front core support, so I used some box tubing with a decent side wall thickness to rebuild the core support with a forward tilt. The electric fan is a pusher style Spal. Added some support tabs that the bottom radiator channel will sit on. I will add some small rubber bushings so the radiator is not riding metal to metal. The top section of the rad was supported with some brushed aluminum I had lying around. I used a wire wheel and then a flap wheel to give it a nice brushed aluminum look. Works great at locking the radiator in place. So, I knew that I was not going to be running drive-by-wire for the s54 and the typhoon ecu I ordered was set up for a throttle cable. I also knew I was not willing to pay $300 for a bell crank that is offered by some companies. So I made one out of an old BMW throttle body and bolted it in place of the throttle motor. Here is the throttle crank attached to the motor plate. You can see from the cut out that BMW throttle bodies supplied by Dellorto have coolant passages, which I very cool. Here it is attached to the engine. Admittedly, it was not my idea. Some e30 guys who swap in s50's use a similar setup.
  13. This is my first update in a long while and I thought I would provide some backstory on what has been happening with the project. I new that the stock diff. would not hold up to the power of the S54, so I decided to use and e36 diff carrier and swap in a e36 diff 3.91 LSD. In retrospect, it would have been easier and probably more swap friendly just to modify the e30 subframe to fit into the car. If this turns out to be a turd or starts dog-tailing on me, I will just swap in the e30 rear end. Next I welded the e36 diff carrier to the stock 2002 rear subframe with plenty of gussets and reinforcing plates. You might notice that the trailing arms from and e30/e36 compact. I used those to get the 5 lug conversion and rear disc brakes to match the front. And, the end result... However, I would end up making even more adjustments. I welded on some tabs in similar locations to the original trailing arms to accept the Ireland sway bar. IMG_2735.CR2 IMG_2736.CR2 IMG_2737.CR2
  14. Haven't posted in a while. Thought I'd provide a pic of the car as it sits now. Drove this junk up from Texas through New Mexico, Oklahoma, Missouri (Misery), Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, to PA. Handles beautifully, not too harsh considering the suspension spring rate. The Toyo HP's performed flawlessly when I hit a snow storm on the Penna Turnpike. You may notice I lost a wiper blade and arm, also on the turnpike. If anyone has a wiper arm with the airfoil please let me know. Waiting till spring to get the seats and door cards reupholstered, but otherwise I am super happy with the car. The thing is stupid fast.
  15. sector5pro

    Me and Blue

    From the album: 1976 BMW 2002

    Had my wife take a photo while we were driving around town last summer.
  16. I moved to Georgia a few moths ago , and now that I have room to store a project car I purchased a Automatic 1975 BMW 2002 . It isn't in running , and isn't in the best shape , but it isn't in the worse either. From paint to rust bubbles , floor rust , not terrible but mostly in the floor corners , and the lower section of the trunk . Some dings and dents here and there. My brother and a friends told me congrats , and that it was a big mistake , i believe them but i'm still still going along with it . I'm new to BMW so there's still a lot of thing i don't know , and would appreciate any advises. I also included some photos so you guys can check out .
  17. hello all, I am planning to rebuild the engine in my 2002 that i just got. This will be my first engine rebuild so I'm not confident that the engine will be functional after i work on it hehe . I'm thinking about buying a 1974 tii engine from someone locally to swap out with the current m10. Do i need to do anything special for the switch? I know stock the tii uses the kugelfischer fuel injection instead of the carbs. (which is better)
  18. So I am almost done with an M20 swap and have a few loose ends to wrap up which I was hoping people here could give me a little clarification with. First up is the wiring for the E30 in tank fuel pump and the external fuel pump. In 6 into 2 they say that you ground the external fuel pump and run a line directly to the harness and connect it to the violet/red wire in the C101 connector. I did this and it did not run or get any voltage when I turned the car on. Am I misunderstanding and should I just run a line to some other positive that turns on when the car is on? The other question on fuel pumps is how do I connect the E30 in tank fuel pump, seeing as it has different connectors than the original 2002 pump? I didn't see anything about this in 6 into 2 and I haven't found any posts about it in my searches. photo below shows the E30 pump connectors and wires (red and blue circles) and the 2002 wires circled in orange. Next thing is these connectors between the ignition coil and oxygen sensor on the E30 harness. What do they connect to, or are they not necessary in the 2002? Next. What is this twist lock connector for? I assume that it connects to another part of the E30 harness that is not part of the installation into the 2002, but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything. I also am missing a couple lines for the vacuum system and wanted to clarify what's going on with that. On the back of the intake there are two nipples, one has a line that is connected to the fuel pressure regulator, and the other side didn't have anything connected to it when I get the motor. What am I supposed to connect that to? I have done multiple searches and mostly found versions of this part that only has the nipple on the right side to the fuel pressure regulator. Anybody know what's going on? and the last thing for now. The motor came with a few lines chopped up for some reason, and I was wondering if anyone knows the part number for the hose that connects to this outlet on the intake boot? Thank you so much for any input on this, as always it's much appreciated!
  19. Hi everyone, I'm working on wiring up the M20 harness in my '02 and had a question on the factory 2002 alternator wire. This is the red wire that is soldered along with 3 other wires in a ring terminal (which I'm assuming gets attached to B+). See pic. Since the M20 harness already has connections to the alternator, do I need the 2002 alternator wire? Or Does it needed to be spliced into the m20 harness? I have a C101 wired up to mate the 2 harnesses together. Yes, I've searched and read up on the required connections to get your car running but there's no mention of what to do about the 2002 alt wire. There's the blue voltgage regulator wire, but that's separate. TIA Chris
  20. Hi folks, I'd like some "friendly" advice on fuel lines here. I'm using the existing hard line under the drivers side in my '73 for the feed line and some nylon fuel line for the return. The nylon return line follows the same path as the original yellow fuel feed line. I'm now looking to connect the feed line that comes out from under the front drivers side rail to the fuel rail using fuel injection hose. What's the safest way to route this fuel injection hose? I'm concerned about kinking the hose and having it interfered with. As it looks right now it seems close to where the radiator is going to be and the alternator/belts. RIght now I have the fuel injection hose running from the fuel rail, behind the manifold along the firewall, along the drivers side fender to the hard line. See pics. Pic #1 - fuel injection hose to fuel rail - Pic #2 - fuel injection hose to hard line under driver's side frame rail Pic #3 - hard line under driver's side frame rail I could bend/flare additional hard line to limit the amount of fuel injection hose. I had also thought of running a new steel line down the passenger side since the fuel rail inlet is on that side of the car, but I didn't want to drill holes in the underside of the car for fuel clips. Decisions decisions... TIA -C
  21. hi, have just had a motor finished and the back trumpet of the 45mm dcoe hits the brake booster. What ways have you guys solved this? Different brake booster that fits? Can the original booster be shifted backwards? - there seems to be a big spacer off the firewall experiences of unboosted setups? Realise this is an e21 question, but thought someone may know
  22. Sooooo I bought an m42 with intentions of swapping it. After tearing it down cone to find out that it's not gonna worth it to rebuild. We have 3 known good m20s as backups for the spec e30 race car and had an idea. M20 swap? Awesome!! Don't want to cut trans tunnel though. So my question is will the g240 from the e30 318i bolt up to the m20 and what is done regarding the flywheel and shift linkage? I have searched and not found a definitive answer. Thanks for the help guys
  23. I have looked for the past several hour looking for a picture that is floating around the website that shows the stock 02 pump , an E30 325i pump, an E30 318is pump, and a Tii pump all side by side. Can anyone point me to the post that has the picture? I just seen it the other day and want to say it was in an M20 swap post but I haven't been able to source it. Thanks.
  24. I havent found any answers to this through the search: I am building an M20 swap with a 323i 5 speed gearbox. As it sits, the gear selector input shaft (that goes into the gearbox itself) sits further back than a normal M10 5 speed swap. In fact, the end of the selector shaft is right in the middle of the tunnel hole for the stock shifter location. This means I cannot shorten my shifter platform enough to put the shifter in the stock location unless I attach the shifter straight onto the input shaft and remove the pivot rod that normally links in-between altogether. Is it possible to attach the shifter straight onto the selector shaft and still shift gears? I do not want to move the shifter if I can get away with it, as firstly I'd have to build a new centre console and second, theres a big hole in my carpet that is impossible to fill in surreptitiously.... Thanks in advance
  25. I'm using a scirocco style rad with my m20 swap and I'm wondering what other folks have used for hoses. Seems the scirocco outlets are approximately 1.25" while the E30 water pump outlet is around 1.5". I'm thinking about piecing together universal parts from Jegs involving a couple reducers, straight and angled connectors and some straight hose. I'm wondering if there's a more elegant option here. Thanks

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