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Andrew Havens

Solex
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About Andrew Havens

  • Birthday 01/26/1985

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  1. The time has come for me to refresh my brakes. While getting my alignment checked, I asked them to check my brakes. They said the brake pads were at 3%. I think that was the extent of their "free brake check". They said it would cost $300 to replace the brake pads, and that didn't include parts that might need replacing (like calipers). I'd like to tackle this one on my own (for fun, education, and to save a few bucks). But I'm totally new to this sort of thing. I did a search on this site and found that replacing brake pads on disc brakes looks pretty straight forward. But my bigger question is how to assess the quality/safety of the rest of the parts (rotors, calipers, brake lines, etc). Could you give a high-level overview of how you should go about restoring brakes on 40 year old car? What sorts of things should be done and what to look for when deciding what to keep? I've attached photos of my brakes in case that helps. I have a '74 with stock brakes (I assume) and '68 style 13" wheels.
  2. @peterschop That sounds very likely. This car was likely the previous owner's parts car. The previous owner mentioned that he thought it had a 5 speed at some point (but did not mention if he was the one who removed it). My next questions are: What should the tranny mount look like? Where can I buy one? What is the shift linkage supposed to look like? I'm guessing it's supposed to be more sturdy and possibly why the shaft is so floppy. Is there no lubricant in the clutch/flywheel? I am worried that it's dry and rusty in there due to the hole.
  3. Finally got a chance to jack up my car and look underneath. I think I found that my guibo is missing a bolt: Is the gap between the floor and the shift plate/linkage normal? Looks like the previous owner pop riveted a smaller plate over the top of the transmission tunnel...but why? Is this the correct mounting plate for my 4 speed? Is this cutout supposed to be here? What is this arm for? And why is there a loose circle clamp around it?
  4. I just jacked up my car for the first time and it's pretty rusty, so I just want to make sure I know how to properly jack my car. My e-brake is broken, so I started by having the car in first gear. I chocked the front wheels with pieces of 2x4. Then I placed the floor jack under the rear subframe. I later realized that my floor jack would not rise high enough to clear the floor jacks, so I added a piece of 4x4 between the floor jack and car. Once I had the jack high enough, I placed the jack stands under the rear subframe at the widest point that I could. Next, I moved onto the front. Since my frame rails are rotten, I placed the floor jack under the front subframe. And I placed the jack stands under the front frame rail where it connects to the front subframe: Is this where you would have placed these?
  5. Over the weekend, I got a chance to paint my wheels and put some new tires on. I was on a deadline to finish over the weekend and didn't really have a chance to track down everything that I wanted, so I made some compromises. I went to Home Depot and bought some Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and Clean Metal Primer, as well as Rustoleum Aluminum. After getting the tires removed at my local tire store, I began the rust removal. I started by trying to use an angle grinder with a wire wheel and found it to be too fast and difficult to control. So I moved onto a smaller wire wheel attached a drill. It worked fairly well at smoothing out some of the rusty patches. I used a drill I didn't care about and don't use anymore. I wasn't sure how well it would hold up after hours of sanding. I think it overheated after using it non-stop for a few hours. It took me a few hours to sand all five, but it didn't take off as much rust as I thought it would. Two of my wheels had been painted already, but some of the paint was peeling. I wish I would have spent more time using some heavy grit sandpaper to remove the flaking paint in the hard to reach places. I decided that this was a temporary quick fix and would invest in some sandblasting the next time I repaint my wheels. After I decided I was finished cleaning the metal, I wasn't sure if they were considered "clean metal", but I decided to use the clean metal primer anyway. The Rustoleum dries fast, so I was able to put multiple coats of primer and top coat with multiple coats of the Rustoleum Aluminum within an hour. I had to wait 24 hours to flip them over to prime and paint the other side. I thought that the Rustoleum Aluminum would be comparable to the Krylon Dull Aluminum, but the Rustoleum Aluminum turned out way shiner than I was expecting. The other thing I didn't notice is that on the can, it says that it's not intended for outdoor use. Oh well, they turned out pretty nice compared to what I started with. Then I took them to the tire store and bought some new tires. Here's the end result: A few things happened. The machines that they put my wheels in to install the tires scraped of some paint in some places. I didn't account for that. I'm guessing the only way to avoid that is to paint them with the tires on, but that would require a lot more masking. Maybe there is some type of paint that is tough enough to prevent nicks and scrapes. I could probably repaint but I'm not going to worry about it right now. The second thing that happened was that some sort of solvent they used to clean some marks off the tires splashed onto my wheels and reacted with my paint. I think they realized this after the first one and didn't use it on the rest because I only have one wheel that looks like this: I didn't expect that. Again, I'll probably just add another coat of paint, but I don't have time right now. They'll be covered by hub caps for the time being. Next project, hubcap restoration.
  6. I need one or two (for a spare) 1968-73 Steel Wheels. The ones that take hubcaps. I already have three, but found out my fourth wheel doesn't match. These wheels should be pretty common. I'm looking in the Portland, Oregon area because I'd like to buy it this week and so that I don't want to have to pay for shipping. Location: Portland, Oregon, USA
  7. Oops forgot to post these pictures. The plain ones are definitely 4.5". I noticed that the slotted wheel was wider, but the weird part is that the tire was smaller (175/80). The thing is, I want to keep the plain ones so I can put the hubcaps back on. Is there any problem with using the older wheels on a 1974?
  8. I have a 1974 BMW 2002. It's kind of a junker, but I'm working on restoring it. The wheels needed rust removal and a fresh coat of paint, so I took off my wheels, got the tires removed, and brought them home. However, now that I am looking at them all together, I realize that one of them is a completely different style. I noticed that it had a different sized tire on it. That should have been my first sign. I also tried putting the hubcap back on but couldn't get it to attach. That should have been my second sign! The fact that it was the only one with this fancy dust cap should have been my third sign. It also looks like two of the three matching wheels might be different based on how they are painted black. What's the difference between these wheels? Do I have two different styles or three? Also, anybody in the Portland area have a wheel for sale that matches the one that I'm missing?
  9. You guys are awesome! Very helpful information. Thank you! When you say "the emblem is still available"...where would I find it? Do I call up a local BMW dealership and say I'm looking for the emblem sticker that was on the 2002 hubcaps? What does ETK mean?
  10. I'm going for an original/vintage look and would like to restore my wheels and hubcaps so they look shiny and new (or better than new ). I came across this post which mentioned a few things specific to restoring the steel wheels. It sounds pretty straight forward: sand/blast, prime with Rustoleum "rusty metal" primer (or maybe this one after sanding?), then Krylon "dull aluminum" for a finish coat. I also came across this Eastwood Silver Argent paint which might be even better. However, restoring hubcaps is still a mystery to me. As far as I can tell, my hubcaps were never chromed. Or maybe they are just dull and faded. Maybe they are stainless steel. They are dented and will need to be smoothed out in order to look original. Then there's the BMW logo in the center... So how can I restore them on the cheap, but still look original? Any thoughts and tips related to this topic would be helpful, but reiterate, I'm going for an "original shiny hubcap" look.
  11. Very helpful video, thanks! Keep them coming. =]
  12. Very nice! I appreciate the video. I'm really looking forward to the next video since I also need to repair my frame rails and floor panels.
  13. Battery terminals are clean, and connections are secure. I listened a little more closely this time and it sounds like there is a single "click" sound when I turn the key. Again, I stepped on the gas pedal while the key was turned and it started, but it might still be a coincidence.
  14. Previously, my 1974 2002 had been starting fine (after a few steps on the gas pedal in the morning). Well, today, I turned the key and nothing happened (no clicks, no turning). Turned the key again. Nothing happened. Tried a third time and it started right up. Same thing happened in the afternoon as well, only I tried stepping on the gas while turning the key to see if that made a difference (I'm not sure if it did or not). It's weird that nothing happened, the first few times, as if my battery was dead. What could be causing this? I'm guessing that it's only going to get worse.


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