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fwardell

Solex
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About fwardell

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  1. Thanks, it's tough having to sell it.
  2. Are you here in Charlotte? I'll be around Saturday afternoon and all day Sunday. Just give a call (704-236-5200) and we'll work out a time. It probably needs a bath.
  3. Tempting, but it's not what I'm looking for; however, a friend of mine is looking for a 356. How can he get in touch with you?
  4. 1976 BMW 2002 in Inka with 99,400+ miles. Terrific condition mechanically and cosmetically both inside and out. Garaged daily driver. California car with NO RUST! Paint almost perfect. Windows and exterior trim in very good shape. Small repaired chip in the windshield. Dash is crack-free. Seats just fine. Nice carpet with orange/black Coco Mats. In trunk, too. Working Tii clock! Leather-covered 320i sport steering wheel. Vintage Becker stereo radio with two stealth door speakers and two rear deck speakers. Headliner and visors very nice. Rear window defroster works only partially. Frigi-King air conditioner blows cold. Heating and defrost systems good. Includes owner’s manual, Chilton Repair Manual, BMW shop manuals, and Weber carb manual. Tires: almost new Michelin Defenders on great-looking original alloy wheels. Engine with Weber 32/36 manual choke carburetor, mechanical distributor, and pointless ignition pulls strongly. It does not smoke, burn oil, or have any leaks. K&N air filter. 4-speed tranny shifts crisply and solidly. Steering is good. Bilstein shocks. Battery in trunk for great weight distribution. Location: Charlotte NC 704-236-5200 [email protected] Asking $19,250
  5. Hey, '76Mintgrun'02, I'd like a set for my '76 Inka. How much? I'm in Charlotte NC. I think you're on to something!
  6. Well, I hesitate to say it but I will. Go back to your 32/36. I tried two new 38/38 Webers but never could get things just right. Had flooding problems, shaky idle, and less than steady performance off the start. Fiddled around for several months and just put the 32/36 back on. It just runs so well in all aspects. Now, don't get me wrong, it's possible to get that 38/38 running well, and it does have a nice acceleration boost, but . . . well , you're experiencing it! Hope you get it right!
  7. Jireland is correct. Use #1 plug wire, not #4. You may need to mark with white or orange paint the flywheel ball at top dead center or 32 degrees advance for timing light to give proper results.
  8. I'm a bit late to the party, but have had an Ireland Engineering mechanical advance dizzy ($180) on my '76 2002 for almost a year. It has a Pertonix-like device in place of points and works wonderfully. Seems to be more spunky than before.
  9. Looks like you got a solution; however, I'm with roadhog0. Simply rotate the bracket 180 degrees and adjust to needs. Can provide photo is you like.
  10. Oh boy! Driving my '76 Inka 2002 along the freeway with my 15 year old (new driver, car guy) grandson as passenger at 60-ish and tried to make an exit ramp too late. And it was a very short radius ramp. Began the turn and there was no going back. Braked a bit and entered a power slide as I turned. Lots of tire noise. Realized there was a concrete divider curb I didn't want to hit (read: flip over!), so turned in a bit more. Screamed around the ramp and came to a stop at the top at the traffic light. Looked at grandson - white as a sheet. "Trey," I said, "that's a lesson in how to NOT drive. But as you saw it was a controlled maneuver you will need to learn." "Well, G-Dad, when can I start?" LOL! Thankfully I was driving my '02 . . .
  11. Bought an Ireland mechanical distributor back in November for my 1976 2002 desmogged but mostly stock (Weber 38/38 manual choke) in November for $180 (good price!), and it has performed nicely until a couple of days ago. Engine just died and wouldn't restart. Had it towed home and begun my investigation. Fuel system working properly. Measured 12 volts at coil and top of distributor. Fuses all good. Distributor rotor turning properly. Rotor and cap looked good. Timing good. Battery strong. But, aha, no spark at the plugs. Figured it must be internal to dizzy. A call to Ireland revealed that the ignitor (similar to Pertronix, which replaces points/condenser) was probably bad. New complimentary ignitor on the way from Ireland. Will install this weekend and report back. Ireland advised to not leave ignition on unless engine running, which has always been my practice. Anyone else have this happen?
  12. Great posts! I get great satisfaction in adjusting my valves and in the always good results. It sure make a difference in the way my little engine purrs! Or growls!
  13. Wow, lots of diverse thoughts - thanks! I do have the phenolic spacer, and the carb itself doesn't seem to get all that warm. And I have enlarged the intake holes to match the carb's. Have also checked and rechecked floats. I do see a gas puddle below the carb down in the intake manifold, so it appears to be flooding while sitting. The top one of the two fuel connections on the carb has an arrow pointing out, and it has a tiny hole (flow restrictor?), so by adding a fuel return line there theoretically would allow pressure in the float chamber to lessen. I'll try holding down the accelerator pedal while starting next. Otherwise, the 38/38 works real well, giving spunky acceleration.
  14. 1) have trouble with starting when hot and sitting off for 30+ minutes, and/or 2) have the upper fuel connection aligned to the gas tank return line or have it blocked off? Mine is a manual choke model. Starts and runs great but is slow starting with puff of light gray smoke and smell of gasoline when started after sitting 30+ minutes when hot. Also, runs a bit rough for several seconds. It seems like flooding. I thought the above flooding problem might be due to pressure in the float chamber when sitting turned off, so I have run a fuel hose from the top of the two carb fuel barbs to the fuel return line to the tank.
  15. Arrrgh! I go through this decision every time I look at the front my '76 Inka! So far, I have kept it Inka behind the grill. And I'm happy with it! I think . . .


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