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stone02

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  1. stone02
    just so you know, the output flange did not move that far up and hit the underside of the tail housing. the opposing nuts for the driveshaft side of the guibo were the offending part which hit the tail housing. also, the tail housing can hold as many as five (5) selector seals in the opening that is now flattened. this was the best way to stop the leak years ago, it was to just bang two or three seals into the tail housing and as they went farther in they did a better job of sealing the shaft. stone
  2. stone02
    Hey, many years ago, there was a business named precision performance. the guy who ran it, cant remember his name now, was a wizard. he spoke with me in depth about the cams and there best operating situation for each. the only one that i clearly remember was that a specific cam made the stock Tii run much better. i at the time had the opportunity to try his recommendation. he was absolutely correct. the cam he spoke of was for 1976 cars, most likely destine for CA at the time. these cams appeared to be exactly the same unless you took the time to do all the measurements. they were spec cams but were much more accurate/ precise than other 49 state parts. the only way to identify these cams is to look at the front face of the cam inside the sprocket circle where a number "5" is stamped on the face. over the years i have searched and installed several of these in tii motor rebuilds and the motors are always more powerful. Pete McHenry was his name. just remembered. just a little old knowledge that should be passed on to the younger enthusiasts. stone
  3. stone02
    chris here from stone racing. don"t believe the internet. still working on 02's. 215fivetwozerosix718. moving my warehouse in the next few weeks. call me if you would like to discuss your car or any needs i can help with. stone
  4. stone02
    Hi, how much did this cost? stone
  5. stone02
    since you are using the newer AC type of bracket then you can use the bolts. the studs can be hard to get out because they go thru the pump,timing cover,into the block. clear the holes carefully before you use the bolts. stone
  6. stone02
    HI, Just to add my thoughts. Mike NC is right about each point. i have only done two headliners and i kept my hours logged. it took 32 hours to move a good headliner from one car to another, install time only, with sunroof. the none sunroof car was a new panel and it took 19 hours. i watched that video from 32minutes until they stopped showing the install. that was scary. i work from back to front with both cars and for the sunroof car i finish the hole before i get to the front windshield frame. i actually use wood clothes pins and binder clips with blue masking tape on the inside of each to protect from marks and damage. i also use the tape on the headliner as a guide line when the clips come off for gluing. all the correct edge protection for the sunroof must be in place to protect the white liner. finally i have never seen anyone try to install the long rails and the center panel together, that looks like a nightmare. get the liner in and set for two days then glue, then leave it for two days, then install the inner roof panel then finally the body panel. it can be done like Mike says clean hands and time. just like the the nuns used to say to me; Be patient or become one!! stone
  7. stone02
    so, the guy putting the lock strip is me. you can put it in any time of year. i have put them in during the dead cold of winter. just the opposite in this case, the sun was blazing down and the body of the car was hot enough to cook an egg. soak the strip in hot water before you put it in. then while you push that particular tool, it was the first time i had every used the tool in the video. smooth action and having the strip rolled in the correct orientation is most important. also, more than 100 front and rear glass make it easier. just go slow and steady. stone
  8. stone02
    Hi, i am interested in these. please message me so that we can arrange the details. thanks, stone Happy New Year too.
  9. stone02
    Hey, a quick question. does the foot pedal assembly have it's return spring in the bottom of the pedal box? this may be just enough tension to keep the pedal where it should be. i can not see the spring below the pedal at the fulcrum point. let us know. stone
  10. stone02
    Korman was selling a few of these at Vintage a few years ago.i bought more than one and also received one from BMW NA. i should go find them and sell them off. stone ps- i have no plans to find them or sell
  11. stone02
    if you convert the oil filter to a spin on type. it is possible to use the spin on filter for a 1987 thru 1991 325i in it's place. i do this on my cars and for others who ask for it. the only concern is the short distance from the oil filter to the steering box. if you run with the battery in the trunk then this change is a good choice. stone
  12. stone02
    after many years of this hated job i have come up with a easy way to remove the flexable hose from the fixed line. i use an 11mm line wrench on the body side and i use a 14mm crow's foot line wrench to twist the hose loose from the body line. i also cut the old hose in the middle so that the flex line side can rotate easily. once the flex line is off then the body side can be freed so that replacement is easier.be extremely careful to not break the body line because it cascades into more repair problems than i want to describe. good luck stone
  13. stone02
    Hi, not sure if you want to travel to philadelphia but if so i have engines and other parts. feel free to call me for help or guidance. 35 years working on 2002's. at least twenty parts cars to pick from. motor on the floor from a running car, $250. thanks stone
  14. stone02
    late model cars have radiator side stays with provision for a shroud. but, i think that the smaller fan is used with them. stone
  15. stone02
    Hi, i would like to join in. i have been looking for the getrag and motor interface CAD also. i too want to retain the drive line in full. could you contact me about your CAD work i would like to not start from scratch if possible. thanks stone
  16. stone02
    the fan in the picture is the smaller fan. the 400 is the tropical fan. when the fans get old they curl. get a dealer new one. set it on the counter at the parts department and do not accept it if the center is supported by the blades when the deeper cup side is up. i do not have a picture of the 400. stone
  17. stone02
    first, get the bigger radiator cooling fan. the bigger one seems to be more rigid and will not flex forward as much. now, when a core is installed, the sides must be re-soldered to the end tanks and core, once they are assembled and tested. it is at this time that the sides must be pushed far enough rearward on the radiator so that the entire core is pushed as far forward (away from the fan) as possible. this has been a problem for me a few times since i have been installing curt's radiators for 15 years. i still have two cores hidden away for me to use on my cars. if it is done right, the core is hard against the nose panel. i have even clearanced a few nose panels to get extra room. stone
  18. stone02
    if the car is an automatic, then what you have there is correct because you need the secondary axial shaft for the downshift function. is there a cable attached to the rod that goes from the fire wall to the carb? that would be an even better indication that the car is automatic equipped. more pictures from farther back and clearer. stone
  19. stone02
    if as you describe, the car is NOT moving, then the drive shaft should not be making noise. if the car is running and sitting still, and now you press the clutch pedal down to the floor and wait 10 seconds or put it in gear and still not moving then i would suspect the noise is coming from the internal gears of the transmission. the gears turn when the clutch is released and it is in neutral. you need to wait several seconds for the natural drag on the components to stop the gears from continuing to turn or put it in gear and all the gears except for the input shaft should stop rolling. if the roar goes away then it is the trans. put in redline MTL to help with the sound reduction.
  20. stone02
    Al, i would like to come see it when i pick up the 524td. maybe we can make a deal for both. let me know and see if you can get the title too. stone
  21. stone02
    it is the horn relay. the replacement is usually not round or as nice as the vintage one you have. it can be opened and reattached to the bracket. stone
  22. stone02
    i do not know a price at this time. wait and see if a few people answer, like markmac. but, i do have a customer who is actively looking for this set up for his race car that just won its class at Watkins Glen last weekend. please contact me if you would like to be in contact with him. thanks stone
  23. stone02
    both hoses are okay to use. don't overthink this stuff and then outsmart yourself. those hoses are fine. stone
  24. stone02
    simple answer, yes. it is removable. measure from the base tube below the hose and clamps, to a marked point on the upper tube. then reset in the same place. if this is way off then the oil level could be affected. stone
  25. stone02
    i can not seem to find the info in the search. who offers the door card repair panel in the wood type. thanks stone
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