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FunkyLaneO

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Everything posted by FunkyLaneO

  1. FunkyLaneO
    it may be easiest if you remove the cluster, the single black wire plugged into the back of the cluster on the tach side is your signal wire, you can use a multimeter to test where it goes. Also, if you haven't already, check all of your fuses, the solution may be easier than you think.
  2. FunkyLaneO
    Also, if you are not in California, Desmog that car and you will eliminate alot of the wiring that is causing you grief.
  3. FunkyLaneO
    The wire is solid black and is not bundled with the blue sheathed wires, it should have a double wire connection on it. originally the wire went from your tach to the negative terminal on your coil, there it had a double wire going to a single spade connector, from there the other wire in pair went to your distributor, if you have pertronics that wire is unplugged and probably set aside somewhere as it is no longer needed, try to find that black wire and plug it into your negative coil terminal. if that wire is already plugged into your coil then check the back of the gauge and make sure teh single black wire is plugged in there as well. the tach is a pretty simple piece of equipment to troubleshoot, it has power, ground, and signal (the black wire) check each of those and if they are all present when the key is on then the gauge may be faulty.
  4. FunkyLaneO
    That looks like the correct spring, you do need it. If it has been replaced with one that is too stiff then you could find a lighter spring, it just needs to return the carb to idle when you let off the gas. If you replace it make sure there are no obstructions to the new spring that might cause it to hang up.
  5. FunkyLaneO
    I did.
  6. FunkyLaneO
    The cranking issue sounds like a bad ground connection from the battery, especially if a jump from another battery doesn't make a difference. A simple test is to use one of your jumper cables to help the connecton by clamping one end to your battery's negative terminal and the other end to your engine block, if it cranks like it should, check the connections or replace the ground strap if needed.
  7. FunkyLaneO
    Prospero's Garage sells an excellent one. http://www.colorwiringdiagrams.com/
  8. FunkyLaneO
    On mine there is a double black wire that goes the the negative terminal of the coil, cannot recall if there is a stripe on the wires but I don't think so.
  9. FunkyLaneO
    Sticking valve?
  10. FunkyLaneO
    That's good to know. The map we had linked to on the old site would put the marker right on your address and sometimes you could even see peoples cars on streetview if they were parked out front when the Google car went by.
  11. FunkyLaneO
    you need the E21 323 throwout bearing for the conversion, the 320 bearing will work but I believe is a little short so the clutch will feel a little off. Edit - I assumed you have a 228mm flywheel, if you have a 215mm then the 320 bearing is the correct one.
  12. FunkyLaneO
    I put in my general vicinity (community name) and it placed me in the middle of a trailer park (which isn't even in my community) haha. so I made it more general and now I am located in downtown San Diego. It's probably not a good idea to use your exact address because this could become a treasure map for vintage car thieves but knowing where people are posting from can be very helpful.
  13. FunkyLaneO
    Sure sounds like a vacuum leak, I would double check that.
  14. FunkyLaneO
    Those should work, SportRack is actually a company owned by Thule.
  15. FunkyLaneO
    The horn is coming on because that loose brown wire near your steering wheel is touching ground.
  16. FunkyLaneO
    Do your hazard lights work? alot of problems with turn signals are related to the hazard switch.
  17. FunkyLaneO
    I have the FIAMM Tourtoeter, it sounds like this: you will recognize this if you are a bicycle racing fan, took me forever to find and get shipped to the US.
  18. FunkyLaneO
    Is your trunk release triggered by a positive or ground wire? it is probably a positive triggered system so you would supply positive power to terminal 87, if it is a ground triggered system then you would connect 87 to ground. The trunk release is probably a fairly high draw so make sure you use an adequate gauge wire. The domelight supervision polarity is ground, connect it to a ground (any old ground) The domelight wire connection would go to the back of the door switch on the side leading to the domelight (after the switch)
  19. FunkyLaneO
    if all the other lights work then I would suspect the brake light switch. try unplugging it from the back if the booster and jumping those wires, then go check the brake lights, if they are on then you need to replace the switch.
  20. FunkyLaneO
    Find a working 4-speed and put new seals in it (if it even needs them), the parts to rebuild (if anything needs replacing) are incredibly expensive, especially since a moderately well cared for getrag will run forever, you can pick up used ones for $50-$75, trying to rebuild one will cost you as much as converting to a 5-speed.
  21. FunkyLaneO
    +1
  22. FunkyLaneO
    Get rid of it. It's not a good place for a ground and it is the wrong color. Red is for unswitched (constant) positive power. Brown is for ground on these cars (black can be ground on other cars but if you stick with brown there will be no confusion later)
  23. FunkyLaneO
    I always liked Riveria. http://www.dagsites.com/2002colors.htm
  24. FunkyLaneO
    The sender wire is probably shorted out to ground somewhere, try unplugging the wires from your gas tank sending unit and see if it still reads full, if it does then your gauge is receiving a 0 ohm ground signal from somewhere. A bad ground to the gauge will cause it to flutter or read low, not full. The gauge could also be bad, you can actually remove it from the cluster and test it independently with a power source, some alligator leads and a couple resistors (or a variable resistor that will work in the range of 0-75 ohms)
  25. FunkyLaneO
    Oh yeah, what Toby said. The old forum said where you were from and the new one doesnt. If you are in California and you have a 76 you can still change the carb to the 32/36 with the approved kit and probably get away with the pertronix but you cannot desmog it and you cannot swap out the distributor. If you are not in California you will want to replace the thermal reactor exhaust manifold with a tii (or any non thermal reactor) manifold when you desmog it, the rest of the job is just removing stuff.
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