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PatAllen

Kugelfischer
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About PatAllen

  • Birthday 10/06/1973

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Quebec, CANADA
  • Interests
    Electronic, mechanic

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  1. maximillian seems to have the stuff but is quite expensive at 120$ for piece of it...
  2. car is from france imported by original owner, i asked him gazillions of times, ie he never ever had the seats redone. anyway i need to find this very material.
  3. i am running out of solutions to fix the seat on a 68' 1600 convertible type of seat "without" headrest local shops dont want to stich on them beacause the material is too dry and has shrinked a lot. not worth working on it but if i can find the proper material to replace the whole section it could work. Esty ? note that this material is quite different from 02 seat, i think it is unique to the cabrio variant. thanks for looking at this.
  4. i am not the only one to be completely nuts about DS https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/950986-balancing-and-phasing-new-driveshaft-components.html Toyotas lexus uses various weigth bolts on the guibo to finish proper balancing ON CAR...and they do balance guibo as well...pffff found out also that most if not all DS i am playing with have common problem, the center bearing is not 90 deg perfect to the front section causing a tangent vibration. it is like 5-6 thou, once machined on a lathe near 0, that vibration is almost gone.... I found out too that on the 3 DS from E60 i am playng with, it appears that the front section IS balanced WITH the guibo....so as soon as you change the guibo, it becomes out of balance.....loool
  5. lool it happened to Rob Siegel too as he mention it in one of his books....
  6. it will be very hard to troubleshoot from a distance like that, considering that i cannot verify aything on your cars. seems you have more than one car to use the box....i need to know if the wiring on the car is 100% stock or has it been ever modified, cut or wathever ? 100% of my boxes are tested on a jig that simulates the car, so at this time i am completely clueless. While car is in neutral (or in PARK if its automatic) , try shorting thoses two pins (see picture) with a piece of wire or long nose pliers....it should engage the starter. if not then theres something wrong on the car. i see the pins on your plugs are heavy corroded...try shooting a bit of WD40 on them too.
  7. theres no trick. check if one of the wire has fallen out of the diagnostic port on the car side. i saw this happen, remember the car is 40+ years old should work as is.
  8. there is still one who didnt confirmed the reception...at this point i guess it made it... otherwise let me know asap
  9. its the ALT signal (charge light) of the alternator, or commonly called "D+". not used by the tune box. The middle pin on the tune box connector (yellow wire) is an option for 02 sensor, not used on your car hence the empty slot. use the box "as is " for its intended features. not all pins are used.
  10. i am posting the link for the user manual here hth Pat
  11. i have this tool too to pinpoint rapidly sources and severity of vibration, but at the levels i am at now it doesnt measure anything at all....0.00 or 0.01 wathever it means on its scale.
  12. i understand your point you didnt called me cheap i know. i am just not one of thoses shop nor i ever will. i do this all for my own purpose wathever it cost. its my learning course. fwiw i paid 1200$ my E36 DS in 2008, and it was bad. very.
  13. would you ride this ? same for a driveshaft. it just hides something wrong.
  14. the thing is, i am not cheap. i bought like 1000$ worth of used driveshafts just for the purpose of the test and learning. Shafts that i will probably never use, + the ones i had already from remain cars and collection. i want exactly to avoid staking up washers on balanced shaft, ie, i want to know how and why this is needed (no i know). altought one shaft can be well balanced in such ways it proved me that it stresses up the ujoints a lot and generate a lot of audible noise...i have many shafts with heavy weights and they do not perform well at all no matter what, especially at high speed. well, not to my standards...factory shafts, stock, and some supposedely rebuilded by "experts". Noted on the loops. i did only 1x 5000rpm run and to be honnest it was scarry. i keep my tests around 3000rpm where there is a harmonic and where it is the most audible/feelable into a car.
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