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bianchini

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  1. @magnus not sure if you found a roundie, but I ran across one in burlingame while picking up a rear diff last weekend. it is at autohaus exec (https://www.yelp.com/biz/autohaus-exec909-burlingame). Its a 72 with flares, red, fully built. The guy selling it there is named Paul. I think he said he was gonna pull the motor and trans and sell the rest, but dont take my word as exact for that detail. I don't have any ties to this sale. just got to talking with the guy and he was showing me all his projects and cars for sale.
  2. Hi all, I recently picked up an e30 LSD differential and I cannot find any details on what the "P" stamping is on the side of my diff. Here is an example of the"P" in the exact same place on another BMW diff. Any ideas? Insight? Thanks!
  3. If I didn't do my s2000 swap, i would have done the K24. Also, doing a motor that hasn't been done more than 20 times is going to increase your cost as you will run into things people haven't come across before and you will have to figure out a fix on your own. Which equals time and money... so you need to seriously consider that.
  4. aren't the original cage nuts/OEM nuts NLA? If someone knows where to find them... i would be very interested....
  5. yeah. it's so nice on the edge right there. I might just end up making a bracket to rotate it 90 degrees so it isn't so much of a reach. I liked the idea of a battery cutoff switch as it seemed like an easier option to cut the power. A simple one like this: https://www.quickcar.com/master-disconnect-switch-with-black-plate-55-010/
  6. thanks. It’s easy-ish to reach, but I find it becoming a hassle. When I post a photo when I get home you will see what I mean. photo coming in a couple hours.
  7. For all the skilled electricians, I need some help with the "correct" configuration for my 74... Current setup: I have my battery in the trunk and am currently running a circuit breaker right after the battery on the positive side and then continuing to the front to power everything. Future setup: I was thinking about putting in a Battery cutoff switch to make life easier as I work on electronics and fix things. Should I do this or just use the circuit breaker? If I do put a switch in, would it go Battery -> switch-> breaker-> wire to the rest of the car ? I'd like to keep the circuit breaker just to be safe (doesn't hurt right?) Thanks y'all!
  8. I'll be in LG!!! S2000 swapped coming in hot! sorry in advance for the exhaust db.....
  9. Looking for daily driver quality side view mirror for my 74. OR just the base. Had to drill out the setting screw and now my current mirror base is useless. Can pickup locally if possible (bay area, CA) Thanks!
  10. +3 to Petes. They did my getrag 240 and had 0 issues.
  11. @AustrianVespaGuy @mike figured out the headlights: the white and purple wire going from passenger over to driver side was cut/ severed! got that back together and headlights back to working condition. now onto the turn signals and making sure both filaments work as designed. Thanks for the help.
  12. Thanks Everyone! So I figured out the running lights issue.... an accidentally cut wire... I am dumb. For the high beam and low beam, still trying to figure that out. its odd because I've swapped the bulbs to each side and the bulbs are not the issue. the drivers high beam works and the passenger low beam does shut off when high beams turned on. just the high beam does not turn on.... @AustrianVespaGuy Also, what bulbs do the turn signals use? I noticed that I have a dual filament bulb, but only one is in use for running lights and turn signals. Ex:
  13. UPDATE: figured out the running light issue (detail below). Figured out the headlight issue: severed wire within the wires/electrical harness going from drivers side over to passenger headlight. so simple, yet stumped me for a fews days! So I was working on the car and I was testing some electrical stuff and I have come to find out that my passenger high beam shuts OFF when I pull or leave the high beams on AND my passenger side running light at the front does not turn on. the turn signal works, but the running portion does not turn on. Here is what I have tested so far: - All bulbs work on both sides - swapped sides and no issues - all fuses are working- tried swapping those around too and no issues - tried messing with the 3 relays at the front - pic attached - tried testing if amps/volts are getting to the passenger side, but not getting any reading there... the confusion I am having is 1- why just the passenger side? 2- what is the very front relay with the "L" on it for? I tried swapping them all around in different combos and have found the "reg" is for regular beams "HI" is for high beams (both push and pull on the stalk) no idea what the "L" does..... H I'm no electrician, so please explain like I am 5 yrs old!
  14. Hey Tommy, maybe we can chat here. I tried to PM you too, but the message box is no where to be found.

     

    I'll try to dig up the finer details of the drive shaft, but to cliff note it: 

     

    I took the pieces to southbay driveline here in CA and told them the specs and length and they built it. its 1 piece with a slip yoke end/style. I'll snap a pic tonight when I get home. 

     

    Speed driven... so far 110MPH. that was right after i got the engine tuned and I think they took the MPH up to ~130 on the dyno (hub dyno. not wheel dyno). 

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. bianchini

      bianchini

      my diff is out of an e30 with 4.10 ratio. Since the s2000 is the same ratio for its diff, thats what I went with. I wish I could find a 4.10 e30 LSD, but i think those are rare. 

       

      I havent had any vibration issues yet, but I will definitely keep an eye on it. I thought length of driveshaft also was a factor?

    3. Tommy

      Tommy

      At 200km/h that would be about 7400rpm at the shaft according to quick calculation. For me it would be about the same since I have 4.44 diff but higher 17" wheel. I made the calculation with 205/50/15 tire diameter.

       

      Yes, length and pipe diameter are the factors. When I tried one piece shaft the vibration was so bad that I almost lost vision when hit something like 160km/h. Shaft would have blown in pieces if I didn't slow down.

       

      I would be glad to see pictures of your setup if it's not too much trouble.

       

       

    4. bianchini

      bianchini

      sounds good. I'll get you tire specs and driveshaft photos this weekend. possibly a video at different RPMs and speed. 

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