Jump to content

FunkyLaneO

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    962

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by FunkyLaneO

  1. FunkyLaneO
    you can use a regular socket to get the valve out by just sticking a pick in there from the top and knocking the retainers off but it is impossible (unless you are one of those ship in a bottle builders) to put it back together without some sort of cutaway, I never thought of an O2 sensor socket, that is a pretty good idea. I originally used a band saw and die grinder to make a spacer and a welder/fabricator buddy of mine saw it and felt sorry for me haha, he took a a scrap of pipe and clamped it in his Bridgeport machine and made a much prettier one in about 2 minutes.
  2. FunkyLaneO
    The ratcheting bar isn't too much of a problem as long as you center it on the valve but you need to use an adaptor of some kind on top of the valve spring, the walls of the cylinder head get in the way. I took a short section of steel pipe and made a window on either side so I could get a magnet in there to grab the retainers and it works pretty well, it is a little more work getting the retainers back on if you have clumsy fingers (as I do)
  3. FunkyLaneO
    Did you try rotating the dizzy while cranking? if you don't have a remote starter switch then you may need a friends help to turn the key. You could also be 180 degrees out if you are at top dead center on cylinder 1, if you are 180 out it will usually backfire (sometimes through the carb so I hope you have a fire extinguisher handy) Rotate the engine by hand and make sure the points gap closes during the compression stroke (when both valves are closed) If you have a vacuum leak it will usually start, it just runs like crap so that is not likely the problem just something you may encounter after you get it running.
  4. FunkyLaneO
    Sorry, brain hiccup, you are correct red coil does require a resistor. Not sure why I was thinking that it didn't. Old age I guess.
  5. FunkyLaneO
    Nothing else, the red coil I believe does not require a resistor so you can replace that entire bundle with a single wire from the fuse box (switched power, fuse 11 I think, whichever one you unplugged it from) to the positive terminal on the coil. If you were using one of the wires for an electric choke you will need to run a wire for that too as well as the fuel shutoff solenoid if you have one (can use the same wire as the choke if you have both).
  6. FunkyLaneO
    Whereabouts are you in San Diego? If you can't figure it out let me know, maybe a second set of eyes could help.
  7. FunkyLaneO
    If you have manually moved the distributor it could be far enough off to not run, try moving it a little in each direction while cranking the engine to see if it starts up, then move it and tune by ear to see if you can get it to idle, then bust out your timing light and time it correctly. Also set the idle screw on your carb to the baseline (like 1 1/2 - 2 turns out) to get it running, after the timing is set you can start to tune your carb, you may need to make some changes to the jets. Also make sure there are no vacuum leaks, your car will never run right with a vacuum leak. Here are some instructions on tuning a weber carb: http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm
  8. FunkyLaneO
    4228956 I've only typed it in about a thousand times at Realoem and Maximillian so it kinda gets etched in your brain.
  9. FunkyLaneO
    If it is a '74 or newer, there is a useful resistor wire in there. If you have not switched to a blue coil you may want to remove that wire from the bundle and use it to energize your coil. It is the bulky wire with clear insulation. At the very least it may be valuable to somebody else so don't throw it away.
  10. FunkyLaneO
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgHITc1OL-c
  11. FunkyLaneO
    The clutch and brakes use the same reservoir but are completely different systems, one will not affect the other unless one is leaking and draining the reservoir. So bad brake cylinders, calipers, or missing brake components should not affect your clutch unless they are allowing all our brake fluid to drain out (which is pretty apparent so you would know what the problem is at that point)
  12. FunkyLaneO
    Mike, You are thinking of the fuel return line on the later cars, the one that goes to the charcoal canister is the vent line and if you plug it your tank will no longer be vented, not a good thing. If you removed the bypass valve next to the carburetor you definitely want to cap that line as you will dump fuel all over the ground but the vent line needs to vent somewhere and it is not cool to vent directly to the atmosphere. The factory system was actually pretty good and you should leave it intact, it allows the vapor to condense in that little tank in the trunk and run back into the tank (less wasted gas to evaporation) and the vapors that do escape go through a charcoal filter that cleans it up some and then it vents through your engine burning up the rest. It is a pretty efficient system that has zero affect on performance so there is no real reason to eliminate it. HTH Lane
  13. FunkyLaneO
    haha "L" stands for "lectric"
  14. FunkyLaneO
    If you take two matching angled spacers and stack them properly they will become a straight spacer, just a thought if you think the commercially available spacers look nicer than pvc pipe. Also it would allow you to micro adjust the angle by rotating them slightly if you wanted to tweak the angle just a tiny amount.
  15. FunkyLaneO
    Defrost control board for a heat pump, definitely not 2002 related.
  16. FunkyLaneO
    I believe that connects to that awful buzzer, somebody disconnected it years ago I bet. It is connector 95 on the BMW wiring diagram for a 76. http://www.2002tii.org/diagrams/bmw2002-usa-1976.pdf The other half of that connector should be close to the steering column (if it is still there), the connection was not in the gauge cluster area, that wire should be on the other side of that metal.
  17. FunkyLaneO
    Marshall, telling somebody that it is somewhere in your build thread is like asking them to locate a needle in a haystack, haha. (that build thread is kinda big)
  18. FunkyLaneO
    We need a sub-forum to discuss how we get creative working on cars with our bulging and herniated discs, I have stacks of old 2x4's in varying sizes that I am constantly using as levers and pivots to pry and lift things. I have already had 2 surgeries on my L4/L5 L5/S1. The second one was because I was hit by a car riding my bike and landed squarely on my butt compressing my spine and herniating my disc, I now have no feeling in my left leg due to the nerve damage.
  19. FunkyLaneO
    So true! haha.
  20. FunkyLaneO
    Man! that was fun to watch! thanks for posting.
  21. FunkyLaneO
    La Jolla Independent (Bimmerdoc.com) Carl has a few parts cars on his lot so I bet he would have or know where to get whatever you need.
  22. FunkyLaneO
    +1 on this, start with your weekly ritual of sticking a pencil in your pedal bucket to see if it comes out wet.
  23. FunkyLaneO
    I believe it is different depending on which flywheel you have. do a search and know which flywheel you have, it will either be the 320 or longer 323 throwout bearing. The 215mm clutch can use the standard 320i bearing, if you have a 228mm clutch then you need the longer 323i bearing I am not sure these part #'s are current but this is what I have in my notes: 320i bearing: 21 51 7 521 471 323i bearing: 21 51 1 204 525 HTH Lane
  24. FunkyLaneO
    possibly an attempt to reduce noise on the radio?
  25. FunkyLaneO
    I would ride my bike, you are almost guaranteed a door ding in a Starbucks parking lot, and don't tell me it's too far because it is geographically impossible to be more than a couple hundred yards away from a Starbucks
×
×
  • Create New...