Jump to content

FunkyLaneO

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    962

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by FunkyLaneO

  1. FunkyLaneO
    Part of the emissions system, not needed, can be tossed in neighbors pool if desired.
  2. FunkyLaneO
    Apparently the design is good, why it was designed that way I do not know but I have never seen one fail or go out of alignment due to bending or twisting.
  3. FunkyLaneO
    That car looks like my cars twin, except mine's a '74 and no smog so I bet mine looks a little different under the hood. Sweet ride!
  4. FunkyLaneO
    I have heard the emissions version referred to as a time switch too but never seen it officially called that anywhere, that is why I prefaced it with "I believe it is called" but what you have appears to be emissions junk, your car does not appear to be a tii so it obviously is not the tii flavor of this contraption.
  5. FunkyLaneO
    Relay and (I believe it is called) time switch, both part of emission system. Send them straight to the neighbors pool.
  6. FunkyLaneO
    vacuum switch for emissions system, you can chuck it in the neighbors pool.
  7. FunkyLaneO
    Where are you located Jeff? I am sure there is somebody on this board that is near you that would let you take a look at their car, maybe even let you do some testing of new seal designs with their car.
  8. FunkyLaneO
    The big issues I had with the door seals is that they are: A. Too stiff! you really have to slam the door to get it shut all the way, it does get a bit better over time but only a tiny bit, softer seals would be much better. B. The seal does not fill the gap on the leading edge of the window frame which causes a great deal of wind noise, the BMW seals I removed did fill that gap and the URO's have a different profile and while they do seal the window from water intrusion they are incredibly noisier than my previous seals. Unfortunately I did not take pictures of my old seals but I do still have them if you would like pictures of them off of the car (they are 40 years old) PM me if you do and I will post them up.
  9. FunkyLaneO
    If you are running a blue coil then you can (and should) replace the resistor wire with a regular piece of wire, preferably green. It has been awhile but I do remember having to unwrap some tape right by the fusebox to separate the smog harness from the car, it was only a couple inches worth as I recall. On the positive side of the coil there are a pair of wires, one is the resistor wire and one is a bypass wire for when you are cranking the starter, both will go away if you replace with a blue coil and single wire, you don't really need the bypass circuit with the resistor wire especially in a warm climate such as ours so if you keep the old coil you can just use the resistor wire and remove the other one, especially if you hook it up incorrectly on the starter side your resistor wire will catch on fire as soon as you turn the car on, I have seen it happen. I don't remember a wire in the bundle that went to the negative side but what is supposed to be there is one wire from your points, and one that goes to your tach, both are usually black. HTH
  10. FunkyLaneO
    Patina = neglect that somehow adds value
  11. FunkyLaneO
    The tractor sound is probably because your timing is way off (pinging), make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks and that your timing is set correctly. Make sure that the vacuum advance on your distributor is connected and working, there are two connections on your distributor and if the emissions equipment has been removed the only the advance should be connected, not the retard port. This is just a guess as I am only imagining what a tractor sounds like, we don't see many tractors in San Diego ;-)
  12. FunkyLaneO
    The horn ring fits into a slot in both sides of the steering surround, if you don't have it seated in there just right it will do all sorts of weird things. Double check that.
  13. FunkyLaneO
    It is a pretty simple circuit, check to make sure you have ground at the steering wheel and try touching a ground to the horn ring surface to bypass the horn switch. if it honks then the horn switch needs to be looked at. I believe the wire is purple/yellow (on later cars maybe yours too) it goes through a couple connectors before it gets to the relay, you may want to trace the wire and check those. The relay should be up at the front drivers side in the engine compartment, find the one with the purple/yellow wire and check that one, you can put your hand on it and have somebody push the horn and feel for a click, if it clicks then it is probably good and I would take a look at the horn itself.
  14. FunkyLaneO
    I used a round toothpick to plug it, if you break it at the right length it will bottom out in the hole and hold itself in place. The benefit is that is is removable as opposed to epoxy or some other permanent means.
  15. FunkyLaneO
    Do you have the phenolic spacer under the carb? is your timing set correctly? Possibly the reason it is hard to start after sitting when hot is all the fuel in the float bowl is boiling out so you have to crank awhile to fill it back up. Is there a gas smell after you park it (you might only notice it if you park in a garage), if so you may want to check that, feel the carb and see if it is hot after you stop the car. I had that problem and the spacer corrected it.
  16. FunkyLaneO
    ... and if you take in your head don't forget to bring the timing cover with it.
  17. FunkyLaneO
    Just tighten it down, if you get the cap you won't need to take the adapter off. the thread is slightly different than pipe thread but so slight that tightening it causes the softer brass on the cap to conform to the steel thread. if you remove the EGR adapter from the manifold you will not find a plug with the right thread, it is an oddball (well, to be fair, I couldn't find one but you may be able to). I can't remember the thread size (I think 1/2") but it tightens down with a 7/8 wrench. scroll down in this topic to see a picture of the cap http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/150730-quick-question/
  18. FunkyLaneO
    A brass cap from the Home Depot plumbing section is a better solution than the coin trick. Pennies "wear out", not sure about dimes.
  19. FunkyLaneO
    yup, you could do that. I would clean up the barrel of the socket and make a ground wire. Be careful soldering directly to the bulb too much heat will burn it up so be quick. This will prevent you from changing a bulb without doing some soldering so you may want to make up an extra or two to carry along with you, determine which filament is which and use different color wires so you can tell the parking circuit from the flasher circuit (FYI/ the higher wattage filament is for your turn signal).
  20. FunkyLaneO
    it appears as though somebody has already done some modification to that signal, there should be a single filament bulb in there and it appears that a dual filament has been inserted and the socket modified. You may be able to use it as is or revert it back to how i was originally, that little tab under the spring should contact the center of the single filament bulb, it has been bent back and is really rusty looking so it will probably take alot of work to restore it back to how it should be. You may need to get creative with that one.
  21. FunkyLaneO
    Bridging 1 to 2 on the diag plug will allow the car to start but it will energize the entire switched circuit and doing that through such a small gauge wire would be ill advised, if you tried to turn on the headlights it would probably overload and burn up.
  22. FunkyLaneO
    Super simple, all you need is a piece of wire long enough to go from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive terminal on the coil. Then all you have to do is crank the starter and you can do that with a paper clip using the diagnostic plug (make sure it is in neutral). but you may find out that when you turn the wheel more than a quarter turn the wheel will lock, then you will be screwed. I carry a piece of wire with ends crimped on it for just this reason, if your electrical system is acting up you can bypass it all with one piece of wire and at least get home. bridge pins 1 and 7 to crank the starter.
  23. FunkyLaneO
    Pedal box rebuild itself is pretty easy, the only difficult part is getting the box out (especially if you have the molded one piece carpet, you have to do some "submarining" under it) Blunt had a kit for around $50 that had all the parts you need for a complete refresh. Removing and replacing the pedal box isn't horribly difficult but it is a little time consuming so set a fair amount of time aside for the job, you will want to repaint it while it is out because there will be some rust (there always is when you are in such close proximity to brake fluid) so paint drying time should be added as well, use POR-15 to paint it and you should not have to paint it ever again.
  24. FunkyLaneO
    The click is probably in your pedal box, mine has done that on occasion (usually the clutch with me) not a big deal, when I rebuilt my pedal box it went away but there didn't appear to be anything wearing funny because of it when I had the pedal box apart so I would not be too concerned.
  25. FunkyLaneO
    Replace the soft lines with stainless steel braid lines, I think you can get them from Ireland Engineering and other places, you could see if Blunt has them even though they are not OEM. For the MC check with Blunt or Autohausaz, both should have better prices that what you posted earlier. Any leaking you have upstream of the Master Cylinder should not affect your braking (except for maybe running out of fluid or sucking in air) so that leaking is not likely your problem but you should fix it anyway. The swapping of the MC and the lines is pretty straightforward, just replace them, the important thing is the bleeding of the system, if you have a pressurized brake bleeder that is the best way to do it, do a search on brake bleeding and there should be a bunch of info. There is a special order for bleeding the front calipers (they have 3 bleeders each and need to be done in sequence) but that is the only tricky thing.
×
×
  • Create New...