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  1. Hi, everyone! I know that this subject is something many of the posts on this forums are about - but after searching, reading and using many hours collecting information, I now want your feedback on this specific build. My plan with this thread, and something I hope will help the 02 community, is also to collect the comments and remarks you give in the opening post, so future newbies like me can use it in the planning of their build. After owning my 1975 2002 for some years I now want to make some upgrades to the engine, after the old one seized last summer. At that time i had just recently upgraded the ignition, and done a complete rework of the suspension and brakes. In the continuation of that I want to build a engine corresponding to the current suspension setup - a hot street car, ready for sunny days on winding roads, and occasional track use. So far, my setup, both the engine and the suspension, is affected by trial and error. I have base my choices on information found on various forums, and my base knowledge has not always been as good as it should before making a decision. In short; Lacking the needed knowledge to find a good balance between the components. To your information my future plans are based on the setup Korman uses on their stage 2 engines. The engine parts I have as of today: - Bosch red coil: I know this coil is debated, and several would probably suggest to go for the blue coil in stead. That might be my choice as well if the recommendations in this thread favores it. - 1.8 ohm ballast resistor: Need to go over the circuit diagram again, as the ballaster gives me some issues. The ground connection might be wrong. - Tii distributor: Alternative, 123ignition w/ bluetooth when its available? This makes me wonder about a electronic ignition like the MSD-6A - is this, or similar, something is should consider either way? UPDATE: The 123ignition seems likely to be the solution I choose. Selling the Tii distributor. - 8mm spark plug wires: OK - Weber 45 DCOE: I know, these are big and might be to big for my build. Had I done the purchase today I would have bought the 40DCOE instead. Found them at a good price, and had to little patience at the time. What I hope to be able to do, is to choke them down and make them work. This is a budgeted build, and I would like to avoid the expense of buying new carburetors, if possible. - IE stage 2 headers: OK. Planned setup: - Forged pistons: 10.5:1 CR. Correct me if I'm way out on this! The fuel I use is 98 octane. UPDATE: Good reasonable argument for choosing 10.1:5 CR instead. What triggered me is the argument about wider tuning range. - Piston rods: Stock. - Camshaft: Schrick 292 deg UPDATE: More likely to choose the KM Cams 290. The reason being minimal changes in specs, at a much lower price. - Valve springs: KM Cams double springs. Local shop. - Valves: Stock. UPDATE: Going to stay stock. Price vs. reward. - Rocker arms: KM Cams steel rockers. Local shop. - Engine mounts: Heavy duty rubber. The urethane mounts makes the car shake like a mad washer. Picture of my car: What are your thoughts? Modification, 22.01.16: Editorial changes. Modification, 22.01.16: Added updates based on feedback
  2. Looking for any M10 engine in any condition. Primarily need head,block and oil pan but more complete the better. I am just looking to mock up an M10 in a project car so even if you have a cracked head or block laying around that would do. Needs to be within 100 mi of NYC.
  3. Hey engine gurus... I found a shop with these pistons and con-rods laying about. Would they work for a stroker motor build? Which crank should I look for?? Thanks in advance... y'all have a great day Ed Z
  4. Hi All, I'm in the market for a 2002 and the one I'm currently looking at seems promising. I would rather buy one with matching numbers, and the chassis/engine number on this one are close but not identical. Chassis: ***1026 Engine: ***7026 The first 3 digits are identical on both, but I replaced them with asterisks here for security concerns (it's not my car after all). Obviously the numbers are remarkably close, is this a normal naming convention for matching number cars or is this just a coincidence? Thanks for your time! Ben
  5. Okay so here is the situation. I am about to leave to serve an LDS mission in Winnipeg (Manitoba) Canada. YAY FOR CANADA! I leave in 10 days. So, my pair of 2002's (Pinkie: '73 Verona faded and Pumpkin: '72 Inka with 2 tone Alpina paint scheme) must be tucked away for the 2 years outside in a driveway. I am hoping to share my game plan for the best possible storage plans and hope to hear some feedback and tips that I havent already thought of. Thanks for your advice in advace! O==00==O P.S. (I would love to hear from anyone in Manitoba or Canada in general! message me if you like!) Pumpkin: THE GAMEPLAN: (for both cars) MECHANICAL: 1: change oil and filter as well as coolant and drain brake cylinder resavaur. (leak where master cylinder bolts to booster on the Inka and clutch slave on Pinkie). 2: Fog motor with fogging oil (not exact on that precdure yet) and replace plugs with anti-sieze on threads. 3: Disconnect fuel pump while running to let carb run dry then remove. and plug intake with rag (soaked in WD-40?). 4: Drain gas from tank. 5: Not sure what to do about exhaust... INTERIOR: 1: Full detail and vaccum 2: Remove rear seats and all mats. 3: Remove nice MOMO steering wheel. 4: Towels on dash and front seats? (plain white. no patterns etc.). EXTERIOR: 1: Treat rust on trunk, rear fenders, bottom of doors, and shock tower boxes: rust converter and/or naval jelly followed by rust protector? or primer? (any info on a good method or products would be appreciated). 2: Remove Zender lip. 3: Remove rear bumper. (front bumper already removed). 3: Wash well (possibly wax the Inka? *no clear coat*) (if so; reccomeded wax type/ brand anyone?) 4: Bolt on Steelies with no rubber sitting on a few wood boards (dont like the idea of it sitting on jackstands) 5: Throw car covers on (I have one BMW car cover) need to buy a 2nd: maybe a premium Autozone car cover? 6: assemble Harbor Freight tent/garage for the Inka. MY MAIN CONCERNS/QUESTIONS: 1: What is the best method to plug the intake manifold and exhaust? (I was told a rag soaked in WD-40) 2: best products to use to treat and slow the rust process: espically treating the shock tower boxes through the little access hole in the fender. (I was thinking using some type of aresol rust preventor with a little straw) 3: What is the best method to apply the rust stuff? (brush and maybe a little syringe?) 4.should I lay down a tarp or house carpet (available at Home Depot) for the cars to sit on? some rust products I found at Autozone: some pictures of the rust I must battle on the Pumpkin: Where the passanger mirror was mounted I plan to plug the holes somehow (plastic plugs)? Shock towers on both Cars: Pinkie:
  6. OK, I give up. Does anybody have a working link to the Shade Tree engine rebuild articles? They were posted as two PDF files with the various articles combined. All the links I can find are now broken.
  7. I ordered a new alternator for my 02 and, the other had a short in it or something and was all burnt and was burning all wired connected to it but it was still working. Anyway. Ordered a new one and installed it and it's putting out around 45v. I replaced the voltage regulator. No difference. Bad alternator? 2 bad regulators? I don't know. Also, the battery doesn't show any increase while the car is running. It sits just under 12v.
  8. Price:: 500 Location: : Indianapolis, IN SOLD - Nov 10, 2015 I was recently put into contact with a gentleman who was sorting out his late father’s estate and had some BMW parts that he needed to sell. Always curious, I took my truck for a visit and mostly came away with some used Guibos and two lonely 2 Liter M10s. I didn’t particularly need backup engines (or Guibos), but I agreed to buy them with the hopes that I would be able to find them better homes, put them in the right place slash do the right thing, sort of thing. I degreased each unit and have documented what I found below. I strongly prefer direct pickup in Indianapolis, Indiana (Crossroads of America, they say) and by direct pickup--you and your truck/trailer and your own hoist is ideal. If you do not have a hoist, I could make arrangements to rent one on your behalf. I would be willing to crate and ship these at buyer’s expense, but I’d rather not! Direct Pickup Deal: $500 for Both Engines (Must Take Both) PM or Reply Here, or email = mobiletradition a t g m a i l Unit 1 (Purposefully Orange) Block VIN: +2577854+ (1971 – 2.0 Liter) Head: 121 TI (1968) 0231188002 Tii Mechanical Advance Distributor 228mm Flywheel Fuel and Water Pumps, Water Divider $250 w/ Tii Distributor Based on the exterior cleanliness of the head, the Heavy Chevy paint treatment of the block, I’d say this engine was pieced together as a DIY rebuilt unit. Don’t let the current exterior razzle dazzle you---this engine was very oily, it appears to have abundantly leaked from every area typically designed to retain oil. (Timing cover, oil pan, etc.) I noticed the same light blue sealant was used on these components, and it didn’t do its job very well. Valve cover leaks were average. Our elders say the “121/121TI (early 2002 heads) have been the most popular with the performance and racer crowd, because of its smaller combustion chamber volume.” Source = http://www.bimmers.com/02/ This engine is a good candidate for a breakdown and rebuild, or to use the head for another project. The engine spins freely by hand, the oil is cleanish. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unit 2 (Naturally Orange) Block VIN: +2590797+ (1973 – 2.0 Liter) Head: E12 1973 Exhaust Manifold (port plugged) Single Barrel Intake Manifold 228mm Flywheel Vacuum Advance Distributor Fuel and Water Pumps, very clean Water divider, Starter $350 This engine, to my eyes, looks remarkably original and non-messed with. Experts may weigh in on the sealant patterns, etc., but this thing was very clean, only requiring a light degreasing. There are still a few patches of black block paint here and there. This engine turns over by hand, the oil is cleanish and I would be inclined to toss on some new pumps and hoses and see how it runs “as-is.” If you’re engineless, or looking for something to drop in whilst you build up your dream motor, this might be a good solution for you. If you have a 73 and you want a 73 motor to be as close as your VIN as possible, here you go. I actually have the matching 4 speed that was with this engine, it was also remarkably clean which suggests to me that it was pulled earlier in its life and squirreled away (Trans is free with pickup.)
  9. I've never noticed this before, but with no gasket, my valve cover has a slight rock front to back sitting on the top of the head. Can't see anything that would cause that. Any other experience?
  10. Ok, I searched this forum and could not find a definite answer...Can you put an e21 head on a 1981 320i 1.8 block? Anyone who has done this pleased advise. Thanks Al Taylor
  11. Currently my engine, transmission(automatic), torque converter, and flywheel are separate and I need to connect them all! My engine is put together but I need to connect it to the transmission! What do I need to oil while I am installing?? How do I know if I should resurface my flywheel?? I'm looking for advice on connecting them as I am really pretty lost with the Chilton manual constantly telling me to refer back to chapter 1. Thank you in advance!
  12. I started tearing apart my car in preparation for a race car build. Currently most of the interior is out as well as the engine and trans. Ill be updating this as i can get pictures. Most stuff has mild wear to it. Everything is up for offers. Big items require pickup and small stuff i can ship continental U.S. U.S. Bumper Front - sold U.S. Bumper Rear - sold 2 Stahl Performance headers (Nicer one is last ever 2002 header sold by Stahl) - nice sold Door Cards Rear Seat Front Seats with rails Radiator(Almost no fin damage) Turn Signals - sold Ambers Intake w/ Weber 30/32 Gas Cap Stalk Levers - sold Fuel overflow bottle - sold Coil (only installed never used) Hood hinges Interior door armrests - sold Rear cards Muffler (Manufacture unknown) Rear Side glass Getrag 4 speed Extra Gauge cluster Hella Fog Lights
  13. looking to buy a respectable 2 liter crank
  14. Hello all. Before I start I just want to say that this site and its members have been extremely helpful to my father and I. We greatly appreciate everything this site has helped us with. Last summer my father and I Bought a 1974 bmw 2002 tii with intentions to finish restoring it mechanically over the summer. Sadly after many problems we went able to finish. Now it is summer again. The car is running but not well. We have changed the oil. oil filter, plugs, plug wires, fuel pump, air filters, and cleaned the fuel system. At this point the car is idling high. We have tried messing with the tuna can for hours but the car is still idling high. We need help. We need someone who has experience restoring these engines to help us get it running right. If someone could come to our house and help us we would be happy to pay for your services. We live in the Bethesda Potomac area near seven locks elementary. Please let me know if you can help us.
  15. Hello all. Before I start I just want to say that this site and its members have been extremely helpful to my father and I. We greatly appreciate everything this site has helped us with. Last summer my father and I Bought a 1974 bmw 2002 tii with intentions to finish restoring it mechanically over the summer. Sadly after many problems we went able to finish. Now it is summer again. The car is running but not well. We have changed the oil. oil filter, plugs, plug wires, fuel pump, air filters, and cleaned the fuel system. At this point the car is idling high. We have tried messing with the tuna can for hours but the car is still idling high. We need help. We need someone who has experience restoring these engines to help us get it running right. If someone could come to our house and help us we would be happy to pay for your services. We live in the Bethesda Potomac area near seven locks elementary. Please let me know if you can help us.
  16. I have finally decided to pass on my S14. I just don't have the time to devote to the project now that I have 3 x Tii's and two kids (not sure which takes up more time...) Complete and crated up and ready to load onto your truck.
  17. Parting out two 2002s (1972 & 1975). Lots of parts for sale. Just looking to get rid of excess parts and clear space. Let me know what you need.
  18. A while back I saved an s14 block from the scrap heap. It has water jacket cracks in two places, and one was pretty gnarly..a PO had tried JB Weld with no success. but hey. Its an s14 block. Worth investigating. After looking a Locknstitch.com, and actual welding.. I stumbled onto Castaloy. I had seen the Alumaloy product over the years, but not a derivative for cast iron. There was little info on the internets, and I was timid, but I sprung for a few sticks, bought a small MAP torch, and went for it. I used the Dremel to clean up the cracks, and trench them a little. I was able to get the big one to flatten out almost all the way. Then I used a coarse wire wheel to clean the area, and then went for it. On the larger one, I took three go's at it to get it built up. Grinding in between. And I learned not to be shy with the heat, for good pooling. And In the end, I think its going to be good. Considering that the material is rated to well beyond the pressure and temps of a cooling system, this should hold! All in, torch and sticks, it cost 120$ and I have a several sticks left. Now hopefully the block checks out ok at the machine shop.
  19. So my engine is starting to really drink some oil. I'd say a quart every 500mi, blue smoke on deceleration, fouled black spark plugs, etc. I figure my valve guides are pretty worn out. I talked to my guy about rebuilding the engine - 292 cam, 38/38, 9.5:1 compression, shorty headers, etc. We figure she'd be up to 130 ponies. However, I would likely then need to upgrade the brakes and suspension which would add another $4k to the build. I don't exactly have $10k+ burning a hole in my pocket, when all my car does is burn some oil. I was thinking I could do a more economical rebuild, but the whole "while you're in there" is getting to me. The car is a toy and I probably spend 60% of the time carving country roads and 40% of the time driving with the girlfriend on trips. My biggest gripes with the car are 1) It burns oil and loves to stink, 2) It's brutal on the highway for long drives @4800 RPMs 3) She could probably use some paint and body work - but that's easily another $10k hole I could fall into. I know 38/38s don't really sit well on stock engines, and require the better compression and hotter cam. I suppose if I rebuild the engine stock(ish) I could forgo having to beef up the brakes and put that money towards a 5 speed instead and be happy with my sync-linked 32/36. Even if I did drop $10k on engine, suspension and brakes I would feel guilty that she has some rust spots on the windshield and the engine bay looks fugly. Curious to hear the joint wisdom of you all and what you might suggest.
  20. Anyone who has read a few of my threads knows that I'm pretty obsessed with manufacturing dates, and VIN's, and numerous other items that, frankly, have little to do with the fun of driving an '02. Nonetheless, some people must shoulder the burden of the boring stuff, and I'm happy to help carry that load. First, it's not yet clear to me whether every single '02 engine block has a clear, easy-to-analyze, casting date. But it sure appears so. The styles I've seen, and variations of its placement, probably vary with the age and style of the casting apparatus, or maybe even the subcontractor if '02 engine blocks were not cast by BMW itself. I haven't yet confirmed what the "EB" on most M10 blocks indicates, although I'm betting it represents the name of the foundry actually producing thusly-marked blocks (EDIT: Eisenwerk Bruehl, thanks to forum member saaron). What I certainly know is that I haven't yet seen enough samples of M10 blocks. But as I looked at a tii block on eBay, I was struck by the bare block's very clear date. Between and partially below the #1 and #2 expansion plugs on the right side of the block is "72" and, below it, in an oval frame "11D". This is clearly shown in the sixth of eight photos that accompanied the eBay listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/252478211765?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I'd bet some clever, technologically-savvy forum member could figure out a way to get that photo onto this forum, so the photo doesn't disappear with the listing. But such wizardry is far above my pay grade. NOTE: Photos added below thanks to hynrgee. END NOTE So...in the world of casting dates -- yes, I do this same craziness on my 1961 Ford F-350 truck -- "72" means 1972 and 11D means April 11 (letters frequently represent months, starting with A for January but skipping I). Thus, I would contend this block was cast on April 11, 1972. The block's engine number is 2761590, which my VIN cheat sheet tells me was likely a May 1972 car. So the block's casting date meshes nicely with the car's manufacturing date. Certainly there are forum members who have tidily-bare blocks we can analyze in a similar manner, so that perhaps we can figure out the limits of engine block casting dates, i.e., when you CANNOT decipher a casting date on an '02 block. This thread is the sad and inevitable result of sitting me in NYC, 579 miles from my '76 -- which is in North Carolina for its Big Re-Paint -- and 133 miles from my '73 -- which is being stored in Pennsylvania! I want you to feel my pain! ☺️ Thanks and regards, Steve Fortunately, hynrgee came to my rescue, so below are the relevant photos:
  21. Hello, I am new to the 2002 scene. Just got my self a 1971 base 2002 and would like to find a local 2002 club to race with in the area. Pacific raceways and what ever else. Also I need to know how to set up the car. What not to touch and what to go ahead and upgrade suspension, engine, body, rims and tires ect... It's a rust bucket right now but rinds and driver surprisingly really well
  22. want to get rid of the emissions control on my '75, want a better set of headers while i'm at it. used or not, doesn't matter. thanks!
  23. Hello everyone so the thing is I have put my 02 back on ther road after a full restoration and after one month/aprox. 2000km later there have been some issues that popped out. Despite engine had a full rebuild with all new bearings, been honed, new piston rings, new valve steam seals, im having a major issue with smoke coming out of exhaust, its blue so obviously its burning oil, but where? Most noticeable is when idling and when releasing a gas pedal (in that 2000km period he took 2 litres of oil).... Im running out of ideas where to start fixing that problem Some say use thicker oil (currently im running Castrol 10W-40 part synthetic), others says ignition/distributor have something to do with this...my major fear is that its actually something wrong inside the engine :/ And the other big problem is noise coming out of the engine after it comes to working temperature, valves has been set to 0.15mm clearance and the engine is running beautifully when its cold, but after a while it gets this noise ( trrrrrrr sound) only when Im on throttle. I heard M10 was known for being extremely sensitive about worn out rocker arms, and mine are still original. Would you guess this is the reason for noise or there might be something else?? I appreciate all the help thanks
  24. Looking for a good condition M10 and 4 speed in the North East/Mid Atlantic. I'm located in Rochester NY, so closer is better, but I'm on the road a decent amount so I'm willing to travel to pick one up.
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