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  1. My experience is if the piston was cracked or a ring land busted then it would likely be smoking like crazy. Was it blowing smoke when it started running rough? Like was said before, that damage to the piston could be old and not really a problem, I have taken apart an engine where a spark plug electrode had broken off and bounced around inside and left little dings all over the top of the piston and the head but it didn't happen while I owned the car and I had been running it for tens of thousands of miles with no issue. Do a compression or leakdown check, if it looks decent you can and put a new plug in and see how it runs.
  2. If you still suspect the relay, test it by applying power and ground to the 85 and 86 terminals (they are usually labeled and it doesn't matter which is ground and which is power) it will click if it works. If it is indeed dead let me know, I will send you one.
  3. That looks like a standard relay from the era, I usually grab a handful of them from the Pick-n-Pull whenever I see an E21 there. Pull it out an look to make sure but you should be able to use any generic automotive relay in that socket.
  4. It looks like you may have the older smog bracket bolted on a newer motor in which case nothing goes in that hole. If oil is pouring out of that hole then you are missing your dipstick tube (but you aren't because I can see the later style dipstick and you can't have both without some creative drilling), either way no bolt goes in there and if you aren't running the smog pump then you can remove it altogether.
  5. Hi Lane, I saw one of your post where you explained using three door lock relays so one click unlocks driver side door and 2 clicks unlocks passenger side. Just wanted to know where in the diagram can I wire the door lock switch where it can lock and unlock both doors? My universal door lock switch has three wires (Ground, Unlock, Lock) Thank you in advance. 

    door lock relay.jpg

    1. Show previous comments  6 more
    2. FunkyLaneO


      I have some diodes that will work, pm me your address and I will assemble them with leads and send them to you.  installation is easy.

    3. khizace


      Thanks again I can buy the diodes dont want you to pay for the shipping. I think the part number is IN4001. Since I do not have the soldering iron, can I crimp them to 14 awg wire and put heat shrink over? Also, would cutting the diode wires to size effect anything? 

    4. khizace


      I cannot pm you since Im a new member. Is there a way you can pm me instead so I can reply back?

  6. Wow Toby, you look a lot younger than I pictured you.
  7. The power to your coil is not fused and it is a resistor wire so that is not the best place to pick up power, the voltage will be low at your pump. I would suggest you find the green/white wire with an open connector below your dash and use that, that is the one that was used for the tii electric fuel pump, that way it will even list the correct fuse on the sticker under you hood and in the owners manual..
  8. Yup, that was always my understanding too. The "every rotor is warped just enough to push them back" story gets tossed around way too much.
  9. You can get an inertia switch for next to nothing at any pick-and-pull that has Fords, they can be found at the base of the passenger side A pillar on any F series truck or Expedition (as well as other models but since I got mine from an F-150 I know where they are on that model).
  10. Not much in Tehachapi, my father is a major train enthusiast and so we used to camp there in a friends RV when I was a kid, unfortunately Danco is pretty much correct from what I remember except I think they are meth heads as opposed to crackheads and will steal anything not bolted down (actually they will probably steal that too). There may be nicer areas of Tehachapi that I have not seen, I am definitely no expert but hopefully you have visited the area before you take the plunge.
  11. I have been getting wire from https://4rcustomswire.com/ they have all the striped colors in any length with free shipping.
  12. ShadeTreeArticles1.pdfShadeTreeArticles2.pdf At some point somebody uploaded them because I ended up with copies. Here ya go!
  13. Is there any in and out play in the input shaft? if there is more than the tiniest amount then the rotating weight is likely working its way forward and contacting that aluminum cup that the needle is attached to, every time it touches it will bounce forward quite a bit. The pictures are not very clear so I cannot tell what the issue is but that would be my first guess, if that is the problem you can take a wooden dowel and use it as a punch and gently tap it down, do not deform the pinhole on the shaft (that is why I use a wooden dowel and not something metal) but don't tap it so much that it is tight, you want just the slightest fore to aft play when you are done. If the input hole is rounded out then I would think you would need to find another speedo for parts or a complete replacement, I have seen quite a few speedometers and never seen one rounded out but I guess it is possible.
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