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About bianchini

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  1. I'll be in LG!!! S2000 swapped coming in hot! sorry in advance for the exhaust db.....
  2. Looking for daily driver quality side view mirror for my 74. OR just the base. Had to drill out the setting screw and now my current mirror base is useless. Can pickup locally if possible (bay area, CA) Thanks!
  3. +3 to Petes. They did my getrag 240 and had 0 issues.
  4. @AustrianVespaGuy @mike figured out the headlights: the white and purple wire going from passenger over to driver side was cut/ severed! got that back together and headlights back to working condition. now onto the turn signals and making sure both filaments work as designed. Thanks for the help.
  5. Thanks Everyone! So I figured out the running lights issue.... an accidentally cut wire... I am dumb. For the high beam and low beam, still trying to figure that out. its odd because I've swapped the bulbs to each side and the bulbs are not the issue. the drivers high beam works and the passenger low beam does shut off when high beams turned on. just the high beam does not turn on.... @AustrianVespaGuy Also, what bulbs do the turn signals use? I noticed that I have a dual filament bulb, but only one is in use for running lights and turn signals. Ex:
  6. UPDATE: figured out the running light issue (detail below). Figured out the headlight issue: severed wire within the wires/electrical harness going from drivers side over to passenger headlight. so simple, yet stumped me for a fews days! So I was working on the car and I was testing some electrical stuff and I have come to find out that my passenger high beam shuts OFF when I pull or leave the high beams on AND my passenger side running light at the front does not turn on. the turn signal works, but the running portion does not turn on. Here is what I have tested so far: - All bulbs work on both sides - swapped sides and no issues - all fuses are working- tried swapping those around too and no issues - tried messing with the 3 relays at the front - pic attached - tried testing if amps/volts are getting to the passenger side, but not getting any reading there... the confusion I am having is 1- why just the passenger side? 2- what is the very front relay with the "L" on it for? I tried swapping them all around in different combos and have found the "reg" is for regular beams "HI" is for high beams (both push and pull on the stalk) no idea what the "L" does..... H I'm no electrician, so please explain like I am 5 yrs old!
  7. Hey Tommy, maybe we can chat here. I tried to PM you too, but the message box is no where to be found.


    I'll try to dig up the finer details of the drive shaft, but to cliff note it: 


    I took the pieces to southbay driveline here in CA and told them the specs and length and they built it. its 1 piece with a slip yoke end/style. I'll snap a pic tonight when I get home. 


    Speed driven... so far 110MPH. that was right after i got the engine tuned and I think they took the MPH up to ~130 on the dyno (hub dyno. not wheel dyno). 

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. bianchini


      my diff is out of an e30 with 4.10 ratio. Since the s2000 is the same ratio for its diff, thats what I went with. I wish I could find a 4.10 e30 LSD, but i think those are rare. 


      I havent had any vibration issues yet, but I will definitely keep an eye on it. I thought length of driveshaft also was a factor?

    3. Tommy


      At 200km/h that would be about 7400rpm at the shaft according to quick calculation. For me it would be about the same since I have 4.44 diff but higher 17" wheel. I made the calculation with 205/50/15 tire diameter.


      Yes, length and pipe diameter are the factors. When I tried one piece shaft the vibration was so bad that I almost lost vision when hit something like 160km/h. Shaft would have blown in pieces if I didn't slow down.


      I would be glad to see pictures of your setup if it's not too much trouble.



    4. bianchini


      sounds good. I'll get you tire specs and driveshaft photos this weekend. possibly a video at different RPMs and speed. 

  8. I'm at 195 to the wheels, so ~235-240 crank. This is on a 100% stock non turbo AP1. I'm debating going turbo, but its already scary enough with my current setup. I like the CA-tuned rear sub, but once I got it in and got to nit picking it, I am definitely going to drop it and do different camber/caster adjusters and fix the top of the diff holder. they did all the leg work to make it a purchasable item, so I appreciate that. I have OCD and so i want to keep tweaking everything. Also, for the trans tunnel, id suggest cutting out more than you think you need to. I cut out too little and now have to go cut more to make sure I don't have rubbing issues.
  9. ok, I understand they are different adjusters, but from what I've been told and adjusting camber, they really should be the vertical IE ones. that gives more adjustment options.
  10. correct. I took the s2000 drive shaft and a rear joint for the e30 diff and had a local drive shaft shop combine the two. I think total length was around 48. If I somehow get it on a lift this weekend, I'll snap a pic for reference.
  11. I have a CAtuned monster rear end in my 2002 with a s2000 AP1 swap. I like what they did, but there are a few things to note. 1- they mounted the Camber adjusters incorrectly. The photos they have on the website even show the wrong configuration. if you compare the correct way: https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/adjustable-rear-subframe-2002/ and then their way: https://catuned.com/2002-monster-rear-end-solution you can see they mounted them flat when they should have been vertical (interior adjusters). 2- the top of the side where the drive shaft connects to the diff rubs on the driveshaft. Im not sure if it is just my setup, but it was something I found out AFTER i already put the whole rear subframe in the back. my setup is a e30 rear diff, with cut driveshaft from the s2000.... so be aware of that and rotate the driveshaft to see if it contacts the top. screen shot attached with a red arrow to the area I had to cut and grind down.
  12. Subscribed to see the answer to this. I experience the same thing. my guess would be to adjust the location of the switch/ arm holder OR to just dremel out more space to be able to activate it.
  13. @AustrianVespaGuy nifty Idea. I figured out how to re-assemble. The trick is to compress the spring and use zip ties to keep it compressed. put the unit back in and once the backing plate and screw is secured, cut the zip tie. @steve k. whats the best way to mark my solution here ^^^ so people can future reference if needed?
  14. https://www.neueklassesupplyco.com/
  15. ah yes yes. the only small detail is I have to use my old spring style lighter. It is a long story!

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