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About PatAllen

  • Birthday 10/06/1973

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  1. fwiw #2 i concluded several years ago, with my flow tests, that i wouldnt go bankrupt for a Tii manifold...id rather go with a nice proven tubular header, if i ever had to waste money and time to change my current manifold, just to get that 2-5 increase in HP. My other finding is that MAYBE the early Tii manifolds didnt had the bulges and bungs for the later smog equipements, and thus, may have flowed "more". So it is quite obvious that the early euro cars had such manifolds.
  2. fwiw, i ran flow bench test on several manifold i have here....including a true identified "tii' manifold ==>>the differences are very marginal, i cant believe one can "feel" a difference, there are way too many other variables that could affect the flow in this magnitude. surprisingly enough the one that flows the most is a "US smog type" with the injection tubes removed. hth
  3. fwiw stock rods can take serious amount of HP. what destroy rods is RPM, not HP.
  4. AWESOME !! more details on the mark on the steering box ?? thanks a lot
  5. i am wondering about the shell itself and the tolerances. i dont know how they did put the body pieces together, maybe they had a jig and spot welded them together, 45 years ago they did got robots like today. so i wouldnt be surprised to have an "uneven" shell.
  6. maybe i will give a try but i got the exact same pull issue with another set of wheel/tires.
  7. i do indeed got an alignment machine in my garage. its a new add-on, i got the machine for cheap, it was dead, bad floppys and whats not. made it evolve and changed the CRT to a tiny lcd screen and reduced the whole unit to a miserable semi-alike computer size machine, which hunter did later on with theirs more recent machines. fixed a buch of tiny details and its up and running. its a Hunter K111. it works well and is dead acurate. its the wireless model, very cool. tonight i remembered the mention about adding some weights in some cars i did aligment in the past, especialy the BMW (e36, e46, e60 that i did at least) so i simply sat in the car and bom ! front and rear camber became equal, only rear toe is a bit off for now. i tweaked a bit the front toe to compensate the rear and the cars runs like a fu*ing champ now. goes straigth ahead and the feeling of the steering is very nice now, much less effort when it is in the center position. maybe a bit sensisitve and free but i prefer it this way rather than pulling my hands off to the right all the time. i also found out that i have a very slight stick caliper on the right under some circumstances. barely noticeable. a new set of caliper are on their way. to be continued....
  8. all @#$$ bushings are totaty new all around. all of them. the center link is new (2009) when i restored the car. it always behaved this way. the track rods...you mean the round pieces that connect the suspension arm to the subframe up front ? there may be one not even with the lot, which would be easely corrected by insterting shims at their ends to compensate imho. i messed up with calipers as well, no change. the caster seems to be the real problem, per the machine says, which indeed could be caused by thoses rods. to be investigated soon....
  9. that o2 has everything new on it you can think of. new bushings, new springs, new chocks, new suspension arms in front, new brakes and whats not. worked out everything tonight as close as i could get, the car drives much much better, less effort on the steering as well. did put 0.05deg toe in on both side so it makes 0.10 total toe in. the main problem with this car is its return to center that never worked since day 1, no matter what i did. it always pulls to the right. i made few posts on that many years ago iirw i can make it steer straight ahead but when i leave the steering it goes like 1 oclock and then pulls right. i know the caster is the main problem, i will try to work that out another day. my latest adjustments tonight seriously improved the feeling of the car and it is much more precice and nice, but still not perfect imho. yes i know its 40+ year old, same as i do.
  10. found out that "set back" is the virtual position of the wheels in regards to the other, ie, its distance.
  11. fwiw, anonymous, i am not looking for what is adjustable or not. i am not a newb, i know only toe can be adjusted(normaly) but thanks to remind me and everyone about that. i am more hard headed than this and already worked out the camber and caster (for now). i am looking at the manufacturer specs for the car itself. you can actualy shims the subframe arms to move fore/aft the caster. it worked for me. you can slightly work out the camber as is, more if you slot the holes. it worked for me as well (see before/fter pics i am not a liar).
  12. still learning how to work the machine itself. i know the basics for what is toe, caster and camber. dont know what "set back" is.
  13. i would like to find the OEM specs for the 02....dont get me wrong, not the "prefered popular settings", but the manufacturer specs. car still pulls to the right a bit. rear camber is unworkable for now. unless i buy some excentric bushings.

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