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FunkyLaneO

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Everything posted by FunkyLaneO

  1. FunkyLaneO
    I would guess an exhaust leak if it sounds like the Autopia cars.
  2. FunkyLaneO
    Post a picture because your description isn't specific enough to give you a good answer, but the temp sensor is on the water neck near the front of the engine, the oil pressure sender is located next to the distributor. There is a third sensor for the emission system on some cars between cylinders 3 and 4 on the intake manifold, it your car has been desmogged it is no longer used. if this helps, great, if not then post a picture, these cars are pretty old and very few are owned by the original owners so anything could have been done by a PO, you could have a sender for an aftermarked gauge that was installed and then removed long ago.
  3. FunkyLaneO
    the early 1600 US signals were flat like a euro signal but worked in a US car, that may have been what you had. nevermind that, it looks like the PO modified the old ones because both the wires are black and those aren't original. try taking it apart and see what he did, maybe you can reuse the socket.
  4. FunkyLaneO
    The euro signals are configured differently than the US signals, they require modification to work with a US car. Do a forum search on "tap a light" (in quotes) and you will find a bunch of articles that explain what needs to be done, essentially you need to add another bulb for the parking light circuit.
  5. FunkyLaneO
    The 008 JFUD4 distributor was stock on the '74 manual US. it is listed a few places as only coming on the automatics but I have seen quite a few stock '74's and they all had that distributor. After I desmogged mine I ran it with the vac retard disconnected for awhile and it ran pretty well, it had a crazy amount of mechanical advance so you had to kind of tweak the timing after you set it.
  6. FunkyLaneO
    That is why it is recommended to occasionally replace all of the fuses, this style fuse will do that over time, also the exposed metal of the fuse can oxidize and change it's resistance and amperage.
  7. FunkyLaneO
    Easiest way to troubleshoot, unplug the plug in the back of the stereo and see if it still does it, if it does then make sure they got the ground from a good source and see where they stole the power from, like Mlytle said, most stereo installers will grab power from wherever they find it, I would seriously doubt they ran a separate circuit for it as they should have.
  8. FunkyLaneO
    When I see two cylinders next to each other with the same low compression I look at the head gasket first. Usually that means one cylinder is leaking into the other. Did you have the head checked for flatness and cracks before you put it back on?
  9. FunkyLaneO
    The wiring diagram you should be looking at is for the 73-76 model years, ignore the shape of the taillight, the last major revision to the wiring was for the 73 model year.
  10. FunkyLaneO
    If it is leaking back there also check the oil pressure sender, those can start to leak and are cheap to replace and check the valve cover gasket, make sure the surface of the head where the gasket mates is free of nicks, sometimes they get whacked when PO's that don't know how to use a valve spring compressor try to remove or replace the valves. If there are nicks they can be gently filed flat and a dab of rtv will seal them up (file away from the engine so that the filings don't fall into the engine). Also check the o-ring on the distributor.
  11. FunkyLaneO
    it is the shortest m6 bolt closest to the intake side of the engine, part #15 on CD's illustration.
  12. FunkyLaneO
    Also when you do remove the distributor housing, remember which bolt has the special sealing washer and make sure you put one on there when you reinstall it, otherwise it will drip oil back there. If you are sending the head out for the valve job make sure you send the top timing cover with it in case they shave the head, they need to be done together.
  13. FunkyLaneO
    It is easier to lift the head out of the engine compartment if you remove the distributor but it isn't necessary. You can leave it in if you like.
  14. FunkyLaneO
    The upgraded 320i alternator is internally regulated, if you have an external regulator it isn't being used so it shouldn't be the problem. I would replace the battery if the alternator tests out OK, the battery can test good on the part store equipment but still not take a charge, it needs a load test performed to confirm it is truly good.
  15. FunkyLaneO
    It is part of an evaporative emission system, the fumes from the gas tank are routed through a tank (that allows vapor to condense and drain back into the tank) then to a charcoal filter (that filters the fumes to an extent) then to the air cleaner (where the remaining fumes are sucked through the engine and burned up) The euro spec cars vented directly to the atmosphere (which wasn't very environmentally friendly)
  16. FunkyLaneO
    I have done that with valve train parts and other small parts (I usually use a new 1 gallon paint can with lid) and it works fine but the larger parts I do the same as Toby and just dunk them and bag them, squeeze as much air out as possible and seal them up, I do that with oil pumps after I clean and check tolerances (now that I have started hoarding them when I find them considering the price of a new one!)
  17. FunkyLaneO
    that is correct, the 72 had the turn signal on the right side, not until 74 did it move to the left, looks like a PO figured out a way to move it to the left on your car.
  18. FunkyLaneO
    Oil Eater or Simple Green, spray it on and rinse it off, or better yet, pressure wash it off. They have always worked for me and are safe to use on the paint.
  19. FunkyLaneO
    the green wire just plugs into the back of the cluster on the other side of the speedo, it is only about 8 inches long, if there is no power there then I would guess other things in your cluster do not work either. you would need to test the round plug and make sure there is power there (there is a schematic for it in the Haynes or of you don't have that I can send you one) if there is power there then the pod with your fuel gauge and temp gauge may have issues. I would follow the wire cluster from the tach back to the other side of the cluster and unplug it there and test for power at that connection (make sure key is in the run position, to see where it plugs in look at my previous picture), if there is no power then I would test the round plug for power, if there is power there then I would suspect the PC board on the gauge cluster pod. if that is the case I may have one if you need one.
  20. FunkyLaneO
    The green wire is positive power, the brown is ground and the black is signal (the white goes to the lights) Green always indicates switched power so turn your key to the on position and test for power, keep in mind that the round plug must be plugged in for this to work. The back of the tach is marked, there is a ground symbol for ground, a "+" for positive and the signal is in the middle. recap: Green = + (left) Brown = ground (right) black = signal (middle) I am not sure what your yellow wire is (it is not original), make sure to test everything and make sure it does what it is supposed to before putting the cluster back in, to test the power to the tach, connect your test light or multimeter to the brown and green wires and turn the key on, it should light up. Then test the signal wire to make sure you know where it exits in the engine compartment, it may have been replaced by that yellow wire in which case that would plug into the middle terminal instead of the black wire.
  21. FunkyLaneO
    Yeah, if you eliminate the smog stuff you run a single vacuum hose from the distributer to the base of the carb, if you keep the fuel pressure regulator (most people don't) then you would have a vacuum hose from there to the manifold as well. You will need to take the cluster out to access the back of the tach, it is pretty easy, you just need to reach behind it and find the two knobs and unscrew them, then unscrew the coupler on the speedo cable then just pull the cluster out. you may have to reach behind it and guide the bundle of wires through so it doesn't hang up. once you have it out you can just pull the big round plug off and on the other side of the cluster there should be a single black wire plugged into a spade, that is your tach signal wire. if it is not plugged it then find it and plug it in (it really only will fit one place) then plug the round plug back in and start the car, if the tach works then put it all back together, if not then it is time to do some trouneshooting. I am ataching a picture of the cluster for clarification, the other two pictures are what I promised, on teh coil you can see the white plug, that is the tach connection, in the other you can see where it used to plug into the points (I replaced my points with a Crane system), that is the double wire that leads to teh tach, it is bundled with the windshield washer wires.
  22. FunkyLaneO
    yup, that is smog equipment as well, if you desmog that will go away too. Do a search on desmog, I know there used to be quite a few posts with pictures of what needed to be removed. but yes the entire blue bundle and all the relays and timers and vacuum switches that are attached to it go away. These cars were designed for the european market and smog was added to cars being shipped to the US so it was kind of an afterthought and it all comes off pretty easily.
  23. FunkyLaneO
    Sounds like the yellow wire splices into your old tach wire, check the splice to make sure it is good. Any wire that goes into the blue sheathed bundle is part of your smog system (except the resistor wire that is clear in color that goes to the positive terminal of the coil) The wire that is sitting on your valve cover probably plugs into that sensor that is on the intake manifold (between cyl 3 and 4) that is part of the smog system.
  24. FunkyLaneO
    Where does that yellow wire go that is plugged into the negative side of our coil? does it splice into another wire? it does not appear to be original (it could be part of the 76's smog wiring), maybe a PO had an aftermarket tach installed at some point? Follow it to wherever it goes and report back, maybe take a picture of what it plugs into if you don't know what it is.
  25. FunkyLaneO
    My car has been desmogged so it looks nothing like yours, I will try to get a picture tonight anyway. To identify the wire, turn your multimeter to ohms and connect one lead to ground and one to the black wire that plugs into your tach, then prop the meter so that you can see it through the windshield and find the black wire in the engine compartment, touch this wire to ground and see it the needle on your multimeter moves, if it does it is the same wire, if it doesn't, keep looking.
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