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73tiiDavidPA

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About 73tiiDavidPA

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  1. I was skeptical, but got lucky at the first auto parts store I visited, O'Reilly Auto Parts. They has the proper NGK BP5ES with the "removable nut" on the terminal. BP5ES is NGK part 7832 for the removable nut type. NGK 2140 is the BP5ES with the fixed nut. Left to right is BP5ES with nut, BP5ES with nut removed, the old BP7ES which are being replaced, and the BP5ES wtih the fixed nut
  2. yep, they don't screw off... (see icon on package) never looked at the package until now... Looks like a search now for the proper plugs locally, or new wires...
  3. There seem to be many of them on the market / is there a recommended one or are they all pretty much the same? I'm also think I should get a spark plug gap tool. I'm not talking the gauge, an actual tool https://www.amazon.com/STM-Spark-Plug-Gapper-Tool/dp/B075NRR233/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=spark+plug+gap+tool&pd_rd_i=B075NRR233&pd_rd_r=84b8c9b4-7b03-4de0-9606-fe4c61d3e6f6&pd_rd_w=5wVef&pd_rd_wg=mn1QC&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=RSPTA07XVHQK2G2HME25&qid=1558015152&s=automotive
  4. Ok, got it. I was thinking that, but was afraid to sound dumb. When I was out in the garage, I was too afraid to damage the plug, so I thought I'd refer to the wisdom and experience of the board. And of course the board comes through! Thanks!
  5. So bollocks. I was prepping the 73tii for the 600 mile round-trip to The Vintage and hit a snag. With work and my travel schedule, I've been maintenance limited this spring and kept things to a minimum : Oil, filter, and new plugs. The oil and filter change went fine (though I always have trouble removing the filter). I was very proud that I thought in advance to order shiny new plugs (NGK BP5ES). I even bought a set of BP6ES to try out and as a back up set. From what I've read on here, the BP5ES are the way to go. Main reason for the new plugs was that last year, when the warm up regulator gave up the ghost I was running rich... like 9 mpg rich, and while I clean up the plugs, I figured they could use replacing. Time was not on my side when ordering, so two-day Amazon came to my rescue (well sort of...). Well crap, little did I know there are two (or more, I don't know) sizes for the ignition plug wire ends. Seems that my ignition wires are for a skinny, almost threaded end spark plug. The plugs I bought have totally different - larger ends. Perhaps there is something that I'm missing? I don't think so, and figure my options are : 1. Put the old plugs back in (not my first choice) 2. Buy new ignition wires. Due to timing this would have to be done at an Advanced Auto or Napa store. I need to replace them tomorrow, and be on the road Friday morning. I'm not sure of the quality / what I should be looking for in ignition wires here - recommendations? Will all they sell in these type of stores just be crap (perhaps Napa is not crap)? 3. Pull the ignition wire set from the '74tii project car. These are of unknown (figure at least 10 years) vintage. Stealing from one car to make another run though does have the Rob Siegel appeal though. I realize I should have take a photo of the cap, but forgot. If you have any suggestions regards to options and replacing it the best option, then suggestions on ignition wires that would be great. I would call one of the several excellent suppliers from this board, but once again, I really need them the same day. The old and the new the skinny only plug ends The wire (that do fit the plugs on the '74 project car Cheers.
  6. Hey David,

     

    I hope you get this message.  I saw your post from 2017 about the motor number in your car.  I have the vehicle with that VIN number.  I’d love to tell you the history.  Respond if you got this. If it’s easier here is my contact info.  Email:[email protected] or phone number 313-269-6090.  

  7. Would you have a '74 driver's seat in blue?

  8. Took the '74 garage find tii out for an extended spin today. Handled nice, ran smooth, didn't overheat, brakes are ok.... and then I'm thinking I should just drive the '74 to The Vintage in NC next weekend. I could replace the rear brake cylinders before I go and change the coolant and top the fluids..... what could go wrong (lol - lots). So are I have replaced : Battery All soft fuel lines and filter / screens Front Calipers Tires Oil, Filter On the non-mechanical side I've fixed the front bumper and gotten her cleaned up. The rear brakes are inoperable, and I've got the cylinders on order. I also order the air box intake boot so I can mount the original airbox which will at least then provide something to plug all the loose hoses to (you can hear vacuum leaks in the engine bay). And though it ran cool this afternoon (which was warm down here in SC), I'd replace the coolant and check all the other fluids. It's about 250 miles, 4 hours to get to The Vintage. I'm thinking I could tape a "silent auction" page to the car and see what happens... On the other hand, almost everyone there has a vintage BMW, so while the crowd are enthusiast, they might not be the correct market (I certainly have mixed thought on this). Also, most folks are not walking around with that kind of cash, so the sale most likely could not be completed (fantasies of having my son drive the '73tii - like last year - and I drive the '74tii and we only come home with one tii) Anyway I'd love to hear peoples thought on this. Here's the car : 1974 BMW 2002tii - Polaris / Blue, sunroof, 5 speed, Behr A/C, 14" basketweaves, racaro type driver's seat, mileage shows @155,000. Last owner, older gentleman had health issues and daughter sold me the car. Original SC tii, sold in Greenville, SC at a Lincoln dealership (owner's manual service records). No current or illuminating paperwork on maintenance. Snorkel nose, not the original engine block, definitely a tii though - VIN background from DE shows Polaris tii built 1974 July 2, has clock (not working) notch in firewall, boxed trailer arms, and all the tii injection. Aftermarket steering wheel, some poly bushings underneath. There are bubbles in the paint on the leading edges of the doors and lower wing in front of the doors. Car has been repainted at some point, done nicely. Previous owner looked to have done some touch up painting in the trunk. One or two rust holes in the floor pans - one in the foot well behind the passenger, one on the frame rail. All have solid metal in the area and are fixable with simple welding. I bought the car not running with the thought of getting it roadworthy and moving it along to another owner. It certainly runs pretty well - well enough that I'm thinking the 500+ mile roundtrip to NC is feasible. I'm thinking I could move it along now... or take the next steps in correcting the paint bubbles / patching the holes, and asking more a premium price. Perhaps I'm way off, but I'm thinking the current market value is between $ 10 - $15k (yes you can certainly put your two cents in here on this idea) So.... attempt The Vintage ? Do a silent auction ? What should a reserve price be ? (I can post more photos if needed - heading out to the garage to take some now)
  9. Thanks, I was able to move both adjustment bolts on both side. New rear wheel brake cylinders will be here in a couple of days.
  10. Thanks for the words, they most likely all will be needed.
  11. thanks for the "moving back to front" suggestion. Yes, I've fully removed the bleeder and still no flow, so its gotta be something in the lines...(?)
  12. Healey, Thanks. Yes, adjusting the handbrake is on the punch list for this weekend. From what I've read on here, its pretty bone simple (I also have the Haynes and factory manuals). Still wondering about the non-bleeding though... I'm assuming you have a BN(J)7/8 from your ID, nice cars (I worked at an antique British sales and restoration place in College). Nice cars, though I like the simplicity and lay flat windscreen.
  13. Hello All, Working on the garage find '74tii again. Last weekend I got the front calipers replaced with Cardone rebuilts and successfully bleed the brakes (at least the fronts) and road tested. Before replacing the front calipers, I attempted to bleed the system - the front barely bleed and the rears not at all. After replacing the calipers the fronts bleed fine and the rears still didn't bleed at all. I used a Motive pressure bleeder, and pushed at least a quart of fluid through for good measure. On the road test the pedal was a little soft, or just different from my '73tii, but I certainly was able to stop and also lock the brakes (at least the fronts) on demand. So now I'm working the rears. It appears, if my knowledge about brakes is correct, that the lines have been replaced in the past with stainless braided lines (see photo). I'm wondering what the next steps are. Perhaps an important note, the hubs do NOT turn freely, it takes quite and effort to spin either side, sort of like the brakes are partially on. One question is - what is the lower line in the photos - the one that attaches to be bottom of the brakes? Could that be my culprit? Any advice of course if welcome, and encouraged. Thanks, David So, the rears
  14. Never seen this before, at a local gas station that is. I've seen race fuel at the track, right out of the pump, but also no 118 octane. I do live near a drag strip (Darlington, SC) is about 10 miles away. I think it really just more of a promo / marketing / brand thing for Sunoco. Wonder how it would run in the tii.... ? Not even sure what the octane was back in '72 - '74 (the 118 octance can of 5 gallons was like $78)
  15. You're # 1 in hot new releases in Classic Cars on Amazon.... Perhaps if we all order we can push you to the NYT....


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