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Found 60 results

  1. Anyone able to describe (or draw on my photo) of where the fuel line comes from? I got a 76', it was all apart and I am just trying to put it all back together. I can't seem to find where it comes from the fuel tank. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  2. My 02 fuel level sender is dead, and im in real trouble finding a new one (at least at a reasonable price...) they are NLA everywhere... (tried bavauto, pelican parts, etc...) I´m wondering if its a good idea to install an aftermarket solution like this ive found on amazon... any thoughts?? Thank you!
  3. used fuel tank filler pipe $38 shipped retails for $77, see 2nd picture
  4. I am installing a Carter 504 electric fuel pump in my 02- not because I think it is a great idea, but I was laboring under the misconception that it would make my life easier when working on my dual sidedraft setup. I had been using Cannon manifolds, which positioned the front carb such that I had to remove the fuel pump whenever I wanted to remove the top cover of the carb (e.g., when checking float height). I decided to nuke the Cannon manifolds, primarily because they are designed in a way that prevents syncing the front to rear carbs. The rear manifold is canted up (I would guess to help it clear the brake booster) such that it is impossible to link the front and rear carbs. I tried to modify the linkage to make this work, but could not. Anyone with dual sidedrafts know how important it is to balance the carbs. IE came out with a single piece manifold and I bought one and am installing it. Now that I have installed the manifold (see pic), I find that there seems to be plenty of clearance to remove the top of the carb. Anyway, I am committed to install the electric pump. Here is my question. The docs that come with the pump say "DO NOT INSTALL IN THE TRUNK." Yet, in searching on the list, I see that many people have installed pumps in their trunks. I understand that the concern is that if there is a problem with the pump, a hose or there is car crash, etc. that would be bad thing. I am wondering if any of you or anyone you know has ever experience a problem because of a fuel pump installed in the trunk. Here
  5. I have some N.O.S. genuine fuel filter PN 13 32 0 680 150 still in original bag, used in the NK 1800Ti, TiSA, 2000TI, but looks very good in any BMW 2002 or 2002ti (only mechanical fuel pump) This filter is washable, for a lifetime use, made in Germany. I added some pics installed in my 2002ti, I made a bracket very simple. $99.99 shipped to the US Continental International buyers https://www.ebay.com/itm/292291335358
  6. Hey, was taking a look at my engine after a quick drive this morning and noticed a few drops coming off of the throttle area of my solex carb. It's dripping in two places. One right next to then idle adjustment screw and the other one is on the opposite side (see video below) any suggestions on what I can do to fix this? Do I need a new seal, gasket etc? Or do I need tighten something, or is this a larger issue? Thx IMG_5710.MOV
  7. Ok, so I have had a problem with the fuel pressure being too high in my car. Likely for a while. I put on a Holley regulator, but didn't work I changed out the Pierberg mechanical for a "Clackity Clackity" pump to see if there was a mechanical build up in the spring that would increase pressure, I changed out the Holley regulator for a Redline, no change. I put in the Jeep fuel filter, and it flowed too much for my crappy clackity clackity pump, so I had to reduce the return line by putting a hose clamp to it. So now it maintains about 3 PSI and drops to 0 once the car turns off. It still didn't fix the original problem, why/how does the pressure increase, from 3 lbs to 6-7, flooding my carb (a lot) after I turn off the car?. It takes maybe 5-15 min to build to 6 PSI and then after the bowl fills up it fills up my primary. I took off the check valve I had installed by the tank (not needed) and no difference. My gas tank vent appears to be fine. The little hose goes directly outside.
  8. Hi all, I have been doing some reading on the fuel system and I am still a little confused on the "best" configuration for the fuel delivery and fuel return. Since we can modify 2002s much more with products and emissions equipment now no longer required, I wanted to figure out what is a cleaner/ simpler setup... Current configuration: -74 2002 -M10 -32/36 Manual choke carb -stock fuel configuration WITH return line (photo attached of setup) -no smog equipment (all removed) -daily driver Questions: - can I plug the return line? - if yes, what are the benefits? what would be a drawback? - what does the small hose that leads back to the base of the carb do? Vacuum? - should I add in a fuel check valve? If yes, benefits/drawbacks? - anything else to consider changing?
  9. part # 13541256155 & replacement part # 13540435746
  10. eurotrash

    Fuel And The Deuce

    From the album: Eurotrash: First Album

    At the RGB HQ.

    © Jason Gipson

  11. Hey Guys, I've got a carb situation on my hands that is the, "I am lucky stuff didn't burst into flames" severity. I need some help as carbs is something I've very little experience with aside from small adjustments/tuning. My problems consist of: completely missing my secondary throttle rod. open butterfly poor engagement and slipping inside choke / throttle / butterfly and most importantly; 4. gas leakage from throttle body, lower throttle rod assembly throttle valve stud, and idle air valve (I THINK!). I would greatly appreciate suggested plans of action / possible parts availability / links to similar threads. I'd be stoked if ya'll had a few old donor bits lying around or possibly best / straight-forward replacements. I don't want to do any grinding or mods on the intake manifold and I'd love to stick with the original 32/32 carb (whether it be replaced entirely or rebuilt). its unfortunate I am missing parts putting me past a simple rebuild kit... but I don't even know if it will be worth the rebuild as I've never done it before and I've heard of to many horror stories of rebuilding and failing 4-5 times in a row. I know the whole thing is is super grimy. A clean up is fully intended. Let me know your thoughts! I would even appreciate a text or call if you've got the time. Located in Portland, Oregon. Grayson IMG_7641.MOV
  12. Hi, New to this forum but hope I can ask the experts some questions. I recently purchased Turbo number 896 but the fun was cut short by an engine cutout at speed, followed by a no-start. After sitting on the roadside for :15 min, I tried the car again and it fired up. This has happened three times recently; each time with the same pattern. After reading the Technical Supplement and this board's FAQ on TII fuel delivery, I am thinking that's the culprit. However I wanted to ask the experts. Questions: 1)Where is the oil top-off access for the KF piston? Or is it lubricated by the motor? 2) Could this seize and stop fuel? 3) Any recomendations for someone to rebuild the KF? 4) Am I asking the wrong questions? Thank you
  13. between these two fuel pumps? are they interchange on the same engine? functionality differences? my Original one is the LEFT, and the RIGHT is one I acquired recently. engine is 1.6 with 118 head.
  14. 1.6L with weber 32/36 manual choke and universal lo pressure fuel pump. when cold, my car wont idle on its own. it will just keep cranking until i push my pedal to the floor then it will fire up and i usually will have to warm it up a little before it will idle on its own. (when the engine is cold i pull the choke all the way and nothing changes!)
  15. First - I tried searching and didn't find anything related - If this has been covered please teach me how to search. Problem - I just replaced my fuel filter and now I'm not seeing any fuel come thru the filter. Before replacement fuel flowed thru the filter well - no surging, etc. Now I can't get a drop to come thru. My setup - My car is a 73 auto, Weber downdraft carb, running an electric fuel pump (from IE) in the trunk. The setup was : Tank - Filter - Pump - Carb. After asking a few questions I had gotten the advice to put the filter after the pump since the electric pump doesn't suck as well as it pushes and with the filter after the pump it can pull fuel easier. After making the switch i saw no change. I had this same issue when I installed the pump a few thousand miles ago, and I honestly can't remember what I did to fix it. Anyone have any ideas on what I can do to fix this? Pictures of the setup: Filter before pump; Filter after pump:
  16. I did a bit of searching on the forum but couldnt find a similar issue. My fuel gauge was working when I re-installed the cluster a few days ago. However, now the gauge engages, clicks about halfway up and then disengages. I can hear the clicking sound as if its trying to work and hold steady but then it falls back down and repeats. Any thoughts / solutions? Thx Casey
  17. I'm nearly finished with my sidedraft install but I'm confused about the fuel lines. I've been following the installation article and it looks like the fuel line from the firewall goes to the fuel pump, then fuel pump to filter to carb with "Tee fitting." My question is what do I do with the other hose that comes from under the battery area (seen in the upper right of the 1st pic below)? It was connected on the left of the small valve shown in the 2nd pic below.
  18. Anyone have a spare in-tank fuel filter they want to sell? Found one online for $18 which seemed steep.
  19. Quick question about the Weber 32/36 fuel inlet (or inlets). Looking at the attached photo I found on Google, you'll notice one of the fuel inlets is plugged. My car doesn't have this plug - it's just open to the atmosphere. Would this negatively affect the performance of the carb, or should I leave it as is?
  20. Unfortunately for my car's paint, the fuel filler cap was leaking a bit. I noticed some gas running down the side of my car, and when I opened the cap to check it out, fuel literally gushed out. I'm talking a gallon, minimum. As if there was pressure built up inside the gas tank. Does anything look wrong in the venting? I haven't changed anything in the year or two that I've owned the car, so I'm wondering why it happened now. The vent hose in the filler neck goes to the expansion bottle. Nothing is cracked or leaking as far as I can see. Whoever repainted the car a few years back obviously didn't prep the area under the filler cap well, hence the awful paint peeling problem I'm dealing with now. Sigh.
  21. [Sold for asking price] turbo folks: fyi https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/200064-turbo-kugelfischer/
  22. [Sold for asking price] $2050 shipped Bosch part # VIPL 133-14-7 PM if interested. For reference; the only comparable listing I could find: http://m.ebay.com/itm/300853203168 2002 Turbo Discussion thread: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/200065-high-performance-turbo-kugelfischer-bosch-pump/
  23. Did a quick search and did not find anything (no dead kittens, I hope) My old weber 32/36 had a shut off solenoid built into it, that shut off the fuel when the car was turned off. The now installed 40DFAS does not, and I suspect that the ambient fuel pressure when the car is turned off is pushing fuel through the carb, puddling fuel in the intake manifold. If the car only sits for a few minutes, it fires right up, after being driven, but any longer and I usually end up hold the accelerator pedal to the floor to start it. And I have see the puddles down in the intake manifold. So,, What recommendations does anyone have on a fuel shut off valve. Likely installed between the fuel pump (stock, mechanical one, Pierburg) and the carb ? I might see if I can retro fit the 32/36 solenoid onto the 40 DFAS but if not, will go for a shut off valve.
  24. Hey friendlies. As we all know, the 2002 petrol fill-up situation is quite a bother and something I was personally tired of dealing with. My ruubber neck started cracking / tearing resulting in me having to go inside my trunk, unscrew it, fill up, and put it back on every time.. This afternoon I had some hours and decided to tackle the project. PARTS: The gas tank neck diameter is exactly 2.1" od. I ordered a non-vented, 2" gas cap with a neck at 3" tall from Coyote Supplies. Knowing there will be a rubber coupling acting as a spacer I wasn't too worried about the short height, figured cutting or buying more rubber would be easier than steel. A local plumbing store (without a storefront) threw me a rubber spacer from their scrap pile after explaining to them what I was doing. No storefront, no price 2 hose clamps and I'm ready for the install. INSTALL: Attach one hose clamp around the neck of the gas tank to act as a guide when cutting. Also, have a shopvac positioned to collect and prevent all the metal dust from falling into your tank. I got a non-vented cap because I wanted to drill and route my own vent to prevent the trunk smelling like gas. The original vent hose will do just fine. A 7/32 drill bit keeps it nice and snug. Inside the gas cap neck there was a ridge to rest the bit on so I could get a nice downward angle for the vent hose. Next simply slip the rubber coupling over the gas tank neck, clamp it down. Then the gas cap neck, clamp it down, and re-route the vent hose. Then reinstall the origional gas cap. A simple 2 hour fix for one big reoccurring problem My one concern would be if the fuel cause corrosion on the rubber. I might swap out the rubber coupling for a marine hose line. Thanks! One of the most functional mods i've done in a while. Best, Jeremy
  25. I've been kicking around the idea of braided stainless lines for possible replacements for the injector lines. I'm not after concourse correctness, but function/reliability. There are several places close to my work that make high pressure lines. I think I found line pressure is ~5000 psi (I'll dig through the manual later), but what I don't know and haven't been able to find: What type of connector is used on the lines? (same on both ends?) I haven't pulled one yet, as I would rather have something in my hands before starting to change them out. If anyone could chime in with the connector type, or suggest a get part(s) xxxx from manufacture yyyy for nickels on the dollar of custom, that would be great. thanks Allan

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