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  1. Is the dif still available, and if so how much? don
  2. OK, I'll ask the inevitable question that many have probably asked. I live in the East Bay. Is there any one, outside of Pete's Gears in Hayward that can rebuild/repair this tranny for a reasonable cost within say 100 miles? Like maybe a real good garage mechanic, or regular tranny guy doing it on the side? Are parts still available on the non oem market, such as bearings and synchs? thanks, don 510-528-1390 donsweetpea@comcast.net
  3. Good straight across trade for my 4 bolt flange. thanks rcf72
  4. Need 3 bolt output flange for 320i 245 5 speed tranny. Fine spline. Can trade 4 bolt flange, or? Location: San Leandro, Ca. 94578
  5. Terrific feedback guys. Thanks. If there was any other way than actually installing to check synchs, I would jump on it. It's the diminishing space between the synch and gear that creates the grind I've learned. Andrew is right, and without running it, you have to measure that. Pete's Gears in Hayward gave me a primer on what to look for, and said he would charge $200 or so to do it. I may take him up on it. don
  6. Have '75 Inca with new tii spec rebuild, 292 cam, dcoe's, 3.91LSD, and much more. Have bought another 245 5-speed to replace one in my car. Want to open it up to inspect the synchs, and am looking for tool #23 1 000, or similar to pull bell housing off. On limited budget, but very good at mechanics. Read that you can see the synchs through the fill hole. Yes, you can. But that doesn't tell you if they still are grabbing and spaced within tolerance . Also read that you can turn the output shaft with heavy drill and shift through the gears to check synchs, but couldn't figure out a way to grab the shaft without damage. Tried tubing, but it slips(put oil in tranny first). Oil had been drained, so couldn't check for big chips. Also wondering if there's a gasket between the two halves, or if fine metal fit? Doesn't appear to be one. If there is a gasket, is it available, and what about the synch availability? Appreciate any input. thanks, don plante
  7. Josh. What size is it? How much does it weigh? What are the components on it? Can you send me some more close up shots of the gearing, brakes, etc? thanks, don donsweetpea@comcast.net
  8. Esty, How much w/trunk and ship to 94578? And how pay? don
  9. Mike, dead on. I was hoping that you would respond. Marshal caught the right 1 also. Oil pressure switch NO terminal, hot at Fahrt, was feeding the NC terminal, which should only be hot at full key turn from the starter solenoid(in my case I took that from a built-in test splice just below the fuse box). That was the current jump. Went over all that I added since last time on the road with a mutimeter. Appears shorted inside the switch. Disconnected the lead that fead NC from starter. Got full dash lights and gauges, and no starter spin. The luck here is that I didn't turn the key beyond Fahrt those three or four times. Would have introduced high voltage starter current into the lower voltage ignition terminal, effectively jumping them. So no explosions. Both great minds. Love this site. don
  10. Steel line is above Left rear axle, not right. Sorry. don
  11. Want elegant? Quiet? Safe? You can go to your local pick-n-pull, and find a '88-'90 325(almost any model). In tank pump is beneath the right rear seat, beneath panel. Has two sets of wires(a double and a triple). Cut the wires beneath the car, as you want them long(2' best). Mark the ground terminal(brown) on the pump(you'll see why later. REMOVE THE SENDER UNIT FIRST(four little nuts-8mm I think)! You won't get the pump out without doing this first, or you'll f--k up the sender unit. Then, carefully twist the flange to loosen it, and lift out the pump. This will take a little bit of angling to get the filter thru. DON'T LOOSE THE O-RING! Reusable. Expensive. Voila! Less than $30, with a warranty for 30 days. Test it at home, before you install. Just hook it up to a 12v source and ground it. Put in bucket of gas. If it runs, but no fluid comes out, you've reversed the leads. Don't forget to put a clamp on the hose to the out bucket/container. Now here's the caveat. The pump and carriage isn't as long as your non-tii sender unit(I assume you don't have a tii, or a tii tank installed). There's about 3/4" difference. That means that your fuel gauge will show empty with still quite a reserve. The tank will therefore have to be refilled more often. You will also need a regulator to lower the pressure for carbs. Pump puts out about 35-45lbs I believe, maybe more. Delivers more than enough(43 gals per hour I think) for 2 or 3 webers dcoe's. I used the steel line to the engine(comes out beneath the battery, beneath the frame rail just forward of the steering box). Inlet is above the right rear axle. Look for it. Should have a hole in the trunk just in front of the tank for the hose to go thru. Line runs to the front and above the diff. Then I used a Mallory regulator, with a return feed back to the tank via the poly line. The return is low pressure, as it's after the regulator set screw. Regardless wether you go this route, an electric fuel pump should have at least two protections. A relay before the pump, and a low oil pressure cut off switch at the rear of the head by the distributor. Tee off your idiot light unit. Chevy Vega('71-'75) oil pressure sensor. If you want to go this way, let me know. Can give you some more feedback. don
  12. My starter spins at Fahrt! I've been doing a lot of work to get reliable fuel to my doe's, but don't believe I fooled around with any of the ignition wires. But have installed electric fuel pump from "89 325i to feed my side drafts. Wired in an oil pressure switch, an impact rollover switch in the trunk, and a relay before the pump. The relay is fed from the oil pressure switch and a fused lead directly from the battery in the trunk. There were three wires from the sender unit in the 325I unit, and I left unconnected the wire that went to the low fuel indicator, as I don't think I need that in my '75. The pump ran when I hooked it up before the install, and expected the key to turn on my instrument panel, including the fuel gauge, when turned to Fahrt. Whoa starter spun! Maybe unrelated, but also replaced blown #7 fuse(parking and left rear light). 2nd time now. Checked the wires at ignition switch, and they are unchanged from last time out couple months ago. Could the switch itself be grounding out? If so, how would I check to confirm bad switch. Just replaced it new last year. Appreciate any feedback. thanks, don
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