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stone02

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  1. Looking for 1974 2002 front shocks and a York air compressor.  There was a vendor at the deutsche classic in Oley PA that had both front and rear pairs of shocks as new old stock in box. Didn’t need them but as luck would have it I broke a shock on the way home from the show. Don’t have the guys name but he did say he know Chris (aka stone02). Chris if u see this can you reachout to me so we can chat?  Thanks in advance

  2. stone02

    body dolly

    hey, i ask about the size back a while and let it slip. if the other guy does not take it at $100, call me and i will come pick it up ASAP. give him a chance first. chris 215 520 6718
  3. if you want water free gas then you need to put aviation fuel in the tank. it has no water because it goes into an environment where the temp is well below freezing. even in the smallest amounts it would crystallize and clog carb jets. we use it in the race car and buy it from small airports that are required to drain off fuel from their storage tanks for safety.
  4. so, put jack stands under the car to hold up the back end on both sides of the car. also put wheel chocks on both front wheels both front and back. now with the car up in the back, release the hand brake and put it in neutral. if the drums is not loose then bang it back onto the hub. do not worry about the alignment yet. get the center hub to turn by rotating the opposite wheel a little at a time until the holes are all lined up. put a wheel stud onto the threads or reinstall the tire and tighten. the drums can take a good hit but if hit enough and with enough trying you can break the drum. it is very hard to do so.
  5. if you are actually committed to changing the rear soft lines then cut the hose so that it can spin and hold the body side so it does not twist. use an 14mm crows foot line wrench, the kind that can be attached to a long extension 3/8". then it will come off. DO NOT LET THE BODY SIDE LINE TWIST. a little heat can help the connection break loose. stone
  6. it takes about 21-25 hours per side to properly replace the entire shock tower, not just a patch repair. i have done many and the car is always solid after it is done and most people can not even tell that it was done. it will not lower the value of the car. it most likely will increase the value because the work is not necessary for the next owner. stone
  7. cant find it on ebay. could you post the listing please or did it sell? stone
  8. for this you will need a spray bottle with just water. while the car is running and hot, spray the coil at the end where the wires are. just lightly first then more to see if it stumbles stalls. if you do this in the evening or after dark you may even see where the sparks might be occurring. usually the high-voltage jumps to the black single wire and to ground. if this happens then start by cleaning around the coil top and or replacing some of the connections or the cap to coil wire. do this when the motor is good and hot so that it can dry out on its own if you do not have all the parts to fix it then. stone
  9. Hi, so just a few days ago i re-registered 2782913, after a 33 year slumber. it was taken apart in 1985- 1986 and never reassembled until i got it about 4 years ago. shake down time soon to come. good luck with the sale. post the tii pictures so we all can see. stone
  10. how wide is the bolt thru that goes on the engine side? is it possibly from a tii? thanks stone
  11. HI, is there a hole between the four bolt holes in the block? if there is then you need the air pump bracket or the cover with the dipstick that goes there. ask for it in the parts wanted. it is not a rare piece. i probably have one but would not know where to look for it as i recently sold my storage space. stone
  12. does anybody have any knowledge of this car? or is someone in milwaukee to see it? a customer of mine is diving in to the deep end and way to quickly it escalated to this. https://usclassifieds4all.com/details.php?id=10986 thanks, stone
  13. so i stand corrected. thank you. i put the fork on and then give it a whack with my fist when i compress the slave cylinder. maybe the spring slips over the ball pivot and then behind the shoulder. i will have to go look at a trans to see if that happens. the rubber washer just retains grease for the pivot to lube the fork. i don't know it all and i do learn new stuff all the time thanks for the picture and the education. stone
  14. number one is correct. compress the bearing into the bell housing and then wire tie the slave cylinder in the compressed position. this will keep both parts steady. then put the trans in. this way has been working for me for the last 30 years. stone
  15. HI, do they come with the correct lug nuts and washers? it looks like the lugs nuts should be the kind with the long shoulder that protects the wheel stud and a washer to go under the lugnut. thanks stone


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